holtrp

Everything came right together yesterday afternoon. 4 lbs of poly per box. Used a little over two 8 oz bottles of titebond, A full caulking tube of silicon and about 3/4 small tube of silicone. If you don't have gloves handy, make sure you have some Gojo or other heavy citrus cleaner on hand when using that silicone. Never did break into the brad nails. I think my worst glued panel was about 1/16" off, nothing some sanding can't take care of.

Loved the Dayton binding posts. 1/4" bit & mallet drove them in no problem. They have a interesting lock washer setup and using a 10mm socket, they tightened up nicely.

I pre-drilled pilot holes for the drivers. It was sort of a pain to line them back in for the final drop-in and if I had to do it over again, I probably wouldn't have bothered, just drop in, drill and screw all at once. Only ended up with one screw that walked a little bit though. The #10 1" pan heads and 3/32" pilots are a perfect fit for these drivers.

Got two smaller tubes of silicone for after the box is put together. Getting the caulking gun in there would be a nightmare. Not sure what to think of the Speakon connectors. They seem very robust. I bet they are great at 3 AM after the gig when you are rigging down completely buckled off house drinks. I still prefer a plain old bare wire binding post.

Glad I changed and went with the #10 1" panheads. Much better fit for these drivers.

Going with 4 lbs per box. Should have 2 oz to spare!

Old pigtail connectors put to good use. Looks like a 1/4" bit will do the trick here.

Had plenty of 'help' yesterday.

Made some pretty decent progress, not nearly as far as I would have liked. The Wife ambushed me last night and we ended up watching The Great Gatsby. The LFE on that sound track was mocking me. The 3/4 sides are put on, only need to glue on the last and motor board. Are 5 24" wood clamps a bit overkill? Maybe. That is what I would recommend if I was doing this over though. Panels have been coming right together but have used the mallet a couple times to get them in. Ready for caulk and binding posts this morning, then finish gluing, drilling pilots for driver mounts, finish caulking, Polyfill, mount drivers and go time!

Thanks for the link Derrick. That is a good write up and I will be referring to it often over the next few days. You were running 4 ohm stereo through the iNuke 6000 and never had problems? Seems like an awful lot of power for these drivers. Scrap, Will call you sometime today.

Hey Derrick, These drivers are only rated to 1000 RMS and 1500 peak. From what I have read, the iNuke puts out about 1800 per channel in 4 ohm, so I am definately going to take it easy and was hoping to limit the output on the amp to 1000 watts.

Flat packs are awesome. Very well cut. A fifth grader could piece them together. The only annoying thing for me was the popcorn styrofoam packing. I hate popcorn styrofoam. I have all braces glued and should finish the baffles tonight. Using Tite-bond III it says right on the bottle to glue and clamp for 30 mins, which is what I have been doing and then don't stress the glue for 24 hours. I am using 4 24" 600 lbs wood clamps I picked up from Lowes on clearance. I am pretty confident I am using enough glue. A fair amount runs out the seams after I put a piece together then gets wiped up with a damp cloth. I also have 4 6" C Clamps in reserve for the sideboards and top / bottom when I get to that. No need for brad nails yet. I figure with gravity doing it's thing with the braces, there is no need. I may end up not even using them at all. We’ll see how it goes. I estimate I have about ~10 hours worth of gluing left to do. I was thinking about getting greedy and doing 3 sides at a time per box, but decided against it. Just take my time and make sure it is tight doing each panel one by one.

The amps are tied in and powered up, just to make sure nothing was DOA. The Radio Shack had one single RCA to 1/4 TS connector and three Duel RCA to single 1/4" TS connector. Sort of a daisy chain menagerie but I can't think of why it wouldn't work. I played with the menu on the iNuke a bit. Will probably have to get the CPU hooked up to really play around. Definately will have to talk it out with Scrappy to get some sort of procedure together to limit the output from this thing and fully understand the PEQ and crossover features. Some people think the silver face Behringers look bad. I kind of like them. I own two German designed vehicles, and I should love these amps if they are anything like the cars they build. I do have everything hooked up through a decent surge protector, but have experienced some hum action after introducing XLR crossover parts into my system. Good god I hope that is not an issue with this project. Ground loop hums are miserable.

I was curious about using a gasket on the driver but Dayton already has one installed, so that is a win. First impression of the driver is that this is a no frills, well built piece of equipment. This is no Mickey Mouse subwoofer. No fancy-boy silk screen or cool picture on the cone. No high- gloss powder coated spider basket. Just a serious looking sub. Well done Dayton. I like it already.

So I am up and running. UPS guy pointed out that the Dayton woofers were listed at 149 lbs a piece! Which could explain how I got rooked with insane shipping costs. I have a note in with PE, Amazon and UPS to figure it out. Hopefully they will make it right. Thanks UPS guy! I might not have caught that.

