twk123
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Posts posted by twk123
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For stain what I do is first wipe the wood down with mineral spirits and let dry, this will suck out any oils in the wood that will repel the stain or finish. Next sand with 220 grit to knock down any grain that was raised by the mineral spirits. Then apply minwax pre-stain conditioner which will help make the stain more even. For the actual stain, I set a timer for 10 min and use a brush to apply the stain. The trick is to keep going over the section you are staining with the brush so the stain is always wet and never starts to get sticky or dry. Once the timer goes off I wipe with a clean lint free rag. You may want to repeat the stain steps again for a darker look.
For a finish, you can use a brush or rag depending on how thick it is. You can always cut an oil finish with mineral spirits to make it easier to wipe on. All finish is actually high gloss but satin and matte have something like little silicon crystals in it to knock down the gloss. As such, its best to use a gloss finish on all the coats then save the matte finish for the last coat. You can also use 0000 steel wool to knock down the gloss to a satin finish.
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15 hours ago, Emile said:
Tom; thanks! ... sorry; typo (I think
). Tried mh-audio.nl , diyaudioandvideo.com calculator and a couple of others. Downloading WinISD now.
Do you know of any place where I can "hear" the difference. Can "see" it from the graph below (from http://audiojudgement.com/sealed-enclosure-closed-box/ ). If I "feed"
my center speaker only freqs > 100Hz, it doesn't seem to make much of a difference if I use Qtc=.7 or 0.8 or even 0.9. (But a GREAT differenc in box "size") But then ... maybe I'm crazy
Cheers, Emile
Add-on ... bought this speaker primarily for the large horn ... also want to get a good mid-range out of it ... say >200Hz ... not concerned about low bass ... have KPT-904's and a 15" sub for that ... ????????
Ok Emile, think about all the time and money its going to take to build this. Also, think about how humid it is in Florida. What if you could simply drive a few hours to a State that is really dry and also have a matching center?
Its only a 27 hr drive and you can get another matching KPT-904 and problem solved!
https://denver.craigslist.org/ele/d/klipsch-kpt-904-cinema/6596023310.html
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I lined the back of my KG 5.5's with a strip of pink fiberglass and it made a noticeable improvement in the bass. The stuff is horrible to work with though.
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The same thing happened to me. I got into this wanting the most bombastic HT setup I can get my hands on but as I got deeper into it I found music far more engaging and enjoyable. By the time I got my LaScalas I had already dropped surround my surround channels. Now that we moved here to Colorado, I have nearly my entire basement dedicated to my 2 channel rig and just have my single HIP Heresy for watching movies.
Lol I had a buddy over in my basement a while back and he asked, "Wow this is a nice basement, what are you going to do with it?" I just looked at him then looked at my stereo.
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45 minutes ago, mark1101 said:
At one point I recapped an old pair of Lascala AAs with those 1% Dayton film caps that cost like $3.00 a piece. Dang........they actually sounded pretty darn good. I enjoyed those for awhile until I made an additional change that eventually removed them.
I also put them in a friend's Cornwalls and also his lascalas. He likes them as well and continues to use them.
Honestly, 6 or 7 years ago I would never have considered components like this. Caps seemed to have come a long way in a few years.
I have Dayton 1% Caps in my HIP and it sounds good to me. Honestly if you really AB tested them against Sonicaps I dont think you could tell a difference.
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This looks like a good deal for someone who needs a center:
https://denver.craigslist.org/ele/d/klipsch-kpt-904-cinema/6596023310.html
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40 minutes ago, ClaudeJ1 said:
All 10 Hz. response did for me is to vibrate stuff down the hall, and even then VERY rarely, since examining the graphical data on AVS sites shows that the preponderance of output is above 20 Hz. for 99% of the movies. I find it wasteful to design and execute a 10 Hz. response. Good enough is good enough. Most cheap, direct radiators on the market barely reach 30 Hz. so doing 20 Hz. with a horn and 120+ db output EFFICIENCY, to me is the best way to OPTIMIZE sound reproductions. 10-20 Hz. response is EXPENSIVE sound effects that basically test the structural integrity of your house, second only in stupidity to BURP test of a van full of direct radiators pumping out decibel levels that rival a 747 jet a take off. Mega stupidity has different levels also.
I think it was an old Home Theater Geeks episode where he talked to a sound producer and the guys basically said any movie content under 20hz is just artifacts that made it into the track on accident.
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25 minutes ago, Emile said:
Michael, interesting thought and certainly less work
Let me "sleep" on that one Bad part is that it will then weigh 60 lbs instead of 40 lbs
At least you wont really have to move it very often. lol I am currently using a 50lb HIP that I put an internal amp into as a boombox and lug it all around the house.
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Here is an idea: since it is front ported anyway, why dont you just build a box for the whole Yamaha speaker to fit into with dark grill cloth and nobody would know the difference.
On a side note, are those separate cabs for the KPT 904 horns? That looks really clean. Lol I thought they were cornwalls at first.
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The only think I can suggest is throwing it in one of these. Get a cutting drill bit and drill a port about the same size as the original cab.
https://www.parts-express.com/pa-knock-down-trapezoid-plywood-speaker-cabinet-for-12-driver--245-324
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On 5/18/2018 at 11:47 PM, 2Bob said:
Anyone out there interested in casting audio or using blue tooth to connect to a soundbar?
