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    Helena, Montana
  • My System
    Tube separates (Cary/ AES, McIntosh, Rogue Audio, Bottlehead, CJ, VTL, Firestone Audio, Radii Audio, Antique Sound Lab, Scott, Precision fidelity, Quicksilver, Darkvoice, Quad, Music Hall, Western Electric 91A clones, several DIY SET amps.. know I'm forgetting a few.. LOL) with Klipsch Belles, Cornwalls (2 pair), Forte 2s (2 pair), JBL 4333As, Levinson HQD (stacked Quad ESL-57s and Deccas), Altec Valencias (2 pair), Altec Madrids, Speakerlab Sevens, Heresy 1s, Purple Supergravity Neutrinos (for my desktop) and a few diy creations from the loads of JBL/Altec drivers laying around

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hatrack1971's Achievements

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  1. Jerry, I don't know if you saw those Forte 2s for sale up in Columbia Falls. I'll attest to how good they sound and I've owned every Heritage model... still own Heresys, Belles, Cornwalls. You probably wouldn't have to close your eyes anymore... LOL. The Forte 2s are lots of performance in a small footprint. They are on Kalispell Craigslist under electronics. You can't miss 'em. Oh, and I totally get parting with the K-horns. They can sort of own you. It was the second move that made me make the tough decision on my 1996 K-horns. I had them for 12 years. But being a fan of the larger Klipsch, JBL and Altecs.... I am suprisingly happy enough with the Forte 2s. But I wouldn't go any smaller in the Klipsch line being that you were used to K-horns. You just won't be happy. I tried the small speaker thing with and without subs for years thinking that since I'm getting older the sound doesn't matter as much. Just didn't do it for me. I like the dynamics of large horn speakers with high efficiency. I run SET amplifiers primarily with less than 7watts/ch. Forte 2s are a good compromise between tower (space) and Heritage (efficiency/sound). The bare minimum IMO. I haven't heard the bigger Tangent series (Super Heresy?) yet but they seem to be in a similar league from what others say. Speakerlab 7 is also a very good contender in the same size. I own a pair of those as well. Speakerlabs are a close relative to Klipsch for sure. At least a couple of them anyway.
  2. Dang, wish you were closer, I have speakers.
  3. I wouldn't use peanuts if I were you. That unit is gonna shift all over the place. Sure way to make the package awkward for the carriers and possibly damage the preamp. I'd use a combination of rigid foam and bubblewrap in each box. Keeping the heaviest part (the rear transformer side- one power and two little output transformers) of the preamp in the center of the package. It might spare yourself and the buyer a potential nightmare. Double boxing is definitely a good idea though. Just my opinion.
  4. Appreciate that carlthess40! But still, I think local is the ticket for now.
  5. Oh, I saw them. I have two pair already of Forte 2 so it's hard to justify another.. other than they never come up for sale here. Believe me.. I've been trying to justify it but I prefer the Heritage. LOL. So I keep telling myself after moving the Cornwalls back in and rotating the Forte 2s to rest position. But after about a week, I'm gonna say the Cornwalls are once again my favorite Klipsch. I will say they like a more powerful push-pull amp than SET. Bass sounds less muddy. I have two pair, both are 1s. But honestly, I just love Cornwalls and wouldn't care if I had 3 or 4 pair. Eventually I'll go back to a theater setup.
  6. KG4s are cool. I had a pair for a long while. But as stated I'm only after local and Heritage. And definitely sure on that. Mostly LaScalas/Belles/Cornwalls/K-horns. Empty cabs, K400 horns.. things that are tougher to ship. I'm good on drivers except 15" and 12" woofers but prefer picking up locally here again instead of shipping. Mostly looking to acquire another project as I'm a woodworker. And I have a bunch of solid (non-paperbacked) walnut to use up. Appreciate the reach out though carlthess40 but I'm after the ones that make shipping an impossibility. My collection could really use some LaScalas mostly. I had a couple pair stored at my brother's house a decade ago. But I traded them for JBL components and tube gear without really giving them a fair shake or any serious listening time.
  7. Looking for anyone local to me in Montana parting with Heritage Klipsch gear. I'm looking for any Heritage Klipsch parts or complete speakers. Maybe there are other Montana members here looking to scale back. I know Montanans are pretty rare on any of the forums unfortunately. Not looking for any kind of shipping, just local to me. Longshot to say the least.
