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About inMotionGraphics

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  1. Between the two options you listed, I'd vote for ear level, however the ideal would be slightly above ear level for two reasons: 1) so that if you have more than one person sitting next to each other, the person/s on the outside don't get blasted from the side, and 2) so that people on the outsides don't block the sound to the main listening position with their head. You do mention a single couch, so perhaps none of these issues apply, but just something to consider.
  2. I think you're making a wise choice under the circumstances... while home gyms aren't for everyone and most get neglected after the novelty has worn off, I can attest that for me, building my home gym in January 2020 (totally unrelated to the pandemic that followed shortly afterwards), turned out to be one of the best investments I've made in recent years. I consistently hit it a minimum of twice a week, and it has done wonders for my kitesurfing and overall strength and fitness... 🙂 Now over to your questions: The RP-600M's are one of the best reviewed bookshelf speakers in their price range, so you can't go wrong with these. If it were me, I'd go with the 600's over the 500's so that you don't feel like you are missing anything later... but I'm sure the 500's are great as well. Both will pair well with the 504C (excellent center speaker btw), but again, I'd go 600 and be done with it... I can't say what the difference would be to the 6000F's, but if it were me, I'd skip the 6000's and go straight to the RP-8000F's for floorstanders. But you are totally fine starting with the 600M's for now... see below... RP-600M's if you can afford them, otherwise go with the 500's if it makes a big difference to your budget... not sure what the price difference is. Direct firing is indeed better for a Dolby Atmos setup, although there's nothing stopping you from using the 502's if you prefer. SPL-150 which is their 15 inch sub... then later if you want to invest more to get more even bass distribution, I'd get a second SPL-150, but see how you do with one for now. I've got a 7.2.2 setup which works great, but I can't help wondering what I'm missing without the additional two Atmos speakers, so if I were you, I'd go straight to the 4 atmos height speakers from the get go for a 5.1.4 setup. That way you won't find yourself cutting new holes and patching existing holes in a years' time... 🙂 Now, once you've got your 5.1.4 setup using the 600M's as front L & R and surrounds, you can see how all that works in your space. If you find you want a bit more down the line, you can move the front 600M's to rear surrounds and replace the fronts with RP-8000F's for a kick *** 7.1.4 setup, provided you invested in an 11 channel receiver or processor. You might also decide to add a second subwoofer before upgrading your front L & R... lots of choices, but at least no wastage along the way... I hope this helps. Brendon
  3. This definitely sounds like a challenging room, and room acoustics could be a huge part of why you aren't getting the results you were hoping for. The RP-504C is an excellent center speaker, so should give you excellent results and I definitely wouldn't replace it with in wall or on wall speakers... Assuming money is not an issue, and it sounds like you are willing to spend a bit more to get great sound, this would be the ideal setup I would consider (and compare the sound and prices to the Goldenear and B&W's that you're auditioning): Front L & R: RP-8000F Center: RP-504C Surround L & R: RP-600M (mounted on the side walls or on stands) Dolby Atmos Height Front: PRO-180RPC or CDT-5800-C II in Ceiling Speakers Dolby Atmos Height Rear: Either keep your 160 CDT or replace with another pair of whichever models of in ceiling speakers you chose above Subwoofer 1: SPL-150 Subwoofer 2: Your existing "12 inch sub" or replace with another SPL-150 Receiver: Your RX-V6A is unfortunately only a 7.2 channel, so you'd be limited to a 5.2.2 setup, which is fine. In that case, scrap the Dolby Atmos Front recommendation and just use your existing in-ceiling speakers for overhead heights in a 5.2.2 setup, or upgrade the receiver to to a 9 channel receiver for a 5.2.4 setup. If you end up investing in all of the above, or even switching to another high end brand, and you still aren't happy, then you're going to need to treat the room to some extent. This is a whole new can of worms that needs to be addressed... all the while keeping in mind that this is a functional space and not a dedicated theatre room, so room treatment needs to be within reason, otherwise the wife hating your floorstanders will be the least of your worries... 😉 Of course, there is another step up from the RP range, which would be the RF7iii's and RC-64 III center, but that gets really pricey, but just thought I'd mention that in case money is really not an issue... 🙂 But the RP range should be more than enough and good value for money... Lastly, the above list is just my recommendation in an ideal world and where money is no issue... you need to adjust it as needed to fit your budget and personal taste and then take it from there... and if it turns out you like the Goldenear or B&W's more than the RP-8000's, then by all means, switch brands, but then switch all the speakers to the appropriate range from the new brand. Try not to mix and match where possible. This bouncy Atmos effect speakers aren't very effective, especially if your room is too big or ceiling isn't ideal, which is why I'm recommending Floorstanders without the atmos modules and rather using in-ceiling speakers for Atmos. I hope this helps... Brendon Update: I should also mention that the RP-600M's can be substituted for the equivalent in wall speakers from the RP range if esthetics or space is an issue for the surrounds. But I wouldn't use overhead speakers for the surrounds. Those should be used for Atmos heights.
