tpg

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My favorite shot of my cat... My larger version of that looks like the light is shining right in the window on her face. It looks a bit less defined when resized.

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---------------- On 7/24/2005 8:29:09 PM Seadog wrote: eBay. I recently saw one go for about $175, which was lower than most. ---------------- Weren't they less than that brand new?!

I will check for the aux fan and anything that may be causing it to not work. I am fairly certain that our main fan is fine... we replaced it with a new one a few months ago. Thanks for the suggestions.

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---------------- On 7/8/2005 8:36:36 PM CAS wrote: When I tune mine to roll off at 25 (which is still good till near 20 and still more capable extension than the sub-12 can accomplish) I lose a great deal of material that was very audibly there before. ---------------- Here, here. I just did some enclosure changing for my sub (a Blueprint 1503) from a large vented enclosure, to large sealed, to small sealed and the difference is quite notable. The change from large vented to large sealed was not so bad... it sounded tons better for music and still shook plenty of things for music. Going to small sealed, though, I lost a lot of lower energy and shake fator during movies, but music presentation is light years better. LOTR is just not quite the same anymore... But still decent.

The general rule is that you want to keep the speakers all as closely matched by voice as possible. So, in this case, your KV-3 is best suited for the job. You might get some of the KG-4 woofers off of eBay and see if you can find a KG-4 tweeter and crossover there as well (they come up from time to time) and build your own custom center using identical KG-4 parts (although you will most likely need to magnetically shield all of them). Going with Reference would probably not provide a good match. I am currently running Legends (KLF-30) up front with Reference center and surrounds, which seems to match pretty well. I've run KG-2.5's in the past, and can say that the KG series and Reference are different animals. The KLF-C7 would probably match closer than a Reference center, and since it didn't work out, I wouldn't bet too much on the RC-3/RC-35. Perhaps someone here has had some experience in this area, though, and can provide different insight...

I did some quick research a few days ago and found that the Velodyne HGS-X series are around the $2000 mark. The new Velodyne DD series is supposed to be better, though, right? But their prices were MUCH higher from what I saw. I am pretty sure a Velo HGS-X 15 will be my next upgrade (if I ever secure the funding as an unemployed student...)

I've never heard either, specifically... I once heard a malfunctioning M&K sub and have heard the RSW-12, though, for what it's worth... Anyway, differences are sure to be noticed. M&K's subs are dual-driver push-pull sealed subs. They will, no doubt, sound great for music. The push-pull concept was developed to reduce distortion and cancel out bad effects from irregularities with the drivers. Being sealed subs, though, I am not sure how they would be for movies. M&K offers two THX certified models, though, so I am guessing they have great movie performance as well. The RSW-15 is said to not have much output below 30Hz, but I am not sure if that is the case. It is a 15" sub with a passive radiator... surely it still packs a punch down low. Tom Nousaine's list of subs put the RSW-15 in the top 10 for output, I think. Most say, though, that the RSW-15 is best for rock music. Both are very capable subs, though, so it would seem...

Well, I'll try to answer some of your questions... They say the RSW-15 is best left to rock music, but many use them for movies. Tom Nousaine's sub comparison put the RSW-15 in the top 10, I think, which is very good. I would think a vented (passive radiator) sub would have decent, if not very good, response to 20Hz or below. SVS subs are also vented (most of the time, people prefer vented subs for movies and sealed subs for music). There isn't a better choice between the cylinder or box subs, I don't think. It is mostly a matter of personal preference. I used to like cylinders, but now, I much prefer the box subs. The different subs offered vary by which woofer is in them and how many woofers are in them. The cylinders only have one woofer, while the box subs have as many as four. SVS offers their ISD woofer, which is a budget model, the Plus woofer, which is somewhere in the middle, and the Ultra woofer, which is their best model. They also have a 10-inch model, but I'd say it was out of the question here, given your mains. My personal favorite from SVS is their PB-12Plus/2 in Rosewood finish, which matches two of their Plus woofers with a 900-watt amp. It should perform quite well for movies. Depending on how loud you listen (and how much space you want to devote to a sub), you may prefer their smaller single-woofer boxes with as much as an Ultra driver, or maybe even their massive four-driver box. The Sunfire is a sealed sub that matches high-excursion drivers to a lot of power and EQ. I've heard that they are very musical. I like the concept of the small sub putting out tons of sound. I am also a fan of the servo subs from Velodyne. I am currently torn between the PB-12Plus/2, the M&K 750THX (I think that is the model...) and the Velodyne HGS-X 15. I cannot afford to make a sub purchase at the moment, but these are on my list to choose from. Since you are a fan of classical music, you would probably love one of the servo subs. Their price tag is pretty high, though. I'll go so far as to throw M&K subs out there at you as well. They are a push-pull sealed sub. The push-pull idea is supposed to cancel out distortion and irregularities caused by the driver's suspension. An interesting concept... And, they have a couple of THX models that are promising for great HT performance. For a better recommendation, though, we have to wonder... How loud do you listen to movies and music? What is your budget?

