Jay L

i think most people would be surprised to see just how much power speakers really use. its quite eye opening to look at it on an o'scope. 100w runs out REAL fast even at moderate listening levels. michael, did you get my email yesterday?

any of their models are fine to use for home, you can slow down, or change the fans to make them quiet. i have an xls for subwoofer duty, and an old D150.

Pantera - Walk

i did this same thing about a year ago. i installed the woofer in the rear, and mounted the tweeter, and mid on the top. the existing CW1 midrange hole is about 1/16th of an inch too small. the tweeter, well that was a pain kinda. i used a gasket pattern from my klf-20 to cut out the hole. it wasn't perfect, i had to massage it some more. couple hours work and it looks fine to me.

i have used the 6030 and currently using 3 different 8810/8811's in the house. the code was "made" on the 8811, it should transcribe to the 6 device remotes as well. though some buttons are not labeled the same.

no, but i'm workin on getting that.

FASTER is a great movie/documentary on DVD about MotoGP and WSB racing. great footage and pq.

the fan noise isn't an issue if you slow it down or replace it. i added a resistor to the fan and slowed them down. i can not even hear them, and the amp runs as cool as room temperature.

i have one, it doesn't have any bad habits that i have found. I use it to power a subwoofer.

i am using a kpt-884 with a crown amp, no eq. works great, i like it very much.

A personal project of mine was to create a remote code for the DD5.1. This code is for use in a One For All remote or any remote that is JP1 compatable. If you know what JP1 is then you know where i uploaded the file to. If not i will provide a link so you can learn about it. JP1 is the only way i know of to program and use the code i created. I do not have the time to go into detail about the process, but all you need to know can be learned from this link. http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/

i think it will work with digital cable, i know it works with satellite and uhf/vhf. but with analog cable i suspect it would interfere on some channels. best solution is the obvious to run new cable, plus you won't loose +-6db by splitting it twice as with diplexers.

the easiest way is to use 2 diplexers, they are cheap and are not hard to find. they work by combining at the outside, then splitting on the inside. run about $20 for two hook up same way as any old splitter. i used them for a while for HDTV locals, and my DTV.

DI box with gain might do the trick, many to choose from out there

if you want to bi-amp, you need to use the "zone 2/surround back" channels along with your B mains. the manual explains this.

it seems the hardest part is applying the pole piece to the bottom plate while holding still the washer. if the pole piece had a resting point for the plastic washer it could never be off axis. or make the stupid thing one piece and this problem would never occur in the first place. i got an alnico with the weldid ring and you can make it off center as well. i suppose one could demag, refit, then remag that would work easily enough.

i just rebuilt two k77s, everything went ok, but the pole piece seems to not be perfectly flush with the top plate. maybe 1/2mm off, but it is centered. i think i used too much glue to break them back apart. i used 2 part epoxy too.

Yeah, I wouldn't have the heart to paint the cabinets. While I agree that the KLF20's kick the RF25's butt, I can trade up through the dealer I bought my RF25s through. I am going to probably go up to the RF7's by summer. if you upgrade to rf-7s then you will be back to the same size cabinet of a klf-20. wouldn't you be upsizing instead of downsizing like you originally said?

take out the drivers, use a heat gun if needed and loosen up the rest of the glue from the inside. you should be able to pry it out easily if 75% of the glue is loose or joint is broken. clean the backside of the motorboard, and the inside of the cabinet where it joins. reapply with liquid nails, gorilla snot, or your favorite glue. let set 24 hours and reinstall drivers. its a fairly easy task, and its not as big a deal as you may think. just because some had the issue most of them did not.

the klf-20 are very nice, its like the forte only more of it. i've owned both, i still have the 20's.

thanks for the correction, i wasn't sure as i haven't seen one in person, only pictures.

the 52, 53, and 57 are the same driver, all have a 1.5" diaphragm. the 51 has a 1.5" diaphragm as well i think. the 55 has a 2" which gives it higher power handling than any the others.

i used an SPL10 with my heresys, i thought it was a great combo.

the fan noise is significant enough to hear at a few feet away, i attenuated mine by adding a resistor on the fan. its now a non issue and the amp runs cooler than my acurus amplifier.

not if you add on a sound chamber, then it threads on. ala klf-20/30