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About inMotionGraphics

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  1. Like @tromprof, I have the Q80R (2019), and I love it! Practically OLED like blacks as far as I can tell... They did lower the spec a bit on the 2020 (T models), or rather, they pushed the higher specs up to their 8K range. The major difference I think is that the Q70T has edge lighting, where we have full array backlighting, but I believe the TV still looks awesome. As long as you like the picture it produces, you can't go wrong with the Samsung's in my opinion. Here's a review of the Q70T that Andrew Robinson published a few days ago in case that helps:
  2. Just for clarity, are you referring to the RP-260f speakers? And if you are, are you saying you still preferred keeping the R-28F's as your fronts instead of upgrading them to the RP-260f speakers?
  3. Well I have the R-28F's and I think they're great... maybe it's just because I haven't had the luxury of trying the RP or RF's in my room... ignorance is bliss I guess... 🙂 I am saving up to upgrade my center R-25C though, but these RP's and the RC-64 are crazy expensive where I live... 😞 I did go with the PRO-180RPC for my in-ceiling height speakers when I upgraded to Dolby Atmos, in anticipation of an eventual all-round upgrade to the RP or RF line, but it will be a long time before I get there by the looks of things... Regarding your question about using the RP-260f as rear surrounds, I don't know that I would do that to be honest. If you already bought them, and you don't want to replace the R-28F's with them as mains, then you can try them as actual surrounds (to the side and slightly behind you), but as rear surrounds, I fear they will be largely wasted (unless you mean you are using them as surrounds, but just placed them behind you). There's usually more content in the surrounds and than in the rear surrounds as far as I can tell. And if you haven't bought them yet, then rather pass on them and invest in the best bookshelves or surround speakers you can afford, and save the rest for other things.
  4. There are many reasons why any auto room correction system can get things a bit wrong, one of which is boundary gain, which can often lead the system to think a small speaker is bigger and can dig lower than it actually is and can. If I were you, I'd start out at around 80Hz and then adjust as you see fit from there. 40 sounds a bit low for the 500m's, but if it sounds good, then that's great. For what it's worth, I usually end up with my crossover settings at around 10Hz higher than my speakers' low end rating, so that could be a safe bet if you are battling to hear the differences. Update: I just realized that my last statement above is not quite correct. I set the crossover to 10Hz above the lower end rating if the low end rating is above 80Hz, but otherwise I set it to 80Hz. In other words, I don't have any of my crossover points set below 80Hz... for better or worse... 🙂
  5. Generally we try and get the horn/tweeter as close as possible to the same horizonal plane as the mains' horns, however there's no point matching their height if the center is going to be blocked by the front row of seats, so I'd say yeah, this is good option to try. I'd recommend trying both below and above before permanently mounting it to make sure you're getting the best compromise. I don't have personal experience with these, but I honestly think you can't go wrong with them. And yes, I'd go a couple of feet above ear level. I think where you've shown them on your diagram is perfect... so yes, between front and back row and a few feet above ear level. These should be more than big enough and they shoot above the level of the R-820's. These most likely have the titanium tweeters while the 820's have the aluminum tweeter... but I'd rather go with these so that if you even upgrade your mains to the RP series, you won't have to replace these as well. I went with the PRO-180RPC IN-CEILING Speakers, which is the top of the range in-ceiling. They work great with my reference range of bed level speakers, and will be a perfect match all the way up to the RP and RF (Flagship) series. I hope this helps. Brendon
  6. Do you know what DSP mode you had the receiver set to? If it was on something other than stereo, direct or Stereo 9 (or 7) Channel, you were probably listening to a mode that collapses most of the sound to the center speaker. When a stereo signal is processed like this, it does leave your main left and right speaker sounding a little funny and feeble if you put your ear up close, while the receiver tries to direct the voices and inevitably most of the content to the center channel. My recommendation is try setting your receiver to direct (or Straight) or Stereo 2 Channel. Then you should hear all the sound coming from your RP-8000's, and I'm sure they'll sound much better, even in your garage... 🙂
  7. It's certainly a worthy upgrade in my opinion. I should also point out for those that aren't aware, that you don't need to have the overhead height speakers to enjoy the benefits of the DSU or Dolby Atmos. If you have a Dolby Atmos capable receiver (or upgrade to one), you would still be enjoying many of the benefits that Dolby Atmos and the much improved DSU bring to the table on your 9.2 or even a 5.1 or 7.1 channel system.
