Manuel Delaflor

quote: Originally posted by mdeneen: So, all you have to do is pickup a nice tube integrated like a Fisher/Scott/EICO/Dynaco for $150 and simply add the sub-out ports. Take you ten minutes. You'll be in nirvana before you know it. You could even get very clever and put a level control on the sub out! And, you can tune the amp then to put out more power above the sub-level---Hmmmmm? Good idea! OK! You have convinced me! I will start to seek for those integrated. Let me see if I understood you. With a gain control in the sub out, I will be able to have only one gain control for the hole system? I wonder this because my actual SS amp doesn't have a sub out, I use the "tape out" signals to feed my sub. But I find anoying that I have to manually recalibrate the volume from the sub every time I change the main volume... Edit: I re-read your post, what you are saying is that you can redirect more power to other frequencies? Sounds interesting! This message has been edited by Manuel on 03-07-2002 at 10:10 AM

And back to business... I still think that SPL ratings are superior to wattage ones. I guess this is not as good idea as it appears to me, since nobody commented my post!

quote: Originally posted by TheEAR: Why do some buy sports cars capable of 180+ MPH? Because they can,not they will EVER use them at these speeds. Yes, and still it is nonsense, at least in USA. I like very much to drive my car and my motorcycle to their limits (210kmph and 277kmph). I will never understand why on earth americans buy Ferraris or Porsches when they can't enjoy them? All they can do is 1/4 of mile "races". This message has been edited by Manuel on 03-07-2002 at 09:24 AM

In my opinion wattage ratings are *almost* meaningless. I think we need SPL numbers given in full range and stated at +/- dB. For example, in the case of an amplifier, those numbers should say something like this: "Our amplifier can put 110dB at one meter from 20Hz to 20Khz at +/-5dB on a speaker with 88dB of sensibility". With this system it would be irrelevant if the amplifier have 200watts RMS at 1Khz or full bandwith, or 10,000watts PMPO.

What do you think about this?: http://www.adireaudio.com/home_audio/Electronics/wave_dt.htm What I really want is an integrated two channel with a sub out... and cheap! Does this exists?

I learned this the hard way ears, and I can tell you that I will NEVER do it again! Well... at least Im learning a lot. This message has been edited by Manuel on 03-05-2002 at 11:55 PM

Welcome back!

Thanks Malcolm, I will find out if I can find it in here. mdeneen, I was doing SPL tests with some RTA software....

Where can I buy a new tweeter or a diaphragm for a Heresy? Klipsch used to have that info in the old site, but now I can't find it!

When adding another identical sub to the one you already have, what is the dB increment? I forgot it! Is it 3dB or 6dB? And is this for all frequencies? how to avoid cancelations for certain frequencies? etc.

quote: Originally posted by Klipschguy: However, as stated earlier, the tweeers in my Herseys, before the modification, were TWICE as loud as the squawker when putting my ear alternately from driver to driver (on any decent recording, and this fact is independent of the room acoustics). Also, they sounded too bright in the same room with with my lovely sounding Cornwalls - so I really don't think it's a room problem. Klipschguy Nope, it appears to be a problem in your Heresy's. But I wonder if it is only in yours? I have a pair, and by any means (if I do what you did) I find the tweeter to be much louder than the mid... in fact, I could say that im my case the mid is a bit stronger! edit: I just realiced that this is an old thread, so perhaps my comment is not relevant anymore! This message has been edited by Manuel on 03-05-2002 at 10:19 AM

quote: Originally posted by Klewless: "So the bright sound is largely the lack of low bass, which can be restored with a good subwoofer these days." "Also over the years the stereo dealers and people I knew back when all stated that it was Paul's contention that if the speakers sounded too bright, then fix the room because the speakers were acoustically correct by design." Totally agreed. Adding a sub will "balance" the sound and the "brightness" will be gone. Its more a matter of subjective appreciation than an objective fact.

