Peter P.
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Posts posted by Peter P.
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I hate blocking windows-THE VIEW! THE SUNLIGHT!
Buy speakers that don't block the window. If you're not satisfied with the bass because speaker size will limit
bass, then get a sub to fill your room volume.
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14 hours ago, djkuula said:
Bingo! I took off the port and stuck my hand in. Turns out the screw was semi-glued to the insulation and pulling fluff into the hole when I unscrewed it! I gently peeled off the insulation with one hand while unscrewing the post from the outside with the other, and voila!
Success! Good for you.
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Remove the port or the terminal panel and take a peek inside; they're only screwed on.
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I think floorstanders are overkill if you're going to use a sub. Floorstanders make sense to me mostly
in a 2-channel music application where you're looking for full-range reproduction in a convenient,
no-sub configuration. Adding sub to floorstanders is merely icing on the cake.
Since it sounds like your intended application is movies, I'd say get bookshelf speakers and a sub.
The size of the subwoofer is dictated by the available space to place it, how much volume it is
needed to fill sound-wise, and your budget. Bigger is always better as long as you can afford it.
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Usually, but mostly for marketing purposes, version III is better than II is better than I, with anything. But those
improvements aren't necessarily radical. I think the "consecutive serial number" business was created because
they would share matching veneers. Good for resale but has nothing to do with sound.
Get the Is if you want vintage for an all-vintage setup. Whether the cabinets need repairs and if you're capable
of the work is up to you. Also, they're the cheapest. If they're the plywood models then they're badazz lookin'!
Get the IIs well, just because of the consecutive serial number jazz. I have IIs and they're fine.
Get the IIIs because they're the latest and greatest of your choices, you think you'll hear a difference, the peanut gallery
won't bug you with REPLACE THE CAPACITORS!, and serial numberage be damned!
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Just buy an impedance matching speaker selector and jam throughout the house without a worry.
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Call me crazy with my rationale for this, but since the Chorus came in two iterations-one having bass ports and the other having a passive radiator, I'd buy a subwoofer with the matching feature with the unproven reason that the bass will sound similar i.e., ported speakers with a ported sub and passive-passive. So by all means get the SW150 if it matches your Chorus and the price is attractive.
I have an SVS sub and will say they are a great value, with equally great pre-sale support to answer your questions, and post-sale support.
I bought mine from the web site's Outlet and saved a few dollars.
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On 2/12/2024 at 2:00 PM, babadono said:
I can't buy 1 LaScala? Another manufacturer screwing themselves out of a sale. Really?
Well, you know all this drama about "consecutive serial numbers". Can't upset the sequence by buying just one, so buy a pair and
throw one away. 😚
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The amp heats up and things expand, perhaps crossing the gap of a broken solder joint.
That would be my guess.
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On 1/21/2024 at 3:17 PM, Woofers and Tweeters said:
It seemed to have covered everything except audio addiction
In line with this book, I'm almost done reading The Naked Mind-Control Alcohol: Find Freedom, Discover Happiness and Change Your Life by Annie Grace. I don't drink alcohol but wanted to find out why this is such a powerful book.
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It could be something as simple as a bad crimp connection. I would remove each spade terminal and test one at a time so you don't
confuse + and -. Test for continuity or low resistance from the spade terminal to the first 2uF capacitor like babadono suggests, and do
the same from the tweeter's - terminal to the other spade terminal. If those test good, then move on to testing the capacitors.
I say this because it's real easy for most people to replace a bad crimp connector.
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Since you have a voltmeter, set it to AC Volts and put the leads on the tweeter screws at the crossover board.
Play some music and you should see the numbers bounce around. Increase the volume and the bouncing
remains but the numbers are higher. It might help to have a couple clip leads to do this.
If you see no numbers, then a component in the crossover has failed or there is a bad connection somewhere in there.
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The Cornwalls play lower than, and far outstrip, the Polks in efficiency. You'll be gasping for air when you listen to them.
