cdsang

I have been thinking of upgradeing something. I listen to music alot so I was thinking a nice amp would be a good idea. To let you know what I am compareing what to what here, I am looking at the Aragon 2005,Adcom GFA-7700 and the Outlaw 755. I realize the Aragon is much more expensive, but was wondering if it was better and if it is, how much better. Just for now, I am gathering information to see what I would like to buy next as a projecter is also on my wish list. CD

Well, I'll take my best shoot at this one. Earthquake is kinda like sunfire, they have alot of low end but not alot of upper bass. Considering this is a 10, it may make a difference. Considering HSU is online only(I think), you may get a better bang for the buck. I have never heard any of these, but at least I took a crack at it. I have read from a reliable sourse that the 12 and 15 Earthquakes are like big Subfire subs. And I have heard good bang for the buck for HSU's lower lines from many people. I hope this helps. CD

Well, I watching G4TV/TechTV as they have come together now. They had a videogame set up with a seat and a 3 TV set up. What shocked me is they were useing Klipsch RSX speakers. 5 actually.I think they used RSX-4s and the Center. For the sub they used an RSW-15. I think they used a PC for game side and a Denon to power up the speakers. I was just shocked. But then again, Klipsch is a good company, so why not. I just find it odd they bought such an expesne sub for a such a small speaker set. O well. Just thought I would let you know. CD

Well, its good none of you said Aragon because I just found out they don't sell that anymore. I do have a test CD and a Radio Shack SPL meter. I think I got before I even got RF-7s. A nice 32 sound like a good ideaa. I dont want to deal to much with room accustics because its not my house. A Projector sounds like a good idea as I have wanted one ever sense I saw one running. Big picture is the first thing that comes to mind. Picture quailty? Yes it came to mind, but the size just made me ignore it. I care more about audio then video. But thank you for your advice. I will try to look at those things and see if I can get my hands on any of it if I find I really like it. CD

The upgrade bug returns. Well, I am looking at 3 things I am thinking of getting but not sure what I should get. I am very interested in the Aragon 2005. The 3005 is very iffy. I want a new amp because my reciver keeps dieing out on me. A nice projector because my 14 inch is just to small. Doesn't need to be top of the line, but HDTV compatible at least with a limit of $2000. I have my eye on the Infocus X2. I was also looking at the SVS PB-2+. That is the model they suggested when they e-mailed me back. I wanted a bit more low end. Louder isn't so much a must at 30hz and up, its 30hz and down. Other suggestons of course are also welcome. I normally play video games and listen to music. Useally CD's(one has 20hz in it) but I wish they had more DVD-Audios or SACDs I want. I am not a fan of either as long as players can play both. My room size is 12 by 11 or around that area. I have a Aragon dealer that gives me at least 10% off and useally expensive stuff, I can get 20% off. Thank you advance CD

Well, its somewhat hard to tell to me but I got my RF-7s for 1350 and I know thats a good deal. For RB-5IIs for 300 to me is a good price. I think on the RC-7 I can get for 500, so I think your in the right range. The RC-7 is much better the RC-3 and won't have a problem keeping up with your mains. Alot of people like monopoles for surrounds so RB-5s would be a nice match. CD

DrWho, what program did you use? I find it easier to use graphs them but dunno what to use. I belive Mircosoft word has bar graphs but I forget if it does line graphs. Dean, what do you think your crossover upgrade would do? Just to let you all know, as you can tell I have 3 RF-7s up front but the distance between them is only a few feet apart. If less then 3 feet away from the wall is bad, then I would be better off running just one speaker. As far as room abosortion material, I would have to build boards to put the absortion matirial on.(ok i was never a good speller but I am good in math) I don't care to much for room looks as I care more about sound quality. Ever sense I got my first Klipsch speakers, sound quality started to be a big thing to me. Both parents were in the miltary, so I moved alot. So every time I moved, I would change my room to be set for a stearo as hometheater wasn't in my buget. Later on, got a reciver and added some old bookshelves as surrounds and ran my sats as mains, with,(don't laught, I was on a budget and I like klipsch) Klipsch KSW-100. Considering 99% of my system was music(now 80 music 20 movies), this set up was fine until I wanted to turn it up. Later got the RF-3II set, then the RSW-15, then my (still don't laugh, my dream speakers)Klipsch RF-7s. So as you can tell, I care more about quility. I have spent nearly every penny on audio. If it wasnt a new speaker it was either a CD or DVD or something for car audio. Perhapes the only non audio stuff was food. I even bought my cousin who is joulous of my system but wishing I could help her, got a Sony personal CD player with that G-Protection. She loves it but I wish I could help her more. Opps rabbeled. Ok, so now you know the basic audio story in my life. Anyway, I can't use my walls, and someone said that EQs sound unatural. DIY is always an option. My mom likes power tools so I have good deal tools to work with. By the way, thank you for your responces. CD

