sputnik

---------------- On 3/1/2005 10:25:50 PM klipschaholik wrote: Then poor Bigben is out 6 grand. Not! This guys a flake! $210 wouldn't come close to covering the shipping cost for all that wood to Montana ---------------- I agree. This is interesting to watch. Speaking of watch, anyone interested in a Rolex?

I just got a quick response to my question from the seller. I think it's past 2:00 am in the UK. The answer seems honest. -----------"This is not a relist.I bought them from AZ,US,and now i resell them. Shipping to Montana,US would be 210$. Ê thanks!"------------------- $210 for shippng is a good deal. Didn't the original seller say that shipping would be a fixed fee of $500? The no reserve part of this is still strange. Wouldn't he want to protect himself?

I just sent a polite question to the seller asking about the shipping cost to Montana. I'll let you know if they respond. I doubt that I'll hear anything - isn't about 1:30 am in the UK right now

The plot thickens. If he blocks the questions, the rat odor increases. Keep posting - I'm on the edge of my chair. I just got semi-scammed on ebay.

Note that the winner of the first auction was "bigben(something)". Could be a buyer in England thinking he got a good deal, trying a quick resale at a higher price (flipping) to make a quick profit. Why use another ID as a seller though? He should set a reserve too if that is what he trying to do. There is an outside chance this is a legit but low class thing. You can always use the ask the seller a question feature and simply ask if this is the same equipment ("kit" in England I do believe) that was recently sold as Item # whateveritwas. It goes right on the auction page and perhaps warns potential buyers that it does not look right. I'll post the question if you don't want to since you have already contacted him. This could be like something out of the Hardy Boys.

I loved mine. I was sad when the last little blue light burnt out, but I still have it packed away somewhere. ADDED: I used to run KG-4s on it.

Is the shelf particle board - I can't tell? Anyway, go 3/4" plywood for the shelf along that 1x2 across the front if you haven't already. Is that a Marantz 2015? That was my first. How does it sound in there?

If I were to insert a dead short and a switch to control it, would I be degrading the signal significantly and/or creating any impedence issues? It seems like one of the most sensitive topics around here is speaker wire and here I am considering cutting, splicing, dead shorting and adding switches. But really, how much worse is that than adding the extra speaker to the loop in the first place. I might try it with cheap wire and see how it goes. What would be a good switch to use? Thanks. Edit: The other thought that I tried a few days ago was to connect the little speakers as B speakers and run them out of phase to give the impression of more soundstage well to the outside. Any thoughts? All this is just for accent nothing more - I still want to go back to clean single pair stereo for most listening.

Thebes, You seem to have a gift. My evocative music. "How Can I Tell You" - Cat Stevens. Now they think he is a threat to freedom (baby it's a wild world) "Roll Me Away" - Bob Seger. My wife and I always stop to slow dance to that whenever we hear it. "Ripple" - Grateful Dead. Good memories associated with that song. "Why Don't We Get Drunk and Screw" - Jimmy Buffet (obvious)

I tagged this question to another thread but I thought I'd ask anew. What about unequal lengths of positive and negative wires to the same speaker?Ê I wanted to try to use a second set of small speakers to accent my existing speakers.Ê A wise forum member suggested to connect them in series.Ê How far can you go regarding the effective difference in length between positive vs. negative connections on one speaker back to the amp.Ê That is if the positive wire going to the first speaker is 8 feet long but the rest of the series is 24 feet long does that cause any problems?Ê Are there limits? Also is there a clean way to bypass the second set of speakers if you just want to listen to the primary speakers? EDIT: My gut feeling is that the placement of the speaker in the current loop doesn't really matter.

What about unequal lengths of positive and negative wires to the same speaker? I wanted to try to use a second set of small speakers to accent my existing speakers. A wise forum member suggested to connect them in series. How far can you go regarding the effective difference in length between positive vs. negative connections on one speaker back to the amp. That is if the positive wire going to the first speaker is 8 feet long but the rest of the series is 24 feet long does that cause any problems? Are there limits? Also is there a clean way to bypass the second set of speakers if you just want to listen to the primary speakers? EDIT*** Started a new thread with this question.

I think it's late enough here that there may be an interesting film on Cinemax soon (not really ). So far, going out phase with the little guys made the placement of the center "channel" tricky but I eventually got it there. With the little guys in phase, the sides were quite dominant with hardly any noticable center. I didn't try any series connections tonight. There was an enrichment with the little guys out of phase and it was fun to play around all kinds of placements. The shining moment came when I was testing the set up with symphonic music which has been the weak point of my system (anything else from chamber music to reggae to Johnny Cash to Dire Straits is great). But I could not get the concert hall feeling from symphonic music before. With the little guys out of phase I got that - it was cool. It may not be faithful but it was more enjoyable and much fuller. Maybe that's just because I'm using more speakers period (well barely more). Those little 1.1s are pretty humble and lovable. I'll have to experiment with the variables some more but for now I should clean this up before the wife gets home. Maybe there is a Lou Dobbs rerun on CNN . Thanks for the input. I'll add to this later if any one is interested.

