inMotionGraphics
-
Posts
216 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by inMotionGraphics
-
-
7 hours ago, Randyh said:
to make sound insulation thick panels you can re-use large office sectional dividers- these are available in all sizes at any liquidation office store ,and they always have the odd single or 2 panels in top shape -framed - insulated and pleated fabric -no need to reframe unless you want to add a special touch -they will do a lot better job at sound insulation as they are designed to cut noise on 2 sides , and way better that Roxul Rockboard or expensive foam insulation -but they will be thicker and perfectly square -
The OP is asking about acoustic treatments using Rockwool, so this would imply that he is wanting sound absorption panels, and isn't concerned with sound insulation. Sound insulation is a whole different beast, although I'm not familiar with these sound insulation office panels you are referring to, so if they have sound absorption properties like rockwool etc, then they may well be relevant. But generally in my experience, sound absorption panels don't help with sound insulation, unless you add some kind of noise barrier to the them like the Flexible Noise Barrier (mass loaded vinyl) that I put on the back of some of mine.
-
Thanks Alexander, I appreciate that. And yes, the ATS acoustics panels will be great if you don't want to make them yourself. Guilford of Maine Fabric does seem like the fabric of choice for acoustically transparent material in the USA, so you can't go wrong with that option.
Another company that I hear good things about from the pros, is GIK acoustics: https://www.gikacoustics.com/product-category/acoustic-panels/, but they are probably more expensive than the ATS panels.
Let us know what you decide and post photos with the final results... 🙂
PS: If anyone is wondering why some of my frames are on 25mm thick instead of the recommended minimum of 50mm, that's because those ones are hanging on my door and covering glass windows on the door, along with the Flexible noise barrier backing, so they had to be thin enough and tapered so the door could open wide enough without jamming the panels against the wall. Always make your broadband panels are at least 50mm thick, but closer to 100mm if practical would be even better.
-
1
-
-
Having been through this process myself, I would say yes, it would be advisable to build frames so you can pull the acoustically transparent material tight around it and place the rockwool inside the frames... here are a few photos of my process in case it helps.
Note: I also added some "Flexible Noise Barrier" (mass loaded vinyl) as a backing on some of mine that were going in front of glass windows to try and stop some of the sound passing through the windows... 🙂
-
2
-
-
Thank you @moray james for elaborating on your suggestion, and my apologies for only responding now. I got really busy with work last year, so had to put this project on hold until now. I really like your idea with the rockwool (of which I have plenty left over from my acoustic absorption panels I built). I'm a bit concerned however that the mineral fibers will get into my speaker motor structures, considering it will be directly above and around them. Is this a valid concern and if so, is there something I can do to protect my speakers from these mineral fibers?
At this stage, my plan is to get some thick under carpet felt (roughly 12mm thick) to cover the side and back walls to add a bit of weight and dampening to the walls, since I didn't include any additional bracing in the boxes. Then I would either add the mineral wool sheets like @moray james suggested, or if I can't solve the fibers getting into the speakers issue, then just regular Dacron filling that I'll hopefully be able to source locally from material shops.
Do you guys think this will work well under the circumstances, and any ideas for dealing with my rockwool fibers concern would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
Brendon
-
Hi guys, thank you very much for your input on this. So the takeaway I get from this is that the subs are the same technically and sound performance wise as far as we can tell, but most would agree that the 115's look better. The price difference here in South Africa is marginally different, but I might have to go with the new one in case I want to get another one later and would end up with two different looking ones...
-
Has anyone done a direct comparison between the new SPL-150 and the old R-115SW 15 inch subwoofers? I can get both here in South Africa at the moment, but I am unsure which one would be the better one to go with. The specs on paper look virtually identical from what I can tell, and I know the 115 had some amp issues, while the new 150 has an entirely new amp in it. So that alone should be reason enough to go with the new version, but I must be honest, I do like the build and look of the old version more. The plinth and baffle face plate on old one give it a more refined and upmarket look in my opinion.
So I'm wondering whether there is any real world performance differences and if one is actually better than the other. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
-
1 hour ago, Makidaki said:
About the dolby atmos speakers: i rarely watch an movie with dolby atmos - will the speaker still make some effect noises ( i would put them on the ceiling)
Yes, they certainly will make some great "effect noises", even without native Dolby Atmos or DTS-X sources. The reason being that you will be using the Dolby Atmos upmixer on anything from 2 channel stereo up to 7.1 multi-channel Dolby audio tracks to upmix to all your speakers in your Dolby Atmos setup. And in the case of DTS audio tracks, you'll use the Neural X upmixer to upmix to all your speakers. In my personal experience, both the Dolby Atmos and the DTS-X upmixers work great for movies and TV Shows and are totally worth the investment, and the Dolby Atmos upmixer even works great for music if you turn the center spread on.
PS: And yes, this receiver should be more than capable of handling your proposed speaker setup...
-
2
-
1
-
-
2 hours ago, Mark B said:
The other possibility that I've thought of, but "she who must be obeyed" wont like it, is to
wall mount the TV above the stand, and have the center sitting on top.That's exactly what I ended up doing and it works great!
-
The RP-504C is rear ported, so that probably wouldn't be ideal, but if I am not mistaken, it is slightly too wide for your cabinet anyway. Which RP center were you planning on using?
In addition to @wuzzzer's recommendation, I would also consider using isolation feet or pads to decouple the speaker cabinet from your TV cabinet. So if you find a center in the RP line that isn't rear ported, decouple it and position it flush or proud of the cabinet, there should be no issues in my opinion.