For those of you who keep missing this, I didn't say 15000 hz, I said 16000. I don't have a test for 15000, but 12,000 still seems pretty high but I could still hear it. My test is at 16256 which I thought nothing was happening. My dad couldn't hear it. But I know something is going on because my SPL meter was showing a number. Others on the forum have also said they can't hear much past 16000. But if you still can, more power to you because you can hear more. But anyway, I ended my test at 16256 because I can't hear it and thought it was a good place to stop. Don't be mad please because I was going from personal experice. I wasn't trying to offend anyone. CD

Well, I used (reading off the CD cover here,) Stryke's Basszone Test CD VOl 1. The web site doesn't seem to show this anymore, but if you have ever seen it, it would explain the strange frequency points. I haven't exactly measured the distance but just from looking at it, about 2 and half feet from the side walls. Please note that my room is only about 10-12 feet wide so space is an issue. My speakers are really close to begin with. But I should be moveing in a few years and get room that is much bigger. Other wise the RF-7s would of been out of the question. If ebay isn't my option would you suggest the cheaper eq that SVS sales. I think its $119. I think 150 would be my max. I belive bestbuy sells an eq for 100 but it doesn't have as many frequecnies to change. I think 10 for each channel(2). So which EQ do you recommend if I can't find one on ebay I don't like or can't find. CD

ok, the full 30-16000 hz and corrected useing my correction sheet 30 hz,69 dB 403 hz,70 36 hz,70 507 hz,75.5 40 hz,75.5 640 hz,78 45 hz,75 806 hz,70 50 hz,74.5 1000 hz,70 56 hz,76.5 1280 hz,73 63 hz,63.5 1612 hz,77.5 71 hz,61.5 2029 hz,78.5 80 hz,56.5 2560 hz,73.5 89 hz,64.5 3226 hz,77.5 100 hz,74 4064 hz,75 112 hz,74 5120 hz,74 126 hz,70.5 6450 hz,63 142 hz,66.5 8124 hz,68 160 hz,65.5 10240 hz,71 201 hz,81.5 12902 hz,55.5 254 hz,72.5 16256 hz,below 50 320 hz,74.5 Some correstions may be off (only by 1 dB most in most cases)but if the chart was consistant I corrected it as was show with the frequacy between the 2 above and below it. Anyway, is that better? So what do you think? EDIT: I forgot to metion my sub is crossover at around 90 hz to help with the 100 hz dip I had which was at was about 10 dB higher. I use to use the 120 from my reciver. From test I have done before in that potion, it seems to have improved. Also the chart looked better when I put it together. O well. CD

Sorry meuge, you asked the quesiton while I was awswering the first question. Well, I use to have my UPS pluged up to my recive, RSW 15,PS2 and TV and I have only seen it have problems ones. Thats was when it was new and I was really blasting the music on a heavy bass CD. The CD goes down to 20 hz so its a pretty rough on power. But after and still blasting it with the same CD again, it didn't have problems. This is while it was pluged in and power was on. Now if you want my complaints, it makes this beeping noise about every 5 secs when the power goes off and starts useing the battery. Althought its a nice warning to let you know, shut off your stuff. I have only unpluged it once as a try out and has my reciver PS2 and TV on at low volumes and handled it ok. I did noticed the TV's pictured didn't look as good but the sound from where I was, didn't degrade. Right now, its just pluged up to my PS2, Gamecube and TV so I can save my games if the power goes out. Hours of playing and not saving and have the power go off can be very frustration. The main reason I bought it. I also noticed it had Clean Power on the box, so I figured hey, its an AC line contioner to. I was told a UPS could degrade audio because audio equipment is picker about power and PCs are not but I haven't noticed any difference. I did switch my reciver and DVD player to my Monster Cable power bar because it has a higher surge protection to it. But anyway, if you have any question, I will try to answer them. CD

