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I know it's kind of unusual to see a monitor being sold here, but I figured that since I got so many good deals here, I'll put it up here, just in case someone wants it. The monitor is a black NEC 1960NX, 1280x1024, excellent response rate, excellent condition (no scratches that I know of, and no broken pixels). I have the original box (somewhere), and will ship (you pay exact cost), or meet/deliver/etc... if in the NY area. Let me know.

No. The impedance level is not matched to a low-level RCA input. The sub amp does not have the gain to be able to take a low-level input, thus even at maximum boost the sub will simply be too quiet.

They look amazing. I'd get these for my parents if they were available.

Quoted from Slashdot: Newest Commissioner Deborah Tate has apparently announced that while she knows its outside the FCC's authority, she's a huge fan of copy protection and hopes to use her new position as a "bully pulpit" on the topic. Now is it just me, or is this just the next logical step in the continued bribing of government officials by the RIAA/MPAA? I file this under the next "broadcast flag" initiative, which,despite being struck as illegal on FCCs part last year, is likely to come back with the new FCC chair. Maybe I am misunderstanding something, but I don't think that it's the function of the FCC to force the consumers to abide by RIAAs failed business model of beating their customers into obeying their every whim.

Try an SVS PB-10 I guess. Unless you're comfortable getting used subs, this will probably be a very good sub... and it should be able to keep up with RF-3s at moderate listening levels. P.S. Getting a 2.1 as a gateway to more is not ghetto - it's what most people do, unless they've been able to dedicate a large sum to buy everything at once. P.P.S. If you're within 4-5 hours of the NYC area, my RF-3IIs are for sale.

I think you should forget about satellites, because the regular satellites don't fit on the Promedia stands anyway. If I were you, I'd get a set of 25s (or their new replacements, don't remember the model numbers) all around. They are wonderful little speakers. Get the 4x RB-25s, and 1 RC-25... then buy a Panasonic XR-70S digital receiver, and spend whatever money is left on the subwoofer.

If you want the maximum yield from your remaining budget, I'd sell the RW-10, and purchase a Dayton Titanic 15" kit. For just over $600, you'll get an amazing sub... which could be compared to at least an RSW-12, if not the 15. For home theater, it will be a change you'll have to feel and hear to believe.

The RB75's would have blown the curve!!!! They would've blown the price range by a factor of 3X too.

The new Dell 3007 is coming at the end of December: 30" of LCD glory. http://www.engadget.com/entry/1234000240070831/ 2560 x 1600 resolution (>1080p), 12ms response rate, etc.... Will likely sell between $1500-2000.

Don't worry - you won't hurt your speakers. Use an optical-out from the Xbox into your HT and you'll be blown away. Great!! - exactly what I wanted to hear! Tnx. The only thing I have to admit, is that for first-person-shooters, headphones work best. They may not sound as good, but they're better for hearing and localizing the enemy footsteps.

I know it's stupid, but with less than 1.5 hours free/day, I must ensure that I waste them in a totally irrelevant, yet deeply satisfactory way. So here it goes: Post your own pwnage pics!

Don't worry - you won't hurt your speakers. Use an optical-out from the Xbox into your HT and you'll be blown away.

Thanks. I did have the fastest Pentium4/Geforce3 (below 2.5GHz) system in the world. I had my P4 1.6A overclocked to 2.48GHz (55% overclock), and my Ti200 overclocked over 20% on both memory and GPU. Took me over 3 months to get there, but I did get the top spot in the category on 3DMark2001.

Yes, the memory, just like the CPU, can be underclocked with no adverse consequences. As far as your cooling, the XP-120 should really be able to take care of ANY overclock, with almost any voltage. I doubt your load temps will go past 55C regardless of what you do. Actually, I am thinking that you might not have seated it correctly, or didn't use the right amount of thermal compound... or perhaps it's a bad thermal compound. My friend has his Venice 3800+ at 2.5GHz at 1.5V, and his load temperatures don't break 50C. He's only using an XP-90 though... with an 80mm fan. So the fact that that much larger XP-120, with a fan that blows significantly more air, is not doing the job, makes me think that perhaps something isn't totally right with the mounting. I tried 1.5V as well, with 2 cores, and my temperatures still didn't break 55C at full load. Also, see what the temperature in your case is - do you have fans blowing in as well as out? Depending on your cooling bias (intake vs. outflow), you may want to reverse the fan on the XP-120 to suck the air out of the heatsink, rather than blow onto it. That being said, you might very well have hit the wall at 256MHz. Actually, that's roughly where my friend's CPU stops OCing well. If you notice, as you're raising the voltage, that more volts are not allowing your CPU to go higher, then just stick to 250MHz, since you've hit a dead end. That's still a very respectable 25% overclock.