Having a few issues casting to an RB-11 soundbar, like just not working?
Cheers
Bob
Welcome to the forum! For an issue like this you are better off going directly to Klipsch Support. Soundbars have their place and can be useful for casual TV viewing but as Jason mentioned, even some small bookshelf speakers with a receiver and a sub are going to sound much better. A good AVR with speakers will also give you better options to upgrade components down the line. With a soundbar your pretty much just stuck with what you have.
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Just break out a bottle Hoss...
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1 hour ago, Kman said:
another great video. just remember to remove the inside dust liner in the grill cover before painting. it attaches back in nicely. I picked up a trigger adapter from home depot that snaps onto the spray can top. makes a huge difference. I recommend it highly.
This thing changed my life. I used to hate spray painting but once I got this and a good 3m mask it makes a world of difference. The leverage from the trigger depresses the nozzle better too and the cans really spray more like a gun.
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I am working on putting together the parts for my upcoming TPA3255 amp build and was wondering what you guys use for internal wiring? Specifically, the AC power from the plug to the PSU, the DC power from the PSU to the amp, the line level wiring then the final output wiring? Thanks in advance for the advice.
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I really like Formby's Tung oil finish. It is heavily cut with solvents so it wipes on as a liquid and has a nice natural look. It soaks into the wood instead of building up like a thicker poly will.
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Welcome to the forum! If you are doing an AT screen I would definitely go with 3 matching RP-250F speakers across the front. 'Center' speakers are meant to be horizontal to fit under a TV and that compromises a quite a bit of sound quality vs a floor-standing speaker.
As for subwoofers, 10'' is not going to cut it for true HT duty. You have the placement correct as subs are best in the middle of the room along the wall with one directly in front and one in back. Depending on your room size, dual 12'' subs may be acceptable but 15'' is really going to make a difference to get some good bass response.
As Willand mentioned, budget and room size are two key factors and from there we can help you pick and choose different components to optimize your setup. If you have a enough budget, I would look into the Klipsch Pro Cinema line which are designed to fit behind an AT screen. We have some dealers here on the forum who can get you what you need in this regard.
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5 hours ago, JJkizak said:
That man has incredible concentration.
JJK
When you have to sit through a 3 hour timeshare presentation to get a free round of golf, you take it pretty seriously...
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"Ok, who here can write 'F*ck off' in a really eloquent way?"
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19 hours ago, CECAA850 said:
Odd horn and 3 ports. Doesn't look Klipschy.
The more I look the more I think it probably is not. Initially I saw the 3 ports and it reminded me of the KP 3002.
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7 minutes ago, Emile said:
Looks like they have a second listing also
But shipping seems like a rip off
Agreed, total you are looking at around $500 for dinged up cabs that you cant look at first. It may still be a good deal for someone willing to roll the dice...
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10 minutes ago, Emile said:
Oops ... good catch ... did not see that. Still seems like a great buy for some of our friends at this forum
Cheers, Emile
No worries, it is still a screaming deal. There are few things that wood filler and paint cant fix.
It looks like there is only one available so this is a definite candidate for a center behind an AT Screen.
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The caveat here is the condition is rated as "G" which is the second lowest grade with possible cabinet dings and scratches. That being said, these would make a great LCR behind a AT screen.
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26 minutes ago, babadono said:
For maximum yes of course a bigger supply will be necessary. That's why the smartazz that I am I asked what do you mean by work. @twk123apologies if I offended you
Your all good, I will be powering my LaScalas with this so I really only need about 5W of the rated output. One thing I have found about Class D is the more headroom the better. It looks like the 7.3 amp has a fan, has anyone had issues with the noise? If its loud it might be worth the smaller one as I dont need that much final wattage.
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13 minutes ago, Oicu812 said:
I suffer from some really bad tinnitus, from a motorcycle tire blowing apart while I was filling it. It happened right next to my head. Sound pressure and healthy vocal ranges trump everything now, and brute force is needed to override the ugly chords that live in my head constantly. My days of aural discernment have been over for 25 years.
Here are the new babies! (Not too bad for a C-note)
Those look really nice! If that is the case I would go with the Heresy's. The high efficiency and midrange are very 'forward' and will be able to overcome the ringing. The KG's on the other hand are more laid back in the mid range but pound bass. Since you already have the CF-3, I would go with the Heresy also as it will round out your collection better with a 2 way and 3 way design where the KG 5.5 will sound more similar to your CF-3.
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). Tried mh-audio.nl , diyaudioandvideo.com calculator and a couple of others. Downloading WinISD now. 
Let me "sleep" on that one 
ALK Crossovers
in General Klipsch Info
Posted
No need to apologize. Arguing over crossover design is a longstanding tradition here on the Klipsch forum. We generally have the steep slope camp, the just recap it camp, the paper in oil camp and the active digital multi amp camp. It may seem like people get riled up but its just part of the passion that drives the community and the fact we are all more than a little crazy about pursuing audio perfection.
I do agree with Preston on the room, controlling primary reflections is probably going to yield far better clarity than tinkering with crossovers or driver placement. Depending on your room and WAF you can use curtains or dedicated dampening material. Parts Express actually has a new line for sale that is a pretty good deal.
https://www.parts-express.com/sonic-barrier-fbp242-studio-acoustic-foam-bevel-panel-24-x-24-x-2-black-7-pack--260-549