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Deang

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Everything posted by Deang

  1. LOL - great response. BTW - I'll tell you my source if you tell me yours
  2. Just by looking at the specs? Look at the FREQUENCY RESPONSE specification. 45HZ + or - 3db is O.K. 40HZ + or - 3db is better and covers most bass. 35HZ + or - 3db is good. 30HZ + or - 3db is the best, and is very low for a stand alone speaker. Lower than that and you probably need a sub.
  3. I asked this question about something you said in the tbabb thread regarding the 6SN7's. You said: "A good 5692 sounds so damn organic with atmosphere galore. They probably have some of the best soundstaging around. Dean, you got some good stuff too, as you knew I would say. Pay attention to that 6SN7 version, with the 60s coming in high. Very clean tube with a touch of the 5692 sound." I don't understand what you meant by "60's coming in high". I'm also not quite sure if you were applying the statement to the CBS 5692 Brownbase, or the Sylvania 6SN7WGT Chrometops. Thanks This message has been edited by deang on 09-22-2002 at 08:38 PM
  4. Hopefully a nice rich, thick and fat sound. Just what that squawker needs
  5. EL-34 Ultralinear with 40 wpc. Came out in 1985. What did they upgrade?
  6. I heard the 222 is a good sounding machine, it just doesn't have quite the build quality of the 333, 555, or 9000. Do you have Roger Water's "In the Flesh"? That SACD is killer. I just can't imagine any LP standing up to that.
  7. Actually, with a good equalizer and a little tweaking, those 901's sound better than Cerwin Vegas
  8. You might want to post this add over in the HT forum. Probably won't get much interest over here in the Double Mono Forum.
  9. Kelly, please enlighten me a little. I don't understand what you meant when you said: Pay attention to that 6SN7 version, with the 60s coming in high
  10. $200? Count me in. I'm a sucker for an affordable magic box. Honestly, there is no quick fix for a badly recorded CD. I think the 9000ES on it's own is grain free, smooth, without edge or harness -- in short, a very musical piece. The SACD's that I own are outstanding (as long as they are not recorded by Sony - go figure). Don't forget, garbage in, garbage out. It still comes down to what you start out with. No box is a magic bullet for cheap op-amps and other weak parts.
  11. Of course, me being the electronics guru that I am, have no idea what those things you are referring to are. Where do I find this stuff?
  12. That's the problem I have with it too.
  13. Here's what you do then. Get them toed in as much as possible, this increases the distance from the front baffle of the speaker to the side wall. If possible, you can do what I did. If you don't have kids, and a lot of traffic around your speaker, and can listen with the grills off -- you can turn the grills around a put acoustic foam panels in them. Get a mirror, and while you sit at the listening position, have someone move the mirror along the side wall next to the speaker. When you see the tweeter in the mirror -- that is the reflection point. Mark it, and move your "movable" acoustic panel/Klipsch grill to that spot.
  14. Craig, Did you know you are brutally honest, a straight shooter, and definitely stubborn? Cool.
  15. Well, the Sony 555ES is discontinued as well. Sony presented these players to expose the high-end community to SACD. The 555ES and 9000ES audio sections are similiar (but not identical). Crutchfield also has some 555's left. You are going to love the Scott. I'm excited for you. Looks like you have to buy the 9000, or have Mallet coach you through the Super Duper Hi Rez PC CD player (which actually sounds pretty cool)
  16. I reached another quandry in my DQ restoration project -- which is actually almost done. The physical restoration is complete, and I getting ready to rebuild the crossovers. The boards are bare and I'm ready to go. Well, that's the problem. The boards are ugly. Just freaking ugly. 25 year old Masonite exposed to sun and dust. I actually took one and tried to clean it up, but it's pretty hopeless. They are both completely usable, it's just with the rest of the parts looking practically brand new -- the boards are a downer. So, I got the bright idea of making new boards. I figure, buy some hardwood, use an old board as a template, drill my holes, and get some of those - those - what the hell are those THINGS pressed in the holes. They almost look like pop rivets, but they're not. Endless hours of searching netted me nothing. So then, I was told about a place called Mendlesons here in Dayton. It's a closeout warehouse, and the entire third floor is old, very old, very very old electronics parts. It's a huge, hot, confusing kind of place. Stuff everywhere. I spent over two hours in there. It was hell. I was totally saturated when I left...empty handed. I did find out what they are called though. I found a small box labeled "Solder-ins". They were the right part, just too small. No way I could use them. So I guess it's up to you genius' to bail me out. Any ideas? I've attached a picture in the event you have no idea what the heck I'm talking about. This message has been edited by deang on 09-21-2002 at 06:47 PM
  17. Totally agree. I have the same problem to a large extent. I graduated in '77, and much of what I like is at least 30 years old. You are right about the remasters too. They are much better than the original CD releases. What amazes me is that it took the recording engineers 20 years to figure out how to record decent sounding CD material. Or is it closer to the truth that the recording equipment has finally caught up to the CD? Probably a little of both going on here.
