Rockets

Ok, maybe it'll work this time...

Allow me to introduce you to the dearly departed Demon Jiggs

Having my roof ripped up by last years hurricanes, I've been looking into metal roofs as well. Besides being more wind resistant they offer substantial energy savings. While these links may not directly apply, you might still find them of some interest. http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/Bldg/pubs/pf337/index.htm http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/bldg/pubs/cr670/ http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/bldg/pubs/flexible/index.htm If you do a little more digging on this site you can learn about the added benefits of radiant barriers and the need for only a 3/4" air gap. I'm thinking one could cover the roof w/ a reflective foil and lay a metal roof over 1 x 2's for an easy retro. Good luck!

Can I ask a dumb questiion? I've never worked with veneer before, but am planning on it. There seems to be a problem with seams pulling apart (sometimes) when using the Titebond method. I'm thinking the cause is the heat of the iron is evaporating the moisture from the veneer. If this is true...could one not pre-iron/pre-shrink the veneer?? Like I said, I have no experience in this...

Go here http://www.dickblick.com/zz029/65/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=6018 I've never used this product, but is probably a weak acid. For two bucks to try, you can't go too far wrong. BTW, I also etch glass Good Luck!

I respectfully disagree with Michael. Applying Lacquer is a labor of love. In my mind there is nothing that compares with it's depth of shine when block sanded and buffed properly. Lacquer is also very forgiving if you screw up. However, using a brush or roller just doesn't get it. I restored an old car w/ lacquer and wouldn't think of using anything else, but that's just me. Anybody that knows anything about paint can spot a lacquer job from acrylic enamel, Imron, base coat/clear coat or any other kind of finish. They all 'look' different. I can't explain it, but if you've ever worked with them for very long, you too will be able to see the difference. That said, if you just want a BLACK high gloss paint you might consider using this. http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=133 it's not cheap, but it IS very glossy (similar to an epoxy finish) and dries hard as rock so chipping should be reduced. It flows well off a brush and is self leveling. If you can keep bugs and debris out of it you should have a near mirror finish. Good luck!

Email HK. I've always found them responsive to my questions. http://www.harmankardon.com/product_support/contact_us.aspx?lstProduct=AVR7000

Tom, you can follow me. I don't even own a cell phone. Not that means much, I kinda live by the rule if you don't like the way I drive, then keep off the sidewalk

I read an article by Massad Ayoob several years ago detailing how speaking, and the related brain use and control to do it, slows one's reflexes. According to him, one has a greater chance of survival or taking control of an assailants gun if you can engage the perp in speach. You can prove this out with the use of a cap gun if you're so inclined. For GAWD's sake don't try to demo w/ a real gun. I don't know how many of you have seen the film clip of this cop giving gun safety tips, telling everyone in the audience he's the only one present "professional enough" to handle a Glock 40 and promptly shoots himself in the foot. Having a "hands free" cell phone buys you nothing, nor does running your mouth to a passenger unless you're mindful to just shut the hell up when the need arises.

Greg, I don't know for certain if this tape will work, but I think it would. It's a polyester/mylar blue tint clear(so you can see your lines), high temp, semi-low tack. no residue tape. The product is autoclavable. You want the #806 http://www.itstape.com/aerospace.htm I'm sure it ain't cheap! They might be able to sample you some to for you to try. If they can't the manufacturer probably could. Oh, and thanks guys for the info on veneer. I'm not ready to cut wood anytime soon, but want to learn as much as I can before screwing up...

Here's a better shot of how this started life as one solid piece before being CNC'd. These are BIG.

Here's a pic of a Truss section with the heat radiators. BTW, the end pieces are carved out of one solid chunk of aluminum. Actually, most of it is built this way.

I can remember the early years watching more of them turn into fireworks than making it into space. Actually, we still have a few duds. A few years back we had a Delta that blew up seconds after leaving the pad. Chunks of the solids came raining back down and burned up almost every car in a parking lot. Not a pretty sight...well... OK, it did look pretty cool! LOL!

