sootshe

....and ready for new cut to size panel to be fitted

.....and glue applied to original cabinet

This is the glue that I am using....."Green Glue" noiseproofing & adhesive. Sourced this from "Hawthorn Audio" who are specialists in OB speaker design.

Because the cabinets will be wider & deeper I have to do the same to the bass reflex cabs....Soot is overseeing everything!! Sorry....double post

Beacause these cabs will now be 1 & 1/2 inches wider & 3/4 inch deeper I also have to apply the same to the bass reflex cabs. These are going to be one heck of a solid cabinet. Soot is overseeing everything! Thats all for today....will start on the glueing & screwing on of the new panels tomorrow.

Cabinets are sanded down ready to accept the glue & the new panels

....and more screws

Finally got started on the refinishing of the LS. I'm going to put an additional layer of 3/4 ply on both sides & the rear & then veneer & trim the whole cabinet. Before I put the extra 3/4 ply on I thought I'd make doubly sure that the original cabinet is held together firmly & so have put additional screws around the whole perimeter.

Go to www.critesspeakers.com & they will be able to help you with pricing for all the components, John

The woofer is an Eminence K33, the midrange is an Electrovoice K55 mated to a Klipsch K400 horn & the tweeter is an Electrovoice T35. I feel it may be a bit ambitious to try to duplicate the sound of the original Klipsch La Scala with different components. My advice would be to be guided by the people mentioned previously as they have a huge amount of experience with the heritage Klipsch products. As far as the La Scala versus the Klipschorn, the La Scala is a great sounding speaker, but the Klipschorn was Paul W Klipsch's ultimate design for home reproduction.Having said that, I am more than satisfied with the sound of my La Scala's, Cheers, John []

Hi Arash and welcome to the forum. User BEC can help you with the drivers & crossovers. His website is www.critesspeakers.com. Also talk to user Al Klappenberger about crossovers as well. His website is www.alkeng.com. Here's a copy of the plans also if you need them.....good luck. John LaScala11.pdf

Greg....sent you a PM for the Beymas

Yes, you're right....fastening it to the end of the horn will be a pain. I actually discussed this situation with Bill Martinelli & he suggested that the short straight entry of the adaptor before it entered the horn might actually be a good thing......he didn't think that this section would create any problems. Still interested to see what you think if you do try it out.

If you guys want to have a slinging match, I wish you'd do it somewhere else. To the less technically minded of us out here......we all love input from both of you & we'll decide who we buy equipment from based on our evaluation of your posts.....anyway I didn't think this was the appropriate place for two competitors to be arguing about their business practices. We come here to get away from the stress of life & to enjoy our hobby, please lets get back to that.[*-)]

All great info Al & thanks for giving us all a base line to judge these by. When are you going to give us your subjective impressions? I don't think many of us would buy any speaker without listening to it first, regardless of how it measures. I personally have only heard the Klipsch driver & the Crites CT125. My subjective impression is that I personally didn't like the Klipsch driver & found the CT125 marginally better.......until I fitted it with a different horn & then it bloomed & opened right up. Thanks for your efforts []

More tech info La Scala BR Mod Specs.pdf

The consensus was that 7" was the best compromise....apparrently 10" lost some of the impact from the bass. The ports on my bin aren't tapered.....just 4" diam X 7" long......yes, just take the bottom panel off the LS bass bin......put some sealing tape on the bass reflex cab & sit the bass bin on top........find some technical info attached. La Scala Bass Reflex Mod.pdf

Experimenting with set back of mid & tweeter and using mid horn free standing

Another sample of staining......this is pretty much all over the cabinets

As you will know I recently completed a set of LS clones and I now find I have a problem with them. It appears that I have been supplied some faulty ply that is bleeding black sections through to the surface. I also notice that I have a resonance that I believe is coming from the bass bin around 300-1000Hz (educated guess without any test equipment), although I can feel some vibration from the inside of the back panel & from the front of the side panels forward of the brace. This reveals itself as an annoying resonance in the upper bass, lower mids on bass guitar, electric guitar particularly, and piano.............. The plan is to kill two birds with one stone and apply an additional 3/4 inch layer of ply to both sides and the rear and reveneer all surfaces.......... I've also been experimenting with placement of the mid and tweeter horns. I've found that the Trachorn sounds better when just free standing on top of the bass bin & the tweeter is mounted to a baffle. I've used sound absorbing foam around the tweeter baffle. I have also timed aligned the mid and tweeter to a certain degree by setting them back from the front edge....so the mid is back from the bass bin and the tweeter is back from the mid horn........going to apply the 3/4 ply with a product called "Green Glue" which is a sound absorbing, deadening adhesive & screw to the existing panels.....should be interesting. Excuse the running writing as my paragraphing doesn't seem to retain itself.......will take a few weeks to get the ball rolling, but will post pics when construction is underway.

First of all the Altec 19''s & most VOTT will certainly go to 20K.....and you will find that the 19's passive crossover has both low & high end frequency compensation built into it's design. This, plus other factors, is what gives the 19 it's unique sound. Cheers, John[]

Interesting, Rudy. I am also a big fan of Al's 1 inch horns. In fact, I like them so much that I decided to keep mine until I found something leaps and bounds better. Picking up these inexpensive horns (100 bucks per) was an easy way for me to play around with 2 inch drivers and still keep my Trachorns for the time being (which are up front with 902s). Carl. Sorry to hi-jack this thread, but can you tell me where you cross the 902's at & what crossover you are using?

Did you used wood dedicated undercoat/paints or a car dedicated? It was a multi purpose undercoat & top coat that could be used on a variety of materials....including timber & metal.

Amazing...just amazing. Dig those split 210 Altec horns!!!!

For what it's worth, I got my ALK Tractrix horns in raw finish because I was going to stain them & leave them in a natural timber colour. For various reasons this didn't work out & I ended up painting them. I used 4 coats of grey undercoat, then 4 coats of satin black, followed by 2 coats of clear lacquer....they sound pretty good to me.[]