fabulousfrankie

---------------- On 1/26/2004 5:55:55 PM Professor.Ham.Slap wrote: Hey, thanks for all the links and help I appreciate it. I think I'm tossing around the idea of making one of them sealed and one of them ported (I have two of the drivers) to dig to around 18-20hz to get that RSW slam you mentioned (because I listened to them before and really liked the way they sound). pehaps this would get me the best of both worlds? ---------------- I would keep both the same design, otherwise one sub will need more power to reach the same levels as the other. I'd would tune somewhere like 20-25Hz if you want punch. JJ recommended 5ft^3 tuned to 22Hz to many people, a 6" straight vent(PVC works fine) would come to 27.75" long for that alignment.

---------------- On 1/24/2004 4:15:10 PM MrMcGoo wrote: The RW-12 uses a tuned port. The RSW-12 uses a passive radiator, so there will be no port noise. ---------------- Besides just port noise, at higher volumes the air may not be able to flow freely in and out of the port and you start to loose output down low if your port isn't big enough.

When went to buy the fabric to cover my 6' sonosubs the lady asked what I was buying the fabric for and I said to cover some speakers...you should have seen the look on her face:).

Feel free to PM me or email me at fabulousfrankie@hotmail.com if you have any design or build questions along the way.

---------------- On 1/25/2004 3:45:14 PM Professor.Ham.Slap wrote: It's been awhile, but college has finally given me a break and I'd like to start building a sonotube enclosure for my AV=15 drivers. My question is, I have no clue where to start. I know where to get the materials but I'm having trouble figuring out how exactly to tune the beast. I want it ported, so I was thinking two pieces of PVC running down from the top. The trouble is, I have no idea how long to make the ports or how to get the enclosure to the proper size... The last thing I want is for that thing to have large peaks somewhere in the spectrum. Although I do plan on adding some batting to help with resonances and what not. Anyway, here's the specs I want to shoot for: 18-20hz tuning and size isn't really an issue. ---------------- The 250L 17Hz tune is Stryke's recommended EBS alignment, this means you'll sacrifice output at higher freq's in exchange for higher output down low. With EBS you generally get better transient response as well but this comes at the lack of perceived punch(like what the RSW subs have). Designing a sub is all about trade offs and what you're willing to live with and what you're willing to lose. Each of mine are 265L(effective) tuned to 16.3Hz but thats not using the new MkII woofer which works in smaller enclosures. John Janowitz says dual 4" flared ports will work fine but since I'm kind of a nut I used a 8" Quikrete conrete tube form in each(full 4' length to get the tune I wanted). I've been thinking of taking some polyfill out and trimming the port to tune around 18-19Hz for a little more punch. Have you played with it in a modeling program like WinISD yet(it's a free download) or is it just the dimensions part you need help with? If you already have an alignment in mind and just need help with the dimensions this link should be everything you need: http://www.quux.net/roo/diy/sonosub/sonocalc.html I've double checked it's answers to make sure it's accurate.

---------------- On 1/25/2004 8:48:03 PM kev313 wrote: Home theater is now coming together. Can't wait until the PC-U goes into the 12x13 room. ohhh...that's gonna be a lot of bass! ---------------- I'm sure you'll be happy with it, unless you're related to TheEAR.... I had a single CS Ultra/Samson S1000 in a 12'*13'*8' room for some time and I was thrilled with it's performance.

TheEar summed it up well. There are other ways to get similar performance with traditional subwoofers, but they usually come with a significantly larger enclosure.

Are you referring to the spider?

I can't remember exactly where I saw it, but someone used dixie cups to elevate his wires...much cheaper:).

---------------- On 1/23/2004 10:26:58 PM krisp_01 wrote: "Groundbreaking...not really, but it's very good for it's size. Anybody know what the street price on the sub is...I know the MSRP?" The street prices on the seismic 12" that i got were $2000 CDN from one place and $1800 CDN from another. Both prices are in Canadian so im not sure if that helps but there they are. And btw I think the sub is pretty astonishing or groundbreaking and it can hold its own very well, its hard to ask for alot more for the same price range. Kris P. ---------------- It does hold its own very well and I don't want to take anything away from it's performance. Canadian's usually get break on the Paradigm pricing as well.

