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CANT

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Everything posted by CANT

  1. Yes, I've seen it done but it is not a drop-in mod... 1. The cut out isn't quite right and would need to be slightly enlarged 2. You'd have to cut the top and bottom of the horns mounting flange and drill new mounting holes to make it fit 3. You'd have to at least slightly adjust the crossover network (K77 is louder than the K76) You can also contact Klipsch about getting a replacement diaphragm? People seem to forget this is an option some times... They used to sell them for about $50ea. I would pass on pretty much all of the aftermarket diaphragms.
  2. I've actually been wanting to try out a KPT-310-HF/KPT-310-N2 setup with these boxes... Not sure where to order the parts though?
  3. I think it's more than just a cost issue... you have to remember the HIII went from 700Hz to 850Hz with no change to the midrange horn. The changes to the HIII and CWII networks may result in better response curves, may sound better, may protect the driver diaphragm from damage better, etc. The Ti diaphragm change likely came with it's own series of compromises as well? Objectively, it seems to be faster and more articulate but may not safely go as low (I believe the output is roughly the same)? One would have to imagine that the engineers poured over their options and played around with various designs before settling on what became the production model. I would also add that Roy has spoken at length in various places/posts about the reasoning behind the CWIII... so with that in mind, I believe some general trust is required. In the end, the CWIII may not be the most advanced version of it's design concept but may be the best series of compromises needed to achieve the goal at the heart of the project.
  4. Yes. And while it does seem to be a common talking point, I'm not quite sure it should be considered a criticism? I owned a single CWIII before purchasing the Cornwalls I mentioned above, in fact that single speaker is why I bought the pair. Over a period of time, after that purchase, I listened and compared the 2 generations and over all preferred the CWIII... so when an opportunity to purchase a pair of crossovers came my way, it absolutely seemed like a worthwhile venture. I also consider it absurd to denigrate the CWIII (crossover) for a 200Hz change without fully reviewing the implementation. There is a lot more going on in that network then just that change. Like anything else in this world though this a preferential opinion and I can wholly understand some one preferring a B series or CWII if they'd already spent a number of years with them? Edit: I really need to not reply to thing with my phone... sigh
  5. So, I've bee slowly working on a pair of Cornwalls I bought a few years back... My first mod was to replace the K77's with K107's and the B3 network's with CWIII's. Then I later replaced the K601 horn with a K604T and rounded the horn/woofer baffle cut out's. So far, I've left all of the drivers and horns rear mounted because that's the way they came and I do like the look but I have recently wondered if they might not sound better front/flush mounted? Also, after playing around with my Frankenstein Heresy's I've been wondering if I should maybe switch out the K107's for K704T's and a driver yet to be determined? Due to the irreversible nature of this type of mod and my indecisive nature, I thought I would ask for opinions... Go.
  6. Just as a heads up, I think I'm going to put these on ebay this weekend...
  7. I've actually just recently played around with these... switched the horn/driver combinations... K704T+D220Ti Tweeter K703+K55 Squawker K28E Woofer I originally wanted to wait until I had an extra pair of K52H to try this (I don't think the K55 is a good fit) but it doesn't sound too bad?
  8. I was just using what I had lying around... I also wasn't looking to add any significant volume to the enclosure.
  9. Another fun fact (opinion): This driver appears to be (rather obviously) based on the Electro Voice DH1506 / DH2 family of design... in fact you can swap the snouts (compression chamber/diaphragm) and magnet assemblies of this driver and the K-60-M/DH1506 (I did once for fun). My guess is that they rather liked the EV driver (obviously used it for the K-60-M) but needed it to be significantly lighter for the CF series applications.
  10. From a manufacturing standpoint it would make little cost sense for the driver of these 2 assemblies to be different... not that it couldn't happen, there would just have to be a good justification for it like the potential benefits of using a different diaphragm material or impedance (4 vs 8 vs 16 ohm). In this situation though the drive of the 63 and 64 are both 8 ohm nominally and both utilize a rather special/proprietary aluminum diaphragm.
