dhsettim Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 The LEE Catenoid, constructed as an exponential instead of hyperbolic-- by John Warren----I like the sound of this--can't wait to hear more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j-malotky Posted November 8, 2002 Share Posted November 8, 2002 Russ The last member who posted home made Khorns was BigDnfay. They looked awesome. Did a first rate job. Send him an email with your questions. JM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InventiveAudio.com Posted November 10, 2002 Share Posted November 10, 2002 Why take a pair of highly regarded speakers and swap the drivers into a home built thingy that is neat worthless? OK you will tell me you want horn loaded bass, yada, yada, yada. I own Heresys, K-Horns and Cornwalls and have the K-Horns in perfect corners. The horn loaded bass is nice but I really believe that my Cornwalls go deepere and sound as tight. I don't thik you'll gain much unless you just want a woodworking project. You sould strongly consider re-finishing the Klipsch speakers you're getting and then putting your saved dollars and energy into a DYI subwoofer. I run a sub with all my speakers and it makes a huge difference in sound quality. Hust a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Warren Posted November 11, 2002 Share Posted November 11, 2002 I've built a few of them but I'm a glutton for punishment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nategr8d8 Posted December 1, 2002 Share Posted December 1, 2002 Hi John! I noticed your post and the awesome job that you did on your speaker cabinets. I picked up what look to be the speakerlab k plans and are planning to build my own Khorns. There are quite a few modifications on yours more closely tying them to the Khorn design. I already have the k-77-M's and the K-55-V's and am planning to build the ALKeng crossovers with plans they have on the site. I have several questions although while being presumptious am hoping that you may have some answers or can possibly vector me to the appropriate source. 1. I was planning to use Finnish birch plywood (voidless) but cannot find boards with dimensions over 24" X 30". Do you know of a source or have you had great success with any other materials? 2. Is there anyone who builds a comparable substitute for the K-400 horn diaphram or should I just get it direct form Klipsch. 3. Do you know where I can obtain a better set of plans describing the construction of a Khorn? The ones I have now are close but not quite right on. 4. Do you know what the proper methodology for attachment of the woofer access door? Thanks, Nathan McCracken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Warren Posted December 1, 2002 Share Posted December 1, 2002 ---------------- On 12/1/2002 9:09:47 PM nategr8d8 wrote: Hi John! I noticed your post and the awesome job that you did on your speaker cabinets. >>thanks I picked up what look to be the speakerlab k plans and are planning to build my own Khorns. There are quite a few modifications on yours more closely tying them to the Khorn design. >>The plans I used were given to my mentor by Klipsch himself back in the late 50s. I have since "inherented" them. I already have the k-77-M's and the K-55-V's and am planning to build the ALKeng crossovers with plans they have on the site. I have several questions although while being presumptious am hoping that you may have some answers or can possibly vector me to the appropriate source. 1. I was planning to use Finnish birch plywood (voidless) but cannot find boards with dimensions over 24" X 30". Do you know of a source or have you had great success with any other materials? >>To do this right birch veneer core plywood is best. The *good* stuff usually requires a vist to a lumberyard (not a Home Depot or Lowes). Call a cabinetmaker in your area and ask he/she were you can get premium quality plywood. Also, use 3/4" on the the front panel, the two V-panels that make up the woofer chamber and the woofer access panel. 2. Is there anyone who builds a comparable substitute for the K-400 horn diaphram or should I just get it direct form Klipsch. >>There are many alternatives here. Too many to describe. 3. Do you know where I can obtain a better set of plans describing the construction of a Khorn? The ones I have now are close but not quite right on. >> EV published a number of DIYer books describing how to build the Patrician IV, Georgian and the Cardinal. Each is a varaint of the Klipschorn and each describes an assy sequence. That would be a good place to start. If you have a good tech library in your area look for the 1955 Oct Audio. It shows the Patrician IV assy sequence. 