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Islander

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Islander last won the day on June 30

Islander had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vancouver Island, BC, Canada
  • Interests
    Audio, Music, Photography
  • My System
    402/K-691 JubScala IIs + Paradigm Seismic 110 x 2, powered by Yamaha MX-D1 x 2, EQ'd by Electro-Voice Dx38, controlled by Yamaha RX-A2060, fed by Technics SL-1210M5G, Panasonic DMP-UB900 & Yamaha DVD-S550

    6.2 Surround: above plus Belle (centre front), La Scalas (left and right surround), Heresy III (centre rear)

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  1. I don't think it's possible to fully delete posts, so most of us type "Sorry, double post", or just leave a dot (.) when it happens, or when you have second thoughts about your post and would like it to disappear. It is easy to double post sometimes, so it has happened to many of us. Second thoughts, too.
  2. The newer type capacitors may well be better than the ones that went into La Scalas in the Seventies. In my speakers, I’m guessing the exact values were hard to find at the time, so in one position, there were three tin cans, stacked one atop the next, and wired together, to add up to the right number. The problem is that the only external sign of failure that I’m aware of is oil leaking. Beyond that, a test for Equivalent Series Resistance (ESR) is what’s needed. If the value is too high, the capacitor is scrap. However, that test requires a meter that the average audio fan doesn’t have, so that’s why most of us go by the age of the speakers. It turned out to be right in the case of my speakers, but YMMV. As for “upgrading”, which some think would be a good idea, because the components in our speakers are sometimes not the best available, throwing in a pair of better/more expensive woofers, for example, can often result in disappointment. PWK was a great audio engineer, in many ways, and one of them was in not wasting any money. If he could find a decent quality part that was very consistent in performance, and available in the quantities he needed, maybe for years, he’d use it and design the rest of the speaker to work in harmony with it. That way, he could achieve the performance he wanted, and still keep parts costs low. Some people try to say that, based on the parts list, these speakers should sell for less, but the parts list doesn’t include the engineering time and talent that went into making the speakers what they are. These are not knockoffs, copies that include only the hardware that you see. They’re the original item, and every Heritage Series speaker includes some of the genius that PWK brought to the job every day. That’s priceless.
  3. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ See what I meant about a rabbit hole? ^^^^^^^^^^^ BTW, the mid driver is called the squawker. Woofer, squawker, tweeter. That term isn’t widely used anymore, for reasons I don’t understand, but it’s still used happily among Klipsch fans.
  4. I was surprised to see so many recommendations to attach your TV to the wall, in order to get it back a bit. Wouldn’t it be much easier and less expensive to just move the speakers ahead 4”-6”? Years ago, I read that it’s very important for the speakers to “see” each other. This means that between the speakers, there should be nothing ahead of a line between the front of one speaker and the front of the other speaker. I’ve always set up my systems with this in mind, generally by making sure the TV and the electronics stack were fairly close to the front wall (the wall behind the front speakers), and then placing the La Scalas for smoothest bass response. The Scalas are 24” deep and the La Scala IIs are 25” deep, so it’s pretty easy to have them sitting ahead of everything between them, while keeping them within 6” from the front wall. As for sound absorption, keep in mind that the different wavelengths of sound make a big difference in what gets absorbed. With a high frequency sound, the wavelength might be only an inch long, so an inch of absorption material could absorb much of it. With a deep bass note, its wavelength could be 10, 20, or 30 feet long, so a sound wave like that would not even “notice” a 1” sound absorbing panel or comforter. A thin blanket is even less effective. On the subject of sound absorbing materials, there’s an inexpensive DIY way to make sound absorbing panels. Just take or make a frame of the appropriate size, and use old towels, neatly folded with a minimum of air gaps. I read this a couple of years ago, so I’ve forgotten exactly how the guy secured the towels to the frames, but he may have used thread or thin wire. The guy describing this in an audio magazine used a meter to check the relative effectiveness of various materials, and the tightly packed towels were as effective as any of the store-bought materials. The top layer can even be dyed or painted to match or accent the decor of the room.
  5. Congrats on your La Scalas, and welcome to the Forum! I wouldn’t worry about your crossovers for the time being. 1992 is not new, but not ancient either. It would be a good idea to listen to your speakers for a few months without changing anything, so you get completely familiar with their sound. Then, when you do decide to change something, you’ll be better able to decide if you made an improvement, or just a difference. As for the water spot, I’d try gentle rubbing, with a very slightly damp cloth. My dad once left a cold drippy pop can on the top of one of my 1974 Birch Black La Scalas. I wasn’t pleased, but I got to work, and in about half and hour the round mark was gone. The can had been there for less than 24 hours, which may have helped. In a few months, it would be good to consider getting new capacitors for your crossovers. The rest of the parts seem to last indefinitely. While you’re shopping, better tweeters are available. Crites is the most popular place to get update parts (they’re very knowledgeable about Klipsch speakers, because that’s their specialty, and they’re friendly and helpful, too). There’s another site for caps that Randy knows well and will probably mention. Now that I think about it, my 1974 Scalas were 32 years old when I got them, and yours are 29 years old, so new caps will improve the sound. At that time (2006), I tested the 32-year-old K77 tweeters for output, using a Radio Shack sound level meter, and found a 2-3 dB imbalance between them. I figured that couldn’t be good, so I ordered a pair of Crites CT125 tweeters when I ordered the capacitor kits, which also come with little plastic saddles and zip-ties. Wanting to know which upgrade did what to the sound, I changed the caps first, and was quite pleased with the improved power and clarity. A few days later, after I got a bit familiar with the sound, in went the new tweeters. Once again, clearly improved sound. BTW, the output difference with the Crites tweeters was only about 1/2 dB. It was also a bit lower than the output of the K-77s, for an impression of stronger bass. Now they also have have CT120 tweeters, which are said to be even better than the CT125s. Those two updates should make your good speakers sound better. After that, the mods/updates/upgrades start getting more complicated and more expensive. I’d stay away from that particular rabbit hole for a long time, maybe years. Happy listening!