Thanks Greg. I've heard there are issues w/ seams, and I'd like to learn from others experiences before I start. I plan to play with some Maple and Burl...I'm not sure what to expect. I saw your cutting method, which made me wonder if for those of us with out a brake, if two pieces of Aluminum angel clamped on either side of the veneer might suffice? Thanks again

Greg, NICE JOB! What method did you use to lay down the veneer? Did you iron on? If so, did you have any problems with the veneer shrinking and leaving gaps at the seams?? THANKS!

Do I work for NASA?? Sorry, I work for a living Actually I work for a contractor...but only for another 5 years or when they finally park the Shuttle. I don't understand the logic myself, to build Station and then basically walk away from it, handing the keys to our "partners". I understand the money is not there to support two programs. With the Japanese and Chinese both going to the moon, we really can't afford to be left behind. The payoff is in the spinoffs of the R&D to get there and beyond.

Here's some more poop on the up coming missions BTW, in the previous photo the large white "box" in between the two MPLM's (right side of photo) is called the Rack Insertion Device (RID) the black object hanging off the arm in fron of it is a Experiment Rack. The RID will rotate and extend the rack into the hatch opening of the MPLM. The MPLM's can also rotate in their fixture to allow for the placement of racks in four planes.

I apologize for the size. Anyway, for those who might be interested in the Space Program here's a photo of the inside of the Space Station Processing Facility (SSPF) as things start to ramp up in preps for Return to Flight.

Timothy Leary's dead...

Randy, from what I've read and 'think' I understand you need to equalize prior to amplification. That said, IF you can trust this filter s/w I have... a Q=2 31hz 6 ohm high pass, 2nd order 'passive' filter requires C1= 1711.83 uF L1= 15.41 mH in addition to the low pass you already have...I guess this would in effect make a bandpass for the woofer. Then again I could be totally WRONG! I don't want to lead you down the wrong path and I am unsure if you'd really see the 12db gain at the crossover point. So PLEASE check with someone else. I also think you'd go broke buying the caps...IF this would even work. If it won't maybe someone can explain and we'll both learn something! BTW, thanks D-Man...a partial answer helped though I'm still on the fence for a K33 vs K43. I'm leaning toward selling my K33's and buying the $250 ea K43's. I started this whole endevor trying to save some $$$ doing a scratch built modified LS. Unfortunately, the more I read the more I spend. It's getting to the point I don't want to add up all of my receipts. If I didn't know better I'd swear I was building a BOAT

D-Man, Please don't harpoon me for asking a dumb question...do you know what the net horn loaded impedence would be for a K43 using the larger 6 X 13 slot. Am I ASSuming correctly that this is the slot size you would recommend for the K43? Having asked that...would this not have adverse effects if one were to use the larger slot with the BASS BIN MOD? Another question I have is I've heard the K33 is more "musical" than the K43, but if I understand it correctly this mod favors the K43. That said, does one woofer still hold an edge over the other??? Opinions anyone?? THANKS

I think the drift pin method and carbide flute method will be the ticket. THANKS

Moon, you're missing OHM's LAW Voltage(V) = Resistance® X Current(I) conversly V/R=I and V/I=R. Read up on it and the relationship of Volts, Resistance and Current will become very clear. It'd take me too long to type out what I'm sure can be more easily (better) explained and found on the net. Remember zero ohms (dead short) will draw MAXImum current whereas an open draws no current.

Thanks, I'll look into the two flute carbide cutter...but won't the brads wreak havoc on the flutes? Not challenging your knowledge or experience...I've just always heard BAD things happen when high speed bits clash with nails. I plan to go outside the box. However, I want to play around with a few things before I cut/waste new wood and find out I don't like what I hear or find other issues. I bought this LS for the sole purpose to use as an test mule. It is in no way furniture grade and will take bondo, veneer or paint to semi-restore it, so doing a little hacking on it now really doesn't matter.

NO add on...I wish to invade! I have other plans for the HF section (eliminating both horns) and the top's coming off, one way or another. I may take a sawsall with a metal blade (for the brads) and thin kerf to it if I fail to find and easier method. Losing a 1/32" or 1/8" to the kerf won't kill me, not keeping a straight line will.