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Sounds like the spider has come unglued.
Try playing NPR talk programs. Play at low volume. If it sounds okay a low volume but as the volume increases the problem
becomes more apparent, then it's the spider. You could also do this while turning down the bass control all the way and
increasing it slowly.
I would send the woofer out for a repair and I'm guessing the easiest way to access the spider is to remove the cone
so they would probably re-cone the woofer at the same time.
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You can't go wrong with Fortes and they can sit close to the front wall (2-10"). If they're available in AUS on the used market go for it but I was
under the impression they were rare down under. Also consider Chorus or Quartet but Fortes are the benchmark.
Sounds like you're a DIY'er, but would Heresy IVs with a pre-built sub be more cost effective? From a price standpoint, you could
always buy the Heresies and delay a subwoofer purchase.
Shakeydeal is right; the efficiency of Klipsch Heritage speakers will not only blow you away, it will blow THE NEIGHBORS away!
And please sell all your other speakers to please the wife.
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This is a great opportunity for your son to upgrade! 😀
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On 1/22/2024 at 9:27 PM, OO1 said:
the aftermarket recones will cost more money after expenses vs new ones , and they may not even sound like klipsch drones .
If it is so critical, and one would worry about the supposedly non-matching repair (audibly), then have BOTH passive radiators reconed.
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Here's a practical reason to get 'em off the floor-so they don't get wet.
If you have your floorstanding speakers in the basement, and the basement floods, the cabinets
will surely warp.
This dawned on me when my basement flooded once. I had about 1/4 inch of water and thank
goodness my kg sw subwoofer was on 1 inch metal coned feet (I bought it used, without any feet.)
I dream about buying a pair of LaScalas some day but wonder how I'd protect them from possible
water damage without getting them so high off the floor that it alters the sound.
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If I were the OP I'd ship the passive radiator to Simply Speakers and have them do the recone. Surely one can
live with the big hole in the cabinet for a week or two.
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You mostly don't hear bass frequencies; you more feel them than hear them. Subwoofers are designed to
dip into the "subsonic" frequency range. If the main driver on the sub is moving, the passive radiator on
the rear is moving, and in fact the passive radiator typical is tuned to pick up it's job where the active driver
trails off on the low end, so it is reproducing even lower, less able to hear frequencies.
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7 minutes ago, ksquared said:
So if it is the 2-channel output, with two Heresys, can the subwoofer then still be somehow used when listening?
I don't understand the question above, please rephrase.
From your original post I'd say you understand the differences between the RF-7 and the Heresy well.
I think a lot of people go for the Heresy because sound aside, of its long history, reputation, and vintage looks. It does voicedifferently than a 2-way but not alarmingly so.
Many people, including myself, recommend adding a subwoofer if you get the Heresy as the Heresy IV doesn't play as
low as even less expensive speakers in the Klipsch lineup including the RF-7. That holds true for music as well as movies
but it also depends on what music you prefer and how you tend to play it, loud, moderate, or soft. I think the Heresy only
begins to show its value when you're playing moderately to louder levels.
If your statement above is "how do you wire a subwoofer to your system" when you have the Heresy, that will depend on
the subwoofer you purchase as well as your power source. More information would help here.
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I'll say the 362 doesn't play as low as a Chorus because the cabinet volume is smaller.
The 362s cost less than a Cornwall because adding veneer is an expensive add-on,
particularly labor-wise.
All that matters is that you enjoy them.
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I believe this forum member performs RF-7 crossover work. His contact info is in the link I provided.
You'll have to contact him for costs.
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KLIPSCHORN RESTORATION FROM THE SIXTY YEARS
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
I don't believe he will need to unsolder them to check capacitance. Looking at the photo, he can simply disconnect one leg from the capacitor leading to the terminal strip. Then he can accurately measure the capacitance without all that mucky soldering jazz. Otherwise I agree; listen to them before changing parts.