Well I actually wanted to see the reason my system sounded bright. 200 hz is about were bass starts so it was pointless to go lower for what I wanted. 8000 hz is about where most music ends. You would actually be suprised that even thou most will say the human ear can hear up to 20 kHz, most people at my age(22) or above can't hear much over 16 khz. I belive I used C weighted and Fast. I suppose I should go on slow but conidering that each freqecy test last 30 secs on the CD and I useally wait until it stays the same number awhile so it may not make much of a difference. I haven't changed anything sense the test, so perhaps I could go back and test the rest. I will test 201 down to 100 and 8000 to 16000 as I don't hear much over 16000 anyway. I do have a correction chart but most of the of numbers are useally just 2 dB off most where I tested which with what I am getting makes it sound(no pun inteded)like small toast(thats a new saying). I'll be back with more numbers. CD

Well, I got out my test disk and RS SPL meter and this is what I got. 201 hz,82dB 254 hz,72dB 320 hz,75dB 403 hz,70dB 507 hz,76dB 640 hz,78dB 806 hz,70dB 1000 hz,70dB 1280 hz,73dB 1612,hz,78dB, starts to act up 2029 hz,80dB 2560 hz,75dB 3226 hz,79dB 4065 hz,77dB 5120 hz,76dB 6450 hz,65dB 81247 hz,70dB and fineally back to normal Well, I noticed on this one CD that my speakers were really bright. I just thought it was the CD, so I turned the treble all the way down, and tested it. I don't mind a +- 3 dB in my curve, but some dips and bumbs in there to big. I think the 201 has to do with my woofers being cut off at 90 hz as I don't think Klipsch expected them to be crossover down low. This would also explain why I wanted to turn my sub up but blending became a problem. It would of been a big dip down low, and way up high, but because of the middle, it wouldn't sound right. My main idea is to get a flat 70 dB at this volume level. I suppose I could buy an eq. Does useing the Tape to Monitor on my reciver work? I heard it does but have never seen it done. I know I need one for my sub. That looks alot worse then the list I just showed. Its like 60 dB one area and 91 in another. Thats 30-100 hz by the way. Lets see what you think. Anyway, thank you in advance. CD

Wow, 206 bucks for a powerd sub with that kinda finish? Looks good to me. I may add one little thing to it but nothing big. The only think extra I would of done with that budget is to gloss it up. I do realize it would make it more prone to finger prints but when cleaned up looks nice. I will admit you do good work. It would be cool to have you next door to help me with progects like that. Althought with a bigger budget, I would of done a PR box. Not knocking your box at all, as everything I would add just drives up the price which is something you didn't want to do. I hope it sounds at least as good at it looks. CD

Ok, I was doing my useing alot of bass deals like somtimes I do. Well, I found something a bit interesting. Well, I use to think I was maxing out the RSW-15's active woofer on this one disk that played down to about 20hz. I would hear that clack noise, so i quickly turn it down. Well, to my surprise, I found out I was maxing out the passive radiator while the active was BARLY MOVEING. To my surprise, I felt the active driver and it was as it wasn't even on while the PR is acting all crazy. Made it seem like the PR was the active driver. So the RSW-15s reason for not digging as deep as well is because the PR doesn't have as xmax much as it should. I think Klipsch should redesign the PR system. Either have 2 PRs and keep it tuned to where it is or 1 with more then twice as much Xmax as the oringal. The I think when properly done the RSW-15 could keep up with SVS. I think most people don't realize this because the active woofer useally isn't seen. I kid you not. Try doing a 20 hz test tone at about 95 dB at about 2 feet away and you will notice the PR is really moveing, and then even feel the active(yes it should be safe to do so) as it it barly moveing. I want to see what others think about this. CD

Well, me and a friend of mine burned a CD and it wouldn't work for some reason. So we didn't care much for it but when we looked at it, the CD seems only to be 2 stickers on plastic. The plastic is to help keep its shape. You have the label side and bottom part which has the info on it containing 1s and 0s.So in reality, the space needed for the info is only the depth of a sticker. At least when looked at the disk thats what I noticed. I guess bit off topic, we played with the CD like a frizbee. Kinda fun but sucks it didn't work. Darn windows huh. This was back when windows 98 was conisdered new. CD I just noticed my sign off sig is also about what I was talking about. How ironic and no pun intended.

