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JRklipsch

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Everything posted by JRklipsch

  1. Thanks! I was under the impression that we could no longer order direct. I ordered some about 2 years ago @ $19.00/yd, Klipsch is VERY proud of there grill cloth @ $54.00/yd. Thanks again for the info! JR
  2. I am in need of about 1 yard of Klipsch black grill cloth. The factory no longer sells it and I didn't want to pay $45.00 plus shipping from Wendell Fabrics. So, if anyone has any extra cloth they would like to sell, please, let me know. Thanks
  3. Yes, they require corner loading. The back of the cabinet has a vertical slot running the length of the cabinet acting as a real loaded folded horn. The bass response is good, but not as solid as my Cornwall. JR
  4. That is the original grill cloth, it was still wrapped in its original shipping material as was the walnut top. JR
  5. Hi, I apologize for the poor picture quality, but my camera doesn't take very clear pictures inside. Anyway, the cabinets are all original except the front frame. They had been assembled with full range drivers and the top horn cutouts covered. The previous owner had stopped construction after the base cabinet was complete. I purchased vintage crossovers, horns, and drivers from eBay and a forum member (Thanks). I use these for surround speakers that compliment my Walnut '79 K-Horns and Walnut '74 vertical horn Cornwall center channel. These speakers sound quite good. JR
  6. Hi Guys, I am familiar with this cabinet. I had won the cabinet and the K-1000 horn from this seller late last year, with the understanding that I would pick up cabinet on my next trip to Houston. Well, do to many circumstances I never made that trip, so I have the horn and driver and told him to resell the case, as I was unsure when I could retrieve it. So, it is a cabinet only. The seller is a very honest and very understanding person and is probably glad that someone can use it, rather than just pitching it out. I have a pair of 1959 Shorthorns that several forum members helped me complete last fall. I have pictures of the finished product if anyone is interested. I bought these speakers from someone who never finished the kit, as a matter of fact the Walnut tops and speaker grills were still in the original packaging. If anyone needs dimensions, I know they are listed on the Forum, or I can find mine. John
  7. Hi Guys, I do not want to muddy the water any more but, if you are looking for a better than average DIY project, Welborne Labs sells a silver toggle switch (all the contacts are silver coated and sealed) that sounds very good in my DIY speaker switch box. There is a very slight difference in sound quality, mostly in the highs, with this switch, but most people would not notice. But as we all know, any added component in the chain is audible. Also, I used silver coated wire to hook up the terminals to the banana jacks. The switch also has an "open" center point, so when you switch from one to the other it makes a complete break in the circuit. Good Luck! JR
  8. Thanks! If these turn out I will post pics.
  9. Will anyone with a type B K-Horn please give me the dimensions of the toe kick fastened to the bottom of the Bass Bin Cabinet. I have a pair of '79 Horns type C that do not have a kick plate, I am veneering the fronts and would like to add the toe kick. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, John
  10. Hi Guys, The EV T-35s are rated 8 Ohms. I guess I will have to find another tweeter horn, the speakers sound realy nice as is. I was suprised at the amount of bass they put out. I had read that the Shorthorn was Bass poor, but mated with a K-Horn it rounded out the stereo image as the high frequency horns matched. Eventhough they do not have near the bass my K-Horns do, they are respectable. So, am I correct to say that having different impedence drivers changes the crossover point only and will not otherwise damage the speaker or amp? I would like to thank Capt'n Bob and Mungkiman for all the measurements and help you have given me on this project. I have not had as much time to work on them as I would like, but one cabinet is finished and the other about 75%. I have included a picture so you can see my progress. Thanks, John
  11. Hi, I have been working on a restoration project of a pair of Klipsch Shorthorns, I have finished one speaker cabinet and working on the second but I do have a driver/crossover question. I have a K-1000-5000-W crossover, T-35 tweeter horns (8 Ohms), K-55-V (16 Ohm?), and K-33 Woofers (4 Ohm?) What are the correct impedences of the drivers for this crossover? I have an old sales sheet that shows you can buy an upgrade for the K-Ortho to a K-77, K-55, K-33 driver compliment, but do you have to change the crossover? I beleive the University SA-HF is 16 ohm, what about the K-77/T-35, and the K-33/Stephens Trusonic Woofer? I have been looking for the original drivers, but I wanted to use what I had for time being, will these work? Thanks, John
  12. The trip sounds like a great idea, count me in. It would be great to see some of the original tour guys again. I missed seeing you at the book signing. JR
  13. Hi Guys, Just an update, the Shorthorn grill frames are made and oiled! I plan to install the grill cloth this weekend and assemble the rest of the cabinet. I do have one question (hard to believe I know), under the cutout portion of the front grill frame the bottom front of the cabinet is visible, including the screws. Is this part of the cabinet supposed to be painted or consealed somehow? It looks pretty funny. Also, is the grill cloth attached to the frame or the body of the speaker? Capt'n Bob, when I take the cabinet body apart to install the drivers and new weather stripping, I will remove the inserts and send to you. Thanks again for all your help, if all goes well I will post pics next week! JR
