JohnA

Your crossover design will be set by the LF cut-off of your horns. The K-77 can be used down to 3500, but requires a steep xover slope that low. What squawker horn are you using? If it is a K-700, it's LF cut-off is 700 Hz and a modified Heresy crossover will work.

Hi Ray, I remembered your story. I figured it was on the outside of normal. I fried 4 sub drivers at once in my VMPS with an Acurus A250; my first damage to a speaker. Mine failed from excessive heat, but could have been reconed. I didn't, opting for the high power drivers. They now have a 500 watt rating, each. i don't want to embarrass you. How is you employment going?

I have a Meterman meter that will measure inductance. It cost $131 with tax.

Hey mOOn, I wish I had seen this earlier. Your woofer was undoubtedly damaged with too much power, like Ray said. The melted voice coil has frozen the diaphragm, like Ray said. It can be repaired by reconing (replacing the cone, voice coil, voice coil former spider and cone suspension as a unit). Klipsch used to recone the driver for you for about $75 and test the results. That's what I'd do. If the other drivers are working, they will be fine. If you want to be anal-retentive, have both woofers reconed. The K-33-E and K-33 are made by Eminence. I have never found any reason for the change in designation. A good repair station can properly recone the driver IF they use the correct kit from Eminence. The part number will be a silver ink stamp on the back of the cone. This is not a fatal problem and overhauling every driver will only cost about $75 or so each. After the overhauls, all drivers will be as perfect as new, even though only one needs it. It will not hurt to replace the wiring in your Belles, though it may not help.

Your tweeter diaphragm is blown. Measuring the crossover tells you nothing useful.

They should have K-33-e woofers, K-55-M squawkers, K-400 Al squawker horns, K-77-M tweeters and Type AL networks.

While I respect the opinion of John Curl, the issue at hand is speakers and my experience changing crossovers and drivers is "Fiction". WRT tube amps, I have but a little experience. However, we all know that a tube begins to degrade as soon as it is used and finally fails. It is not hard to imagine the sound changing during this process.

There's no H/K out there that can power the lights of the B&K.

I can assure you I am not a *self*-proclaimed engineer; I earned it. And again, there is no noise on the DC from a battery! It is difficult not to find improvement when one makes his own tweaks. If it is supposed to be better, it WILL sound better.

Warning! B.S. Meter pegged! Warning! Warning! The first giveaway was noise on DC from bateries!

Can any of you explain how push-pull, which implies Class B to me, functions in Class A? Shouldn't they just be operated in parallel?

It is hard to imagine that there is any difference at all *providing* the power supply caps properly filter the resulting DC. It the caps are not big enough and/or let some ripple through there will be an impact on the sound. OYOH, it is my understanding that tube rectifiers begin to work gradually and provide sort of a soft start for the output tubes. That has to be considered good.

Can a push-pull tube amp be Class A? How much power should an amp produce it is has 4 KT-88s and is run in Class A?

I'm sorry to report you are incorrect, Jim. The back air chamber is sealed in a K-horn.

Doug to the rescue!!!!

Price depends on style, finish and condition. A good average for that age would be $2500/pair and that is likely what they cost new, or close. Watch ebay.

Ohm is the chant of Buddhist monks. Or maybe it is a measure of restriction to the flow of electricity in a circuit, sort of like a pinched hose or cracked valve. Or maybe it is a nineteenth century German physicist. Take you pick.

If used seriously (rare) and accurately (rarer) it means a standard. It could be a standard of voltage that produces a desired output, i.e., a signal to noise ratio might be referenced to 2 volts input that would cause an amp to put out full power, or the point on the preamp's volume control that provides 0 gain. In practice it is an advertizing ploy.

road bike actually means road bicycle. It can be made useful as well as strenuous fun. Your relatives won't have to give you rides all the time.

Get a road bike. Generate your own speed. Try getting a speeding ticket!

P is 1976, the year I discovered Klipsch.

The resistor flattens the impedance curve in the midrange. Otherwise it would be about 6 ohms on the woofer, 26 to 32 ohms in the midrange and 8 ohms where the tweeter operates.

Since every room is different, there is no best way. You'll have to experiment. I have 3 Heresies. It's hard to imagine they'd sound better off of the floor, since they are bright in the first place. Try it and see what happens!

Hey Al, Using my new digital meter (cool Meterman that directly measures L & C), the #561 limits the power through the tweeter to about 2 watts steady state, from about 5V to 10.6V. Perhaps it is a bit too limiting. It begins to glow at 1.5V.

Thanks from me, too! What a treasure trove!