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Posts posted by JohnA

  1. On 10/18/2023 at 11:57 PM, Flevoman said:

    For a week now, I own a self-made 300B SET amplifier. It's a beautiful piece, and it sounds amazing. I'm absolutely thrilled. During my testing at home, I also experimented with various tubes. It was the first time I could personally witness how much difference a different rectifier tube, for example, can make.


    The person who made the amp also produces DAC's at a very high level, and I had the chance to try one for a week. My 300B SET has two inputs, so I could connect my streamer in two ways. The usual method where my streamer's built-in DAC was used (a Cambridge CXN V2, to be precise), and another method via the streamer's pre-output to the external DAC, which had its own custom circuit with two tubes, and then through two interlinks (from a different brand) to the 300B SET.

    Using the input selector, I could easily switch between the external DAC and the internal Cambridge DAC.


    Now here's the strange part, and I hope someone can explain this to me. I couldn't hear any difference at all. Absolutely nothing! My girlfriend also sat by the amplifier for a while, switching the input signal back and forth, testing for differences in highs, lows, placement, liveliness, and so on. There was absolutely no discernible difference.

    This truly puzzles me. If, as mentioned earlier, changing, for example, the rectifier tube in my amp results in such a clearly audible difference, how is it possible that when the audio signal skips the built-in preamp, goes through a different type of cable into the DAC with a completely different design, components, and materials (including two tubes), and then returns through two different interlinks into my amplifier, there's absolutely no difference to be heard, not even a slight improvement or degradation?


    I genuinely don't understand this.







    There are a number of possibilities.  Beginning with Cambridge is good kit.  The D-to-A conversion and filtering out of errors is done with pretty inexpensive chips and both DACs could well have the same, or equally performing chips (my guess).  There is no correlation between cost and performance in High-end Audio.  Some brands set price so you'll think they are more worthy.  See Wilson Audio WAMM at $685,000.

  2. On 10/19/2023 at 7:03 AM, Shakeydeal said:


    Yes, of course. When it comes to audio, all things = all other things.


    @Flevoman according to many around here, the front end components supporting your speakers should be comprised of:


    Cheap 80s five channel A/V receiver (preferably Radio Shack or Montgomery Ward)

    Open box DVD player from Best Buy (you can substitute an early Sony Walkman with RCA adaptor here)

    The throw away interconnects that came in the box with the DVD player

     Speaker cables made from the cord of that floor lamp your Aunt Sadie gave you for Christmas in 1992


     This system will be the equivalent of any high dollar system belonging to all of those pretentious, know-it-all "golden ear audiophiles". Anything more than this is a frivolous waste of your precious $$.


    Extra bonus points if you just buy one of these and connect it to your Lascalas.







    You should see what Roy uses to demo Jubilees! 

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  3. On 11/12/2023 at 12:35 AM, csajda said:

    Is there a kit out there that I can buy to replace which should be replaced on these heresy speakers that I bought originally in 1981?


    Any information on how to repair, refurbish and even test the existing components would be greatly appreciated.


    New to The forum, thanks


    There should be no need for a "rebuild".  If a driver is not working it can be repaired. 


    Test by putting you ear close to each driver to see if it's producing sound.  You can test DC resistance or continuity with a volt meter.  A good volt meter can detect AC voltage applied to the driver terminals to test the network, if a driver tests good, but is not playing.  That same good meter can test the network components, *IF* you can disconnect enough to test it alone. 


    Finally, if they sound recessed, laid back or "polite", consider replacing the capacitors with high quality film and foil caps as they may have gone off spec enough to affect the sound. 

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  4. 7 hours ago, Smitty8451 said:


    1:  What size is recommended for the La Scala AL5

    2:  Are these going to be powered, and if not how will the crossover I am assuming that will be included connect.

