Forte4Life Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 I'm the original owner of these Forte's. Woofer is not working on one side. I removed the woofer and attached another speaker to the woofer's leads....it worked fine, so the signal is good. Re-attached woofer...no signal. Connected woofer directly to amp...no signal. The woofer appears OK visually...no broken wires leading into the cone, and solder connections appear OK. Everything looks good as new...not even dusty. Wiggled everything around, removed/reconnected all connectors. Crossover looks new - no dust, no weird smells. Did the *shake test* that I saw elswhere here in the forum, and there is something rattling around when I hold the woofer dome-down and shake. What now? Remove dome to check connection of wires? Resolder something inside the dome? Can I do myself? Have a pro do? Is this considered *re-coning*? I'm a FNG with an exacto on a speaker, and I sure don't want to dork things up! Thanks very much for your assist. -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 Woofer still disconnected? Easy check to at least determine if it's damaged. Connect it to multi-meter and check resistance/ impedance. The nominal resistance/ impedance should be about 4 - 4.5 ohms. If it's not that, then there is a problem and most likely will have to be replaced. Check with Klipsch Tech Support and/or Parts for the replacement K-23. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forte4Life Posted January 7, 2008 Author Share Posted January 7, 2008 Thanks for the quick reply. I'll check the resistance, but in case I need to replace it, Klipsch only carries the K-24 now, and the folks at Klipsch are pretty sure that it is a direct replacement with no cabinet mods. Anybody have any experience with swapping a K-23 for a K-24 in an early Forte, circa 1987, with round terminal cups? Thanks, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 I just tried that on my "new" F-I's just to make sure; works perfectly (my ears are 58 years old, but allegedly still "in spec"), so that would be a good option. If you do that you need to replace both woofers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forte4Life Posted January 7, 2008 Author Share Posted January 7, 2008 Thanks for the confirmation on the swap. That alleviates my aprehension. And to be clear, I would not need to change any of the *electrical bits* on the back of the terminal cup...crossover, capacitor, resistor, and whatever else may be there, right? Just swap woofer-for-woofer, and I'm good to go? As for replacing both, the Klipsch tech guy actually discouraged me from doing so (I asked if I should), saying to give it a listen first after about a week or so 'break-in' period, and then if I decided there was a difference, to order another. So I think I'll take that option for now, since the price for a K-24 is currently $80.06 delivered. BTW, I checked the resistance, and the circuit is definitely open. I even compared it to the other woofer, which gave me a reading of about 5 ohms. And the other woofer passes the 'shake test'! (no loose bits inside the dome). Thanks for all your valuable input. I really appreciate it. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forte4Life Posted January 8, 2008 Author Share Posted January 8, 2008 Groomlakearea51- How is the low freq response with the K-24's? Did you lose any of those lovely lows that Forte's are so good at reproducing? I read on the forum that the K-24's didn't go as low as the K-23's. Thanks, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modified-Tractrix Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 Hi Mark, I am sorry to hear about your woofer problem. The K-23 is fairly robust, regardless of what replacement you choose you may want to get to the root of the problem, too much volume, subsonics, or liberal use of bass boost so it does not happen again. It is interesting that Klipsch told you to use the K-24, the DCR is wrong on it for the Forte, but the rest of the specs are close. When I bought a set of replacement woofers from Klipsch for my pair they were suggesting the K-28 which is used in the Heresy III. I would suggest you use the K-31, it was used in the KLF-30, and the specs are almost indentical to the K-23. The K-31 will cost you more but it is a fine woofer and works great in the Forte. Also, be sure to replace both woofers. You can sell the K-23 that works along with the bad one a recoup some of the costs for the K31's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted January 9, 2008 Share Posted January 9, 2008 Since the woofer is fried, why not take the dust cap off and take a look for what's wrong? I have removed the dustcaps before with an ex-acto knife. I left a 1/8" ridge of the old dustcap on the cone and glued the replacement one right on top of this after I fixed the problem (it may be nothing more than a bad joint on the tinsel lead). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forte4Life Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 loveroklipsch, Thanks for your insight...do I understand correctly that you put the K-31 into the Forte cabinet? I haven't had the time to check the specs on the K-31 yet, or to talk to the Klipsch guys. But when I saw the spec sheet that one of the forum members put out recently and it showed the freq response for the K-24, I was surprised like you that Klipsch recommended it. Since then, I've tried to get as much info as possible before making a decision. My big concern in that I don't want to lose the awesome bass of the Forte. Does the K-31 reach as low as the K-23 (32 Hz?) Or close to it, anyway? You are correct about finding the source of the problem. That *may* be another issue, since my amp has been acting up. It's a Denon POA-2400, old school, made in Japan. I know, that's where I got it way back in 1988. Anyhow, I can listen to it all day at low volume (9 o'clock position). If I turn it up to 1/2 throttle (12 o'clock) or more, it will play ok at that volume for a few minutes( ~10), then fade to barely audible. If I return the volume to 9 o'clock, it will gradually increase from barely audible to normal 9 o'clock level. I have absolutely no idea what is going on. It is definitely not overheating...I've run this baby a lot harder for a lot longer without problems. I also have a cooling fan in the cabinet, cooling only the amp. And there is plenty of free space around it. But I haven't yet found a good amp shop in my area (New Mexico). In the meantime, I have a smaller Denon amp that I am using, and can troubleshoot with. Thanks again for your help, and I'm curious to hear about your experience with the K-31 in the Forte. BTW, it's the K-31 that only has 4 mounting screws instead of 8, is that correct? Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forte4Life Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 djk, That's a great idea that I somewhat entertained initially, but sort of shied away from. But you're right...nothing to lose. And that sounds wise- to leave a small ridge to reattach another dustcap. Question tho- since it is only a dustcap, is it even really necessary? I read on the forum that the dustcap has no sonic effect on the outputof the speaker, so I'm thinking of leaving it off. Thoughts? WhenI removed the woofer from the cabinet, I did the "shake test" and can hear something rattling around inside the dustcap. It actually sounds like a wire bouncing around in there. Could it be the voice coil has come apart? If it is a simple glue repair, what type of glue do you recommend? The procedure is to glue the tinsel to the cone, correct? Also, is there anything under the dustcap to solder? Thanks, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundbound Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Dust cap needs to be on to keep dust from getting in between the voice coil and magnet voice coil gap. Make sure you don't run the razor blade in deep while cutting the dust cap off or you may cut the voice coil. If the voice coil has become open, I know of no way of repairing it unless you get lucky and the voice coil wire broke were it connects to the connector which sometimes can be repaired by soldering back on. If it's broken within the coil itself, it's a small wire with a coating and it seems to me that trying to solder it will melt the coating over the voice coil wire and cause a short. Normally the coil has an open in it that can't be repaired because of this. That sound is probably broken wire rattling around. One of those, dang it sounds. I've had some drivers start making a metal rattling sound while operating. That's usually the voice coil slapping the magnet voice coil gap. Another one of those dang it noises. It's usually the spider has become stretched or torn and the driver has then become off centered, or can be the coil has come lose itself. If you really get lucky and it's just the spider and coil have come apart and your glue repair has possibilities, I wonder if Super glue would work. I've repaired lots of stuff with it! You're probably due for a new driver though unless there's a rebuild kit for that driver. I've been there and I feel your pain. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forte4Life Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 soundbound, Thanks for painting a picture for me on what to expect. I'm afraid it might be the voicecoil, as it sounds like a small spring bouncing around inside. But since it'll have to most likely be rebuilt, I'll remove the dustcap anyway, just to see into the heart of the beast. If I don't go the rebuild route, I'll be looking at replacing it...but Klipsch doesn't make the K-23 any longer, so I'm also looking into options to replace it with a comparable Klipsch woofer. I've learned from this forum that the woofer is matched to the cabinet, so I need something with similar charcterstics to the original. Boy, I sure wish they still made the K-23...it would be so much simpler! Thanks for your help, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modified-Tractrix Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Hi Mark, Actually the K-24 has a free air resonance in the ball park of the K-23, the spec you are referring to may be the low end response in the sealed Heresy cabinet, it will go lower in the Forte cabinet. The K-31 is has specs very close to the K-23 and the free air resonanse is very close also. The sound almost the same in my Forte cabinets. I notice the bass is rolled of when I use the K-28 or the K-24. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forte4Life Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 LoveroKlipsch- I appreciate your reply, and I must say my technical experience comes from visually seeing what a 6x9 car speaker looks like mechanically, coupled with what I have learned from this site. Therefore, your reply is a bit above me, I must admit. I think I understand that the free air resonance measurement means just that- outside of a cabinet, thus no influence. This would be a reference point to compare different qualities of speakers, head-to-head. So if I understand, you have tried all 3: the K-24, -28, -31? And the K-31 is the best option for the Forte cabinet? (Closest to original, K-23 sound?) And the K-31 has only 4 mounting screws, right? Will I need different screws/hardware to mount rather than wood screws as are 'stock' in the Forte? Seems I read on here that the K-31 uses different hardware. It makes sense what you say, that the sound qualities of an individual speaker are cabinet dependent. I didn't think about that when looking at the spec sheet. Thanks for enlightening me. -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Forte4Life: Sorry about the delay... work, sick kid, etc. But everyone covered the questions very well, much better thatn I could, for sure. Good luck (although I do like that K-28....)[] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karbidoczaszka Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 If someone of you have one working k-23-k i will be more then interested in buying it ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 I would still recommend the K-28, or as an alternate as suggested, the K-31. The K-24's will work, but as pointed out, may not have the response curve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dariustdog Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Bump.... If anyone is still looking, there is a K23K available on eBay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HudsonValleyNoah Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 That ebay k-23 is WAY overpriced.You could pick one up in the Garage sale section for around half that price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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