The History Kid
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Posts posted by The History Kid
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It's upgrade time again - replacing it with an XPA.
Asking $325 + ship from 52806. I have the original box, and power cable. I know someone is looking for one of these...
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At the risk of derailing, I had an entire Jamo 5 channel configuration at one point, and they could put out some very impressive sound. They were the last or next to last generation before Klipsch bought them out. The floorstanders now live down the road from me, and the center and surrounds traveled to different places in the U.S. altogether.
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9 hours ago, ThomasD. said:
Wonder if there will be a Jamo equivalent.
I doubt it. The Heritage design is a Klipsch exclusive. That being said, I'm sure there might be a Jamo LCR bar sometime in the future.
Tossing a like your way for the Jamo love.
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Ah the 240S, not the 240F.It looks like I can hang them on the side walls pretty easily with an omnimount. If the timbre doesn't matter as much I think i'll go with the Klipsch RP-240s. they are bookshelf size and should sound good. Thanks for the help!
In that case, yes. Go for it! -
My guess goes to either: mass announcement pa system for notification/announcement (they look similar to the outdoor "big voice" speakers on some of our buildings) or siren boxes. LolI bet [mention=58712]The History Kid[/mention], although highly knowledgeable and trained in ancient history, doesn't know what those speakers are in your avatar. [emoji41]
It's for dang sure he's never heard them in the wild. [emoji3] -
For surround duties, I don't think timbre matching is quite as important. Don't get me wrong, you'd be better off matching when possible, but surrounds generally handle effects. That being said, hanging floorstanding speakers sounds like a pain, and you may honestly be better off going with the R-14S, since they're designed to be surrounds.
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I don't think that is correct.
Probably. Thus my thinking. -
2 minutes ago, rlmerrell69 said:
@The History Kid, I am leaning towards the Denon. I do listen to both music and movies but I would prefer a better movie experience.
If you lean movies, I agree. The Denon would probably be your better option. You can't really go wrong with either - but in my experience Denon's perform better with movies. I personally don't favor either of these brands - but they have quite the following with Klipsch owners, and I can't deny they're solid quality.
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3 minutes ago, rlmerrell69 said:
@The History Kid, I was thinking a little about that too. Knowing my entry level isn't for these towers, how would I determine the quality of the 2 candidates? (Denon AVRx5200w and Marantz SR6011) I'm still reading their overview and specifications.
It's not an exact science, but a good determining factor is looking at the type of the power supply (A, B, D, H, etc), weight of the unit (the bulk of the weight is usually from the power supply) and the total power consumption. Most AVR's will run Class D if I recall right. The Marantz is spec'd at 680 W and weighs 28 lbs. The Denon is spec'd at 730 W and weighs 31.3 lbs. Both are made by the same parent company. Both are solid choices. If you use these rules, the Denon would have a bit of an edge, but Marantz has a history of being on the end of music, Denon favors movies. That'd be one of your deciding factors. You aren't going to notice the difference in the wattage specified between these two options.
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Determining the quality of the amplification is a big factor too, and cheaper power supplies such as what is in the RX-V Yamaha's is anemic at best. Some power supplies put out few watts, but those watts are fed by a monstrous power supply. That can change the efficiency of the amp and in turn provide better and cleaner power to the speakers. The speakers efficiency comes into play too. Quality over quantity - but both when you can afford it.
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It's unlikely you'll use more than about 30 Watts anyway. Most people won't be able to take 150 Watts continuously anyway. Watts are only a piece of the puzzle.
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1 minute ago, rlmerrell69 said:
Thanks @The History Kid, @wvu80 & @rebuy !!
I'd like to keep a bit simple and have the receiver power the towers. I'm sure if I needed pre-outs to power Klipsch speakers I would have upgraded to Klipsch's THX speakers. Which would come much much later. For now, i'd like to keep it as a 5.(1)(2) / 7.(1)(2) with the upgrade ability to have overhead speakers for Atmos. Would a Denon AVR-X5200W suffice or is the Marantz SR6011 still preferable? I can't seem to reach the Marantz website for that model, not letting me through.
