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You are very welcome. My speeches weren't made to sway you on way or another, just to enlighten you and make you confident with any scenario regardless of difficulty. With inhibition out of the way, you can make the decision that is best for you. Separates are not for everyone nor are receivers.

Chances are that your HK puts out enough wattage for those speakers. They aren't very big and despite their lower efficiency, they still recommend only 50 watts RMS with 200 watts peak. I think you may notice more detail if anything but that could be just critical listening. I think mostly it will be a lateral shift. Its worth a try though! Its pretty affordable and comes with a trial period. BTW, how do you like your dayton ultimax upgrade? i was looking at those for a sonosub i was going to do but never did.

I also wanted to add to my other post. Headroom is something nice to have and you don't realize what it truly means until you have it and then it is taken away. Ignorance in audio is bliss sometimes. Part of the time you will know straight off the bat if the sound is good or not. The other part of the time it just sounds good but you may not know any better. Extra power will help with overall musicality and dynamics. Join this with the individual sonic signatures of a particular amplifier and you have an infinite number of combinations. I will be honest and tell you this. I am blissfully ignorant to what is outside of what i know. I am terrified to listen to a McIntosh amp for the fear that it might blow away what I have and i will lust for the uber expensive McIntosh. I have listened to many pairs of klipsch and i hate that i haven't had a chance to listen to them all. I think that i have landed on a great setup that i have pieced together from scratch but it has taken me a few years and it has taken testing several pieces of equipment. As it stands now, i am at peace with what I have and when you reach this point, it is a sigh of relief. I am a lifer, i love audio and home theater and its a big part of me as a person because its a hobby that i choose to learn everything I can about. I am an nut-job but here on the forums, I am not alone. You don't have to be crazy to love what you hear but you have know that you like what you have. Don't get distraught either. Tuning things takes some time to get it just right and the best place for you to bring your questions is here or do some general internet research.

you talking about the hiss or the fact the gain is so high its hard to calibrate? cause neither would be an issue with his particles speaker in a room his size. Emotiva amps have a higher gain than most which just means a higher sensitivity for incoming signals. It also means sensitivity to any unwanted noise present within the signal path. Emotiva did this for compatibility purposes for AVR's that have weaker output signals. It's just a method of compensation but it does carry the drawback of increased potential of hearing noise within the signal path. A lower gain is optimal because it is less prone to picking up unwanted noise. The caveat here is that you need a stronger signal going it to it to reach the same volumes. This was something stated by Big Dan at Emotiva or Lonnie in a pod cast or post made some time ago and it stuck with me because its important to know. Variable gain would be nice for home amps but isnt a typical feature for the most part. Commonly, variable gain is found on car amps for increased compatibility. I know that with my Arc Audio amps, i have my gain as low as possible so as to limit any unwanted to noise. I basically tuned the system to the mechanical limits of the speakers and tuned my gain so that it was as least as possible. In part, i was able to do this because my headunit has some of the highest potential signal output on the market at 5V which for signals is high. Hope this insight helps.

I think you are missing my points. I am going off of what you have said here with no other material facts and speculation because I have no other material facts. I haven't seen a lease so I can't determine breach of contract (if any exist by landlord or tenant) and I can't determine recourse for landlord or tenant. If you say that the lease document does not afford the landlord lockout privileges, then the landlord may not lock the tenant out. Then, if the lease is still current and valid, again, the landlord may not lock the tenant out. I haven't said anything to contrary and I couldn't have been any more transparent in my explanation and knowledge of your situation. You are attacking me when I am trying to help you but I can see that you "know everything" and I can't be of a lending hand. I wish you the best of luck because having people sleeping around at the top isn't going to make your case any easier to deal with. Take them to court, it isn't very difficult to do. Make sure you have an actual Arkansas real estate attorney, not you uncles best friends wifes attorney who does family law in California. I wish you the best of luck and it is a good thing you have retained what I hope is proper legal council for the situation. Try bringing your case to Klipsch and see if they would help. I don't know why they wouldn't help and I am sure they have legal council in-house or on retainer...