  14. Are your woofers attached with screws from the back side, or are they attached with a machine screw and nut? My SH have screws and nuts holding the EV 12" that is currently installed. When I attach the 15" woofer there will be 4 holes in the cabinet from the previous driver. Will I need to fill these holes? Thanks, JR
  15. Hi Capt'n Bob and Mungkiman, I have completed the construction of the Shorthorn frames, I am now trying to match the color to the top piece. Maybe this weekend I will have it matched and install the grill cloth. I will post a few pictures when I have it completely assembled. Thanks again for all of your help! Capt'n Bob let me know about those drivers, I'm getting close. JR
  16. Mungkiman, What I meant by width of the frame is, it appears to be 3/4" walnut, is the entire frame 3/4" or does the frame taper? Thank you again for the other measurements, all I need now is to find some walnut that will match the tops. The lumber I found locally is very dark. My Cornwall uses a terminal block for a speaker connection, I was wondering if that was the way these should be also. Are there any model numbers or codes stamped into your enclosures? Mine do not have a Klipsch sticker on them or any markings that would suggest their age. Thanks again, JR
  17. Thanks for the measurements! You have been very helpful, I really appreciate you taking the time to measure up your speakers. I made a Cadd drawing of the frames last night from your measurements. I do have just one more question, is the frame the same width all the way around? What I mean is, in the picture that I have it looks like the frame might be cut at a slight angle from the outside of the frame toward the grill. It might just be the angle of the picture. Oh, make that two questions, how do you attach your speaker wire? These have speaker wire running between the motor board and the enclosure, sandwiched in the weather stripping. I am looking for some walnut locally, I will be cutting the frames myself (with the help of my father, who is an incredible woodworker), but thanks for the offer to take yours down to have copies made Capt'n Bob!! I will post pictures when I have them completed. Capt'n Bob have you decided to part with those K1000 horns and Xovers? Let me know. Thanks again everyone for all your help. JR
  18. Mungkiman, Thanks for the information. How far from the floor is the "cut out" portion of the base of the frame? How wide are the "feet" on the corners? Thanks for the description of how the face frame mounts, but I have a question: If the frame screws to the motor board from the inside, how do you screw the motor board to the enclosure if it attaches from the outside? My enclosure is entirely sealed except for the motor baord which is detachable from the outside. What drivers are in your Shorthorns? Thanks, JR
  19. Capt'n Bob Thanks! Actually, I have a complete set of drivers from a pair of Cornwalls that I was thinking about using. I have an old copy of a 1963 price sheet that shows that the Shorthorn could be ordered with a K77, K55V w/ K600 horn, and a 15" woofer, well those are the same as the Cornwall. Only thing is, the motor board is pre-cut to handle a K1000, so I am looking for a K1000 so I will not have to modify the Shorthorns at all. (The K600 horn is wider than a K1000) So, if you can talk yourself out of those components, I would be most interested! The top of my Shorthorn cabinet has 5 or so pre-drilled screw holes to mount the top, although the top has no pre-drilled holes to line up. The side grills have L bracket to attach to the side of the cabinet, much like a K-Horn. Did you say you had another kit? Thank you so much for any help you can give me! JR
  20. Hi, I have recently purchased two Klipsch Shorthorns. They were a kit with uninstalled walnut top, side grill assembly and original front grill cloth, but has no front grill frame. My question is to anyone who owns or is familiar with the Shorthorn: What are the dimensions of the front grill frame? I have a picture of a Shorthorn in PWK's book, but I need some information on the size in case Klipsch can not manufacture it for me. Also, I need to know how to attach it. The motor board screws to the body of the speaker from the outside, so I am not sure how a decorative frame would attch since the rest of the speaker is sealed. Also, the motor board was factory cut for a K77 tweeter horn and a k1000 mid horn with a 12" woofer. The speakers currently have 12" EV full range speakers, but I would like to upgrade to the K-Ortho 3 way version. I have the drivers, but I do not have the K1000 or crossover schematic. So, as you can tell I need a lot of info. about these speakers. I do want to finish the speakers to their original condition, because the pieces that I have are in absolute mint condition. So, if anyone knows where I can find a K1000 horn or crossover schematic, or assembly instructions PLEASE let me know. Your help is greatly appreciated, JR
  21. Thanks HDBR, What I was wondering was, do I simply oil the veneer? Do I sand between coats? How many coats? That sort of thing. Wes, my walnut Cornwall has (had) the grill cloth fastened to the motor board as well. I think the Cornwall 2 (vert. horn)had the grill fastened this way and the "PWK" logo was nailed to the motor board over the cloth, mine still have the nails sticking through. Thanks
  22. Hi, I received the single Cornwall 2 this week, it is in near mint condition (except for the lack of grill cloth). It sounds great. I ordered some grill cloth today so I will have them back in order very soon - minus the "PWK Logo" of course. HDBR - I like the color of this Cornwall so much, I plan to veneer my Birch K-Horns in walnut. Can you tell me how I can match the Cornwall shade? How did they finish these in the factory? Thanks, John
  23. I emailed Kerry about the K-Horns, they are for TRADE not for sale. So, if anyone wants to deal give him a shout. John
  24. Does anyone know where I can find a PWK "pie shaped" logo for this Cornwall when I replace the grill? John
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