kevinmi

I decided to finally re-do the Khorns. I used Crites Tweeters, Cast Woofers, and home built wood tratrix type mid horns. First pic of wood horn in the rough

. Sure thing Kevin, That is one sweet looking turn table in your avitar. Who makes it?Mike, that's my JVC TT installed in a plinth I made this summer. I bought another JVC TT that I'm going to build a similar plinth for out of oak to match the Khorns.-kevin

Hey Mike-I just made a pair of mid horns for my Khorns using the program you sent me. I'll be posting pics soon. I went to the local Michigan Lumber to buy some flexible luan for the horns, and they wanted $40.00 for a full sheet. As I was walking through the warehouse, I spotted some other thin luan, so I asked about it. It was door skin luan, used to put over a damaged door, and very thin. Long story short-it bent the same as the bendable luan and cost me $11.00 for a whole sheet! Hope to get an invite to listen to your GWN's when they're done! -kevin

JVC QL50 modified. I just bought a QL7 which will be modded also. These TT's are every bit as good as Denon or any other high end direct drive TT, IMHO.

I'll have to check out your store next time I'm in your neighborhood. Probably not before next summer, though. Gotta get a passport now to cross over the border. -kevin

BTW, I just bought a QL7 on e-pay, and I plan to do a solid oak plinth for it and sell the QL5. I'll post plenty of pics on the new project!

Hey Steve, On mine the two ground wires were: 1, for the motor assembly, and another for the tonearm, since the tonearm isn't connected to the metal motor assembly. You can try out the tonearm without a ground and see if it works. If you get a hum, you'll need to ground the arm. I would just use a wire attached to one of the mounting screws on the tonearm (from underneath). That's all the black wires do-- ground the tonearm and motor chassis to eliminate hum. Connect the ground wires to the back of your Preamp/receiver ground lug and you should be good to go.

Hey Folks, I need about 100 old LP's for a decorating project in my man cave. Any ideas where I can get a boatload of 'em for next to nothing? I don't want to have to spend a lot of money on thrift store or garage sale items, since they don't need to be playable. Any and all ideas will be greatly appreciated! Thanks a bunch! -- Kevin

I'm getting ready to upgrade my K-horns with Crite's cast woofers, ct125 tweeters, and possibly wooden tratrix mids. I was wondering what wire should I use to connect everything? I'm not trying to open up a can of worms debate about zip cord vs. boutique cable or anything, just want to know what other people have used to re-wire their speakers with. Thanks, kevin.

I love my Shanling T-100 to death!

Does anyone besides me think it is really, really wrong for our Government to give the general public money to buy a foreign car? Just how does that boost our economy in the long run? I understand that if the car was built in the U.S. the factory worker would get paid, but all the profits go back to the mother country of the company-either Japan or Korea for the most part. I don't know about the rest of you, but I think that since the Government owns a good chunk of G.M. and Chrysler, they would want Americans to buy American cars and keep the money stateside. I know, I'm just another spoiled G.M. worker who isn't in touch with reality. Our economy is doing fine...

Just a coincidetal side note: That tow truck is a GM 560 series that I built in the Flint Truck Assembly Plant. We ran the last one on July 31, and GM has no plans to build them anymore. That makes the truck a sorta collector's item, don'tcha think? -kevin

Was it Hey Jude?

here's another sourceSpeaker Grill Cloth Fabric

Rustoleum Apple Red spray and a couple coats of gloss urethane on top. It's not that nice up close, I'll probably re-do in the future. I'm also going to make one from solid oak planks, to match my K-horns. -Kevin

Hi Pat, I made the plinth from 3/4 inch 5 ply birch plywood. It is 3 layers thick, with each layer oriented about 45 degrees from the other layers so the plies are not all aligned the same. I used 5 ply instead of 11 or 13 ply because I was concerned with better absorbtion properties rather than the rigidity of the added plies. (OK, it costs half as much also) I admit that I "borrowed" the design idea from a John Masangkay designed turntable he did with an AR turntable, featured in Vinyl Nirvana's web page The web owner,Dave, is a well respected member of this community.AR Turntable Vinyl Nirvana Acoustic Research Merrill Thorens For Sale. I actually bought an AR turntable to do this project, but I decided that my JVC was a much better cannidate. I plan on doing some more of these and possibly selling them to help pay for my audio addiction!

The Man Cave system

another view showing the tonearm mounting surface lowered .75 inch.

New, improved plinth. More adjustment for VTA, better damped, sounds awesome!

I got tired of looking at my old JVC QL-5 turntable, with the Signet TK-50 tonearm. This turntable performs really well, so I thought I'd upgrade the looks instead of getting rid of it. Here's the old plinth.

I was wondering if anyone might have a pair of 1 inch trachorns that they aren't using or maybe replacing with Greg's 2 inch horns. I'm a little short on money, so I can't swing buying the 2 inchers from Greg at this time, but I would like to try the 1 inchers. If someone could even send me some plans on building some myself, I'd be willing give that a shot. I have a bit of spare audio equipment laying around if someone would like to trade/barter also. Thanks in advance, Kevin

Some say that you don't need corners after doing this, some say you do. My experience in my room is that they sound better in the corner than out. But it may just be my room. I don't think you can lose by doing this mod.

Hi Forum Members, I have a Teac X-1000R that I'm having problems with. I bought this unit used, and the belt needed replacing, which I did, along with the pinch rollers. Here is my problem-- I cannot get consistent tape tension from one direction to the other, or from the beginning of the tape to the center or end of the tape. I have done the obvious, such as cleaning and lube of the pinch roller linkage. I know there is a relationship between the pinch roller pressure stroke and the tape tension on both directions using the R-120 and R-220 pots. I have tried several different adjustments, but can't seem to get the tape to record/play consistently. It will start out fine, the I'll either gradually lose tension or get a loop of tape between the rollers. I cannot get the tension right no matter what I try. I have been advised that you cannot do this adjustment by "ear", and I'm willing to believe that. I do not own an occiloscope or test tapes or any other tension measuring devices to do this correctly. Am I overlooking and other related adjustments or do I simply need to send it out for professional help? Is there anyone out there I can send it to that can adjust it to factory specs? It is a really nice piece of equipment and I would love to get it working properly. Thanks in advance for your help! -Kevin

I had my knuckles smacked in First grade for using my left hand. That was back in 1960. I'm still left handed though! Bill Clinton and I are both left handed and both born on Aug. 19th. Should I run for President, or maybe just chase interns? kevin

What I've gathered, the most significant thing is the heads. I've read that the X-2000R heads are much more durable and last far longer than the X1000R. There are some other electronic bells and whistles on the X-2000R that are not on the X1000R. I recently bought a nice used X1000R, and am now experiencing some problems with tape transport, and this seems to be a fairly common problem with this dual-capstan belt driven setup. I believe both the 2000 and 1000 series use the same capstan drive system. The X2000R sells for far more than a X1000R on e-Bay, and I believe it would be worth putting the money into repairing it. Just my 2 cents.