  11. K-63-KN and K-64-KN are the assembly numbers for the horn and driver combinations. Similar to the K-53-Ti being the assembly number for a K-52-Ti driver and a K701 horn... older examples would be: K-53-K = K-52 & K701 K-57-K = K-52 & K601 Much of the readily available information on these assemblies was lost when Klipsch deleted the old spec pages from their website.
  12. I collected a few of these a while back to play with... never ended up using any them... They were all labeled K-64-KN so they were originally used/meant to be used in the CF-2 with a K703 horn. You likely already know but in case you don't, this is the exact same driver used in the K-63-KN (CF-3 and CF-4) it was just mated to a K603 horn in that assembly. Speaking of used/meant to be used... I am not fully aware of this guys past life/lives. I know what little I did with it and that the driver still test good but can't say with any certainty how new or used it actually is... just trying to be honest. Driver is dated Nov 4 1995 I have this currently listed on ebay for $130 shipped within the continental US (I would prefer not to ship internationally) Side note: I actually have a CF-2 crossover lying around in the garage somewhere if some one might be interested in that too... no horn though Edit: All of these have been sold off as of Feb 2018
  13. Go on eBay and look for 1011956, it's the closest I could come at a glance to fitting your request... not sure much of an upgrade it would actually be though? Those new tweeters are usually glued in and a pita to remove too.
  14. I have actually also played with driver/network variation in a Cornwall cab and would add that, in said application, one should also be careful about assumptions... If you searching the forum for other posts related to swapping/changing various drivers in Cornwalls you will see what I am talking about.
  15. It's honestly been too long now for me to remember and I don't think I took notes or anything... I just remember looking at the fairly straightforward crossover of the KLF20 and the parts I had lying around and thinking "why not give it a go"? I also remember being somewhat surprised by how poorly the experiment came out and wondering if it had anything to do with the rather drastic difference between the exit of the driver (0.7" if I remember correctly) and the beginning of the horn throat (1") and the rather short/shallow design of the K703? To be fair I should also mention that I didn't really care all that much for the KLF20's in general. I heard many good things and I am glad I got a chance to own/play with a pair but in the end I wasn't exactly sad to see them go...
  16. You are talking about the difference between the E and E2... The E2 came about as Klipsch was phasing in the K52/K53 to replace the K55 in the Heresy before the HII model change occurred. The E just had a 2.5mH inductor on the woofer while the E2 went with a 4.0mH inductor followed by a 33uF capacitor. If I remember correctly this change was made to decrease the amount of over lap between the squawker and woofer within the midrange due to the slight higher/different output of the K52/K53. The previous owner of your speaker might have seen the capacitor change and not understood its design, while opting to add it or he/she may have just thought the cap might help/fix a perceived issue by way of some prior accumulated/unrelated knowledge? Either way it appears you have a E network as well as all the components that should go with it so that capacitor should not be there.
  17. I tired it once for fun on a pair of KLF20's and did not like it... also tried a University SAHF... over all I wouldn't really consider these drivers generically swap-able
  18. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/159251-k107ti-vs-k77m/#comment-2012265 You'll need to convert your crossover to either a CWII or Chorus... neither of which is all that hard to do really....
  19. 2 x 28 ohm/25 watt Parallel 50 uF 250V + 30 uF 250V Parallel 6.0mH DCR < .8 ohm (IC) 6.0mH DCR < .8 ohm (IC)
  20. Ive been meaning to share these for a while but I'm kinda lazy... K703+D220Ti Tweeters K700+K55 Squawkers K28E Woofers X Crossovers (not going there right now) I really like how they turned out!
  21. I don't have as many as I used to but I've been collecting random parts for a while... Some parts like the tweeters are actually quite easy to get and some like the crossovers you pretty much have to get from Klipsch directly... I can PM you at some point about hearing them. My house and by extension the garage they are currently living in, is a train wreck right now...
  22. They sound very good. I actually started out with just adding the K107Ti and CWIII crossover because I really didn't want to modify them too much but they still seemed to be missing something... So I ran the various tweeters and mid combinations using the old input as an output and ended up liking this set up the best. At some point I will have to A/B the new set up against my actual CWIII.
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