yaffstone

The attached GIF shows you the page, specs and everything you should need.

Unless you happen to be impeaded by your inductance into the hall of flame.

Inductance is like electrical momentum. Once you get a current running through a coil it creates a magnetic field in the direction perpendicular to the current flow (through the center of the coil) If the material in the coil gets magnetized it takes energy to change the strength or direction of the field. This induces delays or phase shifts in the electrical signal. Impedance is similar to resistance but I've never been quite sure how.

Moon, Spending more than you make is part of the definition of an audiophile isn't it?

D-Man, I just noticed your sign-off. I never knew that "economy" meant spending more than you make. Interesting...

And the iron core raises the inductance a bunch with respect to air. That's becasue iron has a higher magnetic suceptability.

Check with Shuff. He has magic cables, Must have cost a bundle. They even keeps the house afloat in the Florida swamp land. oops

Another vote for replacing the motor run caps. I've done it on three sets of heratige speakers with uniformly great results. You can get caps at Alliedelec.com I like the ASC the best because they are 5% high grade units. Depending on what you choose for caps the raw cost is $25 - $50 for a PAIR of AA networks. I still want to hear an A/B test of Hoveland Music caps versus laboratory grade....

We used to use the carburator in the repair shop. Then they went to fuel injection and we had to quit smoking. Now I treat people with cancer.

These are now sold.

Nice maple. Hope you didn't have to steal it from some poor violin's back.

Could you explain this please? Is the idea to port to the front from the bottom?

Ditto, CW has much more bass than Forte regardless of the specs.

I've replaced the motor run caps on three sets of heratige speakers so far, k-horns, belles, and la scalas. Loosley translated, I'm new to this! I used laboratory grade metalized polypropalyne caps because I haven't been convinced about the differences between those with audio written on them and those without. Stated differently, I want an A/B test before spending an easy factor of 2 to 3 on the caps. That point asside, in each case, I changed the caps in one speaker and then listened to one at a time. Each time there was absoutely no question about shades of grey or which was the better sounding speaker. The 20+ year old motor run PIO caps always sound muddy compared to the polys. It's an instant in your face difference. Based on my lame 3 set experience, I whole heartedly agree with DeanG about the major difference the upgrades will make. Please temper the above pontification with "IMHO"

I've posted these on e-bay and the auction will expire in 6 days. I'd rather deal with and see a forum member get these so if you are seriously interested, let me know and I will stop the auction once we reach an agreement. Currently there are 8 people watching these on e-bay.

http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?spkrfull&1116022469

And one from the top. Pretty nice grain for birch but a small scratch on this one. Again, the other speaker is near perfect with no scratches, dings, or marks like the one shown.

Here's a side pic. I've chosen the worst looking of the two speakers to post so no one can possibly be disapointed. The other, not shown is near perfect.

Heratige series used horns exclusively. Advantage is very high efficiency due to small size of driver, very low distortion due to small size of driver. Note that the bass bins in the k-horns, belles, and lascalas are folded horns by virtue of the cabinets while the bass drivers are large cones. High efficiency was very important in an age of limited power in amps. The more modern designs of the reference series start to use cones. I haven't looked at the specs but one can easily imagine that they no longer deliver 100 db at 1 W since power is cheap these days. These lame reasons are my relatively uninformed take on the subject and are not to be construed to be pure fact, true as they may be, or not.

I have a pair of Cornwall II for sale. Serial numbers 8615877 and 8615878. These are model CII-BR and have been oil finished a medium brown. Sound is perfect, small imperfections in the finish, no dings. I'm looking for what I paid for them, $900.00 Forum members get first crack. I'm located in New Hampshire / Vermont and will meet someone a reasonable distance away (a few hours) if that will help. I'll send more pics to anyone interested. Thanks, David

There was an adjustment screw (trimpot) on one of my old crown pre-amps to adjust gain on the phono section. Check your pre-amp for this. Also, there are two kinds of cartridges, moving magnet, and moving coil. They require different settings on the phono pre-amp. Gain is different between the two as well as some other factors.

S/N ratio is typically higher on DVD players then on CD players. 110 db versus 100. If you're using digital out to your pre-amp, then I would go with the higher S/N. If you're using the analog output then the DAC matters a lot for the quality of analog signal production and then it gets into which unit has the better quality converter.

Alliedelec.com Cornell-Dubilier part number CGS153U075V5L 15,000 uF, 75V Allied Stk# 857-0294 $22.03 Minimum order of $25.00 I think, shipping may make this up...

I built my 5 string viola and play oldtime fiddle on it. My wife plays banjo and my 10 year old son has picked up fiddle and tenor sax. I also pick at guitar and mandolin from time to time. We've all played in public but not often. The kid won first place in the Vermont fiddle competition up in Vergens this year.

I built my heretige HT system that way. Most receivers will let you configure which speakers exist and which don't. You can often choose the surround mode as well.