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The Klipsch Audio Community


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About inMotionGraphics

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  1. I would go with the RP-280's if you can afford them. The RP-600's are great speakers I believe, so you can't go wrong with them, but if you have the space and budget, I'd rather get the floor standers. It might be a good idea to try and audition the 280's and 600's and see which sound you like more, as the 600's and 8000's have a new vented tweeter and softer horn (wave guide) that I don't think the 280's have... and no, I don't think you'll have a bigger problem with the neighbors and the 280's vs. the 600's. It's more a question of how loud you push them, and either form factor will make a noise at extreme levels... it's more the subwoofers than you need to be concerned about and manage when it comes to your neighbors in my opinion. I live in an apartment with neighbours above, below and next to me, and manage with floorstanders and a 12 and a 15 inch subwoofer... but I do have tolerant neighbours and I don't pump it at night. As for the center speaker, this is your most important speaker when it comes to movies and TV watching, so I wouldn't skimp here... upgrade your center speaker to the best center you can realistically afford, either at the same time as you upgrade your mains or before you upgrade your mains. Let us know what you decide, and most importantly, enjoy! Brendon
  2. Unfortunately not Randy. My receiver was already out of warranty by then. But it didn't cost that much to fix... I think they only charged me 1 hour of labour.
  3. I tried the reset combination that is available online and to the consumer, but that didn't cut it. Apparently there's an even deeper reset that only Yamaha and their authorized service partners can do, which is what they did and worked on my receiver. Nothing else needed to be repaired or replaced.
  4. Well, not the normal software/firmware update that we have access to as consumers, as my device was running the latest firmware version at the time. And the Yamaha dealer specifically referred to it as a reset, not a software update... but that's all I know about the reset they performed.
  5. A similar thing happened to my Yamaha a few years ago. None of the resets listed in the manual helped, but taking it back to my dealer, they were able to perform a special (deeper) reset that normally only Yamaha themselves can do... no parts damaged or needed replacing, just a simple reset that isn't available to consumers directly. So don't write it off until you've had Denon take a look at it (or your dealer).
  6. We're living in crazy times with this pandemic and huge companies all over the world have been brought to their knees and are running on skeleton staff. So a big company like this could easily shut down it's phones at a time like this... be that as it may, in my experience, Klipsch always take at least a week to respond to support queries, so I'd give it another week or so to account for the pandemic...
  7. I did consider that, but I know myself, I'll never get around to reading a PDF, as I have so many e-Books on my computer that I've never opened... 🙂
  8. I look forward to hearing what you think about the book and Blue-Ray once you've been through it all. I almost ordered the book and disk, but it's a bit expensive to get it to South Africa and our terrible exchange rate just kills it entirely for me... 😞
  9. I do believe they have... it's apparently a new amp module entirely from what I've been told. I've only had my SPL-150 for a little over a month, but I haven't heard anyone else complaining about the new SPL's.
  10. Wow, that's hectic! I always wondered why the pros in the USA recommend running your amps off dedicated 20 amp circuits etc, until I did the simple math and realized that 15 x 120V only gives you 1800W, which heavy amps in a separates system and subwoofers can easily exceed. If I one day upgrade to a pre-pro and separates, I would run a dedicated 20A circuit for good measure, but until then, my current setup is perfectly well served by the 3600W available on the existing circuit and breaker... 🙂
  11. Your math is spot on... it's me that wasn't paying attention. The 16A sockets mentioned in the spec just refers to the type of sockets, and doesn't mean it can handle 6 x 16 amps of current... 🙂 But 3680W max load is more than enough for my setup. My Yamaha A2070 receiver's max power consumption is 1210W and then the only other high powered device on this adapter is a 12 inch Klipsch sub. My new SPL-150 is on a separate strip adapter. I think we get a lot more out of 15 amps here in South Africa due to our higher voltage supply, so amperage isn't as limiting for us as it is for you guys. At the end of the day, my entire theater and other entertainment gadgets run off one 15A breaker and I've never tripped it... touch wood... 🙂
  12. ...15A per socket perhaps (actually 16A per socket), not only 15A for the entire adapter. Here are the exact specs: Voltage: 250V Current: 6 x 16A / 6 x 5A Max Connected load: 3680W Max total combined surge current: 18 000A - 24 000A Max total combined surge energy: 500J - 700J Protection component response time: <25nS Spec Sheet: http://e-systems.co.za/System/FabSheets/1FBWP5.pdf I'm pretty sure this strip adapter can handle more than enough load from my home theater, although I don't have everything connected to just one of these. I have one of my subwoofers on a different strip and actually have a total of 3 of these strip adapters for the home theater stuff, but all are on the same circuit from the distribution board. So the more important question I would think is, can the breaker and plug circuit handle the load, and since I've never tripped the breaker, no matter how hard I drive the system, I think the answer is yes, it can, or am I missing something here?
  13. I use a local South African manufacturer for all my surge plugs, but they are quite reputable. This is the exact surge multiplug strip that I have my home theater gear plugged into, including my subs: Multiplug High Surge Protected 12 Way: https://www.ellies.co.za/product/multiplug-high-surge-protected-12-way/ Update: I should also mention that we have 240V here, so power/current etc has never been an issue for me with any of my systems.
  14. I haven't noticed any smells and the big one is covering a window that gets direct sunlight for the entire afternoon, so no, it shouldn't smell when it gets hot.
  15. Yes, they call it MLV here (Mass Loaded Vinyl), and it is specifically used for soundproofing applications. You can read more about it here: https://blog.soundaway.com/2018/02/everything-you-need-to-know-about-mass.html I stapled the MLV to the back of the frame as a backing, so yes, on the window side, with the acoustic dampening material (Rockwool) in between, and then the front covered with acoustically transparent material. I hope this helps.
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