separates are far from difficult. Personally, with all the crap they stuff into AVR's, the last thing i want to worry about after all of that is whether or not the amplifier within it is going to suffice. As long as your AVR has 7.1 or 7.2 channel pre-out, you can always add a power amp down the line or right off the bat. One of the main bumps in price for AVR's is the amount of amplifier power under the hood. To me, it is a quick diminishing value. A power amplifier, if it is a decent brand and well taken care of should perform and outlast your receiver/processor several times over. I find it comforting to know that I have the power i need no matter what and all i have to do is concentrate on the processing aspect when it comes to for upgrades. All speakers come with a RMS rating and a Peak rating. The RMS is a number representing the consistent amount of power that can be fed to the speaker without destroying it. The Peak value is an amount of power that the speaker can handle for an extremely short time, like, miliseconds and is something that might happen when there is an explosion in the movie. What you need to understand is that audio media tends to be dynamic and constantly changes. Sometimes its loud, sometimes its quiet and the power requirements constantly change to reproduce the audio tracks. You can power those THX speakers with 1 watt but it won't be very loud. The spiel above brings me to headroom and solid stat amplifiers vs tube amplifiers. Tube amplifiers are of years past and are still used today and considered to be HIFI. Typically lower in wattages and has tons of waste heat, tube amps are suited for 2 channel critical listening. Tubes are unique in that once you reach the peak power output, the signal is still OK. Essentially, the amplifier has run out of gas and can't give you more power. Enter the solid state amplifier. Transistors have replaced tubes because they do the same thing but at a much much smaller size. They aren't exactly the same thing but accomplish the same task differently. Unlike tubes amps, solid state (transistor amps) run out of gas too but they "clip" at peak power output whereas tubes don't. This means the signal starts to distort and is harmful to your speakers. You can achieve much higher wattages in a small package this way but the caveat is the amp will start clipping at/near max power output. This brings us to headroom. With solid state amps, a lot of us like to leave headroom which is excess power above the stats RMS of the speakers, If the RMS is 200 watts, you may want to pair an amp with 225 or 250 watts. This is purely rule of thumb and just a guide line. This rule of thumb pretty much ensures that your speaker will fail before your amp runs out of power. Klipsch speakers are some of the most efficient on the market and can produce the same volume as other speakers but with less power. This is awesome! Why? Because you don't necessarily need 250 watts per channel for your speakers, you could get away with half that. I run my RF-7's with 125 watts per channel and my ears will bleed before i need more power to them. Your in-walls are not as efficient as my 7's are but at 91-92 db its still not bad. Because your speakers are in sealed enclosures and have a lower sensitivity, having some better power behind them is much more crucial. For every 3 db increase in sensitivity, you need half the power to reach the same volume. Conversely, for every 3 db decrease in sensitivity, you need twice as much power to reach the same volume. In reality, when you are watching a movie, you aren't using much power until an explosion, gun shot or other really loud noises that are dynamic. Most receivers that are class AB put out about 40% less than it states. So for 100 watts X 5 channels, figure about 60 watts of power per channel. Class D is more efficient and tends to have outputs much closer to stated wattages. Power amps are a different story and you are really getting the power that you pay for. 60 watts is still a good deal of power and would work fine but you would benefit greatly by having some extra power at your disposal. There is a lot to learn about when it comes to audio and If you are fairly new, this is just an overload of info. We all get that and we are here to help! Just don't be intimidated. Take the bull by the horns! Since you are just getting your feet wet, find a receiver with Pre-Outs on the back, concentrate on what features you get and get it. The power that follows should be enough. If you find you want more power, adding a power amp will be a breeze!

If it is provided within the lease that a landlord can lock a tenant out for breach of contract after a proper default notice given (if required to do so in the lease), it is not illegal, it is stated in black and white, on paper. Now, to prevent someone from claiming their belongings that is anyone but the tenant, then you would most likely have an issue. If you are the tenant and your belongings are inside, the owner may sell to mitigate their losses that the tenant has created for them. You can't just lock a tenant out for no reason if the lease has not been breached and it is still valid and on going. You can choose to believe me or not, but I default tenants and lock them out for breaches of contract all the time in the commercial space that I manage and it is perfectly legal. I do what the lease provides me to do as a remedy in the event of a tenant breach. The tenant should know what the consequences are because they read the lease and then signed their name at the bottom. Now, you say residence, which implies a home. This is not a home from what i can understand and no one is living there. Residential and commercial are completely different. If you are squatting without a lease and it is a commercial property, your *** is getting tossed to the curb with the help of the police, that's what i would do. I can't really speculate anymore on this without seeing the actual lease that valerie klipsch has or the entity that was leasing the space. I am just basing things off of the bits and pieces i can put together here. Personally, something sounds funny to me.

I just picked this bundle up tonight from best buy and it is awesome. I went in looking to see if it was on display to test and lucky for me there was a sonos rep and a full demo table! The bridge connects to your router and scans your network for music files and libraries while the Connect is attached to my Emotiva UMC-1. You then download on your apple or andoid the sonos player app and you can control whats played via your portable device. One of the biggest selling points is that it works via proprietary wireless technology and transmits your media files at their native resolution, no downsizing. You can also have the sonos player on multiple devices and change the songs from each one at any given time. This was just the solution i was looking for as i will eventually get a NAS and have just one dedicated source. I hadn't really seen anything else like this and so far, i am so pleased. The wireless aspect of it all is amazing.

