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Mark Z

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Everything posted by Mark Z

  1. I've found them to be so much better than the stock tweets in my C2's. Clear, livly, not mushy at all. I really like them. They are slightly more efficient than the C2's, so slightly louder, but I still feel they are balanced with the overall sound. Some people instal an Lpad to tone them down, give them a couple of weeks of listening and decide for yourself. I love mine just as they are.
  2. Good tip, Dave, that would save the potential touch up once they are installed.
  3. I finally got around to painting my MHAL's, I think they came out nice! I took the clamping plates off to do so, and as Dave has said, pay attention to the orientation as they are cut as one piece and to get the alignment right, so they have to go back together as they came apart. I marked left and right and up/down with a sharpie on each. I cleaned the bare aluminum with thinner, and then wiped them down with a tack cloth. I used a high build automotive primer, and tapped off the mating surfaces of the lense and the clamp to assure a good match up when they were reassembled. One coat of primer, and then 2 coats of Rustoleum Professional flat black. They came out nearly perfect, and match the Chorus 2's really, really well. I did touch up the lense/clamp seam with a tiny automotive chip touch-up brush, and some of the paint sprayed into the cap. There was just the slightest "silver" showing in a couple of spots once assembled. I love the tweeters, and now the matching cosmetics. Thanks for a great product, Dave, and all the comments in this thread around painting vs anodizing. Painting them was definitely easy and came out great.
  4. Sweetness on my Chorus2's also.... Did you paint them??
  5. I ran my Cornwall 1's, Heresy 1's, and now Chorus 2's off a Luxman C-02/M-02 with very good results. I found the Luxman stuff to be pretty punchy and very smooth. I recently switched the Luxman set to another room and replaced them with McIntosh MA9000 integrated (I wanted the 8 band equalization with my old ears but still seem to gravitate back to flat on many recordings), which also sounds great with the Chrous2's.
  6. Thanks! Funny you say that, I had been researching how to anodize them myself! Although the bare aluminum is growing on me.
  7. I have found a couple of recordings a bit bright, and others a bit dull. Recordings be damned. I made some small adjustments on my integrated amp @ 2.5k and 10K range to attenuate and boost. Fortunately, like you after some experimentation and a short time I really enjoy them.
  8. I'm not sure of the specs, but according to posts (some by you!) the K-79 is less sensitive than the K-77 by 3db. If the K-77 is 105 db, that makes the K79 102 db, and I think I read the LMAHL v2 de10 is 107 db, so not sure how it lines up, but it seems close enough to not need attenuation on the Chrous2 set up anyway. I can tell you this, they sing on the Chorus2's compared to the stock K-79's with the stock or Ti diaphragms. The Ti's were a definite improvement over the stockers. I'm not sure is the De10 needs break in, I' haven't noticed much difference in about 12 hours of listening at moderate volumes.
  9. I just did the Large MAHL V2's (DE10's) in my Chorus 2's and they are nothing short of magnificent. I read many of the reviews and kind of doubted they were THAT good, but boy was I wrong. I had been running the Ti diaphragms in my speakers, and they were definitely and improvement over the stock diaphragms, albeit sometimes harsh depending on the treble input and recording quality. These new tweeters are just great. The musical details and increased tone/stage just jump out at you. The vocals went from somewhat nasal to bright clear and sharp; I guess an easy way for me to think about it is this - they are clean, vocals come alive, snare drums are as if they're right in front of you and "snappy", symbols are distinct without any "shmush". The are very articulate but still balanced. The Chorus2's just sing now. Installing them wasn't bad, although the directions suggest pulling the midhorn it's was easier for me to remove the grill, lay the speaker down and remove the passive. Gave me a ton of room, and was able to mount them laying down instead of blindly while upright. They came assembled but the screws hand tight to remove the clamp plate/speaker from the lense. Then you remove the current K79-k tweeter, and mount the lense with the 4 factory screws. I then laid the speaker down, removed the passive, and mounted the clamp plate/driver from the back. Easy. The kit came with blue loctite i used sparingly on the 4 allen screws and tightened appropriately. Lastly, they came with 6" speaker wire extensions that fit the factory spades and clipped back onto the DE10's They are just the best upgrade I think I've ever heard! Awesome, if you are thinking about these, pull the trigger, you won't regret it. You can somewhat see them behind the grill cloth when there's enough direct light, they are of course bright machined aluminum, they'd be cool if they came in anodized black, but I suppose that would also add to the cost. They are super well made, milled to perfection, and were packed very well with everything you need to install them, including detailed instructions and helpful commentary. These are outstanding in every way so far, highly recommended!
  10. I'm backing off, not sure I'll get the bass I'm looking for over the Chrous2's, I may regret it, they are beautiful. You're up BadChile! Thx for the pics and the chat Dom.
  11. Thanks @BadChile! I too would like to see some pics!
  12. The buttering, I wish! After 30 years she's got my number!
  13. Always does, that's precisely how I ended up with my current amp! Do you think my wife will buy "they're smaller" than my Chorus 2's? They ARE shorter.....
  14. I've had that same problem, I end up sending them to my iphone where it asks me the size to save it and then loading them from there. Kind of a pain. Where are you located, Dom?
  15. Mark Z

