Dave A

Hi Chris, They are not mine and I have no profit in helping the sale. What I stated in the original post is what I meant and I would just like to see this guy get fair value. If fair value is cheap enough I could be tempted but I already have something better. I am not going to be the one to set the price though. Funny thing about these big systems is people who have actually heard them want them. I had a line of KPT-456 buyers who wanted to be told when my MCM 1900's were for sale. They were not your average Klipsch veneer customers though. First guy I called took the three way with passive Klipsch OEM crossovers for $2,500. Pretty sure these are pick up only and bring your needed muscle with you.

I never swerve for animals although I try to slow down to avoid them. They are not worth a wreck and I have no idea why Deer are so dumb about vehicles.

There were some but not good ones. Some people think their cheesy cell phones work well and don't own cameras. Google satellite would have prevented the trip though and that's what I intend to do in the future. Lets just say that for $700 I could take the chance.

Yes on my 41st van I can do that.

With the E-150 I could barely see the deer's head over the hood before the thump and that was it. The Caravan on the other hand sits much lower and would have probably rolled it up over the hood. For some reason they are everywhere right now so I think I may slow down for a while.

That big old van just had a healthy thump and the deer rolled under the vehicle which has enough clearance to easily go over it with no problems. Had this been my wife's Dodge Caravan it would have been a different story

Klipsch Cornwall I speakers - Walnut - $900 (Hendersonville, TN) image 4 of 4 © craigslist - Map data © OpenStreetMap (google map) Klipsch Cornwall I speakers. Consecutive serial numbers. Needs new woofer to match. I have the woofer that came out of it and it is good. It just is different make from the one installed. I can include it if you want if you buy the speakers. The speakers do not have any front covers. They can either can be easily hand made or purchased online. Nice condition.

So I have a guy call me up and telling me he has a set of La Scalas for sale for $700. A few scratches but nothing of note so OK I will take them and arrange to be there today. I get there and Jeff Foxworthy must have set this up. At the main road is something or another "Ranch". OK I think as I drive in and top the small hill for my first view. On the left is a run down shack with some goats and some beater farm stuff. On my right is a WELL used small travel trailer and two LS BR's in the driveway on the dirt. So I get closer and the grilles on the top front are crumpled up and warped. Out pops this dude who had to catch up to his belly and had most of his teeth. So I get out to have a look and big chips off the baltic top back. Old varnish in bad shape. Dirt everywhere and including gobs of it in the K-77 lens mouth. I mention the cabinet damage and he starts regaling me with "I have had 40 sets of these and what I do is fill the bad spots in with bondo sand them off and paint them. I guess these were set 41. I see that lovely AL crossover and make mention of the various problems I am seeing and who knows what they sound like. By now I am not interested and at the second rendition of "IcansellthepartsformoremoneyonEBay", pause for breath sucking noise through the gaps in the front almost there in places teeth, "Ihavehad40setsofthese" and I stopped him right there stating I have no interest in these at all and don't believe a word you say and off I go. So I get close to home on my 240 mile sojourn to Foxworthy Acres and out runs a deer which I proceed to plow under at 60 mph. Fortunately it looks like a front bumper needs replaced and all the grille + left headlight and some other minor things so good to have a tough front end. I cant imagine what the cost would have been with the new Ford van body style but this 2010 took it in as much stride as could be hoped for. All in all a fabulous speaker hunting day. New rule for speaker hunting. See what the joint looks like on Google Satellite View first before departure. Those few times you really make a killing don't even begin to make up for the hassle and expenses for when you don't anymore and I think my hunting days are going to be radically curtailed. It quit being entertaining today.

I have pondered this very thing all day and have no idea which is why I posted. There just aren't enough of these sold where the numbers are public to know. If quality of sound and the rarity of sales is any indication of value I am not sure what it would be. I know if you wanted a set you could spend a long time looking.

"about the cross overs Bob Crites made them for me there are four boards 1 each for the highs and 1 each for the lows"

They have been refinished, they are factory double bins, the K-402's have K-69 drivers and I am not sure what the crossover is right now but I will find out. It is a two way system I believe and having had one like it I can assure you the sound is stellar.

OK I am asking this question for someone who loves his system but is now faced with serious health issues and has to move on. He has a system with a K-402 set of horns and a set of double MWM bins with a passive crossover. A plug and play. He wants to know the value and I don't have a real concrete idea. This is NOT a situation for all the piranhas to rub their hands with glee at the idea of beating someone down. It is a fellow audiophile who has fallen on bad health and I want honest real value opinions on this systems worth. I believe the drivers are K-69? In any case they are in great shape in the hands of a man who loved and took care of them.

I think what I do is far closer to a tractrix curve and not an exponential one. Perhaps one of the tech wizards here with more comprehensive knowledge of what each entails will chime in.

I assume these are like Bob's autoformers with 12 tap values or is it something different?

I had a set that used slightly thicker side wall plywood. It was not all that much but it was enough to be visually thicker and they were much better sounding than the other LS's that have gone though here.

