RoboKlipsch

Send a pm if u havent already, usually helps wirh a fast response.

I had 1 and its fine for 1 seat only. Then 2 and it got 3 seats good but not matching. I maxed out what could do in an l shaped room. 4 is the sweet spot. Its enough to provide ample headroom and lots of nulls and peaks nicely cancelled. Beyond 4 gets even better but is more a matter of slam and punch bonus ime. I still request a sweep from 5 and up. You bettet not be high passing at 20! 😈

imo crossovers are complicated and very important, it needs to be left to a designer sell them and buy a used rc64 the costs would be close, you might have to chip in a hundred or so towards a used rc64

Swl lol cool bro its all good. What my original intention was to sell it for any price to an established member but not below what i paid. My concern with posting the low price i got it for was that someone else could buy it and resell it for an easy profit. Believe it or not...not a single established member came in with a best offer. Eventually a nice guy came along and we struck a deal including delivery. I consider swl a friend and owe him a dinner at some point when i get back up north to hear his newly calibrated earthquake tubas ☺ swl has the best trained ear for music i have ever heard, his music is simply exquisite and his entire setup including mods were done without measurement equipment. and now that he has a minidsp and umik and can measure and further refine his setup im thinking it will be sublime. If people could hear his modified klf30s how he has them in his room they would never want rf7s....that good.

At a close distance the rs series will perform better by helping disperse the high frequencies. Both work but a direct monopole is harder to manage up close and imo only should be done by placing them up at least a foot above ear level. At 2.5 feet and with depth close to a foot that driver is right in your head!

they look like the monolith from 2001 😊

Thank you for asking. it is sold and i even delivered it too, to a very nice local gent.

just wanted to mention it. many people calibrate then use the full gain, just wanted to point it out. u know what youre doing👍

in the top section here the creator of audyssey mentions sub trim https://audyssey.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/212347563-Subwoofer-setup-and-MultEQ

I could be wrong but i think -12 on the sub trim is maxed out...its still too high. Audyssey cant lower it enough to perfectly balance with the other speakers. You may want to try rerunning it after lowering gain a few clicks on the knobs. Anything higher than -12 will show it is in range from what i recall.

More subs is more consistency, and placement as you found is by far the most important part. The modeler helps a lot but testing is really the way to do it. The extra amp power could be used but you dont need it, that is the point. I almost never hit the 3rd light on my inukes simply because i have that much headroom and my gains are similar. More subs also reduces how much each has to contribute. I kept tweaking for days and hours until no change made it better. Kind of a quest for perfect. The only real benefit of that last 20% was to know i cant make it better. Yours is pretty darn good. The only thing that comes to mind is facing the drivers up may lose some tactile feel vs facing the lps, but with full martys it may not much matter. Kudos for shuffling around those monsters.

fantastic effort for a huge payout. i want to see a sweep starting at 5hz....those martys arent looking tired at 20 😀

Vanu ive made a few general comments here ill share a comparison i live in chicago where for my entire lifetime the cubs tried to outfox the rest of the league. they would try and be smarter than the rest of the league. they had almost all day games. they would trade away stars thinking they could do better with their farm team and scouts. they would bring back past stars after their prime and try to milk the emotional appeal. everything except sound club management. they outfoxed themselves, for over 100years, until they finally hired a brillant gm and let him do what was known to work elsewhere. a few years later they won their first world series. ive mentioned before i love your fire and fever for speakers. u want not just the best but a wow factor that will be the envy and forefront of subwoofers. the issue with that is you just cant jump ahead, skip the important elemental physics of speaker engineering and jump to a new technology and have a chance of making it work. i didnt comment on the sonotube idea here or on avs precisely because the idea of 2 24s in a long tube missed many important basic considerations.....a 24 can use 10cft sealed, let alone 20 or 30cft ported. 2 drivers are so heavy its unmanageable....and the box cant be made big enough to work well. i love theoretical discussions. But the best starting point is one of 2 things. either just read and learn without planning to build, or better yet specify to yourself exactly what it is you want to achieve in a subwoofer. Every possibility has pretty much been done, which is why i came to the possibility that you dont really know what you want so much as you want to design something new, unique, and mind blowing. the cubs couldnt do that. they first had to do it the conventional way, and their results were perfect. that was only because the goal was set clearly....win a championship.....not win better than anybody ever had....just win. food for thought. i really enjoy your thoughts, but feel youre struggling to filter what u really want. i hope u take this in the positive nudge it is intended to be

http://www.denofgeek.com/us/movies/master-and-commander/269288/master-and-commander-sequel-teased-by-russell-crowe

