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  1. Both will work, but the 600M (or direct firing speakers) are better in the day and age of Dolby Atmos and other 3D or object based sound formats for bed layer surround channels...
  2. The RP-640D look interesting, but I don't have any personal experience with these speakers... I did note that those aren't all active drivers, 4 of them are passive radiators... power handling is a bit lower than the RP-600's that one would normally use for surrounds, but probably not an issue. I would however not use in-ceiling speakers for surrounds if you can help it... Either the CDT-5800-C II or the PRO-180RPC (which is what I use) for Atmos height speakers. You definitely can't go wrong with the RF7iii's and the RC 64 center for the front stage... 🙂
  3. Sorry, I'm reading my emails in reverse clearly... yes, center channel output of receiver will go to the main binding posts of one of the 8060FA's, then left to another one and right to the third one... don't connect anything to the binding posts for the Dolby Atmos modules... does this clear that up for you?
  4. Excellent choice for Front Left, Center, Right, but as I mentioned in a previous response, I wouldn't use the up-firing atmos modules (just leave them disconnected)... if I remember correctly, you said you already have these speakers, which is great, use them. But if you're going out and buying them, then just get the RP-8000F's instead... same speaker but without the up-firing Atmos modules. No issue with this if you already own the speakers, but as with the above, I would not use the up-firing Atmos modules. Also, I think the Surround (or side surround as you called it in your list) is more important than the rear surround, so consider using these as the surrounds instead if they fit in with the layout and design of your room. If they're too big for the room space wise, then sell them and replace with the RP-600M's. We call this the "Surround" channel, but yes, they usually go on the side next to or slightly behind the main listening position on the side walls. As mentioned above, consider putting the RP-280's here, or replace them with RP-600M's. Then use the RP-500M's as your "Rear Surrounds". Excellent choice. No issues with this, these are what most people use... but you can also use the PRO-180RPC for this purpose if you don't already have the 5800's. I only have personal experience with the PRO-180RPC. Check the price differences perhaps, and choose from there... and maybe also ask your Klipsch dealer which model they would recommend and why. Excellent choice, although I don't have personal experience with Marantz, but I know many that love them... 🙂 I hope this helps. Brendon
  5. My one PRO-180RPC in-ceiling speaker arrived with a similar crease, although not even as long and noticeable as yours... I sent my local dealer a photo, and without hesitation or question, our Klipsch distributor sent a replacement. There is no doubt Klipsch will replace this speaker for you, so contact your dealer.
  6. Sorry for the duplicate post... if a moderator can delete this, that would be great... couldn't see how to delete it myself... 🙂
  7. In that case, I would seriously consider doing in-ceiling speakers for Atmos. Yeah, that is good way to do it, but in that case, you could do your LCR as three exact same speakers. In other words, instead of the 504C, get another exact same speaker as your left and right main speakers so that they are all perfectly match timbre, height and performance wise... I also noticed in a reply further down that you want to do in-wall. If that's the case, you might want to look at Klipsch's THX CINEMA SERIES or their PROFESSIONAL SERIES from their custom install section. These speakers might be better suited for an infinite baffle setup than your floor standing speakers. I'm a Yamaha fan and use the RX-A3070, but you would need an additional external amplifier to power the front left and right channels in a 7.2.4 setup, as it has 11 channels of processing but only 9 are amplified. For this reason I didn't recommend it to you, as the Denon and Marantz's you are considering will give you all 11 channels powered. I don't have personal experience with Denon or Marantz receivers, so I'll leave it to others to recommend which one to go with.
  8. Funny you should bring this up, as Audioholics just mentioned this video in a recent video they posted... Gene reckons this guy took his measurements way to close to the speaker, not giving the horn and bass drivers enough distance to blend properly. Audioholics on the other hand found this speaker to be the best measuring Klipsch speaker that they've measured so far. So I think it's safe to say you can ignore the above video, and rather go with an unbiased review from someone that isn't trying to sell you an expensive upgrade to fix a problem that isn't there: https://www.audioholics.com/tower-speaker-reviews/klipsch-rp-8000f Or this...