  4. I'm afraid I can't help you with pricing questions, as I don't live in the US, and am not familiar with US pricing etc... Yes, it would, but I think the issue is negligible on surround and rear surround speakers, since they are mostly used for effects and ambiance etc. You'll also be crossing them over at around 80Hz, so you aren't depending on them to produce a lot of low frequency extension etc. For what it's worth, I've got my surrounds and rear surrounds mounted on the walls using the key holes. I just used very long screws to give them a bit of a downward tilt. I'm sure mounting them on adjustable mounts would be the better way of doing it, but not worth it in my opinion at the reference range of speaker models. If I upgraded my surround channels to RP-600's though, I'd probably be looking at some kind of mounting system to ensure I get the most out of those speakers... 🙂
  5. Awesome room and system @GPSDude. I'd love to see some photos and details of the complete setup when you're finished... 🙂
  6. A) I would replace the Surrounds first... they usually get more information in my experience. Then later you can upgrade the rear surrounds. B. This would depend on your budget. If you are planning on eventually upgrading to Dolby Atmos, then I'd suggest going with one of the bookshelf speaker models in the reference range. I hope this helps. Brendon
  7. Both will work, but the 600M (or direct firing speakers) are better in the day and age of Dolby Atmos and other 3D or object based sound formats for bed layer surround channels...
  8. The RP-640D look interesting, but I don't have any personal experience with these speakers... I did note that those aren't all active drivers, 4 of them are passive radiators... power handling is a bit lower than the RP-600's that one would normally use for surrounds, but probably not an issue. I would however not use in-ceiling speakers for surrounds if you can help it... Either the CDT-5800-C II or the PRO-180RPC (which is what I use) for Atmos height speakers. You definitely can't go wrong with the RF7iii's and the RC 64 center for the front stage... 🙂
  9. Sorry, I'm reading my emails in reverse clearly... yes, center channel output of receiver will go to the main binding posts of one of the 8060FA's, then left to another one and right to the third one... don't connect anything to the binding posts for the Dolby Atmos modules... does this clear that up for you?
  10. Excellent choice for Front Left, Center, Right, but as I mentioned in a previous response, I wouldn't use the up-firing atmos modules (just leave them disconnected)... if I remember correctly, you said you already have these speakers, which is great, use them. But if you're going out and buying them, then just get the RP-8000F's instead... same speaker but without the up-firing Atmos modules. No issue with this if you already own the speakers, but as with the above, I would not use the up-firing Atmos modules. Also, I think the Surround (or side surround as you called it in your list) is more important than the rear surround, so consider using these as the surrounds instead if they fit in with the layout and design of your room. If they're too big for the room space wise, then sell them and replace with the RP-600M's. We call this the "Surround" channel, but yes, they usually go on the side next to or slightly behind the main listening position on the side walls. As mentioned above, consider putting the RP-280's here, or replace them with RP-600M's. Then use the RP-500M's as your "Rear Surrounds". Excellent choice. No issues with this, these are what most people use... but you can also use the PRO-180RPC for this purpose if you don't already have the 5800's. I only have personal experience with the PRO-180RPC. Check the price differences perhaps, and choose from there... and maybe also ask your Klipsch dealer which model they would recommend and why. Excellent choice, although I don't have personal experience with Marantz, but I know many that love them... 🙂 I hope this helps. Brendon
  11. My one PRO-180RPC in-ceiling speaker arrived with a similar crease, although not even as long and noticeable as yours... I sent my local dealer a photo, and without hesitation or question, our Klipsch distributor sent a replacement. There is no doubt Klipsch will replace this speaker for you, so contact your dealer.
  12. Sorry for the duplicate post... if a moderator can delete this, that would be great... couldn't see how to delete it myself... 🙂
  13. In that case, I would seriously consider doing in-ceiling speakers for Atmos. Yeah, that is good way to do it, but in that case, you could do your LCR as three exact same speakers. In other words, instead of the 504C, get another exact same speaker as your left and right main speakers so that they are all perfectly match timbre, height and performance wise... I also noticed in a reply further down that you want to do in-wall. If that's the case, you might want to look at Klipsch's THX CINEMA SERIES or their PROFESSIONAL SERIES from their custom install section. These speakers might be better suited for an infinite baffle setup than your floor standing speakers. I'm a Yamaha fan and use the RX-A3070, but you would need an additional external amplifier to power the front left and right channels in a 7.2.4 setup, as it has 11 channels of processing but only 9 are amplified. For this reason I didn't recommend it to you, as the Denon and Marantz's you are considering will give you all 11 channels powered. I don't have personal experience with Denon or Marantz receivers, so I'll leave it to others to recommend which one to go with.
  14. Funny you should bring this up, as Audioholics just mentioned this video in a recent video they posted... Gene reckons this guy took his measurements way to close to the speaker, not giving the horn and bass drivers enough distance to blend properly. Audioholics on the other hand found this speaker to be the best measuring Klipsch speaker that they've measured so far. So I think it's safe to say you can ignore the above video, and rather go with an unbiased review from someone that isn't trying to sell you an expensive upgrade to fix a problem that isn't there: https://www.audioholics.com/tower-speaker-reviews/klipsch-rp-8000f Or this...
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