Both are solid options. I will still encourage you to find an AVR with pre's which both have. It has nothing to do with assuming the power isn't there, just allows you to keep your investment longer than a few years when technology changes or power needs can't be met.
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I'd dump the Denon AVR-X1400 and Marantz SR-5011 off that list above. The 5011 is their entry level, and I've heard enough negative reviews to steer clear. People either really like them or really hate them. The 6011 however, is a different beast entirely. The 1400 doesn't have pre-outs, and if you're running Klipsch speakers with the risk of upgrading, I'd do nothing short of an AVR with a full ensemble of preouts.
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There's still some RF-62's around with warranty, I saw a few on eBay even. You might try that. There's also a pair of RF-83's in Atlanta right now on Craigslist that would be killer, but probably won't work with the footprint.
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Is he absolutely stuck on the RP-260F for some reason? There's quite a few better options at the pricepoint on CL.
Otherwise you might see if Met can get you a better deal.
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I wouldn't worry about it. Those speakers won't really benefit much from passive bi-amplification. They'd probably sing if you did it actively, but that's more money than it's probably worth. Stick with the standard wiring, and you should love it.
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I just looked at Klipsch's website and found the sub. Best I can tell is that you'd need to do some soldering from one serial type to another, there's no straight up adapter for that. You'll need to do some splicing, soldering, and crimping to achieve the desired affect. The speakers should wire in fine.
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Not sure how that'd work. I've never seen the back of the Bluetooth sub, but I'm guessing it doesn't have wired speakers. My question would be how you'd plan to wire wired speakers to a wireless sub. -
I figured I'd write up something on this unit since it's fairly new still.
Earlier this year, my Fusion 8100 suffered a nasty fault that it wouldn't come out of. It had been on its last legs for a while, and after having issues with another Fusion, I had kicked around the idea of jumping ship from Emotiva. I decided though, that I'd give them one last chance as my entry point to separates. So I went with an MC-700 preamp, and to power the speakers in my setup that weren't powered by stereo amps or monoblocks, I went with a UPA-500. This combination was a mistake. The UPA was flaky, and while it was by no means a slouch, it made my RS-3's struggle, to keep up with the main stage, while starving the RC-7 for power. The exact opposite of what I wanted. The MC-700 was a train wreck interface wise, and between it and the Fusion, I will never own an Emotiva system with any kind of digital interface ever again.
Things I was looking for:
- Power to supply to the RC-7, and 4 RS-3's in my configuration.
- Tuner
- 4K Video Processing
- Halfway decent processing without breaking the bank
Outboard amplification that was staying included a UPA-2, and an XPA-2. The sources included a turntable off of a Schiit Mani, an Oppo BDP-103, a Dell computer, 3 Playstations (2, 3, 4) and an Xbox 360. EQ would also address the RB-5's, RF-3 II's, and the RSW-15.
I picked up this unit on Accessories4Less - the DRX-3.1. Having previously moved a system from a Fusion 8100 to an Integra unit, I had fairly high expectations, since I knew the DTR series was more than capable to make the Heresy I's sound good, and the DTM series was handling a newly modified pair of Heresy II. My focus has been shifting around from 20-40% movies to 60-80% music, so my criticality came into play with music. Unlike the DT series of systems, the DRX doesn't pretend that Spotify is built into the unit, it tells you up front that it's through Spotify Connect, the rest of the streaming features included Pandora, Tune In, Tidal, and a few others. The big kicker was Chromecast being built in. Fantastic for most (but I do have my computer).
The interface out of the box was much more pleasing and easy to understand than the Emotiva's was. I had no problems navigating the screens, and understanding what each screen was came much more naturally. The first thing I noticed was that unlike my MC-700, the DRX-3.1 was passing a fully fledged 4K picture to the screen. The computer is fully 4K, and previously I had frequent issues with the screen resolution cycling to 1920x1080, but with the DRX-3.1 that resolution is forced to run at 4096x2140. The Oppo also detected this change, where it would default to 1920x1080 on the MC-700 as well. The computer also recognized that the Integra was ready to process an Atmos signal. I don't grade the MC-700 hard on that since it wasn't Atmos enabled, but it was nice to see that out of the box, the Integra was sending and receiving all of the right signals.
