Scp53

i mis read a post on the other board and i need to use the "scope" visual theme on wmp(not eq/bar visual). i tried it and i think it works ok(the top of the waves are cut off and that is clipping i beleive). ill record some more tones now and find out where clipping is happening. and if anyone knows of a free program that can show the waves and such let me know. id really like something better than wmp. thanks scp53

DrWho, i dont think i ever said my amp never clips the lower frequencies. it does do it on the lower freq but happens most often on higher freq stuff. i think the clipping at lower frequencies is not as audible as at higher music frequencies? what do you think. should i put this sub in a ported box? ive modeled it and i get considerable gain. im sure it would remain pretty tight. tell me what you think if you can model it. someone on a diff board said i could do a transmission line setup or add a passive radiator. what do you think? thanks scp53

the spl at which is occurs depends greatly on the content. music content vs ht(any where from 95db to 100db in room for music). i do agree with you that going up to 500wts wont make a big diff in spl. its just annoying to hear clipping. and my crossover is like 60-70hz. its hard to tell on the amp. when its not clipping it blends quite well with my sb3's or rb25's. im going to run some tones(10-15hz sin wave) because winISD says with 250wts i should be able to fully move its suspension and there for shouldnt hear any clipping(ill be VERY careful about it. im not planning on bottoming it). ill do the test when i get home today and then ill post back on the board. i was on the diy subwoofers forum and one guy suggested to record the sound as it played. he said i could play it back through wmp and see the clipping on the correct "visulazation"(the freq/eq one). he wasnt sure if it work but ill give it a try maybe. thanks scp53

id try posting on the multimedia part of the forum if you havent already.

I just friction fit the foam into mine. I cut the pieces to fit snug into the sides so i didnt make a mess with adhesive. but you have the 15in kit and that cab is bigger. and how much diff would polyfill make in the cab? isnt it more a of a "personal thing"? i cant remember scp53

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ancientdude, ill tell you right now that your paying for quality components. 200 for the driver and 400 for the amp equals 600(this is quite lower than msrp). add the finished cab and free shiping and the price is 688. i dont see the problem at all. and keep in mind that these are "house brand" parts, not some dam name brand(although name brand is good). imo, the kit parts are not marked up near as much as name brands. and there made in the usa(not sure how much that means?). the warrenty is also good. scp53

i vote what meuge said(i think im always here to second what you say about the kit?). scp53

let me say this, does sub clipping sound quite different than speaker clipping? i mean clipping at real lower freq is going to sound diff than at higher ones? and also, this driver is NOT leaveing the gap or anything while im playing it. im sure that the problems im having are not from a poorly designed driver or over driven one. im not quite sure i follow on the input signal and such. does the amp need a "full" signal to clip or something? i ve talked to other people on boards and no one has mentioned this so(and they say that the kits are underpowered)... and yes the amp can clip before shutting down. PE also has a amp that has "soft clipping" on it. thats what this amp lacks so you hear clipping. if you could, maybe send me a sound file(i know you've made them before) that has clipping in it at the 30hz-80hz area. then i can be POSITIVE that what im hearing is clipping. and the "clipping" only happens at peaks(ie-bass drum), not constantly(unless i really push it). thanks for helping me out of this confusion scp53

won't some specialized audio shops measure driver specs for people? whether you get the driver specs or not, im sure that you wont save a dime on it when its all done. if it were me, id sell what you've bought and start over. "blindly" building a box will be difficult. go get an adire, dayton, blueprint or some other good driver maker and build sub. you'll end up with a much better product for the money. scp53

i was thinking about getting the 500 watt amp to keep it from clipping and to take advantage of the parmetric eq on it. but at $300 for the amp, its not cheap at all. for that much i should have got the 12in kit to begin with. so about my only options are: build a different box ported build a different box and use PR or just add a PR to my current box id rather add the PR in a NEW box and not cut up the one i got now. then if it goes bad(if i model it right it shouldnt) i ll drop if back into the old box. tpg or DrWho id still like to know, are you finding(maybe you havent modeled it yet?) that my sub driver will only move about half its travel with 250wts in the music freq range? i had a few others on a diff forum tell my i could easily be asking to much of my amp in this config. im hoping you'll comment on this(i dont think you have yet). i think modeling it and looking at cone excursion graph will show this. thanks a lot scp53

i know its clipping because the cone doesn't dampen well at all. that only happens at about half its movement. but it depends on the song. (i think)in a sealed box the lower the freq the cone will move more than at a higher freq with the exact same amount of power. so songs that play lower freq will move the cone farther easier than songs that have higher freq. this would explain why my clipping is hardly audible in ht because its all lfe. not very much high stuff. when i modeled it in a sealed 1cu. ft. box with 250wts i noticed that the driver can only be driven roughly half way in the "music range" before it clips. i put it in winISD and set power to 250 and turned it to the cone excursion graph to see this. thanks scp53

my sub kit came under powered and im wonder what you guys think. right now, when i play music, it clips a lot if i turn it up. in the music freq range, it seems that 250 watts will only move it roughly half its excursion. i dont need to run it there but id like it to be able to with out clipping. when you model it, what do you think about where the amp will clip? how much power should i have(i think 500watts)? thanks scp53 edit- and no i m using no eq. just the x over on the sub(and lfe out from receiver). my x-over is only 12db slope so thats part of the problem. wish it was like 24db per octave. the only real fix to the prob would be using a 500 watt amp. and fyi for modeling, im using the 10in mk3 in a sealed 1 cub. ft box with 250 watts

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I agree with Marvel. IE is getting out dated for me

thats insane . did you here any movies with it?

do your speakers have the grills on or off tonight scp53

i think that sub has a eq built into the amp so a "flat response" amp wont work well(cant use a "generic" amp). you need some way of eq it. if the amp puts out a flat signal then look at PE's 120 watt amp. someone on here should know for sure. scp53

if you can get t/s parameters for the speakers then you could do something. until you have those your chances for a success are slim. search the web for the ts paramters. scp53

ok, i bought a 10" dayton titanic mk3 sub kit like many months ago(250watt plate amp and 1 cu.ft. sealed box). ive known for a while that the amp is too small for this congfig. so, ran some numbers through winISD and found that my sub is more underpowered than i thought. i found that in the music range, my sub only can move roughly halfs its excursion before the amp will start to clip(how audible is slight clipping?). can someone confirm this for me? ill give the link to the driver page http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber =295-414&ctab=2#Tabs click on the dumax report pdf for specs. im thinking DrWho and some others could help me here. my config is a titanic 10" mk3 driver in a sealed one cubic foot box-so you know what to put into a box design program. let me know if im right about needing more power. thanks a lot scp53

dude, your gonna have more problems than just getting the passive radiator weight right. that rsw10 sub amp has an eq on it, so a "normal" sub amp is not going to work. you'll need to eq it some way. imo, you'd be better off buying the rsw10. a amp to power it and a eq of some sort will cost at least 400-500. then you add the wood cost and what you paid for the drivers and i see little savings if any. thats my take on it. scp53

i think it would be a close call in terms of performance. but id take the klipsch just because there klipsch and look a LOT better imo.

so the older you are the more you have? im still in HS and have no where near what you guys have. i suppose someday ill be there. scp53

moon, what kind of spls do you listen to with all those refs?

congrats on the purchase and welcome to the forum. the sc1 will match fine, no problem. as for the warrenty, i think the warrenty is ONLY for the original buyer. so you'd have no warrenty if you went second hand. however, klipsch speakers are VERY reliable and you probably wont have to service them for a long time(unless you over drive them). scp53