I like the look of it. My problem would be assuming I had the money, "ok, money in hand, now what color to get it in?" I honestly like it in either color. That white its nice but the black blends into the dark and most equipment. I also like black. Honestly I useally don't like white, but with this amp, it wears white really well. I bet it sounds as good as it looks. Congrats on the your purchase. CD

THX for computers and THX for home theater are not really comparable. THX for compuer speakers don't require as high of SPL and so on because your closer to the computer. I know that the THX speakers are designed to naturally cut off at 80Hz(in most cases) by speaker and cabinet design. Also, sounds cannot refect off of the floor or ceiling. If you look at the Klipsch THX Ultra 2 speakers, notice the small woofers. Thats to help it cut off at 80hz so it blends with the sub better. Also, sence Klipsch uses horns to begin with, those nonrefective sound problem is fixed naturally. And sense they all have to be the same, makeing 3 towers wouldn't seem logical. The Refernce Series speakers go to low and to use 3 of the same up front in most cases doesn't seem logical. Ok, so I happen to have 3 RF-7s like mOOn does. Yes it sounds awsome, but the amount of space it takes in hight is a bit annoying because my 14 inch TV is right above it but not on it. But most people just wouldn't do that. Perhaps 3 RB-75s, but mOOn seems to think the RC-7 is better. I also belive the speakers must handle 100 watts. That puts the RSX speakers out. Also THX cost alot of money. So to cut cost, it just simply was't tested. The RF-7s will handle THX audio without a problem. And also, Creative Labs now has control over THX, so it doesn't mean as much as it use to. But 7 or so years ago, THX had real meaning. CD

How much for the crossovers? I may be interested in this. From mOOn's review it sounds good. I have the same basic problems mOOn metion that the new crossovers may fix. Althought, soundstage was never an issue for me. Anyway, I live in Delaware and I have 3 RF-7s. If I like those enough I may want to do my RF-3IIs. O and one more thing. Would it be possible for you to make a crossover for a DIY project? I am not sure about 2 way or 3 way but I think at least 12 octive slope. It isn't so much of not being able to make them myself, its getting the parts. I can't get stuff at Partsexpress.com as I tried getting stuff and they say my card doesn't exist but it worked just fine a stryke.com. CD

I have an even smaller room. 10 by 11 -------------------------- RF-7 RF-7 RF-7 RSW-15 RF-3II----bed---------RF-3II RS-3II----bed---------RS-3II ---------------------------- My only problem I see with this room is my RSW-15 is hard to get right, but go fig, squares are bad for home theater. CD

Well, I looked in a magizine and and the whole 6.1 set up is 4000 MRSP. This includes the front 3, the back 3, one sub,one amp for the sub, and universal DVD player. I talked to my dealer and he said the mains may cost about $600 each but he didn't have the numbers on him at the time. CD

Your DVD player has DACs and so does your reciver. If you use anolog connects from your dvd player, the dvd player must change the sourse from digtial to anolog useing your DVDs DACs. You could bypass this by usieng a digital connection such as optical cable or coaxial. When this is done, the reciver or pre-amp uses its own DACs. So basicly you should use the connection which has the best dacks. For Dolby Digital to be used with anolog, you must use the 5.1 anolog outputs and into a reciver that can accpet this. Useally makeing you use 6 anolog connections. DVD players with these outputs can useally play DVD-A and SACD which the anolog connections are reqired in most cases. At least I belive this is how its done. I hope this helps. CD

Those look more like RB-5s, but if you look at the picture, the horn doesn't even look right. There is no phase plug and its rectaglar instead of square at the mouth. The only thing I can see that may make it one is the woofer and cabinet. Also, notice it doesn't have a name of the tester. We all know that every Reference and Synergy speaker has a testers signature on the back. The sticker was probly made in a computer program. I think this is a false Klipsch speaker if you ask me. Maybe a DIY project.Looks like it was made in Japan. Now wheres that thread about moving jobs to another country and Klipsch being made in China. I for one would rather they were made in USA. CD

I was just looking around the speakers trying to answer someones question when I saw the new Ultra 2 speakers. Makes me wonder if there out. Where I am talking about is click on products, then click on Reference and scroll down. CD

Actually yes, it is possible. The output you would use for the SWS would work. Honestly thou, the RSW-15 is alot more then you'll ever need with those speakers if you want to set it up properly. The most I could see is cleaner sound and lower bass. If you want more bass you may want to try SVS. The PB-2+ I think will about equal if not higher at high bass frequecys and beat the RSW-15 at low ones and at a cheaper price. 1200+ shipping. So maybe 1350 or less. I would goto svsubwoofers.com and contact Tom V. The only way I can see this whole thing being well worth it is if you upgrade your sats to something bigger. Some people have been happy with Klipsch RSX-4 and 5 with there Ultra sub and have had no problems with it. I dunno how much that ultra sub can handle as far as imdependace goes. Anyway, hope this helps. CD