---------------- On 2/25/2005 10:34:05 PM Colin wrote: run them in series with your horns, but way off to the sides, the more effcient horns will dominate, but but the other speakers will pick up the stereo effects... ---------------- In phase or out of phase? Right side up or up side down? Edit: Ooops, in series, I can't go out of phase can I? Re-edit: Or can I....? I could be getting into dangerous waters here. Will something pop or start smoking if take off in series from the big guys and cross connect to one (or both) of the little guys to throw them out of phase? I'm not going to try that one yet

Home alone and bored. I have a pair of KSB 1.1s in a closet. What if I set them outside my pair of Fortes and run them out of phase. To me, when speakers are out of phase it sounds like the sound is thrown to the out side. Would my little idea be a brilliant way to widen the soundstage or should I just go see whats on TV?

We are redecorating and I want to build a new set of grills for my Forte IIs. Does anyone know if you can still get the 50s & 60s style cane grill cloth or a good imitation. It would be nice to find old Klipsch badges as well. Thanks.

Russ, Thanks for the link and the photos - I really want to try that. Why am I craving pretzels?

Looks like alot of cable questions lately. I'd like to ask one while people are thinking about it. Until recently, I had a hodge podge collection different interconnects. Most were skinny wires from the seventies. One of them, though, was a very robust car stereo interconnect (Stinger brand)that I got at a garge sale for a quarter (a real two bit interconnect). It was a very impressive, slick looking, and well made shielded directional cable with nice polished connectors. The sound was definitely improved over the older wires. Automotive audio stuff seems very plentiful in pawn shops and garage sales. It seems like it has to well made to survive and perform in a car environment with predominant teenage use. Any opinions on automotive (audio) wiring for home stereo??

I see that there are advanced monks here. I went to the master with my answer (i.e. the sound of one amp clipping) and he hit me with a stick. I must discover the answer.

What is the sound of listening to a Bose Wave Radio while wearing Bose noise canceling headphones?

---------------- On 2/24/2005 10:10:18 PM homemade wrote: RG 58 is a 75 ohm antennae cable! ---------------- Yeah. I don't understand that? Shan, are you saying use coax cable? Would you use the single center (one cable per post)? Or the braided part somehow? Or use both? Sounds interesting, the sound signal from the digital cable on my TV sounds great running through similar cable spanning a few hundred feet around my house.

I just talked my wife into viewing it - I'll probably camping on the couch tonight......alone........in the dark

---------------- On 2/23/2005 5:05:13 PM Colin wrote: a peak at the crossover point? ---------------- I think that's what I was thinking initially. Does that mean that the signal goes both ways?

Well, l I came home over my lunch hour(s) and tried a few things. I have a test cd that, among other things, produces ascending tones begining at 2 Hz and ending at 22 kHz. The NADs "normal" inputs filter out signals below 10 Hz and above 40 kHz. The woofer cones and radiator were oscillating slowly (sewing machine speed) in the very low range, well below 32 Hz. No sound but I didn't know they did that - thanks for pointing it out Gil. Nothing obscene though like they were going to shake out or something. Next, I sat next to the speakers and barely touched the active and passive cones with each hand (not quite exactly like Mr. Spock doing the Vulcan mind meld with the Horta). As the tones got higher, both active and pasive cones vibrated faster with decreasing travel (is that excursion?) till sound became audible. They seemed to react in a similar fashion until that one frequency (where the slight vibration happens) when the passive cone stopped vibrating. Just the opposite of what I was thinking - not over excursion but none or hardly any. The passive cone vibration resumed only faintly with higher frequencies til the mid range took over. This did not happen at a more mature (lower) volume. I notice this on LPs as well as cds so the source isn't the cause. Where I notice this most easily is an 1986 Enya cd - its just titled Enya. The cover is a black and white photo of Enya in a little black dress kneeling beside two mean looking dogs - to me, it looks like she is about to say sic'em. The effect occurs at 20 seconds and 50 seconds into track 9 "Epona" and also at 1:40 in track 12 "Boadacia". The super low stuff on track 14 "Dan Y Dwr" sounds full and potent. If anyone has this cd and Fortes, I would like to know what you hear. At higher volumes and at a specific frequency could the passive radiator just not correspond with the active cone and just sort lose sympathy with the pressure changes in the cabinet and cause the cabinet to "hum"? Or, is it that infrasonic effect? The whole thing goes away at less juvenile volumes so it's not really a problem - I still love these speakers in this set up in this room. My speakers are Forte IIs. On a side note, the little magnetic buttons on the grills can spin and move and that sort causes a tamborine effect at high volumes with vibration. Scotch tape over the magnets fixed that.

Thanks Gil, I'll experiment with that tomorrow - the wife is asleep now. I think I have identified most of the room effects - fireplace, shutters, baseboard heat, stuff on shelves etc. The speakers are pristine. The magnetic buttons on the grills do buzz along with this vibration effect. If you put your hand on top of the speaker it is a more pronounced vibration than normal - like resonance. The effect is from the sound producing elements of the speakers and it occurs in both of them. I would not call this a real problem - more of a sonic curiosity. Thanks again for the attention.

The effect isn't at the lowest extreme. There is a great rumbling seismicity down there. This happens a bit higher up and at higher (not quite ear splitting) volumes. I'm not sure if it near the crossover point. I've got a couple of old amps and receivers I could try when my wife is out of the house. Thanks. I just had another thought. Could the bass driver and passive cone go "out of phase" at a specific frequency at higher volumes?