CECAA850

To my parents. Tomorrow, 11/28/10 will be their 75'th wedding anniversary. They have been extremely blessed. Carl

Nice Peter! You're almost there.

I see where he's designed some. but I've never read that he prefers it to his IB. I couldn't find where his tapped horns reached anywhere near the 112 dB @10 Hz that his IB does. I did however only look at his website, there may be some postings that I haven't seen however.

Welcome to the forum!

Subs aren't matched to speakers pre se, not in the conventional sense. You timber match your front speakers to each other, but it's not critical with subs. You might look for max spl #'s if you can find them as there may not be many people out there with this combo of new products yet.

Note to self, check the original post date.

I'm thankful for electricity, running water and for not having bombs blow up in the streets I travel.

Good posts Rudy.

If you build either of those, you won't need to sell them. Claude, have you ever heard an IB or either horn sub in question?

I'd be surprised if this guy wasn't hamburger by now. I got sweaty palms just watching. http://www.autoblog.com/2010/09/27/video-moscow-motorcyclists-crazy-high-speed-commute/#continued

It sounds like you need to go into your receivers settings and be sure it knows that you have speakers back there. Something may be set up incorrectly in your speaker menu.

No! Let the sub roll off naturally. Trying to boost below 20Hz taxes the amp and really taxes the driver. You're going to get some boundary gain if you're close to a wall (or corner) which will help with extension.

The 20 Hz limit is not a problem. Most subs roll off so fast below 20Hz,that there's no need to EQ. You'll be using the BFD to tame peaks, not raise nulls or drop offs.

We watched the BluRay version of Gamer last night. Warning, do not watch this with your children. Lots of language, blood and boobage. The surround effects in the fight scenes were outstanding. There was a lot of couch shaking bass too. The LFE track wasn't heavy throughout the movie, but when it was there, it was loud and low. Lots of infrasonics. Highly recomended sound track. The movie itself was fairly predictable, but I'd watch it again just for the audio.

What could be more comfortable than watching a movie in bed? I have to admit, sometimes I lie down on my couch when watching a movie in my living room.

I've never heard of a BFD hum, nor has mine ever made any noise. Let me start over. I had a ground loop hum when I first fired up the IB. I assumed that it was because my sub amp was on one circuit and my receiver/BFD was on another. I put a cheater plug on the sub amp and never gave it another thought. I honestly don't know what the root cause was.

LOL, the pic made it look thick, my bad. I've got plenty if you get in a bind. I ordered a 50' roll, 1/2" wide by 1/8" thick. Sticky on one side. I doubt I used 5 or 6 feet of it. The whole roll was only $6.50 or so from parts express.

3/8" is pretty thick for an access door. I have some left over from my build that I'd be happy to send you. I think it was 3/16 but I'd need to check.

How much do you need? Do you have any for the driver access covers?

Picture, I don't see it? Thanks again Claude. I didn't see a pic either, just the plan drawing. It's too bad the box wasn't drawn where the front panel could be flush mounted to the sides with speaker gasket material. That way you could just unscrew the front panel and it'd be right there.

I sort of agree with this BUT.. You have to remember that Audyssey doesen't just change the frequency response, it works in the time domain also. Upgrading your crossovers will alter frequency responses but does nothing in the time realm. As far as re running Audyssey after a crossover upgrade, I agree whole heartedly and re-ran mine after my crossover bump from DeanG. You should re-measure anytime you change anything, be it speakers, crossovers, drivers, move or add furniture, hang drapes etc.

Wow, 3K for an amp and 1 enclosure! I'd be tempted to shop for used if you absolutely have to have that particular setup. 3K can buy a lot of woofage.

AFAIK, room correction is meant to take the room out of the equation, not change their sound. Let's say you listen to your speakers outside, with no room interaction. Theoreticaly you can hear the differences in your old and new crossovers. That's the same change you should hear in your room if your room correction is working properly. You are supposed to hear what the speaker actually emits as opposed to hearing the speaker and it's reflective sounds. It won't make a defective speaker sound good. It will let you hear the defective speaker without room interactions.

Jason, I was going to send you a PM about my SHO. I looked for a week and couldn't remember your username. I just remembered the pic in your avatar. It's a moot point now, I sold my SHO last night. Carl

Glad I could help[]