Forte II Veneer

[irwin]

Is the veneer on the Forte II real wood,or is it vinyl ?

[colterphoto1]

that's some genuine hardwood veneer you've got right there []

[irwin]

Thanks for the answer.Another question you might be able to help me with.The black finish,is it

paint or stain?

[colterphoto1]

#40 sheen black lacquer, usually on ash wood but has also been used on oak veneer in the past.

I think there is a 7777 part number for some brand's lacquer that approximates this. Check with Mr. Paint (Mike Hurd)

[jerohm]

Rustoleum Satin Black (7777) is NOT Lacquer, but CAN be used to obtain GREAT results ... but "I" required many many (wasted) cans of practice. It is closer than any other retail areosol in matching sheen ... It was almost impossible to find spray satin lacquer at all... and what I did find (plasti-kote Black Satin Classic Lacquer #350), did not provide nearly the results of the Rustoleum.... which is really too bad, since the curing properties of lacquer are FAR more desirable. The Rustoleum takes a long time between coats if you wet sand. I do recommend setting the empty cabinet up off the ground with its back on a lazy susan turnable ( like: https://www.hardwareworld.com/12in-Lazy-Susan-Turntable-pW3ASQT.aspx ) and using a spray paint trigger ( like: http://www.automotivetouchup.com/store/accessories/aerosol_trigger.aspx ) and a WELL protected and lit workspace.

BTW, if you plan on doing any serious amount of spray paint can work, GET the TRIGGER. It is the best $3 you will ever spend.

[Brac]

Well I for one am not happy with where this thread ended up. I thought you were asking about the veneer because you wanted to strip and sand and stain. It has been done by a few with great looking speakers to show for it.....

[jerohm]

Unfortunately, "I personally" have NEVER seen a Factory Black Klipsch refinished to bare wood that came out very well. That DOES NOT mean it hasn't been done or CAN'T BE ... just that "I" wouldn't want to bet any of MY money, or invest too much time.

[irwin]

I picked up my Forte II's last week.The cabinets are in need of a refinishing.When the fall comes,I will sand and repaint them black.

[Brac]

I have thought of doing this to a pair of KLF-10's I have laying around, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230252844180

I would think the same would work with black Forte's...

[colterphoto1]

Thanks for the info on use of the 7777

Here's a nice durable paint- Porter Glyptex- we used to use it on redoing kitchen cabinets and built in bookshelves. Oil based, takes a while to dry 'down', but the final sheen is nice and hard. I use the eggshell finish most often. This will NOT look like lacquer but is given as recommendation if someone wants a good tough paint finish. This paint also 'lies flat' in that brush strokes or roller makes will virtually disappear, that's what makes it a great paint for interior woodwork also.

From the Porter website:

"Outstanding
alkyd enamels, fortified for extra durability, that dry to a brilliant
high gloss or a mellow low semi-gloss finish. Non-yellowing. Abrasion
resistant. High hiding. Available in nearly 1,200 beautiful Design
Spectrum® colors to satisfy the most discriminating eye. Use Glyptex
products to cover furniture, toys, cabinets, trim, and a wide variety
of machinery and equipment."

[Marvel]

Unfortunately, "I personally" have NEVER seen a Factory Black Klipsch refinished to bare wood that came out very well. That DOES NOT mean it hasn't been done or CAN'T BE ... just that "I" wouldn't want to bet any of MY money, or invest too much time.

These weren't factory white, but they came out super. It might help when it comes time to work on the Forte IIs.

http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/105834.aspx

[jerohm]

Without QUESTION, THOSE look absolutely GREAT!!! .... BUT they also started off as Walnut, and someone of questionable tastes/motives decided to paint them white [*-)] !?!

The factory Black Klipschs are of wood with much deeper/open grain (be it Ash, or maybe Oak). After stripping a side, with MY INTENTION to once again paint it BLACK, it was clear to "me" that no amount of chemicals/effort (that "I" was willing to indulge), would ever be enough to allow even consider reverting back to, let's say, golden Oak. I am certainly open to being proven WRONG however []

[colterphoto1]

with the open grained wood and thin lacquer, you are correct in that you'll spend a ridiculous amount of time trying to return them to their natural state. In some instances 'less pretty' oak veneer was destined for the black spray booth, so you may not be happy with the results of all your stripping effort in the long run (you've seen kitchen cabinets where some boards are greenish or reddish, that's what we're talking about).

Probably better to strip and repaint or reveneer (that's a whole different process but very doable- look for Greg928s or groomslakearea51 for advice on that)