-
4 hours ago, johanness said:
They could probably be painted to match no? Those stick out quite a bit
Yes, they can definitely be painted, and are designed to be painted. The owners manual provides basic instructions, but you'll also find tips and advice on this forum when it comes to painting these grills.
-
I agree with @HenrikTJ regarding the PRO series (I have the PRO-180RPC's).
11 hours ago, HenrikTJ said:Im not a 100% on this, but I think they come with white covers. You can always paint them over though!
They do come with white covers, although when mounted on a while ceiling, they're actually more an off white or grey shade. Here's what mine look like for what it's worth...
-
1
-
-
35 minutes ago, Ceptorman said:
Haha....it's a reference to a Honda Interceptor motorcycle....I've had about a dozen of them in different sizes.
Ha, I've got a 2008 VFR 800 interceptor, and I had the model before this one as well. LOVE THIS BIKE! 😉
-
2
-
-
As a matter of interest, what is the difference between the RP-160M and the RP-600M? I compared the two on Klipsch's website, but they look very similar. Or is the RP-160M just the preceding model to the 600M's?
-
Simply BRILLIANT! Enjoy the fruits of your labor...
PS: I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little jealous... 🙂
-
1
-
-
Very nice indeed! I'm sure it rocks for movies...
As a matter of interest, where are you hiding your equipment rack and subs, or did I overlook them in the photos?
-
46 minutes ago, S+J said:
Talking about ceiling mounted... currently I was going to go with my surround speakers to be in-ceiling due to my couch being directly against the back wall... would it be better to go with some in-wall speakers and out on back wall behind couch?
I'm afraid I don't have any experience with surround speakers being in-ceiling mounted, so wouldn't be the best person to advise you on this. However if you're going with a 5.1.x setup, and your couch is against the wall, then I'd rather add the surround speakers to the side of your listening positions or up to 10 degrees behind your listening position on the side walls. This is what Dolby recommends for 5.1.x setups. But if you already have your surrounds on the side walls, and were referring to adding rear surrounds for a 7.1.x setup, then I'm not sure which would sound better. If it were me, I'd probably stick to rear wall mounted, but use a bi-pole speaker type to disperse the sound a bit, but you'd need to try it to be sure. But you don't need anything in the rear for 5.1.x setup...
-
Definitely aim for 5.1.2 or 5.1.4 if you can... and your room could even accommodate 7.1.4 in my opinion, but I'd probably only add additional surround channels if your bed channels are wall mounted, not ceiling mounted. I hope this helps...
-
10 minutes ago, Thaddeus Smith said:
He was being snarky, indicating you couldn't be heard over the slamming bass.
Ah damn, sorry, that went over my head... it's 3am here so I'm probably not firing on all cylinders at the moment... my bad. 😳
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, Alvarop said:
We also love music , my G/F love it as much as I do.
G/F said every-time we add subs the house next door goes down in property value. Lol.
That's awesome bro, and yes, I think your G/F might be on to something there... 🙂
Thanks for the additional photo... now it all makes perfect sense... I'm definitely a little jealous... 😉
Enjoy mate!
Brendon
-
2 hours ago, codewritinfool said:
WHAT?
@codewritinfool, what didn't you understand about my question? I think it was pretty clear, and the OP understood me...
-
1
-
-
I can only imagine how EPIC that must sound! Is this only for music or do you have a home theater set up somewhere there as well?
-
13 hours ago, Mantas said:
How close would be too close for surrounds?
I would say anything under 1.5 meters would be too close (I'm about 1.7m from my closest side surround and 1.6m from my closest rear surround in my secondary seat/off center), however, I re-read your original post and see now that you're forced to mount your surrounds on the rear wall and that you'll be sitting right up against the rear wall. This obviously isn't ideal, but many people have made a setup like this work. I've heard experts recommend using bipole speakers for rear surrounds when you are up against the wall, and using absorption rather than diffusion for wall treatments on the rear wall.
But if you are leaning towards monopole speakers on the rear wall, then I'd say go for it. They will anyway be the right speakers for rear surrounds if you change rooms and move your couch away from the rear wall.
I also recommend familiarizing yourself with Dolby's recommendations here: https://www.dolby.com/us/en/speaker-setup-guides/index.html
-
While Dolby does recommend using monopole speakers for your side and rear surrounds (they say it helps position the sounds more accurately in the 3 dimensional space), I'm using bipole speakers for my side surrounds and I personally don't think it interferes with Dolby Atmos. But it probably comes down to personal taste, and I don't have anything to compare it to. I think a lot of people are still using biopole speakers on the side surrounds from their previous 5 and 7.1 setups. I also think the bipole speakers are a better choice if the side surrounds will be quite close to you.
But I do recommend that you use monopole speakers for your rear surrounds if possible.
-
21 minutes ago, Boilermaker86 said:
I don't know if it is only the material they changed, may be they changed the crossover too to make them sound smoother?
I believe the new tweeters are also vented now, which also helps them sound smoother... I've also only read and heard good things about the new tweeters.
SPL-150 vs. R-115SW Subwoofer Comparison
in Subwoofers
Posted
Ah, that's great to hear... I've got my new SPL-150 standing here in the box ready to go... only problem is I forgot to buy another subwoofer cable before we went into a nationwide lockdown, so I can't integrate it until businesses are allowed to open again... rookie mistake... 😞