JohnA
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Posts posted by JohnA
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This is a play around sysyem and I think tubes would be more fun. I looked at the Dayton hybrids. They're interesting. The sound source will be a laptop, so there's no justification for $5000, and no desire in that system.
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23 hours ago, Erivera1990 said:
Thank you for your feedback, I got the AK3 Gold from Crites, and wow! They sound way better! Compared with the A 4,500hz.
I don't know if I like SoniCaps or not, but I think you'll be fine with those crossovers. Enjoy¡
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12 hours ago, Flevoman said:
The low notes will certainly be there. I have no doubt about that. My concern is more about how they are audible. Does size 2 have the same airy and dynamic sonic characteristics as the AL-5? After all, the AL-5 has a 15-inch woofer, while size 2 has an 8-inch one. Intuitively, I would say that an 8-inch woofer might have sonic differences compared to a 15-inch one, more so than a 12-inch would.
A subwoofer cannot be "airy". Since these are horn loaded, the effective radiating area is the area of the mouth, not the driver. But, also since they are horn loaded, the sound is clean. They don't have that subwoofer sound. They're musical and sound "effortless". We listened to (special) AL-5s with the larger 2 and the pairing was excellent. Having the entire bass range horn loaded stood out as clean, detailed and easier to separate instrument sounds.
If you need to go with the Medium because of size, I'd suggest buying 2 to get the max output up to where I'd want it. The Medium will cover all musical notes and most LFE effects.
I'm leaning toward a Large, but 2 Mediums will fit in my room easier.
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2 hours ago, Dave1291 said:
Is this the point where you "go big or go home?" Asking for a friend.
😂
I say, yes.
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What is the most likely cause for my '70s SS receiver popping/putting with the volume at zero and no input? It started this over the weekend. It was recapped 4 or 5 years ago.
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Do you have a recommendation for a cheap tube integrated to replace my '70s receiver to drive my Heresy IVs? Let's say 10 to 25 watts, 2 inputs and tone controls, price in the few hundred $$. I can pick one at random on Amazon, but I'd rather have a recommendation from someone with experience. My only experience with tubes was a pair of Wave-8s.
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On 11/13/2023 at 11:58 PM, Flevoman said:
Oehhhhh... Can I speculate then please?
Can I?.. Can I??(speculate mode on) I think replaceable tops for the La Scala AL-5 and Khorn that transform them into a two-way system.
Something like what someone did with their La Scalas here in the Netherlands. (speculate mode off)
Two of these tops, please, if I am correct 😇
That's not it. Not even close.
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On 11/3/2023 at 8:44 AM, Erivera1990 said:
Just got a pair of Klipschorns!
I have a few questions in regards of the internal wiring, mids, tweeters and crossovers.
- Is 16 awg good enough for rewiring my speakers? Or should I go with something like 14 or 12 awg? (The current ones aren't in good shape)
- For my mids (k55m) and tweeters (CT125), is there a rebuild kit? Should I take them apart to clean it or should I leave them alone? When I took everything apart it was pretty dusty inside.
- I currently have Crites A Crossovers, could I eventually upgrade the same crossover to an AA one?
I attached a picture of my crossover.
If someone could answer my question, I will appreciate!
Thank you in advance
Ed
I suppose I'm too late. There is no reason to replace any wiring. It never goes bad and is too short to impact the sound.
There is no reason to "rebuild" working drivers; leave them alone. The -Ms are good drivers. The diaphragm for K-55-Ms have not been available for years, though one vendor says he can adapt a K-55-V diaphragm.
The original tweeter was a K-77-M *if* the K-55-M is original. K-77-Ms were installed beginning in 1980, maybe late 1979. Since you have Z-brackets, the K-55-M should be OEM.
Your best choice for a crossover is an AK-3. A K-55-M easily reaches 6000 Hz, so your 4500 Hz crossover point is unnecessary. You should be interested in matching the horizontal dispersion of the squawker and tweeter at the crossover point. I expect Klipsch made an attempt at that.
