Blvdre
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Posts posted by Blvdre
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13 hours ago, jimjimbo said:
Actually, it’s a horn lens.
Take it back. And it's spelled Ye olde horne lense.
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7 hours ago, RandyH001 said:
the H5 will have a much bigger tweeter lense , alike the AK6-AL5 and the current H4 cabinet is tall enough to fit the largest Klipsch tweeter lense currently manufactured -
The Heresy has a horn, not a lens. These terms are not interchangeable.
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6 hours ago, jimjimbo said:
The H5? Where do you get this information? Or is this just conjecture as usual?
It's lens, not lense.
...and it's a horn, not a lens.
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Stay away from ads with too many exclamation points. Too many is more than zero.
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Do some investigation before using Murphy's Oil Soap on any wood finish (aside from asking here).
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JRS94, if you move the autoformer tap to 3, you will also have to replace the 13uF cap with a 6.8uF, in order to keep the same midrange crossover frequency.
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Horn lens or lens is often misused when referring to a horn. I think carlthess40 means horn.
Here's an example of a JBL acoustic lens:
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The 2226H is what Wayne Parham uses as a driver upgrade in his 4pi speakers, along with the B&C DE250 compression driver, and Wayne's own horn and crossover design.
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14 hours ago, geezin' said:
Just would like to see some photos of nice speakers. My apologies if that offends.
Not at all; my comment was in support of yours (wanted to see those pics, as well). Geezers unite!
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5 hours ago, geezin' said:
You know the drill no pics it doesn't exist. 😁
Geezin' for a reason.
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Why not return them?
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Filters have phase shift associated with them, and in some cases, it is better to wire drivers 'out of phase' to correct for this shift.
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Keep at it. At many businesses, if customer service has a backlog, multiple requests will move you up. Squeaky wheel, and all that.
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1 hour ago, Jer_Hy said:
@ricktateI haven't rebuilt the crossovers, crossover and speakers are from 1977. I do have a cheap multimeter, but I've never tried testing capacitors. I'll see if I can get a handle on that. Not looking to blindly spend on crossovers but if something is way out I'm keen to replace it.
Unless your multi-meter can read a capacitor's ESR (equivalent series resistance), it may not tell you what you need to know. It's not so much that the capacitance value changes over time, but that the capacitor become resistive as it ages. This time period varies, depending on the type of capacitor used.
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I have a pair of Alk Universals that I used for a couple of years, and just pulled them a few months ago. Nothing fancy; nice air-core transformers, Dayton caps, and the 3654 autoformer. You can select -3, -6, -9, or -12 dB attenuation for the midrange. Built by myself; good solder work and layout. Shoot me a PM if interested.
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I have a pair, and hadn't listened to them in a while, until recently. I would describe them as very polite. Personally, they leave me flat. If you like the dynamics and low distortion of horns, buy horns.
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9 hours ago, JMON said:
If that is true, then there is no reason to get any official confirmation from Klipsch. The OP knows he bought them from John Prine (not Pine) and he knows his receipt is authentic.
Not true. It's always good to establish strong provenance, whether you intend to sell or not.
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How cool is that? A legendary songwriter & musician, love his music.
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7 hours ago, moray james said:
good to hear but your description made me laugh thinking about you with a horn between your legs and wondering if now you could pee with constant directivity.
Lol, an instance where constant coverage is not desirable, and beaming is the goal.
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Your sound issues still may be just the caps. Place your ear up to each driver to verify that it's functioning. I would also suggest replacing the internal wiring and terminals.
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Must be. A nice change, from the reviews I've read.
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I thought Iteachstem, after trading his Fortes for these (your) KLF 30s, and refurbishing the cabinets, left the OEM drivers installed. Is that not correct?
The cabinets do look nice, BTW. It would be good to see a close up of the cabinet bases, where the water damage occurred, and was repaired.
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I've only used this technique with fasteners, so probably not applicable, but I've been pretty successful with it; if you're trying to loosen something that's tight, try tightening it a bit first, then loosening. Seems counter-intuitive, but it's easier to break free.
I like the one/two punch of penetrating oil & filter wrench.
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Who needs such promises?
in 2-Channel Home Audio
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Lol, $600 for deoxit. The ad-copy read like a really dry satire piece.