Bacek

My idea for edges was to protect them before gluing with masking tape, but I don't know if it will work.

I was wondering how to veneer LaScala internal parts. Did you veneered them before gluing? Any problems with excess of glue at the edges?

I'm not in US but in EU. I don't understand, you can send heavy speakers from Iran to US for 110 US but sending few components with less then half weight opposite way is about 500 USD? 1. Even if this price is correct if I'll add customs and taxes final price will be much higher than 810USD 2. I have already bought components for lascala/cornscala. Now I'll have to decide what to build.

800$ is great price for non US, local buy. If I had a chance to buy them I would go for it (even without rebuilding them for LaScalas).

For squaker you can use Selenium D-250-X. They need custom crossover (search the forum). You should be able to buy them in Europe (at least in Poland I can).

Shipping of K-55-M (bought from ebay) to Poland (also EU) was about 58 USD (plus 90USD for drivers). Bob ships woofers for about 135 USD (plus woofers price of course). So complex shipping would be about 190 USD (if you buy squaker from Bob I think it could be combined somehow). Of course there are some taxes and customs. For tweeter you can buy Eminence APT-150 (from Europe) to lower the price.

K-55M - EV K-55V,K-55X - Atlas

I was wondering if the problem with diy tractrix for higher frequencies/two way configuration was caused by too soft/absorbing surface?

Did you used wood dedicated undercoat/paints or a car dedicated?

Another PIC

I'm about to finish my first tracrtix 300Hz horn. As most of here I used bendable plywood for curved sides. I was my first contact with this material. It seems to be rather soft. So my concern is how to harden the surface to make it less absorbing for the sound wave. Any of you considered that? For a start I thought about hard floor varnish but I don't know if I'll be able to paint it black after.

http://www.fane-international.com/prod_details.aspx?pid=234 Looks like Tonsil but I'am not sure. Curves looks worse.

Maybe someone was making the bass reflex mod?

Don't know about europe but in Poland (I live about 30 miles from Tonsil HQ) it's about 40 % less then parts express price. But it also works other way. If I buy something in US my final price (shipment, customs and taxes) is about twice as much as item value. Anyway Tonsil still producess the drivers but I think horn adptors are doomed http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=290-539 .As I know they were not produced by Tonsil. Because horn throat and mount region is part of the phase plug. So if new version has longer mount then, I have not doubt, response will change. I have maded some experiments and removed phase plug (there where some versions without this plug), but result was bad. I'll try to add Klipsch k-73 style plug and see how this will behave.

Tonsil was in continuous troubles from late 90's. Usually one company died and another was formed and production continued. About half year ago ProTonsil lost court case from previous owner of the the factory premises on which company production was based. That lands where nationalized after World War II. Now they were back to the previous owner. After a while one of ProTonsil subcontractors Tonsil Meble took over their business and production is continued. Lately they gave new company proper name (Meble means Furnitures they where producing cases for ProTonsil speakers) Tonsil Audio. apt-80, apt-150 are still in production. http://www.tonsilaudio.com/GDWT9100FP.htm http://www.tonsilaudio.com/GDWT1219150.htm The drivers looks the same but they are not, 150 has slightly larger magnet. Currently Tonsil Audio condition looks better than any of their ancestors. I think that Eminece lost their patience for continually changing Tonsil ownership, and also they used opportunity to move production of the apt to china (lately I saw homepage of some china based company with new apt on it) Anyway if new product will be worse then old one then the old drivers and diaphragms are widely available in Poland so you can organize group buy.

Or you need to use full 2 resistor l-pad which doesn't change driver impedandce so no cap change is necesary.

Ok, I found it in the Photos section

Anyone?

> fameless For a start you have to answer the question: Why you want to go to biamping/active or anything else? What do you want to change or cure?

Get them, sell them, buy Forte and the rest for the music

Does any one have face picture of LS II with horns uncovered? Couln't find it anywhere.

For Heresy only if you make "three amping". For safety reason there could be a capacitor in series with tweeter and another one in sereries with midrange.

Check here http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/130178.aspx. According to schema if capacitor before autotrafo is: * 4uF - Type B * 3uF - Type B2 * 5uF - Type B3 Also by number of coils on board * 1 - Type B * 2 - Type B2 * 3 - Type B3

KG KG-2 KG-2.5 KG-3 KG 3.5 / 3.2 KG-4 KG 4.5 / 4.2 KG 5.2 KG 5.5

KLF KLF-10 KLF-20 KLF-30 KLF-C7