  9. I haven't heard the CDT-5800-C II IN-CEILING myself, but it's what most people were using for Atmos over the past few years. However, when I contacted Klipsch support to ask them which in-ceiling speakers I should get that will work best with both their RP and RF ranges, they recommended the PRO-180RPC IN-CEILING's to me, so I went with those. And when I was looking up the CDT-5800-C II IN-CEILING on their website to get the exact model number before I replied to you, I couldn't find it on their website, so either I was looking in the wrong category, or these are being discontinued. It doesn't mean you can't get them anymore, but I definitely know for sure that the PRO-180RPC IN-CEILING are a much newer model. I'm love my PRO-180RPC IN-CEILING and can definitely recommend them for pairing with Klipsch's top of the range lines. But @JefDC makes a very good suggestion, before you run out and buy any new speakers, rather set up what you have already, including the upfiring Atmos modules to see what you like and don't like about your current quiver. That way you also have some reference points to compare your upgrades to. But I am very confident you will end up preferring in-ceiling speakers to bouncing Atmos modules, provided you are willing to cut holes in your ceiling... 😉 You can most definitely use the RP-500M's and you should use them rather than wasting money replacing them with a pair of 600M's. So I would use the 600M's as surrounds, and then your 500M's as rear surrounds. But there are very experienced guys that have been using Klipsch speakers far longer than I have giving you great advice here, so I suggest you consider all the different recommendations and then choose the rout that makes the most sense for your situation and budget... 🙂 The center speaker is definitely the most important speaker in a home theatre setup in my opinion, followed by the subwoofers... I do like me some good bass... 😉 The best center in the current Klipsch line up would be the RC-64 III I believe, but you only really need this one if you plan to upgrade your Main speakers to the RF-7iii line in my humble opinion... otherwise I think you'll be quite well served with the RP-504C, which would be the top of the line center for the RP range. I hope this helps. Brendon
  10. I believe these are the RP-8000F's but just with Dolby Atmos up firing modules on top. If that's the case, you can't go wrong with these bad boys, so I would keep these, but just don't connect the up firing Atmos modules. Instead, I would use in-ceiling speakers for the Dolby Atmos height channels, however if you don't want to install speakers in your ceiling, you could mount the Klipsch RP-140SA's high on the front and back walls for your Dolby Atmos height channels. You'll need a second pair of these if you want to do 7.1.4, or sell the RP-140SA's and get in-ceiling speakers: PRO-180RPC IN-CEILING or CDT-5800-C II IN-CEILING speakers. I don't know this speaker... You could use these as your surround speakers if you have the space, but since they include an up firing Dolby Atmos module again that you don't want to be using, I think it might make more sense to sell these, and get 4 x RP-600M's for your surrounds and rear surrounds... Then you need a minimum of one subwoofer, but I would suggest you try and invest in two subs. Ideally, 2 x SPL-150 or the largest subs you can afford from SVS or other highly rated sub brands. Nothing wrong with either of those receiver choices, they are both excellent from what I hear. I hope this helps. Brendon Update: I forgot to add that I've ignored your budget and costs etc because I don't live in the USA, so I'm not familiar with your prices etc. But as @wvu80 says below, if you can afford it, you could sell the 2 pairs of towers you have, and go all in with the RF7 iii series and the RC-64 III center, which would be the ultimate, but they don't come cheap, at least not where I live... 🙂 I also just realized that you don't have a center speaker in your list. So you'll need the RC-64 III if you're upgrading to the RF7 series, or the RP-504C if you're sticking with the RP series...
  11. I cannot speak specifically for HBO max, as we don't have HBO Max in South Africa, but with streaming apps in general it will depend on what Blue-Ray player you have. If your player allows you to search for and install apps, and you can find and download the HBO Max app, then it's just a matter of installing it, purchasing a subscription and logging into your account on your player. However, if your player doesn't support the HBO Max app, then you'll need an external TV Box or stick like the ones you mentioned... make sure you get one that is known to work well with HBO max.