I can't offer much on the comparison, but I just want to give one interesting fact on the FSR and HGS subs. The FSR15 actually fared a tiny bit better in distortion limited testing than it's succesor, the HGS15...the HGS series enclosure got ~20% smaller so that is what probably accounts for the difference. The difference is pretty small though. Velodyne FSR-15 - 109.1dB / 16hz~90.1__25hz~103.1dB Velodyne HGS-15 - 107.7dB / 16hz~89.1__25hz~102.1dB Klipsch RSW-15 - 112dB / 20hz~97dB__32Hz~112dB http://members.cox.net/frankcarter/Tom%20Nousaine%20Sub%20Data.htm

---------------- On 1/23/2004 1:48:49 PM Dog88 wrote: I've heard conflicting opinions on the quality of the cable that should be used to connect the receiver to the subwoofer. One friend insists on buying expensive, high quality wire and says anything less will sacrifice sound quality. Another says that is overkill and a standard mono cable with RCA jacks will do just fine for the subwoofer. What is the opinion here? My sub is about 15 ft from the receiver and there is a big cost difference between the two options above. ---------------- Any well shielded wire will do the trick, I had some quad-shield RG-6 laying around that guys left when they installed our cable, I just went out to Radio Shack a pair of these to screw on each end, works wonderfully. http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=278-252

---------------- On 1/23/2004 6:47:23 PM SteelerFan wrote: "< >Has anyone compared these two subs........ These are the only two I am interested in, Because I already own the SVS, But always wondered if I am missing something by not getting the RSW-15." My question is why not consider the PB2-ISD? I mean if you are thinking about having two subs? I imagine (I'm only surmising, I've never heard either sub) the PB2 might give the RSW a real run for it's money as far as punch for music is concerned and it's about half the price (retail). I'm sure there are those on this forum who have heard both and hopefully will chime in. ---------------- Steelerfan, That's a very good idea. On a strictly objective basis, a PB2-ISD should perform better than a RSW-15. A PB2-ISD would offer only a marginal difference compared to what you have now though, I think the PB2-Plus would offer you the punch you're looking for. I say that because generally the higher you tune the more midbass you get and the more perceived "punch" there is. I've also done a little experimenting with my eq trying to mimic the upper end response curve of the RSW-15 graph from the old Hometheaterhifi.com review. It does added a ton of punch to my Stryke AV15's which are close to an EBS alignment, and this alignment has the least amount of punch. I saved it as one of my presets and kept it like that for a while, but to my ears keeping the response flat still sounds best. Sometime this weekend I want to play a little more and save a preset to have a curve that looks like an upside down catenary.

Another few other drivers to consider are the Blueprint 03 series from www.audioliquidators.com, they've even made their version of the 1803 called the AL1804, it's an 18" with right over 25mm one way Xmax for $260 shipped, the 15" has the same excursion and costs $175 plus S&H.

---------------- On 1/22/2004 1:56:56 PM smilin wrote: Frankie, I appreciate your offer in getting the B4-plus working just right, today the top tech from Tweeter is coming over to install the new equipment and move the sub again, hopfully making it sound right. I will let you know either later tonight or tomorrow. Thanks again Smilin ---------------- Not a problem, let me know how it goes. It's pretty obvious that room acoustics are to blame, all SVS' are made with a flat response so if it's not flat anymore it's due to the room(which is expected unless your HT is an anechoic chamber). Didn't you get purchase the Rane eq along with the B4?

---------------- On 1/22/2004 1:39:26 PM heyu wrote: I have been around for a long time, but don’t post much. I have a question. What message does it send to you about Klipsch when they let you talk, sale and push forum members and viewers into using another co.'s product on the Klipsch web site? 1. That klipsch is so "big" that the sales lost to this are so small that it does not matter. 2. That Klipsch thinks that the other co.'s product is better. 3. That Klipsch does not know this is going on. 4. That Klipsch is such a confident leader in the industry that they can hold to their "open forum" policy even if they may loose some sales. ---------------- I think 1 and 4 are true.