  8. LOL, so true. I managed to get lucky recently but I know what you mean. I missed those free Montana k-horns. Uhg, still hurts. This forum needs constant watching.
  9. Sounds good, PM me with payment details. Thanks EDIT: and PP payment is sent. Thanks
  10. I'll take both tube amps and the db step up: *DB Systems MC step-up. This was a high end item. Nice piece. $25 *6A3 tube amp. I bought it from somebody on the forum (who built it), but can't remember who. I was never able to work out the bugs. Great for parts, fresh tubes, quality iron. $50 *Another one. This one is EL34. Built by another forum member. Sounds okay, not great. Fresh tubes, quality iron. $50
  11. Where the veneer is coming off, you might try to apply a hot iron (highest setting- no water) and see if it re-adheres. If you can, seep a little light layer of wood glue in there evenly beforehand and let it dry to the touch (usually about 45-60 minutes). The heat of the iron will reactivate it. Put a white t-shirt or piece of white cloth in between the iron and the veneer so as to not cause further scratching. Might get lucky and it will permanently stick the veneer again. Fill the corners with the highest grade epoxy filler you can find. The two part gel like stuff that dries as hard as a rock. Fill it a little over and sand or file it flush. Then touchup with black lacquer. I don't see any reason why you couldn't get them looking new again in black. Feel free to PM me about any step of the process if you have questions. You should've seen the trashed out black LaScalas I fixed. I really wish I would've taken pictures.
  12. Honestly, skip the veneer work and sell them if that's your intention. You'll thank me later. Why waste money you will likely not get back. A proper veneer job could cost up to $1K if you aren't doing it and equal or exceed the value of the speakers. Even with free labor, you will easily spend $300 or more on veneer/ materials if you get the right stuff and everything you need. For example a 4' x 8' area of solid non paper backed veneer is more expensive than grade A veneered 3/4" ply (4'x 8'). Know what you're getting into. Chorus are very nice but not iconic like the K-Horn and certainly will never sell for as much if that is your intention. But they are a good buy at $1000 plus or minus on average depending on locale. So keep that in mind. Anyway... even more to the point and I'm not picking on the OP here. I have lots of experience in this dept and you really want to use good quality non-paper backed veneer if you are gonna do it. Trust me, you don't want to use paper-backed..it looks terrible on corners and will be a fail. That stuff was meant to skin cabinet end panels on vanities and kitchen cabinets where its hidden by corner trim. The black factory Klipsch will look better than that stuff. And using non paper backed I found the ironing method with Titebond 2 the best way to go. Bigger pieces, at least in a few different tree species, are damn near impossible to lay down flat because of knots and branches in the veneer. So that rules out dowels and contact cement type glue methods with rollers. It will just split the veneer apart as you roll it and/or get voids underneath. I cut mine and bookmatch not using uneven veneer ares where knots and branches are. It is very difficult and tedious work cutting solid veneer. A new blade is a must all the time to make perfect cuts with many light passes of the blade to score it along a long metal straightedge. No problems that way but it is time consuming. If you try to cut it in one pass, your knife will just follow the grain and not the straightedge. I've been a finish carpenter for over 2 decades and will say that you need above average skill and experience to do a nice job on this. And re-veneering them isn't gonna double their value or anything like that. Cosmetic condition does have some affect on value but not really as much as you are thinking. Some folks are particular but really most aren't in my experience. Best to leave things original if selling and let the buyer decide. That's my advice. What I would do is use an epoxy filler applied flat with a putty knife on the scratches (leaving no excess anywhere around the scratch- clean it off if need be) and touch up (mist over) with a quality black lacquer. Like one step above a flat black with just a hint of sheen.That seems the most obvious route. Or re-shoot the whole cabinet with black lacquer after repairs. Though I've never found that necessary unless there is a lot of paint damage. Black is a very forgiving finish for repairs. Easy to hide blemishes and much less expensive too. I can't remember what I used on my black K-horns but it was just plain old black lacquer rattle can from a hardware store. Nothing special but it dried fast, was sandable quickly and extremely durable. It builds up nicely too. It made flawless and undetectable repairs. Even close up it was difficult to pick out repairs. Make sure it is lacquer though. Even if you have to go to a paint store to be 100% positive. It really makes a big difference on durability. Sometimes hardware folks are clueless about that stuff.
  13. If this is a K-77-M, I'll take it.
  14. I look at completed sold listings for the last 60 days, not asking prices on eBay. I still think it's an OK deal. I might get back to you.
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