Yura

It's a Pioneer VSX-2012 and I've got it for $150

Heh, I've just picked up a high-end Pioneer THX AV receiver that is exactly the same as one of the Elite models, minus the tag. Has auto-speaker setup with a mic, LCD remote, 100watt x 7, weights in at 40lb+, and has a ton of Optical and Coax digital inputs. Just no HDMI. Right now it's sitting in the garage intill i figure out where to place my RF-62s in the office. I think the older receivers by are totally worth it. I've just missed a Denon THX Ultra receiver that sold originally at $2,000 , 120watt x 7, and was on CL for $100.

Youthman - Well, I do think that RC-3 is a better center and in part because of its higher sensitivity, but primarily because of the larger drivers. And when you say it's not "voice matched" what does that exactly mean? I really think RC-3 matches RF-62s very well, while RC-52 sounds "small". To reiterate the point - I think that older speakers are better for the money compared to newer speakers at similar or higher prices. RC-3 is closer match to RC-62 and is clearly above the RC-52 in the lineup. I would expect people to buy "higher end", bigger, more powerful speakers especially if they cost less over higher priced, smaller less powerful ones. The fact that they are 5 years older is not an issue, since speakers don't really age so to speak. Monty - Im in San Diego, California.

Hey guys, I have two questions I've been watching buying tendencies and prices on different klipsch speakers and there is something i do not understand: Why do people pay more for less and why they go for lesser seakers? To explain what i mean, here is an example (prices for used gear): RC-3 ~$130 vs RC-52 ~$220 97db, 150w vs 96db, RS-3 ~$200 vs RS-42 ~$400 (both are price for a pair) 95db, 110w vs 93db, 75w I understand that these are not apples to apples, but you see the point? Excellent older model speakers, which are excellent in all respects are being sold at half the price of the more recent models that aren't as good. Why so? The only differences I see are speakers like RF-7 which are for some reason holding their value extrmely well and are often prefered over newer models of towers. The reason why i'm asking is because i have more speakers than i need at the moment and I'm trying to figure out which to sell and which to keep. I have RF-62(pair), RC-3, RC-52, RB-3(2 pairs), RS-42(pair), RW-10d but only need 5 speakers for my home theater. So I have an extra center channel and a pair of surrounds. I think 2xRF-62, RC-3 and 2xRB-3 make the most sense for 5 speaker home theater. RC-3 is closer to the RC-62 in specs, so it should match closer to RF-62s. The same goes for RB-3s over the RS-42s. Ideas, opinions?

I've got Denon 1910 with RF-62, RB-3, RC3. Awesome unit in all recpects. One thing I don't care about is the up-conversion, since my Sony TV does a better job than any AVR. But from what I've read - 1910 is second to none in upconversion for it's price. Pros: Sounds good Stays cool (unlike Onkyo) 4 HDMI in (very important for me) Two zones Supports 1080p/24 On screen setup (not overlay though) Price! (paid $380 for new unit). 2 year manufacturer's warranty Pure Direct mode - turns off extra circuits to produce the the cleanest possible sound Plenty of power for Klipsch speakers 90x7 Audyssey Laboratories' MultEQ® - microphone based setup (MultiEQ is more advanced than the basic Audessey or YPAO - it setups based on 6 mic positions) Cons: Remote - that thing is stupid. It works, but bad design. Use a harmony remote from Logitech. In general I like the way Yamaha sounds and it does have the Burr-Brown DACs, yet I picked Denon in part for the Audyseey MultiEQ, low heat and better price.

Hey all, I've just stumbled upon a set of La Scalas with the folowing serials 005293567 005293568. I take these were made in 2000 and appear to be in great condition. They got AL3 crossover network and K55M's, one owner... What would be a fair price for these and is there anything i need to look out for (such as making sure all woofers/cones are original, etc? I should be picking them up tomorrow, so need advise ASAP.

I can't help you in IDing those burned parts, since I've just sold my KSW-12 today, but hopefully someone can pop the amp on theirs and take a look. I had a few burned transistors on mine and it cost me about $10 in parts and materials to get it fixed, so give it a try if someone can ID the parts.

I would be surprised. I have RB-3 and they have no holes anywhere. The only one that came witha hole was RC-3 (center)(

Take it to electronics repair place. Most likely capacitor or mosfet are dead and need to be replaced. If you can do it yourself - it will cost you around $10. If you want them to do it - it will cost about $60.

Check out this thread or others on Denon http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1152799&page=161 It does work and many people say that Audessey setup made all the difference with their speaker setup.

$2400 will get you a nice Samsung 55" LED edge lit TV. Yes, you won't get two screens, but the one you do get will get really good. If you must split the money and get two - wait for a good deal. I've seen Sony 52' W5100 for $1200 with free bluray player at Frys recently. So two of those or similar model from Samsung will do.

A few things that he said make sense actually. There are often times capacitors located right next to MOSFET transistors which produce a lot of heat. This may damage capacitors over time and cause them to go out. So moving it or replacing with higher temp rated one is a good idea. Cleaning oxidized or crooked contacts is also a good idea as sometimes oxidized stuff grows to a point where it shortens something on the board. And most manufacturers do use the cheapest parts they can get away with. Having said that, I would only bring it in if you are unhappy with the sounds and think that better parts will make it better, or if it has failed.

