M_Klipsches

I continue to be impressed with this subwoofer. If anyone is on the fence about building one, just do it. I can’t imagine being disappointed with the results. I’m certain I’ll be building another BFM design in the future, probably a THTLP. I’ve finally decided on a finish for this one. I’m probably going beyond my abilities, both in concept and execution. Oh well, sometimes ya gotta say WTF, and roll with it. I’ll post pictures once it’s finished. Unless it’s terrible, then I’ll post pictures of the Plan B redo.

I’ll cast a vote for the Crites CT120s. They were, at least to my aging ears, quite a bit smoother than the K77s on my La Scalas. Horn and guitar highs just sound better. Mine use the AA crossover, and no changes were required.

I did the same for my ‘80 (“U” Code) La Scalas. I just wanted to keep the old crossovers “stock”. Just in case someone down the road might want them the way they left Hope. Honestly, I didn’t hear much difference. The old ones must’ve been close to spec. But with all new parts, I figure they will be good for another thirty years.

Excellent choices. I’ve got those plans as well. I like the option of placing the THTLP on its end, that’s a big space saver. I think the horn mouth is pointed towards the wall to basically lengthen the horn? At least that’s my understanding of the theory. With your angled ceiling, I’d think that the horn mouth firing up would be the way to go. Honestly, after hearing the little T18 and what it’s capable of, I cant imagine two of the THTs in the same room. That should be spectacular. I’d also think capable of causing minor structural damage. I do like the idea of the “pillars” I think that would look great. Looking forward to seeing your progress.

Nice! Which ones did you decide to go with?

The Tubas don’t seem to need too much amp. I’m using a Yung 300w plate amp. I doubt you’d need much more than that for any of them, even the big ones. As far as cost they are really reasonable. I’ve got less than $300 in mine. However, it is still unfinished so a little more to spend. You will need to measure and make fairly straight cuts though 😀 Oh and you’ll need to follow directions. The designer is big on following directions, and sticking with the plan.

Forgot the Subwoofer question. I just built a T18 tuba sub it was fun and sounds great. Bill Fitzmaurice has some great designs, I’m definitely going to build another one of his subs. If you are moderately handy, it’s worth a look. https://billfitzmaurice.info/index.html

Fwiw. I’m using an RC-62ii with RP-280Fs which are the previous model to your RP-8000Fs, so I’m going to say that will work well. I’d prefer the RC-64 but it’s really big, in size and $, plus my wife is still adjusting to the RP-280Fs, so that’s not going to happen anytime soon. I have used RB-61iis in that set up and thought they sounded good, but I had placement issues with those and switched to RP502S, still some placement issues (WAF). I’ll bet the RB-81ii would sound great with your RP8000.

Ok had a chance to play with the still unfinished T18 in the room with the LaScalas & Heresys. I had recently moved my DIY 15” sealed box subwoofer to a back corner. This alone made a significant difference in that sub. Increased volume, better and more evenly dispersed bass. I first ran the T18 solo with the LS. Super balanced sound, it compliments the LS, not overwhelming them, nor getting left behind. Just clean bass that sounds like it’s coming from the La Scalas. Perfect for music. Then tried Heresys in 5.2, I cued up the party/club scene from John Wick 2, switched on both subs, and let the magic happen. It was over the top. Both subs are staying in that system. Although, I do need to secure a couple of resonant items that are trying to ruin the good times. I’m guessing the radiator and horn subs aren’t supposed to work together? It seems like they do. I’m for sure no expert.

“ the first thing my wife said we I got home was : Wow they are ugly. The second thing: they are big!” Almost word for word what my wife said about my LaScalas, after she helped me move them in and saw them unpacked. Those look really good, I do like the “patina”. I’ve always regretted what I did do my first H1s after I got the paint off. I stained & polyeurethaned them. Which has held up well, and should last forever. However, I wish I’d just done a tung oil varnish on them. It really brought out the beauty of my La Scalas which are LS-BR. Even she doesn’t hate them, quite as much as she did that first day.

