STL

Sounds like a pretty lame excuse to me. Would it really be that hard/costly to make a new mold (using a K-600 lens)?

On 8/19/2005 1:23:52 PM rplace wrote: STL, In a perfect world he would have all three in the front the same, but that is not always possible. An academy is an excellent choice for center between the Forte II. I don't doubt that the Academy is a worthy center, but a "homegrown" speaker that untilizes the same mid and high horns as the mains would be surperior.

I think they will work fine. What is most important is that all three front channels match as best as possible. It is those speakers that are radiating sound directly to your ears. The better they match the better chance at having a total seamless front soundstage. So your next project needs to be replacing that Academy. With rears you are only hearing reflected sound so timbre matching isn't quite as important.

Actually a modded KG5.5 would be a ultimate/perfect match for KG5.5, KG5.2, KG4.5, or KG4.2 mains -- but not really so good for the larger heritage stuff. It might work pretty well, but then again it might not be as good as a smaller Academy. IMO for something to be called an "ultimate center" for the heritage stuff, it must use a midrange horn.

Changing the shape but keeping the internal volume the same shouldn't be a problem, as long as you don't try to make it too shallow. What kind of dimensions are you talking about? BTW, you can make the cabinets with slightly less volume but you will need to change the ports. Speaking of ports, you might want to consider going to two ports instead of just one if you plan to vent it out the front. I can calculate that for you -- just let me know. I built a custom center for my KG5.5s, but I didn't want it to be so tall so I used four 6.5" (Klipsch) woofers instead of the two 10s. I am using a K-85-K horn (just like the one in my KG5.5s) Just right click on my avatar and do a "view image" for a better look. To view pics of my other custom creations see my System Profile.

redtop, So you're saying you're going to have about 12" from the back your your KLF-30 to wall? If so, that is more than enough. Like I said in an earlier post, the rule oh thumb is to have at least the distance that equates to twice (exit) diameter of the port (but it's sometimes possible to get away with up to half that). With you're setup your distance is over three times the diameter of the port -- so you're fine!

redtop, So exactly what are you wanting to do...go with a smaller enclosure? Or go with four smaller ports (instead of the two stock ones)? Or what?

On 8/10/2005 8:08:22 PM redtop wrote: There are two circular ports (side by side)that taper as they extend into the speaker cabinet. On the cabinet surface they are 3 3/4" in diameter and taper down to 2 1/2". The port extends 2 1/2" into the cabinet. Were you wanting me to come up with a new port setup for you or anything? If so, you need to tell me the internal dimensions of a KLF-30. Since it's known the the enclosure uses 3/4" MDF you can derive the measurements by measuring the outside -- but be sure to take into account the front baffle is recessed some. Since the KLF-30 already has two ports, I don't think you need to do anything special beyond moving them to the front baffle (and sealing the old holes).

I honestly don't think using a KLF-10 would get you much -- if anything. The most important part of having matching speakers comes down to the horns. Note your 20s and 30s use a midrange horn as well as a tweeter horn. Looking at the 10s you'll see they only use one horn -- just like the C7s. So if you really want an upgrade you at least need to use a 20, or for the best match use a 30.

On 8/16/2005 10:50:01 AM dragonfyr wrote: If you are going to do anything other then simply relocate an identical port (the location of which generally should not matter), then much more is needed to 'do it right'. I agree with one cavet. If one wants to use all the "stock" speakers but go to a smaller vented enclosure (from a larger vented one), this can be accomplised without needing any drivers specs. I've done this a couple times myself with good results. What I first do is determine the venting frequency of the stock enclsure. This can be do without woofer specs because the venting frequency is simply a function of the enclosure's internal volume, its port size, and its port length. I then design my new smaller enclosure so that it is vented to the same frequency as the stock enclosure. Be aware that there are limits and compromises re-sizing though. Smaller enclosures require: 1) longer ports if the using the same port diameter as stock, OR 2) smaller port diameters to keep the port length from getting too long. Option #1 is sometimes impossible because it is often hard to put a longer port in a smaller enclosure. Option #2 can be a compromise because smaller ports are somewhat less effecient and going too small can induce port noise. BTW, Unibox is a very useful and powerful program that is free. It's really just a macro that runs in Excel.

So which speakers are which? I would think the KLF-30s would be your front mains and the KLF-20s would be your rears. I don't see much advantage is going from a KLF-C7 to a KLF-10 since the 10 doesn't use the same horns as your 30s. If you cannot find a 30 (or 20 since they share the same horns) to modify, then I'd just stick with the C7. BTW, you're using just one C7 for your front center, right?