  12. I cross my mains over at 80Hz despite the fact that they're rated down to 35Hz for what it's worth... it's not really about "wasting the potential for good mid-bass from these towers", and more about how you'll get a more desirable frequency response in your room. As @wuzzzer says, different setups in different rooms will vary, so you need to either measure to see what's going on, or experiment until you find the setup that you like best. There's a few things you should keep in mind: While your R625's might be perfectly positioned for stereo imaging etc, they might not be perfectly positioned for the low frequency ranges where the room becomes the dominant factor. Whereas your three subs are most likely better located (or can be moved) to give you the best low frequency coverage in your room. Your subs are designed to operate with authority in this frequency range, so handing over to the subs earlier could give you more authoritive bass in this range and free up some headroom on your R625's at higher volumes. Below the transition, or in large rooms the Schroeder, frequency, which in domestic rooms is at around 200-300 Hz (but varies from room to room), the room dominates the quality of sound because of resonances. Taking the above variables into consideration, you can see why it is important to measure and/or listen to see what works best in your room, and if you can't measure or decide which is better, then crossing over at 80Hz is a safe bet 90% of the time... 🙂 I hope this helps... Brendon
  13. I'm not going to lie to you, this is quite difficult to answer, because I went with a very structured Dolby Atmos layout from the get go (in-Ceiling speakers in the Dolby Atmos recommended overhead position), so I haven't experimented with different layouts or speaker types. But what I do feel is that this whole Dolby Atmos thing is pretty flexible and that there are many ways to achieve a pleasing result. So with that out the way... If you really want to upgrade your AVR right now and have already found the perfect model you want, then by all means, however, there's no reason you can't take this in baby steps, and test the waters as you go... thereby reducing your risk. Since you already have the RS-3's, I would figure out a way to temporarily mount them under the overhead shelf and test those in a 7.2.2 configuration. Just don't drop a speaker on your wife's head! 🙂 Then borrow or re-appropriate a regular direct radiating pair of bookshelf speakers to compare to the RS-3's to see whether direct radiating speakers are better. Once you've figured that out, compare the Atmos speakers hanging from your shelf overhead to the RB-5IIs set as Dolby Atmos front heights - all this is still with a 7.2.2 configuration. My gut feel is that you're going to prefer the Atmos heights mounted under the overhead shelf, and if that's the case, you either stick with the RS-3's if they worked well, or find a Klipsch bookshelf speaker that has the lowest possible box depth (to keep the front baffles as far above your head as possible). For example, the RP-600M's are awesome bookshelves, but their boxes are likely too deep to be mounted above your head below that shelf, and would likely be an eyesore. Then once you're happy with that set up, you can wait until the perfect time to upgrade your AVR and add your RB-5IIs back into the mix for a 7.2.4 configuration with over head heights and front heights for Dolby Atmos. Again, you only need to worry about this if you feel the RS-3's aren't doing you justice above your head, in which case I would look for the best direct radiating bookshelf speakers that have a relatively shallow box depth to keep the front baffles higher above your head... At the time I was deciding on my PRO-180RPC IN-CEILING speakers, Klipsch tech support assured me these speakers are designed for open baffle and don't need a box... so technically you could mount these into your shelf if you're willing to cut holes in your shelf and shelf is wide enough, but if it were me, I wouldn't want these speakers exposed to the elements above the shelf, so you could consider building a box around them on top of the shelf. But I personally think it might just be easier to go with your RS-3's or a pair of bookshelf speakers, and call it a day... Does that help your conundrum at all? 😉 I look forward to hearing the outcomes of your tests... Brendon
  14. If you are 100% sure that both the TV and receiver have ARC, and that you've connected your HDMI cable to the ARC connections on both devices, and your HDMI cable can support ARC (should, but double check the specs), then in theory it should work. But as @wuzzzer suggests, using an optical cable to carry the sound from the TV will achieve the same goal and save you some frustration.
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