4. Do you know what the proper methodology for attachment of the woofer access door? >>I use screws (lots) and 1/16 in. thk. piano damper felt cut 1/2" wide as a gasket material. I've got this "thing" for natural materials. The older horns used Chinch P/N 2-141 Terminal blocks as feed-thrus. You can get them from Newark Electronic Supply. For glue I use hide glue (animal glue) because it sets up very slowly, something necessary for this project. Thanks, Nathan McCracken ---------------- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm Posted December 1, 2002 Share Posted December 1, 2002 Sounds like fun! Appleply is a good choice for main cabinet construction. It is pretty much the American equivalent of Baltic Birch. All plies are hardwood, alder IIRC. No apple in Appleply. And there are minimal voids. The only problem is that it is generally harder to come by than Baltic Birch, and more expensive. Not sure which is actually denser, Baltic Birch or Appleply. In any case, both are much denser than the typical home improvement store stuff. MDF is a better choice for many inner parts which are not subject to stress. It is even less prone to resonances. All three materials make excellent substrates for the veneer of your choice. I would be prone to go with the Klipsch plans rather than the Speakerlab plans if for no other reason than they are the real thing. www.partsexpress.com has had generic damping material that appears identical to Dynamat for about half the price. Same material, same adhesive, same thickness, same sheet sizes, etc. I have used both. The only difference I can see is one has the Dynamat logo all over it, and the other doesn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nategr8d8 Posted December 2, 2002 Share Posted December 2, 2002 Thanks John! I have pulled quite a bit of information off the web including the original patent documents from the USPTO site. I will attempt to access the other documents which should be easily available living in the Chicago area. Thanks for the input on using hide glue. I have seen so many articles referring to construction with yellow glue and RTV sealant which I personally disagree with. I know that no RTV is needed for your cabinets after viewing the impeccable mitre joints and bracing. But in departing from the norm I think that for this project I will use one of the new poly glues. I have been using it in the restoration of the 100 year old house I am in and find it to be pretty impressive. It is sandable, stainable and since it will be inside the cabinet UV deterioration will not be an issue. It is a relief to know that I do not need to be specific on the horn diaphrams. After partaking in the bidding on Ebay and calling Klipsch tomorrow for pricing on the K-400's and the K-33-E's I may find out that aftermarket is the way to go. Well wish me luck. I plan on having these done prior to Christmas (need some joyful noise in the house!). Thanks again and best regards, Nathan McCracken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted December 2, 2002 Share Posted December 2, 2002 Paxton covers the midwest. They also have once a week pool truck service for a nominal charge. Many small cabinet shops use them. http://www.paxton-woodsource.com/Locations/index.cfm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Warren Posted December 2, 2002 Share Posted December 2, 2002 Nathan- Malcolm suggests the use of MDF for the inner panels which is a good idea. The material is denser than the best plywood and glues up well. I don't use it becasue the dust is more than I can take, it makes me gag and it settles everywhere. If you use 60-tooth carbide (recommended) you will not be able to see the hand in front of your face after two or three long cuts. Every step of construction is a challenge, the boards must be cut with real precision. Dry fit each assy repeatedly until all planes are "in". The Klipschorn is a remarkable construction project, you will get "caught" if you don't consider every detail of each joint. jw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Man Posted December 2, 2002 Share Posted December 2, 2002 I will sell you a pair of K-400 or K-401 horns (your choice) for half the price that klipsch will. You can email me if your interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornwaller Posted December 22, 2002 Share Posted December 22, 2002 Hello all, Regarding the use of plywood...if we had the resources of the folks in Hope, we could rest assured that the ply we bought would be free of voids. My advice is to buy 'marine-grade' plywood; any voids in this stuff would be very small and therefore insignificant. Cornwaller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klewless Posted December 22, 2002 Share Posted December 22, 2002 Plywood faults: One used to be able to purchase void free plywood and I have heard of people using marine grade plywood. It is not as dense as the MDF but is more waterproof and is stronger (for it's weight) than MDF. I have used both and plan to use plywood in the future. To me good bracing should be used to contain panel resonances from lighter weight wood. Plywood is probably more expensive. My thought! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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