  8. Moving to Dolby Atmos in a 7.2.2 configuration with in-ceiling speakers for the heights was totally worth it! I mostly buy Blue-Ray disks for the good action type movies, and stream the movies that are not action or "Big Sound" focused. Any movies that don't have a Dolby Atmos sound track, I run through the Dolby Surround Upmixer (DSU) and get impressive results that way. I also watch TV shows, YouTube and listen to music through the Dolby upmixer. For music I turn center spread on though...
  9. Not to add confusion or uncertainty to your plan, but if you can't put the rear surrounds on the rear wall as per Dolby recommendations (or as close to as possible), then I would rather go with a 5.1.4 setup. Dolby Atmos speakers are meant to be in the ceiling, but not bed channel rear surrounds. I feel like you'll get a more realistic representation of the sound field if you stick to the Dolby Atmos recommendations as best as possible. I think you're misunderstanding those specs. Those are minimum ratings, or put otherwise, the receivers are capable of handling 4 ohm loads, but they'll definitely do 8 ohm loads, so you really don't have to worry about this spec at all with the speakers you are choosing. 4 ohm loads are harder on the amps than 8 ohms, and some amps/receivers might battle with 4 ohm loads, but neither receiver will have a problem driving your speakers... Either of these receivers will work just fine I'm sure (although I haven't got hands on experience with either of them). The 3700 has more features, none of which are critical in my opinion, and slightly less power. If you plan on buying an 8K TV in the future or you need HDR10+, then go with the newer 3700 model, otherwise the 4500 with slightly more power and possibly a slightly better build quality will do just fine. Well, both these receivers provide video upscaling, so you could upscale blue-ray disks or other 1080p and lower resolution sources to 4K via the receivers. Not all TV's have upscaling built in as far as I know, but I could be wrong. I do it mostly out of convenience I suppose... easier to run one HDMI cable from each of my sources to the receiver and then one HDMI cable from the receiver to the TV for the video signal from all sources, instead of running video and audio separately from each of your sources. Wouldn't you also run out of inputs on your TV if you have a number of different sources?
  10. I went with your option C for a 7.2.2 layout because I already had the 7 bed channel speakers installed when I upgraded to Dolby Atmos. However, I have heard people recommend going with your option B for a 5.1.4 because the rear surrounds aren't very active. I can't say which is better because I haven't heard the 5.1.4 setup as a comparison, but I am very happy with my 7.2.2 setup for what it's worth. Definitely don't go with option A though. You do not need or want 4 side surrounds. I agree with @wuzzzer not to focus on wattage. The only real critical issue is how many channels of processing you need and how many channels of amplification. If you are aiming for an eventual 7.1.4, then that's going to require a much more expensive receiver with either 11 channels of processing and amplification, or 11 channels of processing and an external amp for the additional two channels. If you know you're not going to need that ever, then just choose between the 5.1.4 and 7.1.2 layouts and get a 9 channel receiver... and if you can't decide, then do whichever is more convenient or cheaper in your particular room... 🙂
  11. Awesome, thanks for the update Glenn! I need to upgrade to a 4K player in the near future, so I appreciate all your feedback. Keep us posted, I look forward to hearing more... Cheers Brendon
  12. Those are rear Surrounds for sure... and normally you would add side surrounds (or just surrounds) before you add rear surrounds, and they would be anywhere from directly next to your listening position, to a few degrees behind you, but still on the side wall. Don't worry, you're totally sane bro... 😉
  13. Well done mate! You'll be happy you did it... 🙂
  14. Is the camera lens warping every time the bass hits? 🙂
  15. Looks like a nice system you're putting together here. My only comments/questions: You're building a 7.1 channel system, right, so no Dolby Atmos/DTS-X? In that case, couldn't you go bookshelf speakers on the side and rear walls instead of in-ceiling speakers for surrounds and rear surrounds? In-ceiling are perfect for height or overhead channels, but for surrounds, just above ear level would be better... or am I misunderstanding your list? If you can squeeze out a few more dollars from your budget, I would consider going SPL-150 or R-115 (15 inch) sub, as it will dig a bit lower, unless bass really isn't that important to you... 🙂
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