CECAA850

Got me!

It's about 5000 cu/ft with 3 openings. I've e-mailed Chad only to see if I could get a price break on 4 drivers (not) but not for a recomendation. I'm going from 2 SVS's to an IB and wanted to be durn sure I noticed an improvement. The 2 SVS's were no slouch. I also live in Tx, and really didn't want to go up into that hot attic again to add more drivers later on down the road if I was unhappy with 2.

---------------- On 4/1/2005 10:14:26 AM Scp53 wrote: are those 18in avalanches your talking about? that would be the ultimate sub system. if you have any neighbors, they'll for sure hear it and feel it scp53 ---------------- Yep those are the ones. I get a subsonic chubbie just thinking about it. I still have to give praise to the SVS though, Pound for pound, dollar for dollar, it's the most impressive piece of sub I've ever had, and I've had a couple.

PM is screwed today. I've tried 5 times to respond to merkin and it won't let me. I can also be reached at servmgr@sbcglobal.net Carl

Yes, I'll miss it but I'll have my 4 18's to console me

I'm going to build an IB and reclaim some of my living room floor space. As far as the SVS goes, I'd never buy a sub from a different company. Their products are outstanding and their customer service is even better. If they sold stock I'd have some!

Thought I would offer this to forum members first before e-... I live in the TX/LA area, PM me if interested. The SVS warranty goes with the sub and the sub is about a year old.

Minn, you beat me to it. A lot of reflection there.

At the CIB I just put in my name, Carl Pileggi, the thread is labled "Minimum Requirements". As soon as I sell my last sub (the PCUltra is gone) I'm going to order 4 of the Avalanch 18's and a Behringer EP-2500. I plan a horizontal line array between my living room and attic. The drivers are on a 2-3 wk. backorder anyways, waiting on 12 spoke baskets.

Depending on how your room reacts, and is shaped, you may want to try placing the sub directly behind or beside the listening position. You will not need as much gain to achieve a balance with your mains when it is closer to you. It may not be the optimal position but you will get a more tactile response with less gain.

I've got one more sub to sell (PB12Plus2 any interest?) and I'm going to try my hand at it. I've got a thread running over there now. Can't wait.

Do you have an SPL meter? If so, how loud was -10 in the listening position. If you don't have one you need to look into getting one to set up your HT. It's virtually impossible to do it properly without one. In your setup menu, most speakers can be set from -10 to +10. Where are yours set?

Good move!

Merkin, one concern you had in your original post was about reliability or problems buying a used sub. The SVS subs warranty goes with the sub and not just to the original purchaser. Just call them up with the serial number off the sub.

When my dealer ordered mine, he was very upfront with me. With the discount I was getting, my speakers would not arrive untill the next stock order so they could save on shipping. I had no problem with that. That may be the case if you got a good price but should not apply if you paid close to retail. Where abouts in upstate are you from?

The reason I suggested the Y is based on an experience I had with my subs. I recently added a second sub to my system. The location I had it in used about twice the cable to reach it as compared to the first sub. In addition I had to put two sub cables together to reach it. My original sub would auto on with the slightest bass signal as it allways had. Sub 2 needed a considerable ammount of volume for the auto on to engage. I attributed this to the signal loss from the extra cable length and coupling needed to reach the sub. When I used the Y between the sub in and sub cable, the 2'nd sub would kick in at the same time as the 1'st. It's been fine ever since.

Also, be sure to enlist a friend to help in the process. They are akward at best to hang and heavy. Yes, panhead screws in a stud are the best way to hang them but you can use hollow wall anchors as a last resort if a stud is not available.

Do they make speaker grills?

Mighty, those are 3 very good subs. The biggest difference to me is having to assemble the Dayton. I'm a plug and play guy. Someone else can put my stuff together. You should be happy whichever way you go.

14 ga. in that short of a run is PLENTY. Most receiver owners manual recommend equal length wires for opposing speakers. Why' I don't know as I doubt you could hear a difference in different length cables. That being said, I made mine the same length. Home Depot's wire is cheap enough to throw an extra foot here or there.

You won't need as strong of a signal to turn on your sub if you put a splitter (Y) between the sub and sub cable. You will however need to recalibrate the sub as the gain will be increased also.

---------------- On 3/21/2005 2:05:31 PM pyroponic wrote: I heard the RSW-15 has tighter bass above 30 HZ, does that mean the RSW-15 has inferior bass < 30 Hz? ---------------- Yes.

Ahhhh, didn't check to see that the poster was from Canada. My Bad. I believe that HSU has some distributors north of the border. He should give them a look.

Is there a reason that you don't use the keyholes on the back of the speakers?

It could be a simple problem also. First isolate the problematic speaker. Hook them up one at a time until the problem recurs. Then CLOSELY check the wire strands of the problematic speaker/wire combo. at the speaker and receiver. It only takes one or two stray strands to cause the problem. If you determine that it is indeed a speaker, remove the drivers one at a time and check for wires in close proximity to each other. You may get lucky.