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  1. In addition to the above, I just thought of something else that might help... if the amp you get has an ARC or eARC HDMI connection, and your TV also has one, then switching the amp on shouldn't be an issue at all. They will effectively be synced together, and switching the one on and off, should switch the other on and off.
  2. I might not be in a position to answer your question directly, especially if by "amp" you are planning on buying just an amp and not a receiver (AVR). I haven't used power amps since my original and over the top powerful home theater from about 15 years ago, so i can't advise you on the functionality of just an amp with a TV in this day and age. However, if you are considering purchasing an AVR (receiver), then this is easily solved in a number of ways. However, when going with an AVR setup, I would recommend rather making the receiver the central control point. Most decent receivers from the well known brands (Yamaha, Denon, Marantz etc) should have no trouble controlling the basic functions of your TV. And if you connect your TV to your receiver via an ARC or eARC enabled HDMI connection, your TV and receiver will turn on and off together with one action, and volume will be control via your receiver remote. I also think you'll get a better experience overall making your receiver the central control point rather than your TV. Now if you really want to control all your devices from just one remote and pack all your other remotes away permanently, one of the best investments I've made in my home theater to date is investing in the not-so-cheap Logitech Harmony Elite system. This one universal remote has literally replaced 7 remotes I was previously relying on to control everything that is connected to my home theater system. After setting the remote up to control everything, I haven't needed to take out any of the original remotes again. It handles everything from complex setups on my Yamaha A2070 receiver, Smart TV, TV Apps, Blue-Ray player, Sat TV Box, Amazon Fire Stick, Smart Lights etc... and all the actions can be triggered by my Google Home Assistant (or Alexa), so your system can be voice activated as well. Best investment ever for me! πŸ™‚ ...but if your goal is just a small amp and TV, then I'm sure someone on the forum will advise you on this soon... πŸ™‚
  3. Wow, that's very interesting. Thank you for the clarification. I actually purchased them from my local dealer (physical store/show room) in South Africa - which is where I buy all my Klipsch and Yamaha gear. I know they do high-end installations, so that is maybe how they got them. But also strange that Klipsch support would recommend a speaker that I should actually not have access to... unless that only applies in the US... πŸ™‚ I must say, I'm very happy with these speakers, and I definitely don't feel like I need to angle the woofer and tweeter towards me. Since these appear to be a new model, I thought perhaps Klipsch had decided this was no longer a necessary feature, especially for effects speakers. Either way, they work great, and they pack a punch for what they are...
  4. @MetropolisLakeOutfitters, you're probably the right guy to ask about this... the guys at Klipsch support recommended their PRO-180RPC when I asked them which in-ceiling speakers I should get for my Dolby Atmos upgrade that will work well with their Reference Premiere and RF7 ranges, which is what I ended up getting. So I've been wondering for a while now what the difference is between the PRO-180RPC and the CDT-5800-C-II. Are you able to shed some light on this, and which are the better match to their new flagship ranges? Thank you. Brendon
  5. I totally agree with what everyone has said above, but I just wanted to chime in and reassure you that I too had to mount my rear surround speakers above the door frame height, and while it isn't the height Dolby recommends exactly, you can have peace of mind that they work great and sound excellent at that height. So go for it, and enjoy the fruits of your labor...
  6. They are EXCELLENT in my opinion! I actually contacted Klipsch support and explained what I am planning and asked them which would be the absolute BEST speakers I could get from their in-ceiling speaker range, and this is what they recommended. These will match their RP and RF range perfectly. And you definitely don't need the tweeter aimed at you. I think they did away with this feature in this new model for a reason. And you know you've got a very capable speaker in your ceiling when you run auto room calibration and it sets all your speakers to small, but sets your mains and the PRO-180RPC in-ceilings to large... LOL I of course set them to small manually, but was just funny to see... Anyway, they work brilliantly for Atmos and DTS-X, and sound great with music, even on their own. I wouldn't know how they compare to other in-ceiling speakers, but I couldn't be happier with them, and will add another pair if/when I upgrade my theater to a bigger or dedicated room. Sounds like heaven to me... I'm a little jealous... πŸ˜‰
  7. Thank you @LawCPA, I appreciate your feedback. And no, I haven't shared it on AVS or anywhere else yet. I was planning on posting in the "Lets see your Home Theater" thread on this forum at some point. When I do that, I'll be sure to share it on AVS as well. Thanks for the suggestion.