OK guys when you have questions the internet is your friend and you do not have to wonder and wait for an answer. Type in "what does a speaker L-Pad do" and you will find more info than you know what to do with. For instance....... http://www.bcae1.com/lpad.htm " An L-pad is a passive device which lets you control the output level of speakers without changing the impedance seen by the amplifier. A constant impedance is not really necessary for the amplifier but if you are using passive crossovers, a constant impedance is necessary to prevent the crossover frequency from changing. The following image shows what typical L-pad looks like. This L-pad is relatively large (~3" in diameter) because it's rated at 100 watts. L-pads rated for higher power have to be larger than ones rated for lower power because they have to dissipate more heat. This one has an unusually long shaft. This would generally be installed directly into the wall of the speaker enclosure. If you were using a terminal cup, you could use this (using nuts to allow only a fraction of the shaft to protrude through the terminal cup but it would be better to use one with a proper/short shaft. "

I am betting he will never look back.

There are a ton of Audiogon people who don't have one lick of sense but they do know how to boast of purchase price. https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/what-is-the-best-bnc-digital-cable-under-4-000?utm_source=sendgrid&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=website Then there is this https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/an-audiophile-is-anyone-who-loves-audio-regardless-of-monetary-status?utm_source=sendgrid&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=website and this which is hysterical to me since 95% of all the gear mentioned there falls in this category https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/what-s-your-vote-for-the-most-ridiculous-overpriced-and-useless-tweak?utm_source=sendgrid&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=website I want a good laugh I know where to go.

It reduces the wattage going to the tweeter. These new drivers are more efficient and they can handle far more watts so sometimes you have to rein them in. It does not change the tone but it does match the output to the other drivers so they are balanced. For example you want to hear your cymbals but not have them intrusively loud just like it would be live. The only times I have found this necessary has been with Fortes and now I am thinking La Scalas which have a reputation for being a bit shrill at times. I will have a better opinion on the La Scalas after I work on a couple more variations and see how they respond. https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-l-pad-attenuator-50w-mono-1-shaft-8-ohm--260-255

Those are cnc cut motorboards so do you think a couple hundredths off top and bottom of the lens body would work? You got to be the guinea pig so this should be a one time event. I am also pondering a clamp that would use the two larger spaced holes we discussed to go over the ends of the lens flanges. Let me know if you want to try that. They ought to beat the pants off those K-77's when they are done breaking in.

Yes that rascal was 47 pounds worth. Enjoy Carl and let me know how it all works out. I never tried most of the capabilities before I lost interest but there are a ton of things it is supposed to do.

On a set of LSI's I rebuilt recently decided that while the K-55-V soldered lug helped the big change was the tweeter and making the side walls on the horn bin 1" Baltic. Stuck one of my larger MAHL tweeters on a rebuilt motorboard and it was still to shrill. However when an L-Pad was added to the tweeter it changed the whole ball game. Seriously thinking of adding an L-Pad to every La Scala rebuild from now on. Between the heavier side walls and the rest of it you are right about bass. It seems to dig much deeper than stock La Scalas and I have not measured anything but assume it is because all the resonance is gone and the shrillness dialed down. Have an LS BR coming in next week and will try just recapping and replacing the tweeter and adding an L-Pad and see how it does. I am thinking a big difference. Quickly coming to think the tweeter on an LS causes more trouble than the mid horn does. That and side wall resonance. Do you have a picture of the Fastrac horn you can send me? I am seriously thinking of making something for the mid range too. Probably a modified Tractix or a convex elliptical similar to the tweeters I make.

Excuses excuses.

You just need to stack those La Scalas on a set of S-MWM's. Honest they will fit right on top no trouble.

https://www.tweekgeek.com/audience-in-wall-wiring/ If you are wiring a dedicated circuit for your audio sytem, THIS is the wire to use. Audience In-Wall wire is UL rated for in wall use, and is simply the purist, best sounding wire you could use to power your audio system. Robert Harley, and the Head Geek both use it in our listening rooms. You have 3, 10 AWG high purity stranded copper conductors for the hot, neutral and ground legs. There is an additional drain wire for the shield, and the outer metal jacket offers additional protection from screws, nails, and RFI. Not only does this wiring sound good, it’s safe. The cable is also cryogenically treated to further reduce self-noise by decreasing the physical boundaries between the crystalline structure of the copper. Features of Hidden Treasure include: UL CL2 approved for 120v and 220v AC in wall applications 10 AWG, 3 conductors Stranded 99.9999% pure OFC, cryogenically treated copper conductors XLPE dielectric with PVC sleeve Foil shielded Flexible 18mm OD UL listed yes...... For what type of application? ..... UL listed for use as branch circuit power wiring? CL2: This is a cable jacket fire resistance rating defined in Article 725 of the National Electric Code. It stands for "Class 2 Remote-Control, Signaling, and Power-Limited Circuits" cable, which indicates that the cable is suitable for in-wall installation and use for certain low-voltage applications. Examples of Class 2 circuits include burglar alarm cabling, intercom wiring, and speaker wire. The jacket is designed to protect against voltage surges of up to 150 volts. https://www.cablewholesale.com/support/technical_articles/confusing_cable_terms.php Well I guess I have been buying the wrong stuff!!