Jump to content

70SATMan

Regulars
  • Posts

    35
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

70SATMan's Achievements

Member

Member (2/9)

1

Reputation

  1. Sometimes this forum is a pain to use...
  2. For sale is my pair of K-33-Es. Serial numbers 11565 and 11595. I pulled these working units out of my Cornwalls yesterday. $300 plus shipping from area code 95003. My email is michaelfred at sbcglobal dot net
  3. Thanks guys! I should post some new pics (also have a new media cabinet). Might be hard to imagine but, I've since cleaned them up with Murphys oil soap and they now look much better. They're still in raw birch and you can really see the figuring.[] Costerdock, I've been debating a veneer in Koa (one wood that my wife absolutely loves). The debate about the originality in my head so far has kept that at bay.
  4. Those are right where they are supposed to be. Congrats on the CDs! They look awesome. I'm biased though...
  5. Heresys at $400 USD average. Shipping to OZ can not be $500 bad even with duty.
  6. There are two versions of the thin flange K-700 horn shown on the right that I know of. The number and pattern of mounting holes are different from each other.
  7. Taps refer to the autotransformer. They are numbered and represent a different pick up point off of the transformer windings. Refer to the picture, I've pointed to one set of the taps:
  8. Well, it can work the other way as well. A lot of knowledgable people would rather buy original units so that they can do their own mods. At least that is how I approach it. When I see a modified unit, I'm always questioning the level of expertise, quality of the modded componentry, etc. If I'm going to invest my time, I'd rather not have to correct anyone elses work. It they were my untouched Heresys I'd do the following in order (hey initially it's just fiddle time anyway): 1. clean up all internal mechanical connections. If you have the push pin type of connections on the drivers I'd re-tin the wire leads. I would not resolder the spade to wire connections but, I would clean/polish the spades and terminal block connections on the crossover themselves. This includes the terminal block bolt ring lugs on the back panel. 2. tighten all driver mounting to motorboard screws 3. have a listen....If no improvement.. 4. replace the driver to horn seals (cheap and doesn't affect originality in any meaningful way) 5. have a listen....If no improvement... 6. Re-cap but, keep the original caps so that you can return it to stock condish. 7. have a listen....If no improvement.. 8. Replace/upgrade the diaphrams.... 9. have a listen....if no improvement.. 10. throw up your hands and go back to listening to your Corns![] Going beyond this point on the Heresy is diving into the deep end of the modification pool.
  9. I had a normal Cornwall center for awhile and loved the sound but, was unhappy with the layout. I should have been a little more clear. I'm designing a center that is Cornwall based but, will be in a standard center configuration/shape so that it's easier to deal with and allows the use of a nice console/stand. I'm not worried about the crossover specifics but, I'm hung up on woofer cone material and how that affects the timbre of the bass response. Initially I had been looking for good 8 in fiber composite woofers with my performance requirements. That has been tough so far. Now in a poly cone, it's much different. There are a lot of choices out there. So I started wondering if I was making a mountain out of a molehill. I'd still love to keep with a fiber composite for the visual aspects of the design.
  10. I'm hip to the whole center match in terms of power and tonal matching.... Since I'm a Heritage guy and will probably always be, the natural progression of my early two channel days has lead me into the Heritage HT and I'm well on my way (into pagan delight). My center is currently Heresy based but, I need more meat for my Corn mains. Before anyone says "third Corn...Vert....just stop right there. Don't say it, BTDT. It just doesn't pass my AF let alone the WAF in terms of design asthetics. My garage is my man cave and I prefer to be a fasionable adult in my LR. So, here is the question and it's more of a poll of opinion actually. Would you say that the key to timbre/tonal matching of the center is 95% Mid and high? That is my take and I'm wondering how many agree. My new center is 90% designed but, I'm waffleing a bit on the woofers. Originally I was dead set on finding woofers with the same cone material as my corns so that I would be dead nuts on. However, that is becoming a challenge to the build. I'm now considering poly woofers and I realize that I'm going to "maybe" hear some differences but, I'm beginning to believe it's going to be very minor. I'm only going to do this once and I would rather avoid a bunch of retuning or swapping of drivers, though I guess I had planned to build a mule first before using my final stock. So, maybe I could play a bit. I hate having to buy extra drivers, having to get rid of them etc. Hassle. What does the brain trust think?
  11. Guys, the original thread/post is almost three years old!
×
×
  • Create New...