As mentioned before, when you redo the motorboard be sure to move the woofers "in" towards the center as far as you can. With doing that will create couple areas (between the woofers and horns) where there isn't much wood so you might want to add a brace behind it. Make the brace so it snugly contacts the motorbard (at the "thin" spot) as well as what would be the top and bottom of the center enclosure. You can screw the brace to the motorboard and then just glue it (using clamps) to the top and bottom.

redtop, I didn't realized the KLF-30 had two ports. Sounds like you're all set to just move them to the front like DrWho illustrated.

Sealing the enclosure and leaving the port on the back without enough room to breath are two differnt things. Without the T/S parameters, I cannot really know how the woofers will react. Some woofers can work in both sealed and vented enclosures, while other are made more specifically for sealed or vented applications. If the woofer is really optimized for a vented application, then you'll really lose a lot sealing it. Leaving the port on back and not giving it room to breath could very well lead to a lot of unwanted port noise. BTW I don't thin you really need 12-18 behind the port. A better rule of thumb is twice the internal diameter of the port (in all directions) but you might be able to get by with a little less.

You can move the ports to the front and/or go from 1 port to 2 smaller ports. I can help you determine the size and length of the two smaller port if you'd like. Leaving the enclosure sealed might work too (at the expense of low freq. output), but to truly know I would need the T/S parameters of the driver. If you want me to figure out the port stuff, let me know the following: 1) stock port diameter 2) stock port length 3) interior volume of the stock enclosure (or the interior measurements) Also note, the more accurate your measurements the more accurate my calculations will be.

What's this 780p everyone keeps talking about? I've never seen it listed as a HD standard. Do you really mean 720p?

You can find the answer on the Klipsch website: http://www.klipsch.com/product/product.aspx?cid=25 The SC-1 uses the same tweeter as your SF-2s, so it would be the best off-the-shelf option for you. The only thing better would be to modify (the motorboard on) a SF-2 to make it a center.

Tripp-Lite LC-1800

On 7/22/2005 5:08:52 PM Audible Nectar wrote: This list does look like (as mentioned above) that this was generated to be able to sell the customer the closest current Klipsch model to the customer's older speakers. EXACTLY, and that list was probably put some marketing type rather than someone that knows the meaning of timbre.

Right...although a correct list might also mention you could try an Academy as the center if your space is limited.

On 7/22/2005 4:15:51 PM IndyKlipschFan wrote: For some who have older forte, or tangent lines that want to get into HT, I thought the list was great. We will look at the other stuff as a case by case basis. I completely disagree with that statement. I highly suspect those suggestions for the older Forte and Tangent speakers are based almost solely on effeciency numbers and have almost nothing to do with timber match. I seriosuly doubt any reference series speaker are going to timber match any tanget or forte. I think the confusion (due to the many half-truth) that this list generates is why Klipsch no longer publishes it. I think using the information Klipsch has published on their website now and/or asking questions here (including searching for answers to similar questions already answered) will get one a MUCH MUCH more accurate "list" than what you posted.

IndyKlipschFan, Maybe your subwoofer is playing too high or others things in your room are resonating. I have my sub placed about 1' in front and about 4-5' to the right of where I sit, and I have never felt the explosions are localized from where the sub is located -- then again my subwoofer response is very flat and low. It also probably helps that I run all my other speakers on Large so they're playing the full spectrum. It doesn't help that my old Sony ES rec'r has a fixed crossover setting of 100Hz, but like I said my subwoofer (a 12" Acoustic Concepts DV12 in a custom 4 cubic foot sealed enclosure) is very flat and is truly tuned for the .1 (as in 5.1) frequencies. I don't have any experience with placing a HT subwoofer behind me, but I had plenty of cars with sub in the rear (but yes that's just music not HT). Maybe one just needs to make sure the subwoofer is in front of the listeners...

Leave it in the corner...placing in rack would be a bad idea (in many ways).

You don't have to put your subwoofer nearby at all! Frequencies below 80hz are "non-directional" meaning the human ear cannot determine where sounds that low come from. The KG-3.2 should have no problem at all playing down to 80hz.

You don't need 6.1 or 7.1 for such a small area. In fact many people don't realize that unless you have a really large room having 6.1 or 7.1 doesn't buy you much over a properly configured 5.1 system. Yes the KV1 and KG-3.2 do match up well. It seems silly that you now feel the need to replace the KG-3.2s because they don't have a 10" woofer. Obviously you were happy with them before so why worry now?