The reason why I am saying that you should drop the HTT and memory multipliers (as well as memory timings) is because you want to find the max overclock of your CPU without having the rest of the variables get in the way. Once you find the max stable clock, then you can go back and set the HTT such that HTT multiplier * Bus speed is less or equal to 1000MHz. Then you play with the memory timings and bandwidth. I, personally, prefer tighter timings with lower bandwidth. This combination will always win, unless loose timings allow you to run 1:1 with the CPU, which I guarantee that your memory cannot do already. Try to get the timings as close to 2-2-5-2 1T as possible, regardless of the frequency.

Don't worry about volting the memory. Up to 2.9V should be fine, over that - it would need heatspreaders... but below that, the air from the XP-120 will cool them just fine. 1.55V CPU is about the highest I would go, and you're right on the memory. Drop the HTT divider to 3X, then drop memory to 3/4 or even 2/3, and use Clockgen to see how far you can get, while still being able to finish 1M test on SuperPi. When you freeze, just up your CPU voltage, restart, and see how much higher you can do. Once you're at 1.5V, and you crash, go back into the BIOS, drop the bus frequency 2-3Hz, and you're good to go. Use the Prime95 Torture test overnight to test stability. (I prefer Sandra burn-in though)

Here's a comprehensive AMD64 Overclocking guide, that is short and easy to use: CLICK ME As far as the 120mm Panaflos, they are not meant to be used at full speed, but rather with a fan controller. You can also physically alter their voltage by moving the wires in the 4-pin connectors. Normally, I get Panaflo fans, but of the L1A variety, not the M1A or H1A - the quietest, slowest kind... and they are usually virtually inaudible. Your temperatures are excellent, and you shouldn't worry about it. Just follow the steps in the guide and you should easily and safely be able to get to 2.5GHz or so.

What are you going to do with your 2 GTXs?

Very nice choice of components. Make sure not to forget to the the free Call Of Duty 2 with the eVGA card. P.S. Venice 3200+ should easily be able to do 25% more, as in 2.5GHz (from 2.0 stock) at 1.4-1.45V... If you're lucky, and you can do 2.5GHz on stock, you're likely to be able to get to 2.8. I don't know how much experience you have with overclocking, but even if you haven't done it, you should, since it's free performance and not dangerous, as long as you follow directions. If you haven't done it or need help, let me know.

That's a lot of money. Forget this one, and get the NEC-3540 DL DVD-RW instead. Only $35 and it's about as fast as optical drives get.

Congratulations! I am sure you'll really enjoy it - it's a great card, especially for the money. Don't forget to get a Zalman cooler for it and overclock the hell out of it. A lot of GTs go almost as high as GTXs when overclocked, but they run really hot, so they require extra cooling. But $30 in cooling is a cheap price to pay for $130+ in performance. Just built a system for my friend using one. Got him an Athlon64 Venice 3200+, running at 2.5GHz (from 2.0GHz default), on an EPoX 9NPA+ Ultra board, with 2GB of PC3200 RAM. Seems to run games noticeably faster than my rig. On the other hand, I can encode a DVD in under 15 minutes, hehe.

if you're going the DIY route, why not just buy that 15" titanic sub for $200 and put together the enclosure yourself? i'm sure the amp isn't worth another $400. The amp is another $200, I believe. I think the reason to get the kit would be to save yourself a lot of trouble. I don't have a workshop and the tools required in order to construct an enclosure, but if he does, then by all means full DIY is the way to go for the best customization and price/performance ratio. But if you go totally DIY, then there are probably better drivers out there than the Titanic.

I don't know. I haven't used an Nvidia card since I got my 9800Pro a year ago (Used a Geforce 4 4600 before then). Try this forum for your question: Futuremark It is the forum of the makers of 3DMark software, and the collective knowledge of the forum encompasses pretty much all an enthusiast needs to know about computer hardware.

This motherboard is supposed to be quite good, from what I hear. You're right. The ASRock and the 3200 Venice for $150 is the best deal you can get at this time, upgrade-wise.

It unlocked to 16 pipes fine, and I have it at 520/1100(550DDR) right now, which is faster than a stock X800XT. However, X800GTO2 is no longer available and will never be available again... they new ones have the extra pipes laser cut and they are called X800GTO2L. Your best bet is to save up the $330 you need for an Nvidia 7800GT. ATI is at a loss in pretty much every price bracket at this time (the GTO2 was an obvious exception).