With my first H1s, one of them had a pop/cut out that turned out to be the connection at the back of the speaker terminal. I’m sure you checked this, but worth mentioning. Good luck with the issue, also with bringing back the Walnut finish. Be super careful, especially if sanding. I had to remove three coats of paint from mine. Oh, do NOT do this in your kitchen, even if your wife is out of town for the weekend. You will not get it completely finished and cleaned up before she gets back. Trust me

Nice work. Your measurements and cuts for your braces were far superior to mine. Actually all your cuts are superior to mine. I’d really like to use one, as a table. So what’s your take on T18 v Table Tuba?

You are welcome @MookieStl actually I may owe @zobsky as well. I was so pleased with the T18 I was already looking over the plans for a Table Tuba. After the review I may build another T18. Although I suppose I should finish this one first. On that front, I’ve narrowed the finish choices down to two.

Fwiw, this was 30hz test tone at 90db. Under reasonable circumstances it wouldn’t be an issue. Well then again, there is probably a reason my music room isn’t in the house. That does seem about the practical limit for this sub in that room. Two of them would likely work well with those Belle clones. I think it’s awesome that you built those. That’s some pro level cabinet making. Damned impressive.

I used the Dayton DCS 205-4. The Tang Band W8-740 is also suggested. I went with the Dayton because the specs were close, and it was quite a bit less expensive. The depth of the driver can be “no more than 5 3/8”. This is important, because there ain’t much room when attaching the driver.

Some initial testing yielded this text from my wife. Note. My music room is not even in the house. Completely detached building. She’s a tolerant woman.

I’m hoping to gain a little bit. Those RPs can go pretty low though.

I was testing it with the La Scalas it sounded pretty good and seemed able to keep up and enhanced the low end for sure. It’s not a large room, 16’X20’X7’, but probably would need two, to do it right. It certainly is a clean bass note, not boomy at all. I built a diy sub that I use with The La Scalas for music & five Heresys for gaming and occasional movies.

Thank you. I did the cuts myself. I just followed the plans and didn’t take too many liberties. There were more than a few “blade’s width” trims for sure. I did pre-cut all the pieces beforehand, due to sketchy weather.

Thank ya. I know what you mean, the B Birch never seems to look as good stained as it should. Fortunately it doesn’t have to match the La Scalas, which are LS-BR with the patina of age & tung oil varnish. I’m hoping to get it in the Family Room, where it will be used with RP280Fs, which I veneered in oak to match the rest of the furniture in the room (WAF). I might get away without it matching, as it will be hidden in a corner behind a chair. Obviously, the smart choice is veneer & stain to match the RPs.

Cabinet assembly is complete and it is functional, with no obvious air leaks. I’m still Deciding on finishing options. I’m not going black, I’d never get that nice shiny lacquer that @CECAA850 had on the one he built. Straight Tung Oil, or Danish oil over the Baltic Birch mostly works and is easy; veneer has a high WAF and my hope is to get this in the family room, so that makes the most sense, except I’d like to keep the cost down. Anyway here is a pic of its current state.

Of that, there is no doubt. It was foolish pride that kept me from asking for her help in the first place.

It took my wife less than three minutes to find it. I looked for it for two hours, and I knew what I was looking for. She was only going on my description of the box, and less than three minutes.

Final assembly stage is coming to a close. Just passed air leak tests with no apparent issues. Spent two hours looking for my gasket tape. It’s officially missing. If anyone has any idea what I’ve done with it, let me know. I’m sure some sort of weatherstripping would suffice? Then again PE, ships quickly. Or, maybe I’ll remember where the hell I put it. I’ll add some pictures, once it’s buttoned up.

They are still up, the keyhole mount is working perfectly. Absolutely no issues. As long as you properly affix the mollybolts this seems a secure mounting method.