Just out of curiosity, are your speakers' serial numbers consecutive? Mine are off by six (one ends in 243 and the other in 249). I would think that all parts would be the same... but maybe there were minor differences with different shipments of drivers and ours just happened to be made on the changeover.

I am still toying with the idea of upgrading, but perhaps using less "high end" parts than before in some circumstances. My main goal is to get every little bit of the best sound possible from the 30's. My sources and amplification are not the best, but I'd prefer to start inside and move out. I've been doing electronics work for a few years and am decent at it, so I am not afraid, necessarily, of doing an upgrade or scratch build myself. I just fear that the difference won't be as noticeable as I might hope for the amount of money it would take... There is a lot of considering with an upgrade decision like this.

I've been thinking the same thing about my KLF-30's. I adjusted the level of the right speaker, which seemed to help out during music playback, but with pink noise tests for surround calibration, it noticeably sounds different to me. I was thinking I was the only one who noticed these kind of things...

I got the crossover upgrade bug today (among many other upgrade bugs- it's summer... what can I say) and started looking through my "archives" at all my Klipsch crossover schematics (I don't have very many, though). Since I have the KLF-30's and RF-3's, I mainly focused on them. Based on my own personal opinions, I wanted all Jantzen 12-guage copper foil inductors, Solen caps for woofer section, Audiocaps for mid/tweeter, and Mills/Reidon non-inductive resistors. So, I totaled up my bill.... We do not even want to discuss prices. OH MY! (Ok, prices were in the $250-350 range, not including autoformers). I was wanting to build up a pair of crossovers for my own use and maybe build some for other users here with similar speakers so they could post results and opinions (plus it would give me something to do- building crossovers for people- and I desperately need something to do). I was also wanting to upgrade the internal wiring (I've noticed Klipsch likes using 16 and 18 guage wire, which I am not fond of). Buying a spool of decent wire would run much more as well. So, this left me wondering... Is it really worth it? I'll have half what my speakers are worth just in crossover parts. If I were to sell them, I'd have $400 in parts. Who would want to pay that plus a building fee? I suppose I just got beat by another project... That is like a running total of 5+ projects that have beat me in the past week. I am curious to know how others feel about these kind of prices.

I've always heard good things about Roadrunner. I have DSL, which works ok, though it is quite quirky for me (my modem is THE FIRST USB modem offered). Most other people don't experience the strange problems I do... As a general rule, cable is faster (and most often cheaper).

In my experiences, FedEx is tons better than UPS in terms of delivery time and handling manner. And, they're cheaper to boot. If these are your concerns, I'd say you should end up ok...

I don't think I've ever had a life. What are those?

Reading this is depressing... why do I keep paying so much? I put more money than that in my pairs of KG-2.5's when I bought them two or three years ago. Since, I've spent a few thousand or so... I am going to go lay down.

Wow... these are only 30 miles from me! I've never seen any Klipsch go for sale this close to home. He is asking way too much for me, though.

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That looks pretty good... I'll definitely keep it in mind. Thanks! I was just looking at the Paramour again... I notice they say it uses a CRC filter. Perhaps one could lose some hum by going CLC. I'd definitely look into that if I got a set. The ASL is quite nice looking, though, but shipping might be a killer from Canada (small price to pay, though).