wuzzzer

No question, if you already have a C3 get the B3s. Matching your center speaker to your front mains is very important for the best sound blend between them.

Receivers have built-in amplifiers that power the speakers. The fact that its a receiver refers more to the fact that the unit receives signals from several sources and can switch between them to control what you're listening to. If a receiver doesn't have built-in amplifiers its referred to as a pre-amp. A pre-amp is used with a separate amplifier. You are correct in the fact that your 80W Denon won't output more than 80 watts, although it probably could with quite a bit of distortion.

I believe the RF-5s can handle at least 500 watts maximum input. Underpowering speakers causes more damage than overpowering them. If you overdrive an amp and drive it into what's called clipping you can easily burn up the tweeter and/or woofer. Having more watts avalailable allows you to listen at louder volumes with less distortion introduced by the amp. If you can stand being in the room while running 150 watts through your RF-5s you might want to invest in some ear plugs.

Why? Because I don't want to burn up my amp. Its rated for an 8-16 ohm speaker when bridged. Ultras are 4 ohm speakers. I've heard of people burning up their amps when bridged when they connect a speaker with too low of an ohm rating. I guess I'd rather take advantage of the amp's full power instead of using only one of its two channels like I'm doing now.

No, you want your receiver to control the LFE and lowpass crossover.

Get an amp/receiver that is rated at a true 150 watts/channel. Although, 25 watts through your RF-5s will be plenty loud.

You know you want another one! []

I'm selling one of my SVS-CS Ultras. The Samson S1000 amp I have has a switch to run in bridged mode, however they recommend an 8 ohm minimum speaker connected when bridged. The Ultras are 4 ohm speakers. Is there something inexpensive that I can hook up in-line to my speakers that will make the amplifier see an 8 ohm load?

When you get your new receiver, there are the settings for your sub: Gain set to about 10 to 11 o'clock Crossover set as high as it can go (usually 120-150Hz). You'll want your receiver to control the subwoofer's crossover. 80Hz will probably work very well with your speakers/sub. Phase to 0** Run YPAO to balance the output of the sub with your other speakers. **Regarding phase, it will be helpful if you sit at your main listening position and listen to some music you're very familiar with that has a good bass beat. Have someone switch the phase between 0 and 180. If one of the two positions sounds louder than the other, choose that one. If they both seem to sound the same set the phase to 0.

Unfortunately the TV I'm buying is only available online. Looks like any discounts and coupons Best Buy gives out are not good for online purchases. Oh well, its still a good deal and I already have a Best Buy card so I'll be able to get the 36 month financing.

My word those horns are gigantic. Anyone have a pic with a person standing by a Jubilee for a size comparison?

Thanks Bill, but I'm looking at this year's model which is the 737 series.

Buying a new TV and want to get the best price possible. Email me if you do. Thanks! wuzzzer2001@yahoo.com

If you look at the speaker that has the metal jumper in place you'll see that positive to positive and negative to negative is the way they need to be hooked up. If not, you'll only hear sound from the woofers or from the tweeter depending on which input terminal you connect to. You can use a short piece of speaker wire to serve the same purpose as the metal jumper.

Buy 'em! Woofers tweeters and crossovers are readily available. If the one speaker doesn't have the bi-amp/wire plates it makes sense that it doesn't seem like its working. Buy 'em, get them home and then we can go from there.

Well, I sold the JVC to a co-worker, bringing it to their house Sunday. Now its time to decide. I don't think my wife nor I will be happy with our 13" spare bedroom TV for very long! [:S] I think I have decided on the Mitsubishi for sure, although now I'm not sure if I should get the 60" or 65". My current TV is 56" so I like the idea of going to 65" so its a noticeable difference in size.

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Thanks for all the advice everyone. At this point I'm looking at maximum screen size for the money. Requirements I have for the new TV are: At least 60" screen 1080p/120Hz No off-brand $1500 tops. That's about it. There are some LCD TVs out there that will be close to $1500 in that size but not by brand I'd want to own.

As long as you don't have the volume high enough to hear audible distortion you'll be fine.

Thanks! I love Google SketchUp. Once you get the hang of it it is very easy to use.

If you buy used you're going to have a ton more options to pick from. Otherwise if you insist on buying new RF-82s are excellent - you can pick them up on eBay at a buy-it-now for around $850 with free shipping. If you're planning on spending $1500 I'd recommend spending $1000 +- on the speakers and the rest on the receiver. $1000 will get you a LOT of Klipsch in the used market.......

Of course that's the way it works. I don't have a center speaker but that doesn't mean I don't hear any of the information that's from the center speaker mix. My receiver knows I don't have one because its turned off in the system menu so it routes the center info to both L and R front mains. Same is true if you don't have surround speakers. Nothing fancy needed, just turn any surround speakers off in your system menu and you'll be fine.

Welcome to the forum Flowmaster! Just to let you know, optical digital cable doesn't transfer any of the HD audio formats. Also, there are many companies that make digital audio cables, not just Monster. []

You definitely take better pictures than the seller! Congratulations and I'm glad to have tipped you off about them. I knew they'd be a nice upgrade over your previous surrounds. They look beautiful!

Ridiculously easy. Bob has a step-by-step guide on his website on how to do it. Took all of 10 minutes per side. The only thing that's slightly difficult is installing the horn back in the cabinet because it has to be inserted at just the right angle. It does help to have a needle nose pliers as stated on his website to remove the screws holding the horn onto the diaphragm/magnet. Here's the link: http://critesspeakers.com/replacing_the_diaphragm_on_.html Well worth the money in my opinion.