  8. Wow, those 4 x R-115SW's must pack a decent punch in this room! What I would give to have 4 of those babies in my setup. Sadly, they are so expensive here in South Africa, so I'll have to keep saving... πŸ™‚ For what it's worth, I would definitely go in-ceiling for your height channels if you can... just the way you described. I recently added 2 x PRO-180RPC in-ceiling speakers, and it way surpassed my expectations and was totally worth the effort:
  9. @angelluisg I did see your speakers in your list, which is how I know what the frequency responses of your front and center speakers are. Even if Audyssey set your crossovers at 40hz and 60hz, you can (and probably should) override these settings so that they fall well within the capabilities of your speakers. None of your speakers can operate effectively down to 40hz, so you should let your subwoofers handle these low frequencies. If I were you, I would start by raising your crossover frequencies for your fronts and center to 80hz. See how that sounds and then experiment from there, but I wouldn't go much lower than 80 if it were my system. Then if you want more immersive sound, try increasing the volume of your surround and atmos speakers. Remember, Audyssey should just be a starting point. Don't be afraid to make minor tweaks and adjustments to improve things to your liking. I hope this helps. Brendon
  10. I'm not sure it's possible to advise you remotely on what levels to set your speakers at so that you get more immersive sound, as every room is different and will have different characteristics and requirements. However we can address this crossover issue, and there are various schools of thought on this, which you'll ultimately have to decide on what works best for you. In my opinion, you have your center and fronts set too low. Your frequency response of your fronts is rated at: 59Hz-24KHz Β± 3dB, and the frequency response of your center is rated at: 58-25kHz +/- 3dB. So setting your fronts to 60Hz is a bit too low as you need to factor the roll off in, and setting your center to 40Hz is way too low, as this falls way below the capabilities of your center speaker. In both cases I would up the crossover settings to 80Hz. For what it's worth, I recently lowered my fronts from 80 down to 60, as my fronts are rated at 35Hz - 24kHz +/- 3dB, but then set it back up to 80Hz after coming across a compelling argument for keeping them higher. Now not everyone will agree with this way of thinking, but from the speaker specs on paper, we simply don't know how much output our speakers will actually have at these lower frequencies, and it's unlikely that my double x 8 inch woofers in my speaker towers will have anywhere near the same output at these lower frequencies as a dedicated 12 or 15 inch subwoofer would. So it would be better to leave the subwoofer to handle these lower frequencies, even if your speakers technically can reach down lower. But again, there are various schools of thought on this, and many people do set their fronts down to 60Hz. But your your speakers really don't have a low enough frequency response to do this. Be that as it may, I recommend you gather all the facts and then make a decision that works best for your situation To get you started, I highly recommend this Audioholics discussion on the topic: Let us know what you end up going with... and I hope you manage to squeeze the performance out of your system that you're looking for. Brendon
  11. @bgalakazam As a matter of interest, how long have you had these speakers? One of my PRO-180RPC in-ceiling speakers had an imperfection in the woofer from the factory (really just a minor blemish), but the Klipsch dealer in South Africa exchanged it, no questions asked. I would contact your dealer and explain to them what's going on, or contact Klipsch support directly if you don't come right with your dealer. We pay good money for these speakers, and they're well worth it, but you need to be happy with them at the end of the day.
  12. Thank you Bronzeman, and I couldn't have said it better myself regarding form and function... πŸ™‚ "I've found this guy on YouTube who is a wealth of information His DIY videos on acoustics are an college course." No way! I just found this guy a week or so ago too... I'm not sure how I found him, but his video on the "The World's Second best Speaker" most likely followed another home theater related video I was watching... or maybe you even posted it on the forum somewhere, but I immediately went down the rabbit hole watching a number of his "not so short" but very interesting videos, and subscribed to his channel. This is the video that got me to the channel: Cheers Brendon
  13. Thanks guys, I really appreciate you taking the time to look at my photos and your positive feedback. Yeah, I was a bit concerned that the slots would make the entire ceiling cloud look ugly, but I was pleasantly surprised (and relieved) that it actually enhances the overall design and makes the ceiling look more interesting... all the while of course helping to reduce ceiling reflections. I also made my own acoustic panels that include Rockwool and a Flexible Noise Barrier product for the backing to cover the windows and door etc. The 2-fold idea behind these is to reduce acoustic reflections and to reduce the amount of sound getting through the windows and door etc. I might share the construction process of these in a separate post once I've done some before and after measurements in case anyone wants to copy them. Thank you dtel. And yeah, the lights are even better than I imagined they'd be. The recessed LED strip lights are connected to controllers that have a sound to light feature and various other programs so I can have a real night club vibe for parties, and both the downlights and strip lights connect to my Wi-Fi network, so I can control them with my Google Home (voice activated) or via apps.
  14. I completed my ceiling cloud and drop ceilings about 2 weeks ago, and thought I'd share some photos of how it turned out in case anyone is interested. I'm really happy with everything, and those PRO-180RPC's sound great! This expands my theater to 7.2.2. Totally worth the effort and expense... At over 100kg, getting this monstrosity (the center speaker cloud) mounted to my abnormally high ceiling slab (3.3m) was a huge challenge, but glad it all worked out well in the end. It took a total of 5 days and 3 hours from the first bit of glue and screw until it was mounted with one coat of primer and one top coat of paint, and the down lights installed. Then I spent an additional day wiring the LED strip lights. It still needs another coat of paint, but I ran out of time before my family arrived for a week long visit... πŸ™‚ The perimeter drop ceiling was built and painted the week before... so I only needed to do the wiring and install the lights still. And in case you’re wondering, those slats aren’t for design purposes, but are actually for acoustic absorption to try and help with ceiling reflections. I’ve got a 100mm thick layer of Rockwool above those slats. It might sound like a crazy amount of effort to go to for Dolby Atmos, but it's TOTALLY worth it! Cheers Brendon
  15. Hi Felipe, You can open a support ticket here: http://support.klipschgroupinc.com/ I hope this helps. B
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