Power wise, I was pleasantly surprised. The Integra is rated at 100 WPC with 2 channels driven from 20 Hz to 20 kHz. The total power output is around 530 W, so my total WPC with 5 channels driven is probably around 60 or 70 - similar to the Fusion 8100. However, it seems to drive the speakers with quite a bit more ease than the Fusion 8100 did, and certainly better than the UPA-500. The unit weighs a meager 26 lbs, with a smaller power supply - however, it easily delivers power more effectively than the 35 lb Emotiva AVR, and the 28 lb Emotiva amp did.
EQ - I almost always run flat. I don't like adjusting the spectrum if I don't have to, and I was happy to say with the Integra that continued. However, the bass management of the Integra seems to drive the MR and LR much better than even my old Yamaha's did. It's tamed the RSW-15 to a considerable degree, and doesn't seem to cause quite the rattling punch that previous units kicked to the sub. This is a welcome change, as the LFE spectrum is still delivered in its entirely, but the Integra's ability to filter out any noise that might get spit out anywhere in the signal makes the bass a much smoother sounding experience.
Overall at first full 24 hours of handling, I'm surprised. I would have expected a pre/pro/power amp configuration to outperform a mid-level AVR, but Integra has surprised me on at least 3 other occasions. Ultimately, what it comes down to is that the Integra is a much more refined product capable of putting out sufficient power to drive Reference II series speakers, and an EQ and sound profiling that is more than adequate, especially compared to other units in its price range. The company is batting 1.000 with me right now, and that's more than I can say for Yamaha, Denon, Marantz, or Emotiva.
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Dirac is great, when its on a system that works and for someone who actually uses auto-calibration. I personally dislike auto-cal, because the mic never hears what I hear, and thus it's a moot point. Most of the time I prefer to run the system flat even.
As for the Integra comment - that's what I traded my Emotiva combo in for. I moved from an MC-700 and a UPA-500 to a DRX-3.1. This marks the third Intgra unit that I've purchased, and it's the second Emotiva setup that Integra has usurped. It is a fantastic piece of equipment and handles EQ much better than the Emotiva does. It sounds much more laid back too, with hardly any of the HDMI hiccups that the Emotiva had. There's no lag, there's no delay, no hangups, it just works out of the box. I had considered the DHC-80.3, but opted for the AVR, since I needed the 4K feature for my computer, and my budget was not enough to afford the DRC-R1.
I have only good things to say about the company, and in the instance that I needed to make a value purchase, would choose them every time over Emotiva going forward. Again, I believe Emotiva is hard to beat for its price for power amplifiers, but Pre amps...I feel at that price point the XMC-1 is easily beaten by other offerings on the table. You can purchase Dirac separately anyway and run it off of a PC, gathering the variables and inputting them accordingly into any piece of equipment. It's hardly limited to the XMC-1 alone.
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Bump.
Yamaha and cabs are still available. The KG-1.2's sold on Friday.
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I wanted to post a reply here real quick that the Integra arrived today. I have it running in a very limited capacity until Friday when I can get all of the surround channels hooked back up. I'll make a separate thread on impressions since the unit is one of the new line, but the first listen tells me that it may perhaps be outperforming the Emotiva combo already. The bass management I can attest 150% sure, is better than the MC-700's. More later.
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Most of what you're going to find now will be aftermarket. Any OEM parts are likely matched originally to the RF-35, the 3's closest relative. You'll see replacement woofers meant for the RF-35 that can be used on the RF-3, along with the rest of the guts. So it wouldn't surprise me if you found some RF-35 parts out there. I think you're on the right track with looking at the silk, and it's absolutely possible that's the difference in the part numbers. I don't have those right in front of me, but eBay has been pretty solid about checking those to make sure they'll work.
Can you measure the distance from the edges that the threads are on those speakers? I'll compare them to mine. I think you can use II feet on the I, but we can make sure. II used floating feet, where I used straight spikes I believe.
So for the mods, I'd look at the XO's first before doing anything else. Whether that's via Bob, or just replacing caps and other parts yourself, it should be beneficial.
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RF-82ii amp help
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
Are you looking for just an amp to run zone 2 off the Denon or a stereo receiver?