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How to properly restore wood on 76' Lascala's


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What grit sandpaper are you using? I wouldn't go with anything coarser than 220 grit to start out with and then probably switch over to about a 400 grit or so.

Block sand straight back and forth with the grain in long strokes and you should be seeing less rather than more scratches. You also do not want to push down on the sanding block with any more than a light, steady pressure. Let the sandpaper do the work, otherwise you could be gouging the wood if you press down with too much force.

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so did we heed advice given and treat some scrap wood with these chemicals and then proceed to eval how to re-finish.....nope...we jumped right into sanding....

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Actually Speakerfritz, I did "heed" your advice with the chemical remover. It didn't cut it. These speakers had so much paint and wallpaper on them that sanding was required. I purchased the strongest chemical remover that HD sold and it didn't do the job needed. Since I last posted this thread, I have sanded the entire left LaScala and it is PERFECT! I just needed to sand with lower grit paper a little while longer to get the scratches out. These will be beautiful when finished and I will upload pictures.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Mr. W had asked about orbital sanders. As if I know everything, which I don't.

My recent toy is a variable speed Bosch random orbit sander. Nice.

I think the overall issue is that any low power sander with fine sandpaper is easy to control and is not likely to do damage. Much like hand sanding. That is to say, can not be used too agressively.

With more power available, care and patience is required. But that is to state the obvious. Variable speed is a big help.

It is my understanding that the folks in Hope make up some speaker boxes with butt joints with a bit of overhang. Then they sand down the overhang with belt sanders. Therefore, it is possible to keep enough control to grind off the overhang without damaging the veneer on the adjacent surface, if you can keep the belt sander flat to the surface.

Not to harp, but there is a learning curve to any craft. It is tough to get good results the first time no matter the tool.

You see things on HGTV or commercials where everything turns out well on a purported first try. This inspires the trip to HD on Saturday morning with the intent you're all set up for a Saturday afternoon project which will be a sucess by dinner time. It seldom works out that way in woodworking first time.

I don't want to discourage anyone. Rather to suggest an approach. Working on some scrap the first time is a big step up the learing curve. The second time working on scrap gets you much more prepared to work on your Klipsch woodworking baby.

Hey, My sister pointed out that much of the stuff at HD has a tag line, "Easy to Install". As Bill Cosby quipped, "Yeah . . . Right." [With tone of great doubt.]

Smile

Gil

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Gil,

What about using orbital sanders? Same problems?

I can certainly understand NOT using belt sanders.

For me using a belt sander is like weeding a garden with a chainsaw.

Wrinkles

I was thinking the same thing. It's a lot of work doing all that sanding by hand.

It is potentially problematic though, if the user doesn't have experience. But with 180 on a random orbit, it's hard to do much damage, unless you're really holding at an odd angle or right on an edge at an angle. You can get a very smooth finish with 180 discs on a random orbit sander with very little effort. It's also a great tool with 100 or 120 grit for getting the paint off. The trick is holding it flat to the work surface and being careful not to put too much pressure around the edges of the cabinets.

Use a respirator.

Also, you can use Naptha as a way to clean the wood surface and look for scratches or sanding marks. The Naptha will evaporate off the wood without leaving a residue.

Use a respirator.

Greg

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