quote: Originally posted by swede: "I even recently had a pair of Avantgarde Duo's loaned to me by a good audio salon buddy." "My system is: two inverted Heresy II's per side united with a Velodyne ULD-18 2 updated sub. For pre and power I use audioresearch." "What I am saying is: The Klipsch Heresy II's are used by more recording studios than any other name brand. Why? They are accurate! What was recorded sounds the same when listening." Im curious in your opinion of the Avantgarde's, how do they sound compared to Klipsch Heritage's?? What do you mean by "inverted" Heresy's? I have to tell that I also think that Heresy's are accurate and not "bright", but "alive". Perhaps some speakers are indeed brighter, and perhaps the ones who think they are bright just happend to be more sensitive to certain frequencies. For me only Horn speakers can transmit the micro and macrodynamics of the live music. "Normal" drivers tend to distort because the effort needed to produce hi SPL's, and to me they will always "compress" the sound and will make the music sound "muddy".

quote: Originally posted by kenratboy: If I cannot hear it from the sub, its too low. Sorry to disagree. But with this methodology you could be hearing 20Hz tones 10dB below 30Hz tones. So, the sub will not be playing 20Hz at good levels. You need an RTA coupled to a calibrated mic to really know which tones are played at a flat response. Now, if you feel really good with only your hearing, then I suggest you to use music with lots of power in the lower 20's, and then wait for them to happen and hear if the power you are getting is similar to the 30's or 40's. In other words, by isolating frequencies you are not experiencing the real life potential of the sub.

quote: Originally posted by boa12: funny thing about the hgs is the reviews really vary... I tend to think that this topic (as well as many others in the world of audiophiles) is kind a subjective thing... I think there is not such thing as a "fast" sub, the frequencies are played or not... there is no way to play them slow or fast, the term (for me) means more like resonances than speed.

Mark, I see two paths, a hard one and an easy one. The easy is to just add a sub, like a Sunfire (which by the way produce enormous amounts of bass from a REALLY SMALL box, but that's another story). The other way is to make new cabinets for your Heresy's, of course you need lots of calculations to do it right, but in principle is possible. I think the answer lies in the time and dedication you can give to your needs.

quote: Originally posted by Q-Man: I read a review , that I think that I found on the SVS website or on the Hometheaterhifi.com site. This review has be pondering over which sub might be the best one to use with Klipschorns. Do you have the link for that review? sounds interesting!

quote: Originally posted by CharlieTuna: What are people using to measure frequencies? Measuring hardware? Test tones? My Yamaha DSP-A1 will generate test tones. Is using this and listening good enough? If you already can make the tones the next step would be to buy an SPL meter. Radio Shack sells one, and its cheap. The next setp would involve an RTA software (like Spectralab or ETF) and a calibrated mic to do more professional and accurate tests.

quote: Originally posted by kenratboy: Boards of Canada recordings have tracks that go into the 10's and 20's Hz. There is one song, a little ambiant piece, that has a 18-22Hz RUMBLE that makes it feel like you are at the ocean with waves coming in. What's the name of the song? Who plays it? And I have to tell you that your image about the ocean is really good! hmm... I wonder, how low does the ocean sound??

quote: Originally posted by TheEAR: The HGS18 gives me a hint...not near the 16Hz power I know, I listened to this very sub with some Bach, that was a couple of years ago and I thought was really impressive... Of course, now that I know there are "lower subs" out there... what I want to do is to hear it again with a couple of SVS Ultras... This message has been edited by Manuel on 02-28-2002 at 12:47 PM

Yes, you may be right. I forgot that this was intented for larger than home applications, and perhaps their specs reflect that. But I still think it would be useful to see some numbers.

quote: Originally posted by CarlV: I would have to say that this sub is right on par with my SVS 16-46 all they way to 20 hz probably. I didn't take any measurements but this sub rocks. It should be interesting to see some numbers, the pdf says its 10dB down already at 30Hz, so it should be (guessing) at least another 2dB or 3dB lower at 20Hz.

My cable is better than your cable.

Leok, I have a Technics "New Class A" amplifier, for what I understand it is a real Class A on the first watts and then passes to a Class B. Do you know something about this?

As theears says, ideally, should be avoided. Still in the real life I find the reason to have one is to get rid of room reflections. A sub will have a peak frequency, as theears said, lower cost subs will have this peak anywhere between 60 to 120Hz. One way to avoid that is to set the crossover to the lowest. But there are also room reinforcements and null points for some frequiencies, this could "color" the bass and give "one bass note" results. Say that in your listening possition the room reinforce around 30Hz, giving you a dB peak at that frequencies but at the same time lowering the 40's by several dB's. In this case a parametric equalizer can be used to try to reach a flat response.