Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

45 Excellent

About inMotionGraphics

  • Rank
    Forum Veteran

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    South Africa
  • Interests
    Kitesurfing, Surfing, Scuba Diving, Home Theater, DJing, Superbikes...

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Recent Profile Visitors

548 profile views
  1. Ah, I see... thanks for clarifying this. It might be different for us here in South Africa where we have 220v power, which would explain why I haven't seen any mention of this before... 🙂 Update: Out of interest, I checked the documentation that came with my SPL-150, and they do indeed mention adapters, however not in a way that would impact the performance of the subwoofer: "The use of AC plug adapters is cautioned because it can allow the product to be plugged into voltages in which the product was not designed to operate." I think they're referring to adapters like USA to UK or South Africa for example, where the mains voltages can be different from country to country. So this wouldn't apply to the strip adapter that you're using within your own country in my opinion, as you know the voltage of your mains and it should match the voltage setting at the back of the sub.
  2. Why do you say that if you don't mind me asking? I have my entire home theater plugged into surge protected power strips, including my subs.
  3. Ah, thank you. And yeah, your panels look great. I would still recommend you try a heavy curtain (drape) instead of the blinds in front of your sliding door, as the blinds probably won't be doing much to absorb reflections on the left side of the room. An added bonus of dark heavy drapes would be that they'd cut out more light which will improve your daytime movie watching etc. Lastly, your crossover settings sound quite low on most of your channels if I understood correctly. In my experience, auto room correction systems don't always get this right, and you might want to move these settings closer to 80hz and see if that doesn't sound better. But you definitely want them at least 10 - 20 hz higher than the low end rating of your speakers as @wvu80 pointed out above...
  4. For what it's worth, this is what I did in my apartment, and my upstairs neighbor says they no longer hear or feel anything when we're watching movies, although maybe they were just being polite at the time, but I've had no complaints and it seems like it did help reduce noise and vibration transmission, which was a nice bonus: A more detailed description of the build including the integrated acoustic absorption panels and decoupling seals etc can be found here:
  5. I would have suggested the opposite to what @RANDYH is saying regarding your Dolby Atmos speakers. The best placement for Dolby Atmos speakers is overhead in the ceiling, although it wouldn't be wrong mount them on the walls like you have if you can't put them on the ceiling. But if you're complaining about lack of sound separation and you want Dolby Atmos to be more effective, then you should be moving your Dolby Atmos height speakers higher and further away from your bed layer channels, not closer or lower in my opinion. I have my Dolby Atmos speakers in the ceiling and I couldn't be happier with the performance of Dolby Atmos, so I would suggest once you've tried @RANDYH's suggestions (don't move them permanently), then try following Dolby Atmos' guidelines as closely as is convenient in your room, and see which you like more. You'll find everything you need to know here: https://www.dolby.com/us/en/guide/speaker-setup-guides/7.1.4-overhead-speaker-setup-guide.html For what it's worth, I would move the surround speakers further back as per dolby guidelines, but if you prefer them where you have them, that's fine too. You have very good equipment in your system, so if you follow the Dolby Atmos guidelines as closely as reasonably possible and the room treatment suggestions others have made above, you should have a brilliant and very immersive, detailed sound. I hope this helps.
  6. This is the same cable I use, just without the y-link, so it shouldn't be the cable. I have heard that some systems have a grounding issue when it comes to the subs, although I haven't personally experienced this issue. For this, they make subwoofer cables that include a ground connection like the AudioQuest Blacklab Subwoofer Cable: https://www.audioquest.com/cables/analog-interconnects/subwoofer-cables/black-lab. You'll find a screw on the back of your plate amp on your subwoofer that you can attach the ground terminal to. I don't want to encourage you to buy a new cable, as I haven't got any personal experience with this issue, but just thought I'd mention it in case it helps you narrow down the issue. Perhaps someone else on the forum will be able to suggest alternative ways for you to troubleshoot a grounding issue.
  7. Yikes, are you sure you want to go that far? I personally think 7.2.4 is more than enough, and I'd rather use the extra budget for RF7's... 😉 I haven't heard the CDT's, but I do have the Pro's in my ceiling for my Atmos speakers, and they are awesome. The Tweeter and Woofer Angle's are not adjustable on the Pro's, but this isn't an issue for Atmos speakers in my opinion, at least not in my room. There's probably a good reason Klipsch decided to drop the adjustable tweeter feature with the newer PRO's. And yes, you probably will want to keep the grills on if you go with the PRO's... 🙂
  8. I'm using the Pro-180RPC for my in-ceiling Atmos speakers, and can confirm that the cutout dimension is 24.9cm, which would be your 9.8 inches. I don't have the LCR version, so can't confirm the cutout dimension of those, but i think it's safe to assume that the larger cutout is correct, as the angling bracket looks like it takes up more space. I'm confident you can trust the Klipsch dimensions given on their product pages.
  9. I have plenty of regular RCA cables that I no longer use, but they're all the regular 1m or 1.5m lengths, which probably won't be long enough to move the sub around to find the optimum position and integrate it with my other sub. But I'll go through my cables just in case... 🙂
  10. Ah, that's great to hear... I've got my new SPL-150 standing here in the box ready to go... only problem is I forgot to buy another subwoofer cable before we went into a nationwide lockdown, so I can't integrate it until businesses are allowed to open again... rookie mistake... 😞
  11. The OP is asking about acoustic treatments using Rockwool, so this would imply that he is wanting sound absorption panels, and isn't concerned with sound insulation. Sound insulation is a whole different beast, although I'm not familiar with these sound insulation office panels you are referring to, so if they have sound absorption properties like rockwool etc, then they may well be relevant. But generally in my experience, sound absorption panels don't help with sound insulation, unless you add some kind of noise barrier to the them like the Flexible Noise Barrier (mass loaded vinyl) that I put on the back of some of mine.
  12. Thanks Alexander, I appreciate that. And yes, the ATS acoustics panels will be great if you don't want to make them yourself. Guilford of Maine Fabric does seem like the fabric of choice for acoustically transparent material in the USA, so you can't go wrong with that option. Another company that I hear good things about from the pros, is GIK acoustics: https://www.gikacoustics.com/product-category/acoustic-panels/, but they are probably more expensive than the ATS panels. Let us know what you decide and post photos with the final results... 🙂 PS: If anyone is wondering why some of my frames are on 25mm thick instead of the recommended minimum of 50mm, that's because those ones are hanging on my door and covering glass windows on the door, along with the Flexible noise barrier backing, so they had to be thin enough and tapered so the door could open wide enough without jamming the panels against the wall. Always make your broadband panels are at least 50mm thick, but closer to 100mm if practical would be even better.
  13. Having been through this process myself, I would say yes, it would be advisable to build frames so you can pull the acoustically transparent material tight around it and place the rockwool inside the frames... here are a few photos of my process in case it helps. Note: I also added some "Flexible Noise Barrier" (mass loaded vinyl) as a backing on some of mine that were going in front of glass windows to try and stop some of the sound passing through the windows... 🙂
  • Create New...