Redmere hdmi cables from monoprice are the best hdmi cables I have used and they put zero stress on the hdmi ports because of their small size.

I think your IB setup is one of the coolest I've seen for home audio. You have a good home design for it

Did you cover the subs on the top and sides just to keep some dust out? I have to build little enclosures for my new in ceilings so the insulation and dust doesn't get in the drivers

Palladiums are a type of speaker you book a flight for to listen to if you are a die hard klipsch fan and feel they are the perfect speaker for you

Oh, no no no, i didn't mean there was a specific sag t/s, sorry, didnt mean to make that confusing.

82's and call it a day if you don't find anything good over the weekend and you cant wait any longer

When a sub is inverted, the spider and cone will sag more or less depending on materials, weight and design of the driver. If the driver sags, it is already expending some of its mechanical travel which means it will need less power to reach mechanical limits which can also affect its accuracy. I had looked into doing a sono-sub at one point and the sono-sub calculator takes into account a drivers T/S and tuning if any to let you know if a sub is a good candidate or not for a down-firing position. I can't pretend to know the full math behind it all but driver sag isn't a new theory. Look at a lot of the old vertical woofers, some have sagged and need to be turned 180 degrees. Drivers can't defeat gravity forever! It's been a bunch of months since i last looked at the sono-sub program because i bought my SVS subs and no longer needed to worry about a DIY project.

Will it work? Yes/No What sub/s are you looking to use? Not all subs are rated for down-firing use. Drivers can be more prone to driver sag as well as mechanical over-excursion if you dont have the correct T/S parameters.

I can never complain about headroom thats for sure! The recommended crossovers are 80hz for the thx so digging deep isnt necessarily required. Budget is a limit here though. You could go with emotiva amps and make a 7 channel setup with an xpa5 and a 2 channel and that will bring you in near budget. I prefer my outlaw to the xpa5 and sold it to make the swap

i would stick with the reference line for in-ceiling. Getting the reference models with 8" drivers would match best but you could swing the 6.5" drivers. It is just for rear duty so they don't need to be uber. I just put in CDT-5800 II's in my ceiling for my rears with my 7's and they blend perfect and would do well for your rf-3's. Call mike at acoustic sound design and tell him what you have, what he suggests and what deals hes got going. I got a BOGO deal on my 5800's so it worked well.

You probably would be a good candidate for the Icon W series, slim towers, tons of WAF and an awesome open sound. The good thing is you can sell the B&W set and get something else used! or new....depends on how much you get haha

Processor Emotiva UMC-200 http://shop.emotiva.com/collections/processors/products/umc200 Amplifier Outlaw Audio Model 7125 http://outlawaudio.com/products/7125.html I personally own a Model 7125 amp and it will definitely be enough for your setup. I actually don't think ive turned it up far enough for it to run out of gas. My rf-7's were making my ears bleed when i tested it haha. It should give you some good overhead too! Total $1,500 Wires http://shop.emotiva.com/collections/interconnects/products/xrca I have these and I love them. I hear a difference over the monoprice ones and think they sound smoother even though i will use the monoprice ones from time to time, my 7.2 is wired with these though! I did tons of searching for good quality shielded and affordable RCA's and this is what i came up with.

there are always trade offs but at the end of the day, is the cost worth it for what you get out of it type deal. I thought my UMC-1 did extremely well for 2 channel listening barring that in stereo it disables your subs which is stupid.

im not worried about it overheating whilst sitting idle. Any kind of heat degrades electronic components, just at different rates. Do what you will, i just recommend you turn it off to save power and potentially extend lifespan.

they look comparable to me. B&W is an excellent brand and i think it is just flavor of taste you prefer. For a grand you can get some awesome klipsch used that would spank that B&W setup.

After looking at all of the options, all of which were good here, i decided that since the setup is going to have a TV involved, i might as well cover my *** and go for a surround preamp. I think the UMC-200 would do well, has all of the inputs, easy tv compatibility and should be a quality piece. I have some stuff on craigslist which if it sells would allow me to expand my budget a bit. I like options and sometimes i hate myself for it because it complicates things 10 fold haha. Thanks for the input all!

I miss it. Probably one of the nicest looking speakers Klipsch has made. Its disappointing that its production ceased. The horn it has is the most open sounding of any klipsch that I have ever heard. I think it probably would have given the reference line a HUGE run for its money had they gone with bigger drivers. The downside was always the cost of the "premium" finish which made them prohibitive almost for their cost. I am writing this because i was inspired by the WB-14's on my computer that i haven't really listened to in months. My WF-35 system is still in use by my dad in NJ and he loves it. The center channel is one of the few that he has told me produces clear vocals for him, i think even better than my RC-7, to him at least.