I've never heard that tweeter, but a pair of K-77-Ms will return your Khorns to the original sound and performance.
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Until the Heritage subwoofers are ready, you'll want to look for a large, high output subwoofer to keep cone travel to a minimum. That ought to keep distortion down to tolerable levels. Check Klipsch.com, amazon for sales and contact Paducah Home Theater to see if Cory can help you out (I'll bet yes).
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19 minutes ago, Smitty8451 said:
Hey folks
One last question if you guys don’t mind, did the plate amps for these subs have XLR inputs by chance, my current subs do so that is the cabling I use. Not a big deal as I can convert to RCA, but I do prefer XLR for its balanced and noise rejection properties.
Than you in advance
No XLRs, but these are prototypes. Ask for XLRs and you might get them in production.
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2 hours ago, Marks said:
Was there any mention of how high of a response that each sub size can reach?
We were given response curves and they are not capable of reaching the bottom of a K-402, much to the disappointment of one or two men. These things were built to be subwoofers, not small Jubilees.
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11 hours ago, haydukej said:
Is the XL is actually a different beast/construction than the LF bin on the Heritage Jubilee? Spec sheet for LFHJ says it's 5 inches wider and goes 18hz, while the new heritage sub is smaller? and goes lower. Noting the heritage sub dimensions are estimated here. Would the lower response be due to different drivers and/or DSP or both?
Neither. The internal design is much different and is built for very low frequencies. The Heritage Jubilee is designed to get up to 800 to 1000 Hz. The Jubilee has a larger mouth and longer bass horn.
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18 hours ago, Flevoman said:
My heart is drawn to the large version for my AL-5, but my setup will probably only allow the medium one.
I can only hope that the medium + AL-5 will be a good match.
The medium will be a fine match. It will go down below any common musical note. You might find it is a little limited in max output compared to La Scala's, but 2 will plenty.
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I don't think it's critical. Where can you buy such a thing?
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2 minutes ago, nickyboy6100 said:
Do the sound similar to other horn loaded subs like the tuba subs or are they a whole new level?
I don't know and Coytee wasn't there for a comparison. I know he has one.
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The capability of the X-3/X-5 with a field-coil WE-555 treble unit was quite the surprise. We have better, now, but late-40s audio was in fact good. It was good to be a Fairchild! I'd guess from 100 to 6000 Hz, we don't have better, but Mr. Paul worked on the extremes until the Mighty Klipschorn became and it's still with us. I enjoyed it like seeing an old Packard or Ford still on the road!
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Roy used a Tool (!!??!! 😱) track in the demo. It was complex, crowded and toolish. All of the subs did a fine job of separating plucks, kicks, thumps and whacks. The system really stood out when the La Scalas slid in as all the bass was horn loaded. They do not sound like subwoofers, none of them. You can almost always tell there is a DR subwoofer in a system by "that sound" what ever it is.
These guys have balls!
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On 10/24/2023 at 3:03 PM, henry4841 said:
Guys I think we are splitting frog hairs discussing this. IMHO all 3 cases will sound fantastic in the real world with nothing nasty coming from the speaker. On paper, sure one may look better than the others but let's not say the speaker system will sound awful with any of the mentioned crossovers.
Oh you cannot do that, it will sound awful! I do not think any of us would say that with a straight face. Just being practical using common sense.
I had a pair of La Scalas with -M/AL networks for rear channels. My brother has them, now. My fronts came to me mismatched, 1981 -V/AA and 1982 -M/AL. As luck would have it the first squawker I found was a -V and the odd one was reconfigured to 1981 spec.
The -M/AL pair had a howling resonance in the lower registers of a French horn and I HATED them. My brother or I converted them the -V/AA, neither of us can remember which. I think the contouring in the Type AL was to blame and the AK/AB/AL was pretty quickly replaced with -2 versions. That pair were 1985-ish vintage and had the later round magnet woofers. The T-S are different from the square magnet woofer, I recommend AL-3s with those because the howl was near the crossover to the K-400 and the AL-3 has similarities, but is simpler than an AL.
