winglet

http://images.klipsch.com/KP-320_635348946280518000.pdf fwiw, the frequency response graph looks like a mistake. Appears to be the kp65 driver chart

15k is incredibly optimistic with a k53 on a 602 horn..

Look to be in great shape. Not the best sounding pro speaker according to a few threads here tho..

I was hoping you’d chime in. I remember reading about your chorus when i was digging thru old posts. I forget, did you use the k55v on a k604 or a k602 with an adapter?

Gotcha. k55v is done long before the 7,000 hertz cross to the tweeter in the chorus ii. Tweeter high pass should be lowered. Stock chorus ii network relies on the natural rolloff of the k53 at it’s upper end. Unless the replacement mid has the same roll off, a bandpass will be needed for any driver that plays higher. Forte iii (k70) and forte iv (k702) drivers included. The horn itself is used to 20khz in some pro 2 way speakers.

None of those will work as well as the K53 without making changes to the network. Can't discuss that here...

K-61 is the combination of the K53 driver on the K-602 horn that is in your Chorus II The K-604 horn is the 1 3/8" threaded version of the K-602 that is used in some pro gear. Different screw pattern, but otherwise a drop in replacement.

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Horn won't help the need for eq either. 396 uses the same cd horn ‘mumps’ version of the k-510…

Zxpc 18x10 is pretty popular. Before the mods squash this thread, head over to audiokarma for discussion about it…

He's not spamming. You in fact did put the woofer driver wires on the wrong end of your crossovers. Too bad you removed all the components. @mboxler and I had a simple rewire for you when you disappeared.

THIS. There are plenty of Klipsch out there that haven't been mucked around with. Those Forte II with the crites woofers you're looking at? If they are the pair I think, no way are they worth that money in clear lacquer oak in that condition.. or any condition personally..

To use as a center between your forte II or I?

I I second the suggestion about using a template to better visualize the speaker sizes. It’s a significant difference between the two. C4 and F3, but nearly the same as the older ones:

Yes. See what I wrote above It's close to your original suggestion...

Remove the one black wire from the 3.6mf inductor and connect it to ground. That wire goes to the amp and the the other three black go to the speakers. Then swap (remove and resolder to the opposite screws) the three red wires with the one red wire. It now flows right to left without making mboxler changes. Bottom to top in the original pic

I think you're correct about right to left for both was the original intention. The initial layout makes more sense that way.

I'm thinking the tweeter and woofer sections are wired in opposite directions. In @mboxler pic, the woofer section flows left to right, but the tweeter section appears to be wired right to left.

Scam. Texted this morning just after it posted. Broken english and a burner phone number. Venmo her a deposit and she’ll hold them until work is out… Yeah, sure..

Yes. Corrected @mboxler Can you rewrite your flow of connections from left to right instead. Input to output. I think you have a mistake in there. The 3.6mh inductor (J) shouldn’t go to ground. It goes + wire (after 1.3mf inductor) -> 3.6 -> 75uf -> 8.2r -> ground (woofer neg output) That’s the order on the schematic. I think you’re going in the opposite direction with those 3 components. Does the order matter?

Add the ground wire as you showed. On the + side, the 30uf cap input needs to be moved to after the 1.3uf inductor and then to ground. D to B, and C to the ground woofer out screw. His existing + wire to the 1.4uf in (A) looks like it is the same as your added red wire (i think we’re saying the same thing, just connecting thru the 30uf cap in different directions)

@mboxler Mike. Take another look at his very first picture of the crossover. If he removes the amp neg in connection to the 3.6mf inductor and instead connects it directly to the speaker out neg screw at the bottom, I think it fixes it. That inductor is shorting the amp to ground Explains the .4ohm reading he’s getting when he connects the multimeter to the speaker input terminals on the speaker with the installed new crossover

Oh holy hell.. now I need more coffee.. haha

I’ll let @mboxler confirm, but that 3.6mh inductor at the top (input) should not be connected to ground. One side connected to positive, and the other should connect to the 75uf cap only. Cap to 8.2 resister, and then to ground.

All 4 drivers measure like this?