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Posts posted by NBPK402
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You can take a high rez pic and then upload it to a online service like Photobucket (which is free) and then resize it to whatever size you want and then just post the link in the thread.
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Audible Illusions 2B, C, or D would be a nice one...
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I will go for them if he has decided to ship them... I only need 2 but I will take all three.
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If you still have these let me know... If you are willing to ship to Northern California.
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These are the ones I was looking for.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JBqR1vfrnNg
I sent him a PM as I think they would be close enough for my LaScala, HIP setup.
Thanks for the link. The HIP are going to be hard to find one pair let alone 2 pairs.
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I would like to cover the whole garage door and it is 96" tall and around 250" wide. Can you get Spandex in a single piece that big?
You do realize that will be a 267" diagonal.
For comparison, using projector central's Calculator Pro, my projector is recommended for 111" at 14'. For every 7" of diagonal, I need an extra 1' in throw distance. So for me to even get a 267" size, my projector would need to have a 35' throw distance.
You will need a light canon to be able to project an image that large.
Not to mention any AT screen will reduce the brightness even further.
What I want to do is cover the whole door opening with the screen and then get some black Spandex to trim out the screen... This way my LaScalas will have an unobstructed path for the bass bins too. I will be going for a 150"-170" screen size. I noticed that Seymour has a 1.3 gain AT screen so I don't think it will be too bad as I am on a 1.1 gain Jamestown 134" screen now. I have also thought about going with 2 BenQ w1070 projectors stacked for 3D use. I think 2 of them stacked would be way more than I could ever need even with 3D. When we start building the HT room I will put the meter on the screen and see how it looks and then weigh my options to get the big screen as bright as needed.
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PM sent for 2 pair quote.
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I am looking for another pair or two of Klipsch Heresy Industrial HIP speakers... All black with no metal trim. Does anyone have some for sale?
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I just looked and it looks like I can get a Seymour AT screen for the required size and it is not a bad price at all.
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yeah you will probably notice them. Theater screens are designed to sit much further away from. Spandex is where it's at for diy. My screen seems like it's spandex but for 250$ shipped for a 106" I'd rather not have had to build a frame myself or come up with a tension system.If I'd used a chainsaw - you'd be able to see my smile from Russia! The rest of those screens are going down with the bulldozer when they demo it. Hopefully some other folks will take advantage! They are pretty healthy perforations - I will be curious to see if it will even be usable in HT or too distracting. May have to go with Wake's Spandex screen idea.
I never thought about the holes being too big. The problem is if I want to go with Spandex... How wide of a piece can you get? I would like to cover the whole garage door and it is 96" tall and around 250" wide. Can you get Spandex in a single piece that big?
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I contacted them and I am waiting for a price shipped to me. This is going to make a killer screen wall!
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I would love a piece of the AT screen, but I am in California. I would be willing to send PayPal to someone if the could get me some and ship to me in California. Looking for a 100" x 250" of screen material (that way I can make my whole wall a screen).
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AT screen material would be nice to have... I would be interested in some for a 170" screen if you get it and have extra you wouldn't mind shipping to California.
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It was 25 degrees last night in Northern California.
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You can always get a www.photobucket.com account (it's free). Just get an account and upload to them and then copy and paste one of the links to the image (on the right side of the page) to your message here.
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My wife got me the Bond 50 collection, so we are watching 1 Bond movie per night plus whatever other movie we have... Last night we watched Bridesmaid and Thunderball.
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If the cabinets are solid but beat up, yes, smooth them out and put on veneer, or do a black paint job on them. A layer of 1/4 inch on the outside would tighten them up and they would resonate less, generally a good thing. The newest models are 1 inch mdf, so you would be moving closer to the way they are now.
Bruce
My $500 pair had bondo spots all over them... I sanded the bondo flat and then painted them black for the time being till they are behind a AT screen.
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I saw where someone got some 1/2" birch plywood (you could use 1/4"), and attached it to the outside left, top, and right side of the exterior on the cabinets. Then they made a grill for the front and they looked like brand new speakers! The side benefit was that adding 1/2" plywood to the exterior stiffened up the cabinet more, not to mention it was pretty cheap to do.
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If you match drivers and other factors and made one sub vented and the other sealed, the sealed sub will start to drop off higher and have a less impressive low end. The sealed box will almost be twice as large and thus more efficient. Room gain starts around 40 Hz. The longer the room, the less the gain according to this formula: C is the speed of sound and L is the length of the room
C/2*L
1130/2* 20=28.5 Hz so you will start gain 12 db/octave starting at 28.5.. This mean at 14Hz you will be up 12 db. Room gain is not boundary gain which is usually 2-5 db. If the length is 30 ft : 1130/2*30= 18 Hz. So you will be up 12 db at 9 Hz. So the gain is less and, this room gain has a greater effect on sealed subs. In large rooms it is better to get a sub that is vented and not chase after the low end since it will be harder to acheive. Getting drivers with more excursion can lead to more distortion. A sealed sub may have a higher low end than a vented sub below it tunning since the vented sub output will drop off like a rock in free fall, lol. Even more wattage will not solve everything. I can't get peak performance out of my Chase subs because even the most demanding movies only come close to using the 800 watt/ RMS and nowhere near the 1600 watt peak usage. With OHF/ Oblivion require no more than 600-700 watts during the most intense scenes at reference level. To get the peak performance I would have to do some type of sweep to see the watts peak near 1600, which is not needed for HT.
The main reason I have sealed subs is due to their size compared to having vented subs with 18 in. drivers. I like subs with a good mid bass thump ( 40-80 Hz) since I have a large room and the compromise is on the low end. Some of the new movies have stuff in the 3-10 Hz region and sealed sub can reproduce this with the right driver and power supply. A ported sub can be damaged trying to get more output below it's tunning which is usually around 20-25 Hz for good ported sub. Some vented subs may go down to 15 Hz..
The Triax benefits from 3 drivers, sealed, and a powerful amp. It is definetly a LFE moster.
I think we cracked our hardwood floor with the TRIAX... I noticed the other day that we now have a crack in the floor (running along the edge of the board) about 6' from the Triax. I don't know for sure that it was caused by the Triax but it developed a week after the Triax was installed (during which time we had cranked it up for a couple of minutes).
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Eighty watts per channel should be enough.
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I don't see one for $75... It says $91.33. I guess the deal is gone already.
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A couple of more things to look out for...
1: Never pay anyone with a Debit card unless it stays in your sight.
2: When you give a Waitress your CC always check that they gave the same card back to you! There have been a lot of cases where they scan your card and upload the info at the cash register and give you someone elses card back so you don't know what has happened until it is to late.
KP 115 Rebuild
in Klipsch Pro Audio
Posted
Any progress?