I have the 83 and have been thinking about upgrading to the 103. Wasn't really sure if Darbee was worth it. Good to hear someone chime in with a noticeable difference. If you like DSOM, check out Wish You Were Here SACD. I really hope Pink releases more SACD, specifically The Wall and Meddle.

Quick update... I naturally assumed that shipping would be the customary 7-10 business days which would have my gear arriving sometime next week right before I have to go out of town for work for two weeks. To my surprise, the whole kit is on a truck for delivery this morning according to UPS. I guess having Anchorage as a major cargo hub from China is paying off. I had ordered some RCA to XLR crossover cables but am now going to run over the the shack and see about some RCA to RS plug crossovers for the receiver to amp connection. I am worried about hum, signal strength and other assorted non-sense going from RCA to XLR, so I figure as long as the amp accepts unbalanced TS connectors, that is the simplest thing to do and it should work out. Other than that, I have a chartplotter and transducer to put on our boat and some grout for a bathroom remodel plus the little guy is turning two this weekend, so I don't know how far I will get on this project. Hopefully I will get two of these up and rumbling by this weekend for a movie night! Will post pictures as I go.

I have owned a few vintage craigslist buy marantz 22xx receivers. I have had a 2226b rebuilt and am currently having a 2270 rebuilt. I personally think it is money well spent. As Moray pointed out, caps either swell out or dry out, putting them out of spec. Replacing all these parts can be expensive but if it is in frequent use, I would go for it.

Haven't looked into it myself but a co worker of mine says he is doing very well loan sharking out money in prosper.com

Scrap! Will call tomorrow at nap time bro! Derrick, probably won't have it all up and running for a month. Totally looking forward to it though. I will keep you posted.

This is normal in my experience. You get a new piece of gear or change something up and really enjoy it at first. Then after a while you get used to it. Then you starting focusing on something else or another upgrade. I agree that just trying new products and moving things around from time to time provide a lot of the enjoyment for me and I have been enjoying listening to music and watching movies for 20 years now. Sorry you are not enjoying your theater as much as you had hoped.

Alright, so scratch all that. I just got a second iNuke so now the my Daytons should have plenty of juice at 4ohm

Yeah, placing them one on each wall isn't going to work. Mid way on the front walls sounds pretty good in my room though. The main LP is all I care about and everything I have had in this position sounds pretty sharp. Maybe when I do a full remodel I can look at other positions. So even if I use a brad nailer, still want to put some glue in I would think. That is probably what I will do because I don't have access to a bunch of clamps. What about sealing and fill? Was planning on just some decent caulking and gutting a few walmart pillows.

Alright, With the JL f113 and my Velodyne 1200 SPL-R finally sold, I just placed my order for 4 Dayton Audio High Output 18" subs with the precut 4 cu ft sealed boxes and a Behringer inuke6000 DSP sold at parts express. One bit of advice right out of the gate, I saved nearly 50% on shipping by ordering through Amazon opposed to directly buying through parts express. Living in Alaska, PE was quoting me $477 per unit to ship where as Amazon was only about $225 both with UPS ground. I don't know what the deal is. I had been emailing back and forth with PE and they were somewhat sympathetic but didn't offer a lower shipping price. Sure glad I shopped around a bit. Anyway, I would love any advice for hooking these things up when they get here. Plan is to have them flanking the center in a small recess I have in my room co-located on top of each other. Apparently, these cut boxes are just glued together? That doesn't seem right. I have to shop around and see about some Netrick Speakon connectors, scrappy mentioned the 4 pole are the way to go just because they are a little beefier. Planning on leaving the boxes unfinished for now. Probably go with a nice black ash veneer down the road to match everything else when I get some time. Will keep everyone posted and get some photos when I get to work. Cheers!

Awesome! I recently picked up a pair myself. My corners are worse than yours with windows and ledges on one side of each speaker that extend halfway up the base bin. However, I was moving up from Heresy's and the Khorn bass sounds awesome to my ear. I have never listened to cornwalls but from everything I have heard they put out amazing bass. You might try moving bookcases, etc away from the sides of the Khorns as that may be trapping some of that bass coming out of the sides. I also went with 1/2" PVC piping and nice heavy 1/2" and 1" heavy rubber pipe foam insulation to seal as much of the bass bin as possible. It was a improvement, but I can't really say it was a night and day difference in bass output. I was reading this on AK the other day... just google 'klipschorn missing bass' a guy bought a pair of used Khorns and discovered a non-stock woofer installed that had separated from the woofer surround. He replaced it but ended up getting a separate subwoofer to go with his Khorns. You might pop off the side panel and woofer just to make sure everything is connected and in good condition. Here is my setup for comparison: