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About inMotionGraphics

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  1. Coming along nicely... Not sure about the appliques to be honest. I prefer a cleaner, more modern look, but don't let that deter you... 🙂
  2. @maniekok3 Wow, the BEST of the BEST! I can only imagine what this must sound like... nicely done mate!
  3. Thank you all for your valuable input and assistance with this... I greatly appreciate your time and efforts. Yes, I managed to find this product: https://meniscusaudio.com/product/wool/, but would mean I need to import it myself. Which I'm happy to do if this is the best product to use for my application described in my original post. But I want to be sure this is the best product to use before I go to that length and expense. I might be able to order from Parts Express if they deliver to South Africa, but I wonder how we would know if it's suitable for my cabinets... I'm not a speaker designer and didn't follow a very scientific process with these boxes... I just tried to make the boxes as big as possible since these speakers are designed for an infinite baffle as per Klipsch support... 🙂 Yes, I've been reading a lot of this too... but I think fiberglass and Melamine foam that are suitable for this application are beyond my reach here in SA. Or I just don't know enough about these products. I don't really need anything below 100Hz as my Atmos speakers are crossed over at 80Hz anyway. We don't have this in South Africa unfortunately, but I'd be curious to hear how it works once you're done. @moray james This is very interesting... I think I would have done something similar instinctively, but it is good that you drew my attention to this and gave me some very specific guidelines to work with. I assume the vent you are referring to is the port on a vertical standing floor standing speaker? I don't have any ports or vents in my design and the box is effectively lying on its front baffle orientation wise when comparing to a floor stander (see diagram in original post), as these speakers are on my ceiling. If you could describe the stuffing layout based on my speaker box orientation so that I don't get it wrong, I would greatly appreciate this. This is a sealed box btw. Thank you all. Brendon
  4. I might be misreading the situation, but if you've added expansion gaps (with the paper spacers which I assume are temporary and will be removed), wouldn't this mean that each support brackets and the screw holding it in place is bearing the weight of its shelf? As apposed to the weight being transferred to the below supports and eventually to the base? And if this were the case, then perhaps an alternative way of catering for expansion without adding gaps would be to give the support screw on each support block a bit of vertical wiggle room (by drilling a vertically elongated hole) so that all the supports are still resting on the support below them, but can move up if expansion is required. I apologize if I've missed the mark entirely, but this what I was able to gleam from your description and photos... On a different topic, do you have any bracing/supports in place to prevent the shelves from sagging in the middle, or are your shelves strong enough that they won't sag under the given weights you intend putting on them? I suppose the good thing is most of the equipment will have wide feet that will rest close to your shelf support blocks so the weight will mostly be distributed close to the edges of the shelves.
  5. ...I learn something new every day... thanks for the tip! 🙂 The pieces are looking great so far. I look forward to seeing how it will all fit together. Brendon
  6. Thanks for your input @Panelhead. I've searched high and low and even spoken to a few wool dealers in South Africa, and none of them are entirely sure what the audiophiles are referring to when they say Long Fiber Wool. The closest I could get to that here is the Karakul Wool I linked to above, but I don't know if this product would have the right acoustic characteristics. I did find this website last night: https://meniscusaudio.com/product/wool/ so at least now I know what it looks like, but this would require international shipping to South Africa. However if the outcome of this thread is that I should be using Long Fiber Wool, then I'll ask them what it would cost to send it to me.