    3:  if a separate amp is required, what power is recommended.


    i currently run 3 La Scala’s F/C/R and Forte IV’s for surrounds, but usually I just do stereo listning.  I do not plan on using these new subs for movie watching (I have Rythmik subs for that) the subs will strictly be used for stereo.


    thank you in advance


    (we’re do I sign up for pre-order, yeah I’m that ready)


    The size, of the 4, should be selected by output and performance.  There is not a recommended La Scala match, but I'll pick Large.  You will not want or need additional subwoofers for any reason.  If I were you, I'd replace any direct radiator subwoofers you have with these.  They are easily special effects capable.  You will not regret it!  We were given impressive response curves and told a lot about the physics of the subs, that i won't discuss.  The Medium goes deep enough for any music, the Large should cover most LFE effects, if not all and the XL is likely brown note capable.  😆  Choose the additional subs for the max dB output you require.   They are powered, so you will not need an additional amp.  The amplifier power is surprisingly low and the embedded amp allows some control of distortion. 


    We were not given a release date, but speculation was not before Spring/Summer '24.  You have plenty of time to try to time the Market. 


    This is the Large.


    Large Sub.jpg

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  5. On 11/6/2023 at 7:48 AM, reyerbrandt said:

    Never would have thought, thanks for explaining that.

    Now I better understand JohnA's concern about identity theft.


    Serial numbers are fine.  Names, SSNs and DL numbers are not, now that internet based ID fraud is rampant.  (I hope VISA and grubhub go broke; they don't even try to prosecute.)  Your serial number is 17N159, the 16,159th Heresy made.  The wood is birch and the butt joints say they left the factory raw. the "Type" was most like HD-BR and a previous owner stained them.  Walnut? 


  6. On 11/1/2023 at 10:39 AM, bsacco1 said:

    I recently acquired some vintage 1980 LaScala's. I immediately called Klipsch to order a pair of fresh K33 woofers. 


    The crossovers were tired and I think leaking so I upgraded the x-overs. 


    After listening to the speakers they seemed too bright and a bit shrill with a tab bit of distortion.


    Is the answer as simple as Do I replacing my diaphragms in all my horns or is it a problem with the x-over?


    Please advise.


    Were your woofers damaged?  Did they rub or distort?  If not, you wasted money. 


    What made you think the crossovers were "tired"?  That a really unusual description that conveys little data.  Did the speakers sound distant, dull, forward?  The capacitors may have degraded after 40 years, and maybe not.  I had a '67 H700 that didn't need new caps and a '68 that did.  Since you did not state what you "upgraded", we can't begin to offer a guess.  I sincerely doubt your diaphragms need replacement.  My 1980 La Scalas have their original diaphragms (and woofers).  If they are deficient, I can't detect it.  In fact, the old, square magnet woofers are said to be a better match to the bass horn than the newer round magnet K-33s. 


    Now, there are improvements you might make to a La Scala that are too expensive or of too little benefit for the factory to implement but that is for another time. 

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  7. On 9/19/2023 at 3:41 PM, Scottsman said:

    I have a set from the 80's.  Bought them for a song...someone needed new warehouse space for their stadium equipment and asked for $400 for the pair.  :) 


    I noticed that the new ones seem to have a spacer between top and bottom cabinets.   Does this help?   Should I be looking at this and what the heck are the made of?   


    Also I see stands that people make on eBay...projecting them up and getting the older ones off the floor.   Any mods I should be thinking of.   BTW - they sound great for what I listen to - I love the jazz club vibe.


    Anything I should do to upgrade - but not going nuts here.   Musician but only casual audiophile...living on budget.




    The spacer is only for looks, like a Klipschorn Type B.  Since the new ones are MUCH heavier, 2 pieces makes moving them easier.


    Do not raise the bass horn off the floor (2 or 3 inches is insignificant), consider pushing them into corners.  The low bass is limited and the distance off the floor could raise the bottom limit even higher.  I have mine setting on subwoofers, but .... subwoofers. 


    There are a few worthwhile mods (PM me), but first, which crossover do you have?  What are your serial numbers? 


