mike stehr

Aarghgh!

Yeah, maybe I should post this in AA when I get up the courage. I made some passive x-overs for these speakers using the original schematic and the parts AL K. uses, still in the process of final tweaks. I like what I hear so far. THANX!

What is it that you hear about the Adcom changer that makes you want a outboard DAC, ED? Curious. (There are so many of these damn things to chose from, kits, tube types, non-oversampling, its scary.) Kelly, I've been down to Charlotte(Misspelled?) Nice folks down there, would have like to seen the coast. You were probably on the west side of Washington state when you were here last, next time you visit, check the San Juan islands, you won't regret it. I live on the east side near Spokane, nice parts up about 60 miles north of here. We went up last Saturday near Usk, they got a little more snow up there. We were near north/south Skookum lakes driving on the roads when we got stuck. You gotta pay attention to those little signs with snowmobiles on them, drove about 200ft on the trail and sank. We had fun though. (Sigh.) Maybe next year I'll stash some flow, and possibly find a tube kit to assemble. But I want it to be a good design with upgrading allowed in the design. I am not going to do this until I research the topic, to get a better feeling on how valves/circuits work. Only then I will feel comfortable enough to take such a venture. The close as I get to tube gear is a Carver sda/490t 'Vacuum reference' cd player, that I tortured with mods. MERRY CHRISTMAS!

Aw man, I pretty much agree with you on the this subject. main amps go in the wall, everything else on filter/surge, or nothing. Save a trip and just send the amp (my stereo isn't worth the trip), I can use it on the mid and high horns on my Chorus II's. Donate to the Audio challenged, I'll send ya beer money. MERRY CHRISTMAS!

Howdy! I have no plans of doing this currently, I'm just curious of the opinions of others. What if a guy took a Chorus II, split up the passive X-over so the Bass circuit is separate from the mid tweeter circuit, bi-wire the Chorus II, and then use a Solid State amp on the Bass section, with a tube amplifier on the mid/high section. Would this be of much sonic benefit? If one did not want to use passives, you could go active crossovers. But IMO, a tube x-over would be best for the valve amp, so passives seem like a more economical choice. It would not take much to power the mid and tweeter horn. Seem like a dumb idea? Opinions? THANX! MERRY CHRISTMAS!

It's bulls**t! He 'ain't gonna give that amp to nobody! Don't hurt to try, LOL!

I think its around 40 50 hertz, Deang. Ear's goin' for some SS's! Right on Ear! I hope things work out for ya on this venture. Four SS's! nuts! make sure to power them with 4 separate mono blocks now! Enough bass to !

Okay Kelly, How could someone 'SHOW' you how their amplication device can benefit from a filtration device or surge protection, on a public forum, without actually listening to the system with or without the devices in a A/B type listening session? HUH? Maybe I should recant on the Live music thing, due to the fact the most rock concerts have giant PA systems with many amps, mixers, condtioners, etc...etc...etc...... It does give your last question merit. Allright, say you and a buddy are at a classical/Jazz concert or whatever with no sort of amplification whatsoever. What sort of thing does 'tuned ears' listen for here? Acoustics? It still boils down to subjectivity, if you and the buddy disagreed on how the presentation sounded. RIGHT? Hell, I just have all my stuff plugged to the wall, amps in one receptacle and the rest in another, though they are the same circuit. I don't hear anything, unless you two inches from the speaker. (Chorus II's are not that great of nearfeilds anyway.) My problem is popping through the system, from the fridge, dryer, washer switching. I want to address these at the sources with maybe a s**tload of ferrite washers on the cords of the appliances themselves, its worth a try. It's cool Mobile, I have to respect a background like that of yours. But you were getting a little big-headed there, no? Now gimme that amp! I'll gladly pay for shipping! THANX!

I'm not much help, but I had a pair of Boston HD5's once. I used a older Yamaha M-50 or something power amp. Those bookshelf's only got so loud, no matter how much you crank up the amp, then the amp would clip through them. I eventually swapped 'em for a pair of Sansui Sp-X9's, A 5-way with metal 12 ohm horns. (Mid-eighties speakers.) I think they are 98Db sensitivity, made a lot of difference in the loud factor, over those bookshelfs. I also have a pair of Sansui SP-2000's circa'70 from Japan. These things are relics, but they have their own sound to them though. THANX!