MaC such a great movie, not just the superb sound but just a totally different movie than almost everything else there are rumors of a MaC2, we can only hope ☺ glad its going so great, keep the dog eating dogfood lol!

check out diysoundgroup.com i built htm12s and then custom built something similar to a magnum12 mbm also on that site. i have a build thread for the htm12s on avsforum and at the end i added on the mbm build (mid bass modules) http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/2768257-roboavs-diysg-htm-12-build.html and also a build thread for my legacy subs here https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/165903-roboklipschs-diysg-4cft-ported-build-using-legacy-ef-15-driver/

i use 2 rp160ms and an rp250c. let me know what you are paying (pm me) and i might buy your extra from you and switch out my rp250c. even if you keep 6 you could setup a 6.x system where you put one rp on the back wall and the avr plays both rear channels through it. it would be 80% as good as having 2 back there. before the 7.x standard it was 6.x and before that 5.x.

the harmon papers are the best baseline for starting points. nothing replaces lots of measurements i spent probably 200 hours measuring moving and fine tuning and learning my goal was to have every seat identical after a while new changes not only dont improve response but degrade it...thats when u know you are close my 3 couch seats even in a l shaped room are identical within a few db and response is flat no dips or peaks position is the hard part, after that setting delays on each sub and eq are the final steps to greatness i use what would be considered 2 minimarties and 2 martycubes. the big ones are ultimax18s, the cubes are legacy 15s with a strong midbass slam. couldnt be happier 👍

xo scroll up i responded a couple post back 👍

We pay it forward here at Klipsch. The help guidance and deals I have gotten from people like cec, derrickddj, youthman -- who called me when i had a problem! -scrappy, wvu, and so many others. There are many audio forums but this one is truly nice people doing good deeds every day for others. There is almost no criticism or insults. When i first wanted a BIG sub Derrickddj invited me over, gave me demos, made recommendations and then came to my house a half dozen times on his own time and dime to help me. He is someone i will be forever grateful to...it made the difference between becoming a basshead or getting scared off. Welcome and I hope you settle on the very best option for YOU all things considered.

If u can switch to desktop version u can see my theaters in my signature. Living room is rp160ms with an rp250c, and 4 bookshelves along with 4 infinity sealed subs. Lightly treated room. Basement is my baby, Diysg htm12s for lcr, custom mbms for midbass, klipsch rs52s, rb51s and 4 very big ported subs in a theater level of room treatment. Id guess i have 125db available across the board using external amps. Subs are flat response to about 10hz. I LOVE movies and games.

This is the link to the trusted dealer. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/profile/59101-metropolislakeoutfitters/ This link below is a very well known member who not only is a very experienced speaker builder but also an expert in Klipsch, so much so he is a moderator on this forum. He is not a dealer but knows enough to give u great advice so ask him anything you want to know. He has given me advice many times and i consider him a very valuable friend to have here at Klipsch. My mbm build is a direct result of conversations with him. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/profile/13087-cecaa850/

Great that you made the effort and gave demos a shot, annoying as heck the Klipsch dealer didnt have bookshelf samples. Heres a few thoughts. There is a very well known and trusted Klipsch dealer that inhabits this forum all the time. If you PM him he will give you a deeply discounted quote on anything you want, and as a Klipsch dealer, he will sell and send them to you with full warranty. I get u have an interest in the bigger towers. That is fine....but scratch and dent imo is not the best deal. BUT if u did that, the matching line is the rp160ms, which will give you an almost perfect match. It may be hard to grasp, but most of the benefits of the rp280fs will be much less because you will be using subs. Ive had large, medium and small towers and bookshelves. And changed from towers to bookshelves. See what quote u get from the dealer, he may be able to meet or beat your target.

that is sufficient, roughly the size of the port itself. however the speaker itself at that distance will be influenced by its proximity to the wall. If you have flexibility the best thing is to try a few different distances. if u r using an autocorrection avr it will likely flatten the response wherever it may be at about a foot to a foot and a half the influence from the wall will be minimal ideally the front 3 should be the same dustance from u

i much prefer to the sides as illustrated, but with the seats and surrounds so far back im concerned it may not work well so i wiuld test until it works best