jason str
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Posts posted by jason str
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Nice looking truck.
I had problems in the past also, when i lived in Cicero i had 2 cars stolen & 1 battery.
Whats funny is one was a green hornet wagon with a 3 speed manual column shift and the linkage would pop off frequently at stoplights so you would have to get out, open the hood and reaffix the linkage. Why they wanted that toilet is anybodys guess. The 84 Cutlass was mint until i got it back with a bald rear tire, slipping tranny & tore up steering column. It was found stting on Cermack not too far from the house.
Glad things worked out for you without too much hastle.
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<<Efficient is right, it does not take much power to get the house rockin.
When i recommend a 50-100 watt amp i get strange looks.
Most will never use 25 watts unless destroying the house is the plan.>>
I have had this problem with people for over 40 years. Horn subs are 10-20 db more efficient than those itty bitty cubes with holes in them. So 25 watts in a THT puts out as much sound with WAY less distortion than a DR sub with 250-2,500 Watt, and you won't smoke the voice coil or tear up the cone doing it (or create 40% harmonic distortion in the process).
I totaly agree, horns rule.
My first time hearing the THT my first thought was so that's what a bass guitar supposed to sound like. You hear the string and not the woofers version of what it thinks the string should sound like, everything else is just icing on the cake.
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How are you liking the pair of table tubas with the LaScalas?
I like it very much, digs deep and very musical sound. Not a matched pair though, one has a 10" and the other one a high output 8.
Right now I'm really just experimenting with different things.
Good to test them out anyways before selling them just to be sure I'm producing quality stuff + I'm a beleiver of breaking in drivers.
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how much are they?
I was wondering the same thing.
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How is a horn loaded sub better than an IB, ported or sealed enclosure? Thanks for the ideas.
Lower distortion.
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Very nice, Marantz receivers are hard to beat for a nice starter system. I remember my father unboxing his 2265 when i was a kid.
The downside is i remember easily bottoming out his Altec Valencia's woofers, something the old Fisher could never accomplish.
I want one for my workshop, i think they sound better than my old Pioneer SX-780 does.
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I see in your sig you modded your Klipsch Sub 12 with a Dayton Ultimax 12 driver. Did you remove the port and seal the cabinet ? That driver needs a much bigger cabinet if its still ported.
I have heard receivers that sound better than separates and vice versa.
You have nothing to lose except some hard earned cash trying out an external amp, if nothing else it will take the strain off your receiver's power supply.
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All these posts in the garage sale section and not one garage for sale.
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You can load the THT using your wall, floor, ceiling or corner, the mouth of the horn should be approximately 18" away from the surface for best results.
I ran mine facing me directly into my listening position and it sounded great.
Wall, corner, ceiling or floor loading will give more volume but its really not needed with the output the THT produces.
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Doing more experimentation with these subs i connected two 16" Table Tuba's in series to my 240 watt dayton amp and what a difference it made to the bottom end.
No more having to constantly adjust the volume & frequency settings to get it to sound right (maybe im just overly picky).
2 smaller subs are easier to place too.
Good news, but I think its funny that two table tubas are "2 smaller subs."
I don't own any small speakers, my smallest ones are some old school 4 ways in the garage.
If i could get the same sound out of some "little cubes" and a "Bass module" as i do my La Scala's and a horn sub i would do it in a heartbeat.
1 long style Table Tuba can be made as small as a 12x15 footprint, not too bad if height's not an issue.
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CPUID hardware monitor is another one.
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Doing more experimentation with these subs i connected two 16" Table Tuba's in series to my 240 watt dayton amp and what a difference it made to the bottom end.
No more having to constantly adjust the volume & frequency settings to get it to sound right (maybe im just overly picky).
2 smaller subs are easier to place too.
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I have been using Artic Silver 5 thermal paste for some time now, i recommend using it. Not expensive either, one tube will cover many CPU's.
So I infer that the thermostat sensor is on the heat sink.
The thermostat is not on the heatsink, at least i have never seen one located there.
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Replacing old CPU paste is a must with older computers, it turns into a cake like substance with age and looses its ability to transfer heat.
What i use to clean my CPU & heatsink is an old T-shirt and Everclear, it works good and dries quickly.
Just a small pea sized drop of paste is all you need between your CPU & heatsink.
What i used to do when i was into heavy overclocking is sand the CPU & heatsing flat to create more surface area for heat transfer, most CPU's have a slight convex shape to them.
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My vote would be to go with a fully horn loaded system if you want an upgrade.
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An amp sitting idle should not overheat.
I highly doubt running an amplifier full time will shorten its lifespan except maybe for the fan bearings.
If the power supply is rated at 8 or so amps or under you should be fine using the 18 gauge wire. You can always upgrade the cord at a later time if it worries you.
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What is the amperage rating of the amp ?
Nothing wrong with leaving it on besides an increase of your electric bill & having to clean the fan more often if its equiped with one.
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http://store.acrytech.com/Speaker-Cabinet-Coatings/
Scroll down and read. I don't get what everyone primes still for?
Primer will hide bondo patches better than a coat of Duratex alone allowing a better looking finish without having to apply 2 coats.
Primer will also show defects in surface that still need attention before you topcoat.
Primer is cheap why not use it, its made to adhere your topcoat to surface material.
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I believe I have your other set...
...Happy New YearBill
I remember, you bought the Chorus II's with the bucking magnets.
Hope they are serving you well.
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Black tinted primer works good as a base for Duratex.
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Simply Stereo is where i go also.
Its nice to be able to A/B different speakers with the touch of a button + they carry a nice selection of Klipsch products among other things.
In fact i purchased my current pair of Chorus II's from them back when they were still available.
I was looking for a preamp there but the selection was thin, i ended up picking up a used NAD from C-list and am very happy with it.
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I auditioned the Klipsch Heratige lineup not too long ago, i thought the Cornwall III sounded better than any other Cornwall i ever heard.
Once again i thought the La Scala with a good subwoofer sounded much better than the Klipschorn.
The Klipschorn midbass is missing and sounds off where the La Scala shines in comparison.
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Sony's ES products are very good but you got to pay the premium.
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Woofer specs say 89dB woofer and dueling voice coils.
Probably not a winner.Good parts speaker if everything works.
...Happy New Year
Probably not a winner.
What cookware do you use
in Lounge
Posted
I use stainless myself, works great until you burn somehing on it.
Also have one cast iron skillet that is used often, once you break them in it makes for a nice pan.