  7. I know this topic has been discussed on countless websites over the years, but I'm so confused by all the conflicting arguments out there, and not having access to all these products here in South Africa makes things even more difficult. I built a big ceiling cloud for my Atmos speakers (PRO-180RPC), overhead sound adsorption and lighting effects. Each speaker has its own sealed box within this cloud (see diagram below). Now I'm trying to figure out what absorption and/or filling to put inside these boxes. Each box is roughly 3.3 cubic ft. in volume. I've set the crossover settings for my Atmos speakers to 80Hz, so we're not dealing with subwoofer level frequencies here. I need a solution that is suitable for a sealed enclosure from 80Hz - 23KHz. I've read that the best stuffing would be Long Fiber Wool, however I cannot find this product in South Africa. The only remotely similar sounding product I could find is: Undyed Fibre – Karakul - http://woolcraft.co.za/shop/undyed-karakul/. And the only other product I can find here is Dacron stuffing (which I assume is normal pillow stuffing). I also have 25mm and 50mm thick mineral wool sheets left over from my acoustic treatment panels I built. I also think I recently heard/read somewhere that Klipsch used a combination of Dacron and Long Fiber Wool in a recent speaker line, but I might have gotten this confused... Please can I ask you guys to help figure the best way to dampen/fill these boxes, as I've invested a ton of time, work and money into these Atmos speakers, so I want to make sure I'm using the best material possible. Unfortunately I don't have the luxury of trying out different materials through trial and error, and I also can't measure the results etc. So it will just end up being a best effort. Thank you. Brendon
  8. You should set this dial to 120, or the maximum frequency on the sub. That way you're letting your AVR do all the bass management, which will use the various crossover settings you've chosen for each channel. At least this is how I've been doing it over the years... I also recommend double checking that you've left a bit of headroom in your crossover settings. In other words, if your main speakers are rated down to 55hz, don't assume setting your crossover at 60hz will automatically be the best setting, I'd generally go with 80hz in this case, but as always, use these guidelines as starting points, and then test, test, test... 🙂
  9. Looks like a real beast! The single 15 inch reviewed well from what I saw, so I can just imagine the damage that this bad boy can do...
  10. I really hope it doesn't come to that... even if streaming does eventually get as good as Blue-Ray, I still like to own a physical disk. Even though Oppo and Samsung dropped out of the market, I don't think physical media will die out entirely... they might just limit production and fewer retailers will carry them, but there will always be a market I reckon.
  11. I look forward to learning from your build for when it comes time for me to build my own rack... right now though, I need to build another wall cabinet for my Blue-Ray collection. My current one pictured below holds 400 Blue-Ray's but I passed that number 30 movies ago... LOL ...back in the day when there was still space in this damn thing...
  12. Looking good so far! I look forward to seeing the finish product. Do you not run into problems gluing pre-finished parts, or are you only using screws and other forms of joinery?
  13. Yeah, the RSW-15's look like a whole different beast... unfortunately they pre-date my time as a Klipsch fan and owner, so I wasn't aware of their specs or superiority. If there's one thing I've learned from participating in this thread, it's that Klipsch had killer subs, but now no longer have anything comparable anymore. What's going on Klispch? I almost missed it, but @Youthman's comparison to the Ultra 16 you shared above is the SB version, which is the sealed version. And while looking back at the original post, the OP does mention the SB version in his title, his post only refers to the Ultra in general, so this whole time I've erroneously thought we're comparing to the PB Ultra's (ported versions), which probably negates anything I've said previously, as I don't know much about the SB versions. Although I think from the various comparison videos available, we can probably safely deduce that any of the subs Klipsch currently have, aren't going to be able to match the SB Ultra's either.
  14. No, I think setting and hoping for the best is not going to get you your desired results. I don't run multiple subs yet myself, but I think most people use the miniDSP box: https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box for managing more than 2 subs. This will allow you to correct each sub independently. PS: Is Klipsch's defense, whether they gave you a sub out or you use splitters, it results in the same thing... unless I'm missing something...
  15. Hi @alcorey, the biggest problem with fitting the RP-600C speaker within a closed cavity is the rear port. It generally needs some clearance to the wall behind it function properly. And there might also be some acoustic interference by what I would imagine would become an extended or infinite front baffle. I of course haven't tried this, so I can't say how bad this might be, however, I would think you'd be better off using one of Klipsch's in-wall speakers from this purpose, as they're design to be enclosed in a wall and have an infinite baffle etc.
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