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those tags inside fortes & chorus & other models of this era dont have the serial number on them, just an inspection tag with a date.

decent price for a pair of cf2. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3091076891170309/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_general&referral_story_type=general&tracking={"qid"%3A"-7005358909285343224"%2C"mf_story_key"%3A"991905535786103330"%2C"commerce_rank_obj"%3A"{\"target_id\"%3A991905535786103330%2C\"target_type\"%3A6%2C\"primary_position\"%3A17%2C\"ranking_signature\"%3A9041075289597149184%2C\"commerce_channel\"%3A501%2C\"value\"%3A1.3766292728071e-5%2C\"upsell_type\"%3A3523%2C\"grouping_info\"%3Anull}"%2C"lightning_feed_qid"%3A"-7005361452001446983"%2C"lightning_feed_ranking_signature"%3A"6833759908190486528"}

sorry my sarcasm radar was acting up! if you were serious i would have offered you my walnut chorus 2 for $2298 & saved a dollar! $2000+ is ridiculous for chorus/2 IMO, but those do look to be very nice.

center woofers are damaged/dented. , otherwise in good condition

you dont "need" something substantial... as wuzzzer mentioned a mid level sealed (or ported) SVS sub or comparable brand like HSU will fill in the lower octave range nicely & sealed subs will be very musical. its not always about max DB & huge subs that dont fit well in many rooms or the WAF etc. also dont always need the absolute lowest hz, most music doesnt go much below ~40hz but most klipsch speakers fall off fast below that number so all you really need is a decent quality sub to fill in where the speakers drop off. yes horn loaded subs are best for horn loaded speakers but most require building them yourself &/or are very expensive & need an external amp to drive them. I asked a similar question about a year or so ago for a good sub for my chorus2 & got the same reply that i "need" a huge 15" ported sub or a horn sub & nothing else would work, was shown different graphs comparing max decibels of subs & told a sealed wouldnt work because chorus were "big boy" speakers & needed big subs... LOL. i since have purchased dual SVS sb2000s & they make a huge improvement filling in that lower octave that most speakers can lack, especially at lower to medium volume levels. & they arent even tuned with a miniDSP, just played with positioning & the settings a bit but i do plan to get a mini dsp soon. ive also owned many other subs over the years & for music i prefer a sealed sub over a ported of the brands ive owned. sealed do very well for home theater also but a ported sub will have more DB & usually go lower by a small amount so most people prefer ported over sealed for movie use. lots of used subs out there for decent prices, all depends on your budget but you cant go wrong with new SVS for the performance & especially the customer service & other benefits they offer like free in home trials, upgrade program & transferable warranties & all the free tech help you will ever need.

do NOT just use any woofer & remove the magnet! the passives are tuned to the cabinet/speaker specs & unless you remove the cone/weight & weigh it you have no idea how much weight to add or remove from a random gutted woofer or an aftermarket passive. & so far the guys at klipsch have not or will not disclose what the specific weights for their passives are... there was a thread a few months ago where we were told to use a forte3 passive in a chorus 2 speaker, only to find later on the weights were different, i asked what the weight specs were so maybe we could add/subtract from the F3 passive but didnt get any reply.... & shipping a light weight passive internationally is not that expensive, you can enter weight/dimensions at USPS website & get an exact quote. it will obviously be more than domestic but most international residents are aware of that & its just part of doing business with american parts. i just checked USPS to australia with general weight/size & for ~4lbs it shows $88. not too bad IMO to australia with todays shipping rates.

looks good! what glue did you use & did you scrape all old glue off or just reposition the same way they were?

if you have a solder station & have done some soldering before... its very easy to replace capacitors on these boards. for those crites prices for full kit or to even send in yours i would just try & do it yourself & save a ton of money. the caps you use are up to you & your budget, the daytons at parts express are only a few bucks each & theres other brands about the same price or even cheaper, bob used to recommend ERSE caps for budget builds & they are just as good as daytons for a lot cheaper. i've used them in quite a few speakers, klipsch & other brands with great results. or use the jem brand some on here prefer. as for the onkyo shutting down, if its an older model it very well could be the cause & not the speakers, ive had a couple early to mid 2000 onkyos fail all on their own, they are known to have issues & 2 of mine started cutting out at higher volumes then eventually wouldnt produce any sound. the speaker ohm rating can contribute to the issue so maybe the fortes with big 12" woofers are drawing more power than the other ones? based on pics & your explanation of what you've done theres a good chance it isnt the speaker & its the receiver itself. if you have another receiver maybe try swapping it out & play at the same general volume & see what happens. i even had a late 90's onkyo i sold to a friend after many years of trouble free use myself... within 6 months of driving it very hard with A & B channels (4, 8 ohm speakers) it literally blew up with tons of orange'ish smoke billowing out of the case, almost caught on fire! ive used onkyo for many years & for the most part they are very good for the price, but they can have issues & certain models of the era i mentioned are known to crap out. best of luck figuring it out.

