jason str
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Posts posted by jason str
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Yes but its not reinforced and meant to withold the stress of an occupant like the seat belt anchor.
Just for safety's sake.
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Add a proper sub to match your mains if you need deeper bass.
You could also EQ or lengthen the ports but a sub would be best.
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Klipsch may still stock a recone kit for the passive, give them a call.
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Both offer plenty of bass though not the same sound.
Don't underestimate the K-48 cast frame woofer, it likes power & handles it well.
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Make sure you use grade 5 or better bolts & hardware to secure as cheap bolts will shear right off under heavy force.
You may even want to drill through the floorpan and use a big washer or plate assuming its clear under the floorpan, keep in mind the stock seat attachment is only made to hold a lightweight car seat in an accident.
Looks like a nice project.
My son is the same way, he runs 2 high end 10's and can hear him coming from a mile away, literally.
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Great setup you have there dtel, if you were closer i would come by and check it out.
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Great starter set for a small apartment.
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Dosent really matter, the cabinet is very well braced when built correctly.
Void free, 4-5 ply & no thin veneer will be best.
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nice... I love that speaker, when are they due for delivery?
What is the pricing for these things? Is the pro line much more expensive than the palladium line?
I'm guessing they are less expensive than the palladium
Not sure on date yet. Hope to know soon
The price is all over the place depending who you talk too. I sent out a ton of emails to different places. I went with the best price. The next best price was $1,000 more lol.
Youth is right palladium cost more than these. With the pro line your paying for performance and not so much for looks.
I have asked multiple times to become a Klipsch seller & got totally brushed off by the representative.
It would be nice to have more sales options.
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Yes, 8" would be the driver depth.
Double 15" cabinet won't work, you would need to build 2 cabinets.
24" cabinet of either version would be a good choice.
Quality Baltic Birch, Auraco 5 ply or any quality 4-5 ply void free 1/2" plywood is what you will need, nothing with a thin outer veneer.
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Not the best tool for the job but it will work in the F-20 also.
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The K-33-E is just close enough in spec to work in a THT with a 100 watt or so amp as long as its under 8" deep.
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Happy Birthday to all, don't forget to send me out a piece of cake.
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Good album to showcase the LaScala, ship them out your new horn loaded subwoofer to make the the night more memorable.
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Maybe you could find a used driver for it, if not just sell it for parts.
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Was it listed that way ?
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The wire you listed is rated for in wall use, it dosent matter what color the jacket is.
Monster wire is nothing special, its decent copper wire.
You could get cheaper wire but after you pay for shipping price would be near the same.
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Price seems fair and its the right cable for behind the wall installs.
Maybe make a offer & save a few more dollars.
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RAID 10 would be another great option.
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I would take the Chorus II's over the KLF's any day of the week. The KLF's mid sounds a little harsh to me and you don't have to worry as much about cabinet construction with the Chorus. I also like the bass better with the Chorus. I would agree that the bass is little tighter with the KLF's, but it sounds thinner and doesn't hit with as much authority. The KLF's are great all around speakers, just not equal to a Chorus IMO.
two twelve inch woofers will push the equivalent of close to 1.5 times a fifteen inch woofer. The Chorus and the KLF both use the same mid driver. The horn on the KLF is a very wide band horn but it is very thin walled. The KLF mid horn responds well to some structural reinforcement and damping as it can be made to vibrate when the woofers play loud. The KLF do play lower than either Chorus do. The real baffle of the Chorus is nor braced in any way and can vibrate enough to actually slap the mid driver. The KLF cabinet panels are smaller and will vibrate at higher frequencies that those of the Chorus.
Since the OP has a pair of Chorus ll and is looking for some additional I would like to offer a suggestion that might just provide the added bass and cost a few dollars at most. All that needs to be done is to glue 2.5 ounces of steel washers (two large ones) on to the centre of the passive. If you don't like it simply remove the washers. I came up with this mod originally on a pair of Quartet then on a pair of Forte ll. A small amount of five minute epoxy works well to bond the washers together and to fix the combined washers to the passive. Four or five small dots works very well and makes them easy to remove if desired. Best regards Moray James.
The Chorus II & KLF 30 do not share the same midrange driver, the Chorus II uses the K- 61 with a phenolic diaphragm & the KLF 30 uses the K-52 with a Polymer diaphragm.
Even with a 3/4" bucking magnet on the back of the the K-61 the driver never vibrates near to slapping the back of the cabinet.
Adding weight to your passives is a risky move if you like your music loud, i tore a passive from the frame once, adding weight to the passive will increase the risk of damage.
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4-8 Gb of memory is plenty for almost any application using Windows Vista or newer.
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3 hard drive RAID 5 would be my choice.
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Keep the Chorus II's.
Experiment with moving the speakers to and from your back wall or corners to adjust your bass.
Update your crossovers if they are still factory units.
Add a proper sub if you are still not satisfied, KLF 30's would be a downgrade in my opinion.
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The SSD will be your best upgrade by a longshot.
Video card if you play the latest graphic intensive games.
8 Gb of memory is plenty, 8 more will make no difference in normal usage.
Waiting for your hard drive to find something sucks.
Here is a chart to determine best babg for your buck. Passmark link
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Re-veneering Belles
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
Probably not the best project to learn how to do veneer.
However if you must, sand & bondo every surface smooth.
Poly the cabinet so the veneer dosent peel.
Cut your veneer sheets to size, sand smooth & install then finish with whatever finish you like.