Kevin, Just tell Kelly his system sounds pretty damn good from your house. "Until your ears are tuned". What the hell does that mean? Does one have to have tuned ears to percieve absolute sound? Music tastes vary, how does this relate with 'tuned' hearing? A live event is the best source IMO, how does tuned ears relate with this? If Kevin and you were at the same live event, and you thought the event sounded bad, is this beacause of your tuned ears? And if Kevin thought the event sounded bad, and you think it sounds great, would you tell Kevin he's full of s**t because his ears are not tuned? Where do you get your ears tuned BTW, is there a course? Music and Audio are too subjective of a topic to say those sort of things, IMHO. My ears are my ears, your ears are yours, if you have 'tuned' ears, so what? It's pointless, because they are not my ears. No offense Kelly, while I agree with you on the power filter/surge protection opinions in general, that last post to me is just a egomanic braggin' about his gear with no intention of giving any sort of realistic advices.(If realistic advice was even intended from the start.) Sorry 'bout that.

Find a large old growth hardwood tree out in the forrest, at least 42' to 45' complete diameter, cut it down, get the select chunk you need, figure how tall you want the enclosure. Get all the bark, etc.. from the outside of the chunk. Find a BIG lathe, smooth out the outside, then carve out the center,leaving around 4' for thickness of the enclosure, smooth it all out, then cap the ends, should be plenty of wood left. Then use four 18 incher's of whatever preference, break out your favorite speaker design software, install in either end, then port out the other end,(I'm sure it will take more than one port.) Build a pedestal of some sort for the bottom, it will probably need caster wheels. Finish the enclosure with whatever choice, IMO, natural finish with about a million coats of laquer. There, now that's the most non-practical, way over budget, DIY subwoofer project that I can imagine. THANX!

I know Diggs, yer just joshin'! I like this smilie things.... I went out and got real drunk Then I got real High Then I got sick Ear, as much of a subwoofer nut you are, I'm suprised that you haven't built one or had someone else build one. They sky is the limit for DIY subs, you seen the world's largest horn subwoofer. I'm happy with SVS!

Thanks for the correction Gil. I'm still a little Audio challenged. IMO, to get the best out of a biwire speaker, is to toss the passive x-over and use another amp with a active crossover. Then you can tweak between high and low with the active crossover. But I just built some passive x-overs, so what am I talking about?! THANX!

Now you have 4 posts for 'A' left and right, and 4 posts for 'B' left and right. Right? If you hook one the speaker's upper and lower terminal's to the Reciever's 'A' left and right terminal posts, then the balance will be through the high and low end of the speaker itself, The tweeter/mid would be left, and the woofer would be right or vise versa depending on how it's wired. The same with the other side if it were configured on 'B' left and right posts. I think if you did this way, when you adjust your balance you would get tweeter/mids on the right, and woofers on the left, or a woofer on one side with a tweeter/mid on the other, again depending how it is wired. When you use A and B terminals together, its like two channel with extra posts, and the Receiver's amp will indicate what impedances allowed when configured this way. You could try it this way, Kinda throws me. I would take tweeter/mid left and right speaker terminals put them on left and right 'A' Reciever terminals, and then the woofer left and right speaker terminals to the 'B' left and right terminals on the Receiver, as you previously mentioned. So when you hit just the 'A' speaker switch, you have just mid and highs, when you hit 'B' switch you just have woofers, this way your balance works out right. Man, I hope this helps.

Oh Forrest, how I wish I lived in a town that didn't have a inbred view towards decent home audio. The only assumed hi-end joint in town is mid-end at best, and the salesmen are little punks with no knowledge beyond being what they are told to sell. That leaves a guy with low-end joints like Best Buy, Circuit City, Magnolia Hi-Fi. Hell, Magnolia Hi-Fi's Hi-end is low-end Krell. 'Ain't goin' there! The Supposed Hi-end joint doesn't even have any Valve amplifiers, Maybe, and if they do, the gear is WAY overpriced, I'm sure of that! So I have to drive to the west side of the state 400 miles to find any High-end Audio Dealers to listen to Demos. I agree with you, A guy needs to listen to the products. But you have to admit, the Net is a Hell of better Resource than some Bulls**t reveiw mag. I know there is good review mags but then you have find and buy them. A guy would be better off learning about Audio at the Library around here. pretty Lame.