  6. Meanwhile, I just have to be content with listening to my Palladiums. Well, you’re just roughing it, aren’t you? I’m kidding, of course, and I’m sure you are, too, but sometimes it seems like most of the grumbles I hear on the Forum are great examples of First World problems. Sometimes we forget just how lucky we are to have high performance Klipsch speakers to hear our music through. Happy listening, everyone!
  7. "Once removed? Well, that makes all the difference, right?" Unfortunately, his fans didn't think so.
  8. Yes, that's the right kind of material, but you'll want to wait until you get at least one panel off before you order any, so you can see the thickness and width that the factory used to seal the panels. As you can see, it comes in quite a wide range of widths and thicknesses. For best adhesion, you should use alcohol to clean away all the sticky glue residue. 70% or 99% Isopropyl alcohol should be equally good. You just want to get the glue area as clean as possible. That rubbing alcohol is also great for cleaning connectors and cable ends before attaching connectors to them.
  9. I’d suggest using a very wide paint scraper to get the woofer access panels off. The reason to use that is to reduce the chances of doing damage to the panels. A screwdriver is narrow and will allow you to apply a lot of force to a very small area of the plywood panel. Wood is much softer than metal, so it’s very easy to put in deep marks that will have you swearing. A scraper is wide, up to 4”/100 mm, so the force is spread over a larger area. This means that, hopefully, you’ll get the panels to come off with little or no damage. You could even use 2 scrapers, but get the stiff ones. The really bendy scrapers are just annoying and are more likely to mark up your panels. Don’t forget to buy some new weatherstrip (the closed-cell type that doesn’t breathe, because you don’t want any air leaks. It’s usually black. The white stuff usually breathes and is useless in this application.) to seal the panels back on, because the old weatherstrip is probably falling apart and needing to be replaced completely. Good luck!
  10. We’re all boneheads here, but only one is the Chief Bonehead. We are the Boneheads who listen, who are glad that the Chief Bonehead makes sure that the Klipsch legend continues, with improvements and upgrades when possible and sensible. The Chief is the Bonehead who designs and tests what we listen to, and we’re very glad for that.
  11. That's a pretty long clip. This clip is just one song, and it features Megurine Luka, who is patterned after an adult woman, not a young teenager like Hatsune Miku. Also, it's rare for a pop song to refer to the inclination of Earth's axis. Having a projection as a front person has lots of advantages over a live singer. The projection never shows up late or drunk, you can resize her to suit the venue, like life size for a club, or a bit gigantic for an arena, for example., and she doesn't need her own hotel room. She can stay in the van, or, for more security, she can stay on the floor of the musicians' room.
  12. Yes, the Fortés have a reputation for great bass. I can’t say the same thing about the La Scalas. The LS2s have more and better bass than the originals, but it still starts to roll off at 100 Hz, and it’s down noticeably by 60, so it’s more than just very deep organ music that’s affected when my subs are dormant.
  13. In theory, Pure Direct should sound better, but that mode disables the subwoofers, so I rarely use it for listening to music, instead mostly just for when I won’t be listening for at least a few hours. Instead, I normally use Straight mode, which is also strictly 2-channel with no processing of the signal. Yes, the display is on, and some unneeded circuits might be on, but it sounds better to me than PD.
  14. I was just thinking about that, and I’ve been thinking about it for a few months. However, my thinking is going the other way. Now, I listen to the music, not to how the system sounds. I don’t select the music that often, maybe a few times a week. The rest of the time, I listen to a handful of stations on Net Radio. I’ve found some stations that have better taste than I have, so I get to listen to new and interesting music that way. The main thing is that now I have confidence that when I roll up the volume to listening level (I leave it on all the time now, just rolling down the volume very low when I go to bed or go out. I was leaving the amps on all the time, as per recommendation from a Yamaha rep, but he said that with receivers, the issue is falling brightness of the display if it’s on all the time. The simple workaround for that is to switch to Pure Direct, which shuts down everything not needed for 2-channel sound production, in an effort to eliminate any kind of interference or noise from unused circuits. This includes all video circuits, all DSP or other processing circuits, and the display. It goes dark, and stays dark until you adjust the volume or change the input, when it brightens momentarily to let you see what’s happening, then goes dark again.), the music will sound great. Sure, I still have to get around to tweaking the processor a bit to suit the new drivers, and the subs need to be dialled in to the room, but even so, the music sounds great. That’s what matters, right? I no longer hear that little voice trying to speak up over the music, saying “Sure that sounds okay, but if you do this, that or the other (or worse, this, that, and the other), it will sound so much better.” Now, I just hear a voice sometimes that says, “That’s a great song. Turn it up!”
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