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from the listing " Klipsch floor stand speakers. The cabinets have some minor marks. Sound is good. " -

heres another line from the LISTING " These speakers sound amazing, with crisp detailed treble and midrange, very impactful bass, and are perfect for any type of music. These are not small speakers, they will rock your world! " -

they'd be yours for for $2300 ??

looks like its a superficial dent on the center dust cap so it will not affect the sound or get worse over time. you can try to flatten it back out if you have access to it from the back side but tape wont do anything for that, its too small & sharp of a dent on a very rigid material. best to just leave it be IMO.

look at the trheads on here by @ngen33r he can repair the amps on these dead klipsch subs for a very reasonable price or of hes not taking in new work right now the threads have a lot of good info in them or im sure he can provide some tech help.

They need to be correct klipsch passives to work right or to confirm the weight/mass of the cone is the same as klipsch. these are relatively rare & hard to come by so i would take advantage of buying a single when its available then locating another single or if by chance you find a pair you can always sell the single for what you paid if it was a reasonable price. i would check with dtr20 to see what he will sell it for.

thanks, i will check with a light but they look very solid & the glue is applied very liberally, oozes out an inch or more on all seams. ive used gorilla glue on a lot of speaker cabinets that were loose, KG,s subs & other brands, it works great but would require removing all the factory glue to work right. it will be awhile until i hook these up to test them for rattles & working drivers but the glue looks very solid still & hopefull there are no cabinet issues. i have walnut forte2 & walnut chorus2 & really prefer the wood veneer cabinets over black, so unless these impress me more than forte/chours they wont be keepers & will be put up for sale after i check them out & clean them up.

ear/listening fatigue can happen at low to mid volumes & seated far away , doesn't have to be HIGH DECIBELS , - each person hears different & many people are sensitive to horn speakers.

on these 500s all inner seams have a heavy coating of the hot glue klipsch used in other models of this era like KGs & KLFs, they are sealed & make full contact everywhere, no bracing just some ~2" long blocks of wood placed around the seams. i hope they dont have bad glue or the loose front/rear boards that some KGs & many KLFs had.

that makes sense to me. & looking at the pics of the 5000s they look exactly like my 500s. i will post some pics of them later today.

FYI: the current passives klipsch sells for forte3/4 are cosmetically different than the original forte 2 passives, they have a foam or maybe rubber surround where the originals have a pleated fiber surround, if replacing both & you dont care about correct look the new style are ok, but if only doing 1 or want original look the F3/4 are different. look on ebay as they do pop up for sale occasionally or place a wanted ad here. another option is to buy a recone kit from simply speakers that are the correct looking cones & are relatively easy to replace.

yeah im pretty familiar with particle board, OSB & MDF & other woods, ive done quite a few amateur wood projects & used to build sub boxes for car audio, hard to tell for sure in the pics posted but the edges of the driver cut outs on the 5000s look very similar to the 500's i have here... but the fortes & academy cabinets are definitely smooth & much finer like other speaker quality MDF i have seen, MDF is usually like a very fine saw dust or flour consistency glued together while the average particle board is more like sand or a bit more coarse fibers. but if the only difference for the weight is the cabinet material then the 5000s must be an MDF. thanks again for the help.

thanks for the pics. looking at this pic & the other one of the bracing, the cabinets look to be exactly like my 500s, a kinda rough surface with what looks like ground up pieces of wood glued together, does not look like real MDF of other klipsch & other brands of speakers i own or owned. they are definitely NOT OSB as that has big flakes of wood glued together, not finer pieces of ground up wood like particle board, while MDF is a very fine & dense composition. i pulled atweeter in my fortes & academy center & they are MDF for sure, the wood for 500s & possibly 5000s dont look like MDF to me but might be hard to tell in geoffs pics. & the 500's are definitely exactly 3/4" for the front board, cant really measure the other boards since they are vinyl wrapped. anyone confirm the wood used for 5000/5000s? i dont see any official mention of what was used in the brochures.

thanks for the info on these guys, answers my questions. now i just need to give them a listen to see how i like them compared to my forte2 & chorus2. also just pulled a tweeter real quick & the motor board is 3/4" thick but does look to be less dense than MDF but not quite as cheap as the particle board you buy for home projects at home depot etc. must be the majority of the weight difference, strange the brochures dont mention cabinet wood or MDF anywhere.

do you happen to know what the differences are in the tweeter horns/diaphragms? i thought the quartet/F2/CH2 used the same tweeter, just got a different part# for each model for some reason?

thanks. i will open them up & see what the insides look like, but 15lbs difference in woofers is a huge amount, could the k28s be a PRO woofer like the k48 vs a standard k24? just cant see the woofer or a few pieces of small wood for bracing being 15lbs heavier. anyone open up a pair of 5000s to see what the internal cabinets look like for bracing or different thicknesses??