  18. You have no idea how timely that post is Turbo. I have several pairs, I mean, my kids have several pairs of underwear I need to clean
  19. Craig, I didn't mean to give the impression I was discounting your concerns. The eBay thing is, well -- suspect. However, even if it is true, you shouldn't let it get you undone. Mobile likes the scapel, you prefer the broadsword. I guess the rest of us will just have to put up with you guys taking pieces of flesh out of each other
  20. Yeah, I agree. I mean, if one does mostly Rock and Metal, there ain't much to lose as far as musical information goes. If you pick up an electric guitar and pluck a note -- you get single tone. That's it. There is very little harmonic information there. Pick up an acoustic guitar and you get a totally different effect. The note actually rings, with lots of sustain. Even things like Elton John, Yes, and the like, used synthesizers for the strings. It's all electronically synthesized (is that the correct spealling - it doesn't look right). I don't think either medium is perfect. Back in the 70's I actually had a pretty nice vinyl rig. I was doing the moving coil bit, and it did sound very good. I will freely admit that CD for the most part over the last 20 year has sucked. It certainly didn't deliver -- and I was duped, along with most audiophiles. However, I think the medium is finally delivering some musicality.
  21. Great camera, those are fantastic pictures. Man, those are clean! Think I'll save those, since I run the same preamp. It's a great unit, it really is. I just bought a pair of NOS 5692 CBS Brownbase for $90 as bench-stock. Right now I'm running some 1950's NOS Sylvania 6SN7WGT Chrometops. A lovely sound. Another channel imbalance problem with an Edster AES unit. The AE-3 Ed sold me had the same problem, and I changed out the Noble pot with a new one, which helped a little. I ended up doing two other things that made the problem go away completely. 1) I checked each KT-88 individually in my SuperAmp, and found a weak tube. Not bad, but weak compared to the others. 2) I removed the SVS sub out of the corner behind the right RF7 (I believe the close proximity to the RF7 was attenuating it's output). The combination of all the above were contributing factors to the problem. This message has been edited by deang on 09-21-2002 at 05:23 PM
  22. The problem with saving a couple hundred off of ebay is that you give up the 5 year warranty. 5 years is a long time. I could have bought one off of Audiogon for around $800 as well -- but decided with something as potentially finicky as a CD/DVD/SACD player, I wanted the warranty. The 9000ES was lean in the bass as compared to my then fully broken in Anthem CD-1. The review was written with an out of the box unit. Since that time, I have made several changes in my system (finishing my upgrade path for now), with the DJH versions of the AE-25 and AE-3, I'm actually running WITHOUT a sub again. The SVS 20-39+/Samson 1000 are sitting in a corner waiting on me to stand up the DQ-10's. Whatever bass problem I thought the 9000 had then, it's certainly not bothering me now. I don't recognize the model of your preamp. Is it solid state or tubed? Looks like you have the smaller Adcom. This is actually a good thing, as the transistors are not doubled up on each side. It probably sounds pretty good. If your preamp is solid state, you might seriously consider selling it, and putting the money with the $800 you are thinking about spending. I would split the money up between a good used tubed preamp, and another player. You might not get the quality of the 9000, but overall -- you would have a much better sound. If you weren't running Heritage I wouldn't say this. Figure $600 for the preamp, and $400 for the player. You might be able to get one of the original Rega Planets, or a newer Sony 555es. Just trying to muddy the waters a little
  23. Never mind. This message has been edited by deang on 09-21-2002 at 02:16 PM
  24. What I really want to know is which amp will survive 'the drop test'
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