The main amp cicruit is on a separate board. It is the one that has speaker leads attached to it and big capacitors. There are two electronic components that are a part of the AMP and are pressed to an aluminium heatsink plate (MOSFET transistors i believ. Part numbers: # IRF640 and IRF9640. They work in pair and are likely to both go out when one of them dies. At a wholesale - they probably cost less than a buck each,but when you need one fast and in town - $3 each will do [] At least in my case that fixed the blowing fuse problem, but not guaranteed to work for others.

Well, Just found out that the reason for fuse blowing were two dead transistors on the amp board - $7 in parts and sub is no longer blowing fuses.

Called them throughout the day only to hear that due to some special circumstances they are unable to take the call.

By the way - costco has BDP-BX2 for $110 right now with backlit remote and HDMI cable in the box. The unit is network ready with ethernet port for BD-Live content. I will probably be picking one up for my parents, sinc ethey are getting a new HDTV. In fact - i would get one for myself, but Sony BDP-N460 is in the mail from Amazon. http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11480950

What would you know.... My KSW-12 is doing the same thing - blows fuse as soon as you plug it into the power outlet. Even though it is in the OFF mode, it still does it. I'm quite sure sub is out of warranty (at least i don't know where the receipt it at the moment). I'm curious to hear from others on how their's are fixed.

Sony N460 by far. In fact, if you are in the states - Costco has them for $200 with HDMI cable in the box. Not only does it have wired connection (very important when we start talking streaming HiDef movies), but it also has a ton of internet services in the player. I have a Sony Bravia LCD TV with the same features as this BD Player, and it is awesome!

I assume you mean standard def programming when you say SD - yes - it is a major issue with TV service providers. They don't have nearly enough bandwidth to actually output in high resolution without doing a ton of compression on the stream. And what's worse - they pick what should be compressed and what shouldn't. For example - i don't watch sports and could care less about any game in HD, but would love to watch more of the discovery/CBS/BBC type channels in HD By the way - the 3D part can be cool no doubt, but 2160p is going to be an utter overkill. They can't deliver even 720p on all channels, which looks rather poor with current compression on anything below 37". with 2160p we will end up watching 1080i first compressed for bandwidth concerns and then stretched on our TVs to fill the view. Going to be horrible. Plus imagine watching any kind of a raunchy scene in 2160p - it will be like being there with a microscope. One thing I wish for is for studios to switch to some other frame rate, as 24 frames is really not doing anyone any favors.

This is a touchy subject similar to blur. Some will claim they see the extra colors, but I yet have to see anyone pick a 10bit panel reliably without knowing which one is which. In fact just today I was comparing W,Z and XBR at one of the local stores. XBR looked the best of all them, but not because I saw more colors or better color accuracy, but because it had deeper blacks and stil didn't lose as much in the shadow. To me - 8 bit is not an issue since i can't tell the diference (Especially in video/movie/broadcasting content due to limited range of colors that needs to be reproduced). Even i you look at very high quality pictures on your screen trying to see the difference - you won't be able to as most picture files support only 8 bits of color. I really don't see 10bit as being anything but a marketing tool. My advise - get the features and picture quality you want (by looking at TVs in a store) in the right size without worrying about 8bit/10bit issue or even 240/120hz.

Sony is a good choice. I'm getting one myself for the new year. In Sony XBR is the best you can get (the higher the number after the letters, the better). The next one down is KDL Z series and then W series. I'm getting the KDL40W5100 - 40", 120Hz, 24p, Netflix, YouTube, Slacker radio, Amazon Video on Demand, weathe/news/stocks, DLNA for movies, pictures and MP3s over built-in ethernet card.... Sony and Samsung make the best sets. I've looked at prices and features and found that KDL W series is the best for me. XBR will have slightly deeper blacks (just like top of the line Samsung sets), but may not be as good for shadow detail (which to me is quite important). Sony's are said to have better color accuracy, but Samsungs are known for good blacks. One thing to note - most Sony's are made/lustre screens. Most Samsungs are glossy - which means a ton of reflections. Glossy screens is partly how they get deeper blacks by the way - glossy screen increases contrast.

Thanks guys, I've got the set! Now I need to get a receiver, TV, blue-ray player and some speaker cables I don't have anything to hook them up to yet.

Hey guys, I have a chance to pick up a set of 4 RB3 and RC3 and put them instead of the 2 front KSB3.1 and rear SB2's. I also don't have a center channel at them moment. Is it worth paying money to go to RB3/RC3 from what I have? The set of 4RB-3s and one RC3 is $300 - is that an OK deal? I need to make decision fast... Thanks!

Well, I'm not aiming for the BIG sounds, as my house ir rather small and build by california standards (drywall on wooden frame). So if i had SVS/Velodyne and anything like the larger reference seriece speakers - my house may just not be able to handle it. I'm looking for a simple, clear and belivable sound for HT and adequate music reproduction. I was thinking about putting KSB3.1 front and SB2 for surrrounds, but don't know if i should keep the sub. It is a very large box for my small room and wife's vision of decor doesn't work with this large black cube. Any thoughts on KSW12 - is it something i should keep?

I've just picked these up and thinking about using them for the home theater. I've moved into my own house a year ago and still don't have TV or speakers setup. I'm going to be getting a TV for the new year and will need to get a receiver to power all of this. Do you think these will do OK in 14x16 room? Thanks!