---------------- On 1/21/2004 5:27:06 PM klipschomatic wrote: This is not an SVS forum, it is a Klipsch Forum. With the amount of SVS stuff in this section of the forum I am beginning to wonder how many of you guys are on their payroll? The Klipsch subwoofers are designed to go with Klipsch speakers, same driver types, same design philosophies. When you look at the Klipsch subs, they are intent on creating a design that can keep up with the high efficiency that Klipsch speakers provide. Otherwise you end up outrunning the subwoofer with your fronts. Sure you can go to some tube sub, but then those are all about output. I would highly recommend going with a Klipsch Sub with Klipsch speakers, they are designed to go together. ---------------- This is a powered subwoofer forum and we're talking subwoofers so stop complaining. I get tired of these thread's, they seem to pop up every few months. You tell me where it says that we can't talk about other brands. SVS has gained popularity because they offer subwoofers with high output, great extension, and verifiable low distortion all at extremely reasonable pricing. Rob, I feel cheated...I have to get 15 clients before I get my free SVS.

One other thing I forgot to mention, if you look to the right of a few subs you'll see a little number...just put your mouse pointer over and a little popup box will come with some relevant info on the sub.

---------------- On 1/21/2004 8:19:32 AM CO1 wrote: Nice to see Tom has done some testing on the latest version of the PW-2200 which has since moved up the list from the original version. Great cheap slam, especially for Canadians. ---------------- Actually it's not the latest version of the PW2200. I was in the process of updating the list with all the FR data I could find and I found a more recent review than what was on the list(from some time in 2001). The 25-62Hz ave went up a less than 1dB but the 20Hz figure dropped a full 7dB...maybe Paradigm tuned it higher?

As long as you don't want to build your own sub, I think it's the best for the money.

---------------- On 1/20/2004 7:23:01 PM DaddyDee wrote: I'd recommend the Cambridge Soundworks P1000 or P500. I've got the 1000 and it is killer. It also has remote control, very handy and can be dialed in for your system in an easy setup. ---------------- To be honest, if the P1000 has a price/performance ratio like the P500, I'd look elsewhere. I'll be upfront and say I haven't heard the subs and this is based purely on 3rd party measurements so some will say "measurements can't tell you how a sub sounds" but when you consider that the $800 P500 is the 8th from the bottom in a list close to 120 subs doesn't make me feel confident that the P1000 will be good. Nousaine list

---------------- On 1/20/2004 5:34:36 PM companion wrote: Are there any sub's that have the same performance as the 25-31 pc plus for less money or is that about as cheap as it will get for a good sub ---------------- I think the only thing is DIY. Before the intro prices on the Stryke site went up, you could have pieced together a finished Thunder 12 enclosure with an AV12 and PR's but it's not as economical any more.

---------------- On 1/20/2004 1:41:59 PM Frzninvt wrote: I am using a Kicker L5-15 DVC as my second sub with a DBX BX-3MkII bridged to 400W+ in a big ported enclosure made of 1" HDF made by R/T Enclosures. The funky square 15" has the displacement of a round 18". This thing can certainly generate some nice smooth bass and compliments the Velodyne nicely. It performs in the 80 - 25Hz range and then the Velo can take it into the teens. So I think a good car subwoofer in a proper enclosure with good amplification can perform well in a home environment. ---------------- It definitely can work, I've had good results with a CV car woofer in my home, but if you haven't bought a woofer yet, it is best to buy a woofer suited to home use. The brands to check out are: Adire Stryke Dayton Blueprint(audioliquidators.com)

I saw those and I'm considering getting two of them to put two Tangband 8's in my car.

I tried damping the horns in my KLF20's and KLFC7 with rubberized undercoating and I can't really tell a difference.