Rudy81

Chris, I have been off the forum the last day or so and missed this post. Yes, I too found the purple wire to be positive, with one exception where the wire was actually soldered to the wrong point in the diaphragm. Back to the setback you used in your setup with the Khorn bass bin. Did you experiment with the driver up front, near the edge of the bin? I too would like to get a good crossover point as low as possible and have yet to take time to measure various setback positions.

Hmmm. I too would like clarification on what Chris meant. I had not noticed his statement as contradictory to mine. Chris is way more knowledgeable than I am, so his experience should carry way more weight. I'm just going by my little experiments and what I have experienced first hand. Also, note that I have not focused on getting response down to 300hz....although that would be great. Since this has been a long process, I was happy to proceed with a crossing point of 800hz. As I get more used to the AMT sound, I will then play around with setting it back relative to the surface it sits on. I have noticed that it sounds more open and airy when up front.

Optimizing the length of the wings is the real unknown right now. I'm not sure if longer wings would produce any worthwhile results. The is also the issue of curved wings with some sort of proven curve. Other than that, there isn't much else we can do other than keep stacking drivers. No real point in that I don't think.

Totally understand. The best thing we can do is keep experimenting and trying out different designs. We are close to a good solution, just need to fine tune the results. The only way to know what a particular design does is to measure it. That was how I ended up with just the sides.

Spoke to Ricky? Very nice guy. He usually answers the phone. The side angle is 90 degrees from center, within a couple of degrees. That is the angle of my wings. The top and bottom, IIRC, are 120 degrees. When I tested my 'full' horn prototype, I just make the top and bottom also 90, which is why I likely got some anomalies in the response until I removed the top and bottom. Even if the top and bottom would be helpful, the whole thing become just too tall for me to use.

The way I built mine, it is 17" wide by 13" tall. You can make the bay as narrow as you wish and just let the waveguides float in front of the drivers by attaching them to the baffle. I think once you have a set of drivers on hand it will be very simple to figure what you need.

Thanks Chris. At 1/4 wavelength, no point in flipping the bins. Lots of work for no or minimal gain.

Dang it! Now I will have to look at flipping my bins. I wonder what kind of paint job I did on the bottoms? Thanks @dkalsi, you just created more work for me! Current center to center measurement is 25", closer to the 500hz wavelength.

If there is interest, I can bring two Stacked AMTs with waveguides....IF someone brings bass bins I can cross at 800hz. No way I can bring my bass bins.

When complete, my waveguide is one 'solid' piece. The drivers are attached to the base and the top with the threaded rods that go through the drivers, top to bottom. I could flip my entire unit upside down and the whole thing would stay together. Your idea is easier than you think, you just need to support the back of the base from behind the baffle. Only half the driver and the waveguides would be in front of the baffle.

Rich, I suspect a gap between drivers would reduce the lower frequency loading we are trying to achieve. I also am looking at a similar setup as the Pure Audio Project, but a DIY version IF I decide to try and go OB again. For now, I continue to work on my bass bins....which I only built last year. Could you fashion a DIY panel for the Pure Audio Project speaker as follows? Make a taller panel with a hole large enough to fit the stacked drivers AND the wings. The whole thing can be easily supported with some 45 degree metal brackets in the back. Basically, copy what I made and slide it into the hole, attached and supported from behind. If you are using an active crossover, which is the only reasonable way to do this, you can change the timing and EQ using the crossover. I don't see why that wouldn't work.

Best thing to do is to try this yourself. When you get the drivers, place them at the edge of whatever surface you are using to support the drivers. Listen for a while, paying particular attention to the soundstage size and breadth. After you get a good feel for that sound, simply slide the driver back from the edge 8" or 10" and listen again. In my case, I felt that the soundstage was not as large and sounded a bit more constrained. Could just be me. We all seem to hear different things when evaluating. Frankly, I would prefer to keep the drivers back from an aesthetic perspective. But, I'm after the sound and not necessarily how pretty it looks. I would be hesitant to vertically move the drivers too far above the bass cabinet in a suspended type of arrangement. My guess would be that the more you move the drivers away from the bass producer, the more you lose coherence at the crossover area. But heck, I'm just playing around with all this, and you guys should too. I'm no expert on any of this. With the compact size of the drivers, moving them around is too easy not to try variations and options. I am looking forward to what you guys 'hear' when you get the drivers. BTW, there is about a 2 or 3 hour break in period. I never believed the whole break-in thing until I was able to see it in a Group Delay measurement with these drivers. Doesn't take long. Yesterday I broke in a new set for my center channel. Just played music through them for a couple of hours in the morning. When I ran the GD test, they were just like the others I have.

Chis, If you will need help with your gear, I will be traveling in my F-150 crew cab. Plenty of room and covered bed. Let me know what you need me to haul.

No sir! When they are wired incorrectly, they don't put out much bass and sound terrible. Yours are wired correctly. But, if you are bored, you can open them up and see. 😎

Michael, you're cracking me up!

Well, I'm committed now. Getting ready to pack up the center Oris 250 and the Oris 150 are spoken for. Onward at this point. Been listening all morning. So far still love the sound, so this is just the beginning of this project. These drivers, to my ears, are just awesome. Frankly, they are showing the limitations of my bass bins. I'm going to have to take another shot at OB low end. Yikes, more projects. In the mean time, I will start working in my spare time on a prototype with rear wings and any improvements I can make to the current build. Although, as I built the waveguide setup, it is really easy to put together and take apart if you need. Very solid, no vibrations at high volume.....so far seems like it was worth the effort. I am looking forward to the results of anyone testing a longer waveguide. I'm not opposed to making it larger. The only problem with longer wings is that there is definitely a better, more open sound when the drivers don't have any solid surface immediately under the waveguides.

No clue if it will help or not. It was part of my plan to make the transition from the AMT to the waveguide as smooth as possible since we are dealing with high frequencies and short wavelengths. I figured it can't hurt and @Chris A recommended I fill those spaces in.

Black putty installed on sides. If anyone wants to try the same material, I obtained 'Black Plastilina Modeling Clay' from Hobby Lobby. Easy to mold and supposedly never hardens.

Like I said somewhere on the forum. I wish I had several spare rooms to turn into listening rooms, each with a different system. I wish you lived close. I could have used your ears to evaluate along with me. My wife thinks I'm nuts too.

Sure, go ahead and add to my insecurity! No big deal really. If I change my mind I'll just order another set. Although it is a long road from ordering to a finished product. Time will tell if this was a mistake...or not. Looking back, I have had the Oris the longest of any other speaker I have owned or built.

Looks like the Oris 150 and 250 are spoken for. Will advise if anything changes on the Oris.

Oh, you want the easy way! Nice! 😄

Just read 'Sensei's' thread: And, this one.

I know...crazy! Literally 10 or so minutes to get those results. Having learned Chris' technique for timing, its ridiculously easy. I used to spend hours tweaking phase and working on guessing the correct timing delay. The REW EQ function makes EQ'ing easy as well. In the coming days I will continue working on tweaking to obtain the best results I can in the current configuration.

Thank you for the explanation. I will have to add to my list of things to try out a set of 'mirror' back wings. I think it will be very easy to add permanently if it works.