    If the sound is forward and out in the room, you do not need a cap upgrade.  If its laid back and "calm" you should consider it. 


    Here's a hint. 



  8. An opening is a perfect absorber at that location (no reflective surface). 


    Consider a larger rug that comes closer to your La Scalas.  Colorful rugs used as artful wall coverings at reflection points from the tweeter and squawker may be useful.  You might consider building panels from a 1" wood strips with A/C duct board in the center and wrapped with an attractive woven fabric.  They would resemble cubicle walls.  Place them at reflection points.  If your SO will accept it, add insulated drapes to the windows and perhaps 2x as much as the windows need so they'll bunch up thickly.  That is what I've done to the windows behind my La Scalas. 


    You probably won't need to do all of the above. 


    You can find your reflection points with a small flashlight placed against the front of the tweeter or squawker and angled like the sides of each horn. 


    I like a super dead room for Home Theater but a more reflective room for music with the wall behind the speakers reasonably non-reflective. 

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  9. And, in case it hasn't been plain, the La Scala bass horn is NOT a subwoofer.  Subwoofers operate from below 20 Hz to as high as 80 Hz.  Some can respond a little higher.  A La Scala bass horn will not go much below 60 Hz, even under the best of circumstances.  It will reproduce bass tones cleaner and clearer than most any other speaker.

  10. On 9/22/2023 at 6:24 AM, Bubo said:

    I glazed over

    Are we discussing the much sought after original driver that Kilpsch used in the LaScalas heresys etc ?

    Yes, and no.  the "much sought after" version has a Klipsch designed/modified phase plug and it is not available, new.  The mod improved HF output, likely at the expense of response or output below 400 Hz.  Since Atlas wants that 110 Hz low end for voice, they would not want to make the Klipsch version.


    If yes, I wasn't aware that Atlas was selling them.

    Phenolic or titanium or something else.

    Phenolic.  Still in production and Still used in La Scalas.  Ti makes lousy midrange drivers.  I'm not sold on it for tweeters, either. 


    I have a pair of the originals on my LaScalas

    Must be 40 years old

    Do the magnets need to be remagnitized


    No, not if they work.  There might be a half dozen places in this country that could.  If you have run 100 watts through them long enough to make them hot, or dropped them a few times, call Atlas and see it they will.   



    and do the phenolic diaphragms dry out losing flexibility ? 


    Change them and find out.  They don't dry out.  If your La Scalas haven't seen years of PA work, enjoy and be happy.  As well as I can tell, my '81 La Scala has it's original K-55-V.  


    Thanks in advance


    I realize, that the subject of different mid drivers is a bottomless discussion


    Since Atlas makes PA systems

    I believe that their driver offers superior speech intelligibility

    Where Klipsch is IMHO (and most theater owners)

    the best in the industry


  11. On 8/26/2023 at 3:05 PM, Tony Dennison said:

    I am loving the Heresies, but I see talk about upgrading the speakers. I currently am only vaguely interested in this topic, but what would I, or what would be the expected gain from doing this?


    I really can't see a need for any improvement, but if someone has done it....What happened?


    Thanks in advance.




    As new as they are, I'd expect you would ruin the sound.  Ask again in 30 years.

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  12. You may, or may not need new capacitors.  If the sound is not out in the room with you, consider it.  I had a '67 H700 that did not and a '68 that did.  I have an unproven theory that speakers used regularly will not need new caps as soon.  At any rate, install high quality film and foil caps.  They don't need to cost $250 each, but spend some coin. 


    One very good update, was the K-77-F version of the tweeter with a recessed flange that placed the mouth of the tweeter flush with the front of the motorboard (no more playing through a hole).  Not only does that eliminate the diffraction of the hole, but the tweeter itself responds to higher frequencies than the old AlNiCo tweeters you have.  That new tweeter is a modification of the ceramic K-77-M the factory went to in 1980.  The -F may be hard to find, but worth it.  The factory added "Z" brackets the the -M to do the same thing for a while, but that would require enlarging the tweeter hole in your top section. 