    Recaps

    I did new caps on my 1994 Chorus2's and 1985 Heresy's. I used Dayton Caps from Crites. Night and day difference on the Heresy's in high's and clarity. Chorus 2's were a bit brighter, but not nearly as pronounced as the Heresy's. The Heresy's were also much easier as they have the Type 2 hand wired crossover set vs the cramped printed circuit board on the Chorus 2's. LaScala's might have the hand wired set up too.
  16. Yeah no doubt. I had done some surrounds before, and this was a little more involved but just as easy. Here's a pic of the "weight cone" (under the dust cap) intact before I did final trimming and worked it into a perfect circle. The second photo is the backside that attaches to the spider, you can see the remnants of the old spider I hadn't cleaned off yet (sandpaper worked well). It's all hidden under the dust cap, but I figured the more balanced it was and symmetrical, the better the weight distribution remained neutral. I weighed the "extra" cone material in the same square inches from old cone material, it weighted less than 1.25 grams, so that plus the weight of the epoxy makes it slightly heavier than original, but I can't believe that will make any difference sonically based on ~ 45 grams of weigh total.
  17. I just re-coned one of my KD16's with the SS kit, and it is perfect and looks completely stock. I left a review on the SS site as to the directions (as supplied were for a speaker with a voice coil not a passive), but once you figure it out, it works great. Unlike the originals, the SS cones have an "open" end to accommodate the voice coil, and the originals are "closed" with a formed paper peg the size of the hole in the new cone to attached the spider. You have to cut the weight/wax cone end off the old cone and when you assemble the new cone it gets inserted into the new cone and epoxied to the new cone and spider. You need to leave about 1" of old cone above the wax so theres sufficient surface to glue. The whole assembly (old cone end with wax and weights) was 45.27 grams. The whole process removing the old cones/spider, cleaning the basket up, trimming, fitting, and reassembling was easy, and took me about 90 minutes going slow and double checking fit and centering etc. Sounds great and looks perfect. Note that the pic in the cabinet caught funny light, the cone is not bluish, its darker like the first photo. Anybody doing this feel free to contact me for help.
  18. Hi all, yes still in CT, although HI Fi Stereo house is long gone. I do still have a bunch of equipment from them - we were able to buy trade ins on the cheap! I did the passive cone replacement (from Simply Speakers) this weekend, pretty easy job and looks exactly as the original did. Sounds as it should also. I weighed the weights in there as I had read some people were asking what they were, for anybody who finds this post, with the cone end, and wax/weights intact, they weighed 45.27 grams. I figured the cone and wax to weigh about a gram or so, safe to say the weights were ~ 44 grams.
  19. Hi all! Long time Klipsch fan, first time poster....lol. I caught the "bug" working at a local CT based HI FI store in High school in the 80's. From then on, my Realistic System just didn't cut it....We carried Klipsch, B&O, Polk, Luxman, Carver, Nakamichi, Yamaha etc., and a few others. Of course running the K-horns off a Carver amp playing the then "new" CD's and rattling pizza trays off the walls of the business next door was a weekly event. I learned some great Greek swears when they all came running into the store to find us in the "big room" with it cranked up. I've owned quite a few Klipsch speakers, including some of the newer stuff for surround, and oldies like Corwall 1's in birch (which I veneered in oak), and currently own a pair of 1985 Heresy's in oiled oak, and a newly acquired set of Chorus 2's my buddy owned and had stored in abasement for the last 12/13 years. I'm come a long way on the resto of those, including Ti tweeters, a lot of cabinet work, rebuilding and veneering the stands, and rebuilding the crossovers. They sound great. I have to re-cone one of the drones, so I ordered kits to do both so they match. One of them had significant holes and some surround tearing. I glued it up for now and they seem good to go. I just finished the cabinets with Tung oil, they look great. Currently driving them with Luxman M-02/C-02 and they sound fantastic.
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