You Noticed I wrote: 'Get pretty fast' I'm no Honda fan, Trust me. Gran Turismo Oglamoto!!!!!!!!!!!!! (probably spelled that wrong!) I think this thread just officially burned out.

You mean using both A and B terminals together? It should work, all it does is convert the Reciever's amp to series. Just make sure to check the manual to see if the impedance is okay in this configuration. Should be, it's series. Surface contact area is important with wires, with spades first, banana jacks second, and then bare wire termination. This might help. THANX!

OOPS! It was late last night,It was the LEFT side that sounded better over the stock crossover. Sorry about that! The only way I can show pics, is if I buy a disposable camera, take them, have them processed, then scan them up. (Or drew up some diagrams of the upgrade.) Our Computer buddy had a Digital camera, But I think he got rid of it. (Wait a minute, Heidi just bought a disposable camera, it has a few pics left, I'll see what I can do.) I'll figure up the list for the time being. You showed the most interest, that's why I am letting you know how it goes. THANX!

Happy Birthday! (Quote from Frosty the Snow Man.)

Okay Mike, so I'm a day late, Christmas tree project got in the way. I managed to finish ONE crossover, and hooked it up into my stereo on the left side, with the stock crossover still hooked up to the right side. They seem to match up well, with the right side a little more cleaner and detailed, not by much, %20? The Bass improved in clarity, I noticed this. I used twisted(Gomer recipe Tweak) CAT5e Teflon network wire. Configured 12AWG for mains, then the same for internal speaker wire only configured 12AWG for woofer, 13 or 14AWG for Squawker, then 15AWG for tweeter. All jump wires on the crossover are CAT5e Configured for each driver, 12, 13, 15 etc.. When I fired things up, it was on the BRIGHT side, tweeter mostly, and thought I may have to pad it down with a resistor. But after a hour it seemed to calm down, or my ears got used to it. I've been through this before with new crossover caps and new wire.(Bright at first use.) It's going to take QUITE a few hours for all this to break in. But I like what I'm hearing so far, the Tubes 'Young and Rich' sounded pretty damn good! The crossover is not in the Cabinet yet, I want to order some more capacitors for the Squawker. The Solen sounds fine bypassed with Harmonys, but I tried a Madisound Carli metalized Polyester (A supposed inferior cap BTW,) and it seemed to smooth out the Squawker better than the Solen. But it was a lower value, so I can't make much judgement until I order the proper value. (It did roll off kinda low.) There is still some tweaking involved, but the Solen/Harmony's on the Squawker sounds fine actually, I just want to experiment some more. I ain't buying Hovlands! I Emailed you a Schematic, I'll try to list the parts I upgraded to, and prices. I didn't really budget this to well, Oh well. It was something to do. Better get the other one finished! I'll post parts and more Tomorrow, I'm tired!

Foghat was the first concert I ever went too. Seen Sabbath with Van halen, BOC, AC DC and Aerosmith, When Bon Scott was alive: Yes in the round, Rush, Nazereth,ZZ top, Ted Nugent, and who knows what else I can't recall. I'm the kind of guy that will listen to Carole King and then turn around and listen to Slayer. I like variety. THANX!~

Sure.

OOPS! My mistake!

Chorus has a 12' woofer and passive radiator, the II's have a 15' woofer and passive. I thought the squawkers are the same. As far as differences, I don't know. My guess is the Chorus has a little tighter bass due to 12 incher's, and the II's get lower and deeper due to 15'incher's. I just don't know. THANX!

Well, as long as my Chorus II's can handle industrial strength Metal, which they do. Jazz should not be a problem. I am gettin' older, pushin' 40, and getting into other forms of music, but deep down I am still just a headbanger and probably always will be. It was the popular music in my High school Daze. I'm gonna check into Davis's 'Kind of Blue' though for sure. THANX!