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On 10/18/2023 at 11:57 PM, Flevoman said:
For a week now, I own a self-made 300B SET amplifier. It's a beautiful piece, and it sounds amazing. I'm absolutely thrilled. During my testing at home, I also experimented with various tubes. It was the first time I could personally witness how much difference a different rectifier tube, for example, can make.
The person who made the amp also produces DAC's at a very high level, and I had the chance to try one for a week. My 300B SET has two inputs, so I could connect my streamer in two ways. The usual method where my streamer's built-in DAC was used (a Cambridge CXN V2, to be precise), and another method via the streamer's pre-output to the external DAC, which had its own custom circuit with two tubes, and then through two interlinks (from a different brand) to the 300B SET.
Using the input selector, I could easily switch between the external DAC and the internal Cambridge DAC.
Now here's the strange part, and I hope someone can explain this to me. I couldn't hear any difference at all. Absolutely nothing! My girlfriend also sat by the amplifier for a while, switching the input signal back and forth, testing for differences in highs, lows, placement, liveliness, and so on. There was absolutely no discernible difference.
This truly puzzles me. If, as mentioned earlier, changing, for example, the rectifier tube in my amp results in such a clearly audible difference, how is it possible that when the audio signal skips the built-in preamp, goes through a different type of cable into the DAC with a completely different design, components, and materials (including two tubes), and then returns through two different interlinks into my amplifier, there's absolutely no difference to be heard, not even a slight improvement or degradation?
I genuinely don't understand this.
There are a number of possibilities. Beginning with Cambridge is good kit. The D-to-A conversion and filtering out of errors is done with pretty inexpensive chips and both DACs could well have the same, or equally performing chips (my guess). There is no correlation between cost and performance in High-end Audio. Some brands set price so you'll think they are more worthy. See Wilson Audio WAMM at $685,000.
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Travis, I hope you've recovered. We missed you. Actually they called them Small, Medium, Large and XL, aka "big boy" by Jesse, on the graphs.
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On 10/19/2023 at 7:03 AM, Shakeydeal said:
Yes, of course. When it comes to audio, all things = all other things.
@Flevoman according to many around here, the front end components supporting your speakers should be comprised of:
Cheap 80s five channel A/V receiver (preferably Radio Shack or Montgomery Ward)
Open box DVD player from Best Buy (you can substitute an early Sony Walkman with RCA adaptor here)
The throw away interconnects that came in the box with the DVD player
Speaker cables made from the cord of that floor lamp your Aunt Sadie gave you for Christmas in 1992
This system will be the equivalent of any high dollar system belonging to all of those pretentious, know-it-all "golden ear audiophiles". Anything more than this is a frivolous waste of your precious $$.
Extra bonus points if you just buy one of these and connect it to your Lascalas.
You should see what Roy uses to demo Jubilees!
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LOL! Somebody's google-fu is a failure.
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On 11/12/2023 at 12:35 AM, csajda said:
Is there a kit out there that I can buy to replace which should be replaced on these heresy speakers that I bought originally in 1981?
Any information on how to repair, refurbish and even test the existing components would be greatly appreciated.
New to The forum, thanks
There should be no need for a "rebuild". If a driver is not working it can be repaired.
Test by putting you ear close to each driver to see if it's producing sound. You can test DC resistance or continuity with a volt meter. A good volt meter can detect AC voltage applied to the driver terminals to test the network, if a driver tests good, but is not playing. That same good meter can test the network components, *IF* you can disconnect enough to test it alone.
Finally, if they sound recessed, laid back or "polite", consider replacing the capacitors with high quality film and foil caps as they may have gone off spec enough to affect the sound.
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Aside from pretty obvious terminal strip corrosion and other visible issues with the network, I'd recommend looking for very late K-77-Fs that have a recessed flange so the mouth of the tweeter is made flush with the motorboard. That cured some grittiness my La Scalas had. PM me for more ideas.
SS Receiver Putting
in Solid State
Posted
A lot of stuff in these old receivers is no longer available, the output chips in particular.