    • Like 1
  13. On 8/29/2023 at 4:49 PM, Scotty Mac said:

    Good day folks, 

    a while back I started a thread in a pair of Cornwall’s (minus woofers) that showed up in my shop. Since then, I have ordered and received the K33e woofers and determined they were a Gen 1 Cornwall but was unable to find a serial number anywhere.


    I finally started at the Cornwall’s the other day, I decided I was going to give the cabs another coat of Duratech and replace the insulation. So I removed the drivers and When I was pulling out the old blankets I found the original invoice under a blanket and yes, it has the serial numbers, can anyone tell me more about theses particular speakers? 

    also, I noticed I have two different klipsch tweeters, can anyone tell me which is original or “better”…? A friend has a spare square one and would trade for my round one which would give me a matching set but, I would rather the “better” tweeter if there is even a difference?





    The square magnet K-77-M Is the better tweeter, responding to higher frequencies.  Being newer than 1979, yours should have had the -Ms. 

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  14. On 8/24/2023 at 10:35 AM, Don in Dubuque said:

    I'm needing to recone/replace woofers in 2 1978 La Scala's. I need to do the same on 2 1969 Cornwall's vertical horn. What is my best option? I'd like to keep the original speaker frames. Do I just buy 4 Klipsch K33E replacements? @ $150-160 each.

    Or has anyone tried DIY recone kits I've seen available online?

    I think recone kits are $55-60 each bucks plus the needed adhesive. Another $10-15 each Plus shipping cost?  I'd say $80-90 in parts minus labor.




    1 pair 1969 Cornwall vertical horn in Walnut. Bought from Minnesota because the price was right.






    You're in like company here!


    Your '78s are likely made by Eminence in KY and they will have proper recone kits to restore them to OEM performance.  Eminence probably will not sell to you directly.  Look for a gray ink stamp number in the back side of the cones, 15162?.  Also look for the EIA build code.  It will be 67-xxxx; 67 for Eminence and xxxx for build week and year. 


    The '69s may not have Eminence woofers, you you will need to start with the EIA code and determine who made them.  However, early K-33-Es might well be a good match for the cabinet.  compare the dimensions of your cabinets to that of mid '70s Cornwalls.  If your woofers have failed, I'd recommend ebay for vintage replacements.  If you want new, consult Klipsch to see if the current K-33-E is a good match to your cabinet. 


    There is enough precision required that I would not DIY a recone.  I say this after reconing a pair of Peavey 1504-4 woofers built for quick, easy cone replacement in the field, requiring no gluing. 

  15. On 8/25/2023 at 6:49 PM, Mr. Lou said:

    The guy doesn't seem very tech savvy. I have a multimeter so I'll have to test it. What should it read impedance wise?


    As to the tweeter working, I thought it was. It may not have been or was and when the guy transported it home something came loose or a component gave out when he fired the speakers up at his place. They hadn't been used in some years.


    DCR for the tweeter should be 7.2 to 7.5 ohms.  If they are REALLY old and rated at 16 ohms, you might see 12 to 14 ohms.


    If you can hear scratching while rubbing the leads with the meter, it is most likely good.  A 1.5V battery is good for this test, too, but be sure to rub, don't hold the leads against the battery terminals.  Tweeters don't like DC. 

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  16. On 8/27/2023 at 9:19 AM, klipschhornfan said:

    Has anyone compared Heresy I (especially with alnico drivers) to IV?  Does the latest IV run circles around the I?  I'm asking because I have a pair of H1 with alnicos.  ........ Any thoughts?  Thanks. 


    Yes, H IVs run circles around H 1s (I had 7 at one time and still have 3 in my HT system).  H IVs are much more natural sounding and better on vocals, especially.  H IVs do not need a subwoofer, though open E on a double/electric bass is down a little compared to G, but not so much you might not think the song is recorded that way. 

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